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Old 03-27-2012, 08:37 PM   #1
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Recommend me a 1" body lift kit

Hey fellas just looking for a decent 1" body lift kit. Mainly to have a little more aggressive look with the larger tires I have on the jeep. I would rather spend alittle bit more and get quality than just the cheapest out there... but I'm all about value for the price...

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Old 03-27-2012, 08:38 PM   #2
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JKS 1.25" bl is the best reviewed iv seen.

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Old 03-27-2012, 08:52 PM   #3
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x2. I have the JKS 1.25" BL and 1" MML. Install was easy, MML was a pain in the ass.
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:22 PM   #4
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My Savvy BL does the job real nice. Reuses the factory snubbers for the grill.
Aluminuny!!
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Another Guy In A Jeep
JKS 1.25" bl is the best reviewed iv seen.
X2 im ordering mine on thursday after I get paid along with a 1" mml. (Rokmen offroad)
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:29 PM   #6
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Who makes the BL that replaces the factory rubber bushings?
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:35 PM   #7
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Jks all the way that's what I have it's actually 1.25"
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:06 PM   #8
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JKS 1.25 all the way.
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2003 TJ.Zone 3" lift, JKS 1.25 body lift and mml,33x12.50x15 Duratracs, Ace rails, KC lights.

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Old 03-27-2012, 10:46 PM   #9
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I went with the Currie BL because they are alloy and you get to keep the benefits of the factory mounts.
But it probably doesn't matter too much which one you end up with - they all do the same thing.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:58 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Another Guy In A Jeep
JKS 1.25" bl is the best reviewed iv seen.
X2 i have been very happy with mine.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:25 PM   #11
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What's the logic on getting a 1" MM. with a 1.25 body lift? Is it to minimize the chances of death wobble? I figured that you could just do the body lift.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaska TJ
What's the logic on getting a 1" MM. with a 1.25 body lift? Is it to minimize the chances of death wobble? I figured that you could just do the body lift.
Not 100% sure myself but it does help with driveline angle.
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Old 03-28-2012, 12:29 AM   #13
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What's the logic on getting a 1" MM. with a 1.25 body lift? Is it to minimize the chances of death wobble? I figured that you could just do the body lift.
It's so you don't have to move the fan shroud. And when you lift it can help so you dont get vibes from the pinion angle changing. Death wobble is a steering/frontend issue.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:40 AM   #14
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What's the logic on getting a 1" MM. with a 1.25 body lift? Is it to minimize the chances of death wobble? I figured that you could just do the body lift.
Body lift enables you to do a MML. Doing a MML enables you to remove a TX drop if you have one installed. I finished my install last night and removed my 1" TC drop - Jeep is smooth as can be.

BTW I used a Zone 1.25" BL and 1" MML. The Zone BL comes with the radiator relocation brackets, transfer case linkage bracket as well as a steering bearing relocation bracket. Only thing I am not too crazy about regarding the Zone BL is the square tubing it uses to space the rubbers underneath the grill - works perfectly well but looks a little goofy.
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Old 03-28-2012, 02:46 AM   #15
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Body lift enables you to do a MML. Doing a MML enables you to remove a TX drop if you have one installed. I finished my install last night and removed my 1" TC drop - Jeep is smooth as can be.
I just don't understand this. Can you suggest a thread or link where I can learn more about this? I have a vibration I'm trying to track down and I want the "smooth as can be" thing
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Old 03-28-2012, 04:47 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by alice the cat View Post
I just don't understand this. Can you suggest a thread or link where I can learn more about this? I have a vibration I'm trying to track down and I want the "smooth as can be" thing

A TC drop or MML will only sort out vibration if the vibration is as result of a lift. If you do not have a lift then the reason for your vibration is something else - possibly bad u-joint.


Do you have a lift of any kind?
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:46 AM   #17
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A TC drop or MML will only sort out vibration if the vibration is as result of a lift. If you do not have a lift then the reason for your vibration is something else - possibly bad u-joint.


Do you have a lift of any kind?
I have a 3.5 in procomp lift but thats all I know. I have only had it 3 weeks. It only vibrates when I step on it... coasting 50mph there is nothing. Thanks so much.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:05 AM   #18
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So if I understand correctly, with no lift other than a 1"body lift, there is interference with the radiator and/or fan? I don't remember reading that before. So would there be interference when a 2"budget boost its installed? Or am I talking apples and oranges
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:10 AM   #19
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So if I understand correctly, with no lift other than a 1"body lift, there is interference with the radiator and/or fan? I don't remember reading that before. So would there be interference when a 2"budget boost its installed? Or am I talking apples and oranges
Apples and oranges. The budget boost lifts the body and frame. A body lift only lifts the body. Since the radiator bolts to the body, it will be raised an inch.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:26 AM   #20
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Who makes the BL that replaces the factory rubber bushings?
Daystar makes a full replacement bushing with 1" of lift and I have no complaints with mine.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:38 AM   #21
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Who makes the BL that replaces the factory rubber bushings?
Daystar. That's what I run.
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Old 03-28-2012, 08:49 AM   #22
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Apples and oranges. The budget boost lifts the body and frame. A body lift only lifts the body. Since the radiator bolts to the body, it will be raised an inch.
What he said.

Just to be clear. A BL lifts the body and the suspension together. A BL lifts the body only thereby seperating the body from the frame and that is why you need to relocate the radiator. The Zone BL includes the relocating brackets for the radiator, transfer case and steering bearing.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:09 AM   #23
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Not trying to hijack this thread, but can you use a budget boost with a suspension lift? Or is it best to use a body lift?
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:19 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by andrewsudderth
Not trying to hijack this thread, but can you use a budget boost with a suspension lift? Or is it best to use a body lift?
I wouldn't suggest doing a bb on top of a sl. The bl would be a far better solution for hight gain. That and in my opinion any spring lift over 4" shouldn't happen with short arms. And 4" is more then what most here actually need anyway.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:22 AM   #25
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Ok thanks for the quick response! I have a 3.25 rc suspension lift so it sounds like the JKS 1.25 body lift is the best option. But do I need a MML also?
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:24 AM   #26
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Not trying to hijack this thread, but can you use a budget boost with a suspension lift? Or is it best to use a body lift?
You can. But there is a point at about 3-3.5" of total suspension where you have to start worrying about the following...
Driveline angles
Pinion angle
Sye
Replacement upper control arms
So depending on where you are in your lift you may want to make those considerations.
Other problems you will have to look at
Shock length
Bumpstop length
Coil bind
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolf

What he said.

Just to be clear. A BL lifts the body and the suspension together. A BL lifts the body only thereby seperating the body from the frame and that is why you need to relocate the radiator. The Zone BL includes the relocating brackets for the radiator, transfer case and steering bearing.
A little confusing here, I think auto spell may have got him.
A body lift lifts the body from the frame.
A suspension lift lifts the frame from the axles.
Both ways allow larger tires because either way you go the fenders are lifted from the tires.
The max you want to go on a body lift is 1.25" due to possible safety, complications with the lift, and definite tackiness.
Suspension lifts can be done safely at almost any height, money is the deciding factor here.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:39 AM   #28
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I'm going to be ordering the Zone 1.25BL and MML here soon. From what others have said the difference between body lifts are mostly negligible. PM Allen from AOR (vendor section). He quoted me a really good price. I would recommend doing the MML at the same time. There pros outweigh the cons in my mind. Oil pan gets raised, no need to relocate fan and helps to cure drive line issues.

I saw a tj last night with a 3" BL
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:40 AM   #29
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Not trying to hijack this thread, but can you use a budget boost with a suspension lift? Or is it best to use a body lift?
A budget boost is a form of a suspension lift.....if it lifts the frame away from the axles, you can call it a suspension lift. Don't let the jargon and terms confuse simple logic....hell, I don't even like the term 'lift.' All BB spacers do is lower the upper spring mount down so now your X" spring will sit the frame up taller by the amount of the spacers. You can do whatever you want as long as you think about what you're doing. What most don't think about is the fact that you're gaining shock travel but aren't gaining usable travel since you're still left with the stiff, short stock springs. Additionally, you're not gaining any up travel since the coils will reach the binding point before you can use the additional travel. A little common sense goes a long way--apply it and you can answer your own questions.
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:49 AM   #30
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So if I understand correctly, with no lift other than a 1"body lift, there is interference with the radiator and/or fan? I don't remember reading that before. So would there be interference when a 2"budget boost its installed? Or am I talking apples and oranges
The fan will hit the shroud since your moving the body up to which the radiator is attached and not the engine to which the fan is attached. That's why the Mml is suggested since it moves the engine up the same distance as the body so no trimming needed.

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