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Old 10-05-2013, 05:48 PM   #1
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Removing Body Lift.. Have a few questions

So the jeep has what I think is a 2" maybe 3" body lift on it. I hate the gaps it causes at the grill and bumper so I want to take it off. It appears it was done correctly.. From what I understand you have to drop the radiator down and it has some kinda kit on it that has lowered it down. idk about the gas neck or wiring and this is the reason I want to remove it other than what I said above. Any advice on removing it or things I need to be careful to look out for?

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Old 10-05-2013, 10:19 PM   #2
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Anyone??? I'd like to get this thing off the jeep

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Old 10-05-2013, 10:43 PM   #3
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Things that will need to be addressed when removing your body lift:

Grill supports
Mounting hardware bolts
TC linkage
Radiator shroud
Stock body isolator pucks. Some BL kits use them, some replace them.
Shorter gas filler hose.

Some people have found it easier to swap down to a 1" body lift kit. It will have everything needed to make it work. Barely noticeable compared to the taller ones.
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:09 PM   #4
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Yea I may just do that... I just hate those gaps
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Old 10-05-2013, 11:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTX-Ross View Post
Yea I may just do that... I just hate those gaps
A 1" body lift is beneficial and you can barely tell the difference. After installing my 1" body lift I kept asking my self if it really was lifted at all haha.
As mentioned above just make sure to check your fuel lines since it will probably have to be shortened otherwise it will pinch.
Make sure to unscrew the radiator shroud and you'll probably have to drill new holes for it or do a 1" MML along with it.
Check out your steering linkage because there may be a good chance it's hitting if you have a 3" body lift. It may feel a little weird with a 1" body lift unless you buy an extended steering bracket.
If you do decide to go with a 1" body lift I recommend the daystar 1" body lift. It completely replaces all the body mount components so you won't have to worry about finding stock ones.
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Old 10-06-2013, 05:40 AM   #6
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Send a message via Yahoo to ChaddG
I'll take that old body lift kit off your hands. pm me
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:32 AM   #7
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Chad once I get time to get it all swapped out I'll give you a shout.. Now what fuel lines are you talking about being pinched? The gas neck filler? Also, with it having a 3" body lift, won't it already have a steering shaft relocation bracket on it and will I have to get a different one?
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:37 AM   #8
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Just went and looked at the steering shaft and it's at a pretty good angle. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary (like any kind of bracket) shouldn't I be ok with going down to a 1"
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Old 10-10-2013, 08:43 AM   #9
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Buy a rokmen 1" body lift kit. Looks badass and 100 dollars. Machined aluminum. And includes everything but gas tank hose to swap down to a 1".. And you can use a 1" mml too
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:01 AM   #10
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.

Here's a photo of it installed
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Old 10-10-2013, 09:42 AM   #11
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Great info, I'm looking to do exactly the same thing.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:24 AM   #12
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If you still have your factory body isolaters with the bl that's currently on there, you could go with any of the 1" bl's mentioned. If yours were replaced when the current lift went on, then you may want to use the Daystar 1" bl because it replaces the factory isolaters anyway.
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Old 10-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #13
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This is a very basic question, but what should I look for to tell if a MML had been installed? In going from a 3" lift to a 1" lift would I need to remove it if there is one, or does that depend on the size?
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:15 PM   #14
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Briggs, from what I understand the only purpose the mml has is to bring the oil-pan up further away from the ground and to also bring the fan up so the shroud doesn't need to be relocated after the body lift. If you're going from a 3" down to a 1" like me you will need to move the fan shroud up a little to compensate for the body going down. I think if there is a MML installed it will look similar to a body lift. Will have some sort of tall bushing between the motor mount and frame
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Dog View Post
If you still have your factory body isolaters with the bl that's currently on there, you could go with any of the 1" bl's mentioned. If yours were replaced when the current lift went on, then you may want to use the Daystar 1" bl because it replaces the factory isolaters anyway.
I'm about 99% sure I still have the factory body isolators, I'll post pics when I get home
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:20 PM   #16
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One tip when going from 3 to 1" is this---


I took the longer bolts, hand threaded them with the 1" body pucks. This way when you set it down it's all aligned correctly (the new bolts won't be long enough until it's set down. So after you drop it, just put the short bolts in.

Also your going to have to put new hoses for your gas tank.. Or cut the old ones down
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Old 10-10-2013, 12:47 PM   #17
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Doing this one side at a time.. Is it gonna hurt the body at all to have flexing from 3" on one side to 1" on the other??? I would imagine it sees more flex than that just on hard trails. Just a thought
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:39 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CTX-Ross View Post
Doing this one side at a time.. Is it gonna hurt the body at all to have flexing from 3" on one side to 1" on the other??? I would imagine it sees more flex than that just on hard trails. Just a thought
Nope the instructions say do it one side at a time

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