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Old 12-09-2011, 06:29 PM   #1
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removing lower control arm bolts?

anyone know how to remove them? ive hit the bolt with a hammer several times and didnt budge. i also tried jacking the jeep up a little and hitting it and still nothing. any ideas? does the jeep have to be lifted up off that side completely to release tension on the bolt?

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Old 12-09-2011, 08:18 PM   #2
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I used the upper half of my floor jack handle as a breaker bar to loosen mine.

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Old 12-09-2011, 08:20 PM   #3
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gotta take the weight off of the lower control arms (jack it up) or you might get a little surprise when you do get the bolt out
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:26 PM   #4
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gotta take the weight off of the lower control arms (jack it up) or you might get a little surprise when you do get the bolt out

well put lol
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:33 PM   #5
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well put lol
i try
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Old 12-09-2011, 10:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudslinger5000 View Post
anyone know how to remove them? ive hit the bolt with a hammer several times and didnt budge. i also tried jacking the jeep up a little and hitting it and still nothing. any ideas? does the jeep have to be lifted up off that side completely to release tension on the bolt?
front or rear? make sure you set the e-brake.

in front you need to support the axle from the spring perch on the drivers side, and the axle tube on the other side. otherwise, the offset springs try to rotate the axle housing with the weight of the jeep. it doesn't end well, and bolt holes are very hard to line up again.

in the rear you can just simply unbolt them one at a time. you don't really want to make the lowers longer than stock, so as long as the vehicle doesn't move you should be fine. if it does, roll the front tire by hand and block it.
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Old 12-10-2011, 12:39 AM   #7
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Use a tow stap that's how I took mine off!
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:03 AM   #8
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It's really easy. Do them one arm at a time. No jackstands needed, and you don't have to lift the Jeep, or the axle at all.

1. Chose one arm, upper or lower, and remove the nuts off of the control arm bolts.

2. Once the nuts are off of the control arm mounting bolts, grab the tire and roll it forwards or backwards a bit to take tension off of the bolts themselves and the bolts will slide right out.

3. Take the new arm, lay it on top of the old arm, and adjust the new arm untill the bolt holes line up with the old arm, then bolt one side of the new arm loosely into the frame side control arm bracket, slide the other side of the control arm into the axle side control arm bracket, and then push or pull the tire forwards or backwards a few inches until everything lines up and you can slide the bolt into place.


It's super easy, and as long as you only do one control arm at a time you shouldn't have any problems. All 4 arms on my front axle took about an hour total to install on my Jeep, but I did have the advantage of air tools.
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:20 AM   #9
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I tried most all of these methods on my rusty 97 and had no luck. Eventually I used a sawzall and cut them out. Went through several blades. In the process I damaged the mounting brackets on the axle which was OK because I wanted to weld on new HD units any ways. After I cut the bolts out I rigged what was left of them into a vice and with a mini sledge I still could not budge them.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:42 AM   #10
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thanks for the tips. we finally got them out by slightly jacking it up and moving the wheel forward. the lower bolt on the drivers side arm was the worst because the metal sleeve inside the old bushing had come apart from the rubber and wouldnt let the bolt out but some pliers fixed that. these new control arms i got from clayton are WAY beefier than the stock ones lol
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:04 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mudslinger5000 View Post
thanks for the tips. we finally got them out by slightly jacking it up and moving the wheel forward. the lower bolt on the drivers side arm was the worst because the metal sleeve inside the old bushing had come apart from the rubber and wouldnt let the bolt out but some pliers fixed that. these new control arms i got from clayton are WAY beefier than the stock ones lol
I'm glad you were able to get them out! You'll love the new JJ's! Did you do all 4 lowers?
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:48 PM   #12
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I am in the middle of lifting the front end and when i tried to remove the driver side lower control arm front bolt it was pinned against the differential. I had to wiggle the control arm from the other side and rock the axle, while trying to yank the bolt out. Eventually i got it out but have no idea how i am going to put it back in. Anyone run into this problem. '97 sahara.
-homer
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by homerj View Post
I am in the middle of lifting the front end and when i tried to remove the driver side lower control arm front bolt it was pinned against the differential. I had to wiggle the control arm from the other side and rock the axle, while trying to yank the bolt out. Eventually i got it out but have no idea how i am going to put it back in. Anyone run into this problem. '97 sahara.
-homer
When you put the new bolt in put it in from the other side maybe? I didn't have any problems replacing my control arms, but I don't remember which side I put the bolts in from.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:00 PM   #14
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Thanks for the tip. That's what i was thinking but im worried because on the '97 they have you mark these cam washers and tell you to put them back in the same position (i havent figured out why) and im a worried it might screw something up. However when i complete the install, if i cant get it in i will have to put it in backwards.
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Old 12-11-2011, 04:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by homerj View Post
Thanks for the tip. That's what i was thinking but im worried because on the '97 they have you mark these cam washers and tell you to put them back in the same position (i havent figured out why) and im a worried it might screw something up. However when i complete the install, if i cant get it in i will have to put it in backwards.
Those cam bolts are used to adjust/set the front axle's caster angle. That's a non-critical angle so try to get it close to where it was before but it won't be a big deal if it's off a tad. HOWEVER, if you are installing adjustable length control arms, those cam bolt positions will be irrelevant if the new control arm lengths aren't identical to the factory control arm lengths. Worst case if your caster angle isn't correct after all this is that your steering may not have good return-to-center after completing a turn or won't feel as stable on the highway. Factory caster angle is 7 degrees but the bigger the tire, the less caster angle you want. 5.5-6 is good for 33" tires, 4.5-5 degrees is good for 35" tires.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:35 PM   #16
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I'm glad you were able to get them out! You'll love the new JJ's! Did you do all 4 lowers?
yea, my next plan is to get all four uppers and maybe an adjustable track bar later on.
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Old 11-17-2012, 12:01 PM   #17
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I just found a solution to remove rusty control arm bolts. The first one I replaced earlier this year I cut with a saws-all, as that was preferred method. If anyone has ever cut one, you know they are a PAIN and you usually go through at least a couple blades. Last night I was trying to figure it out and was looking on the internet for a better way to get the bolt free, after I fell asleep in my chair in front of my laptop... then it hit me... a u-joint press. rented one today and it took me about 30 minutes, but it came out, mainly because my throw on my 1/2" ratchet was only a 1/4 turn AND it was really stuck.

What you will need:
• Penetrating oil (do this the night before.. I also was told brake fluid works good as well)
• U-Joint/Ball Joint Press (Rent at nearly any auto-parts store)
• 1/2" Ratchet and socket to fit the press
• Handle off a Hi-Lift Jack (very helpful for other stubborn bolts too)
• Smaller 2" bolt (this is for after you press the bolt to the mount, you will still need to press it through all the way)

1. Make sure you use penetrating oil, although my bolt was dry for the majority of the length, soak the bolt the night before.

2. I pressed against the nut till it was flush, then removed the nut. Resist the urge to take a 3# hammer to the bolt as it will not budge. Continue with the press.

3. Once flush with the mount, use the smaller bolt to press it through the bushing.

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