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Old 07-09-2011, 10:41 AM
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Replaced Rear Wheel Stud

I had a rear wheel stud snap when backing out a lug nut. This gave me the opportunity to learn how to replace one. I never had before, though I imagined what it could take. Would I have to remove the axle? How about the diff cover to remove a clip or something? How about the rear brakes?

I have a 2001 Jeep Wrangler (TJ) with optional Dana 44 (3.73s).

After doing some research I came up with a few things. Some say the axle needs to go. I heard with a Dana 44 no clip to remove. Some say rear brakes need to go.

Turns out I didn't need to remove the axle, clips or brakes. This is going to be easy.

I am not an expert. This thread is just documentation of what I did.

Chalked the front wheels. Jacked up rear and put on jack stands. I then removed the wheel and drum.

Sprayed some penetrate on the stud shielding the surrounding areas from over spray.

Hammered it out with a 2 pound hammer. A dead blow hammer may have worked well, but I didn't have one. I placed a piece of 2x4 against the end of the axle to guide the hammer to the stud (not pictured, I only have 2 hands!).

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Here's a picture of the old and new stud.

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Turned the axle until the hole was lined up with an area where the breaks had enough room to slide the stud in from the back.

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Put on several washers and an open end lug nut. I used the flat side against the washers. Tightened to specified torque. As it tightened it drew the stud into the axle flange.

I then removed the nut and washers. Measured the length of the stud against the others. It was the same length.

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Put drum and wheel back on. Took vehicle off jack stands. Unchalked front wheels. I used anti-seize on the lug nuts and tightened 20% less than specified torque.

Stop thinking and all your problems go away.
- Lao Tzu (from Tao Te Ching) ~500BCE

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Old 07-09-2011, 01:02 PM   #2
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We had to cut a lug off mine recently due to using an impact to torque the lugs down a while back...same fun experience. Dana 44 is as mentioned above, you just remove the wheel, brake drum, and can access the studs from there. No need to remove the axle shaft. Dana 35 may be different...not sure on that.

Anywho...when we put my stud on, the hole had expanded just enough that the stud wanted to spin when we started to torque it down...which if it spun once we put a lug nut on it, we'd again have to cut the lug out. What we ended up doing was putting red loc-tite on it and then using pliers or a pry bar or something to hold it while we pulled the stud into the wheel. Then I left it alone for a while and just ran with 4 lugnuts. The loc-tite held and it's now solid again...and running all 5 lugs.

"We don't build great brakes because we think you don't know how to drive, we build them for the guy on the road in front of you that doesn't." - Black Magic Brakes
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Old 09-27-2011, 09:04 PM   #3
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Any idea how to do this with the new shafts I just received today? Should I just wait until I put the shafts in the axle?
2000 Sahara, 3.5" Rubicon Express Lift, 1" spring spacer & 1" Body Lift, 33" or 35" BFG Mud tires, Front & Rear ARB, Rancho 9000 shocks, UCF Ultra High Belly Up, Savvy gas tank skid.

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Old 09-28-2011, 12:11 PM
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I suppose you could do it either way. If you put the studs in first they could give you something to hold on to when inserting the shafts.
Stop thinking and all your problems go away.
- Lao Tzu (from Tao Te Ching) ~500BCE

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Old 10-16-2013, 07:29 PM   #5
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WOW thanks ipleadda2nd... I think you just saved my life. I just noticed a wheel lug broken on my rear wheel. I called the dealer and they quoted me $309.75 to replace all five lugs. The price of lugs through them was $17.95. I have not done any work on my Jeep yet but I a retired Navy Grease Monkey. So I guess its time to dig in and have fun! Thanks for the pics and the steps to get this done!
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