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Old 07-12-2010, 11:01 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Read post #13 above, you don't need anything but a BFH applied to the SIDE of where the tapered stud passes through. You don't need heat, you don't need a pickle fork to get the steering stabilizer or any other part of the steering system's tapered fittings apart. I do this all the time and I don't even own a pickle fork and neither have I ever needed heat.

Trust me, the procedure in #13 works. Many use it, I can have the entire steering system apart using that method before anyone can get a single tapered fitting apart using a pickle fork, even with heat.

Just saying....he said the BFH trick wasnt gettin him anywhere, minor opinionated suggestion on the heat....
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:14 AM   #32
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I did try #13 with a good many whacks from the side with a sledge. It didn't help. I wish it had. That was before I used the compressor.

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Old 07-12-2010, 11:17 AM   #33
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It will, it just takes you getting one joint apart with that method so you get the knack. Then you will become a believer. I didn't think it worked either until a friend showed me years ago while I was installing my first Currie steering kit.
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Old 07-12-2010, 11:38 AM   #34
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Jerry is 100% correct as usual. Just replaced tie rod and ends over the weekend and used a BFH, 3-4 HARD whacks to the side where the std goes through and out it came.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #35
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hey, I know this thread is old, but I wanted to comment on it so if anyone else looks it up and comes across it they will know Jerry is absolutely right. Like the other guy, I couldn't get the stabilizer to pop out...despite my best efforts. So I looked it up on here....saw Jerry's method and what do you know.... it worked like a charm. Just be advised it took me a lot more then half a dozen whacks lol,
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Old 03-03-2016, 09:09 AM   #36
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Thanks for the infor on the BFH method Jerry! I was using your method before I took to the forums, but I just wasn't hitting it hard enough. Something about the confidence in my blows did it for me
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Old 04-15-2016, 06:32 PM   #37
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This is literally exactly what mine looks like right now, minus the pickle fork.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:22 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by KCrisp View Post
I am embarrassed to say I am still working on this. (Jeep is at a vacation home.) I tried beating on the threaded end with a hammer. Would not budge. I tried a manual pickle fork, but it would not move it no matter how hard I hit it with a 5 lb sledge. I think at 1" wide the pickle fork is a little too wide and misses the 19mm shelf on the part. I tried the pitman arm puller, pushing up on the threaded end from down below. It crushed the end of the bolt down to the hole for the cotter pin, but would not budge it. I used a breaker bar on the puller for more leverage and eventually the jaw snapped off the pitman arm puller.

So next? A pneumatic pickle fork? Heating up the metal around the shaft with a torch? Cut the thread off at top and bottom and try the pitman arm puller again. Obviously now the thread won't take the nut any longer so I can't decide to forget about it. The shock damper is obviously totally shot and has no resistance (113K miles) and I have the new part so I do want to finish it up.
Mine was the same way. I heated the pitman arm and smacked it and it fell right out.

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