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Old 06-19-2011, 04:15 PM   #1
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Replacement of Front Axle Universal Joints at Wheels

My 2003 TJ with Dana 30/186 MM front axle has very, very loose u-joints at the wheel location, both sides.
Removal of the axle to replace the u-joints looks fairly easy.
- jack up one side at a time to prevent fluid spillage out the axle
- disconnect caliper and let hang (suspended out of the way)
- remove rotor
- remove axle nut
- unbolt hub from knuckle and disconnect (15 mm, 12 point socket required?)
- take out the axle
- replace the u-joint
- reinstall

Questions:
- is above procedure okay? any short cuts?
- what glitches might I run into?
- should the black plastic seals (for dirt) at the end of the axle tube be replaced? In my case, one is cracked, so I will likely replace both anyway as the other one is likely worn.
- any secrets for cleaning out the axle tube before installation? I imagine there's lots of dirt and dust in there. I will need to ensure that the axle doesn't get dirt on the end as it is being reinserted at the differential.

That's about my understanding so far. Any help will be appreciated. I have already sprayed the u-joint area with Fluid Film yesterday to help lubricate and penetrate the rust.
I am planning on using Mopar or SKF parts.

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Old 06-19-2011, 04:21 PM   #2
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For your axle shaft u-joints, upgrade the present factory installed Spicer 5-297x u-joints to the Spicer 5-760x which is a stronger and much more durable u-joint. The 5-760x is a direct replacement.

Here's a good writeup on how to do the job...

D-30 Axle Shaft Removal
U-Joint Replacement - 1

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Old 06-19-2011, 05:04 PM   #3
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What about for a d44 same u joints?
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:36 PM   #4
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If you're referring to the Rubicon's front Dana 44 axle, yes it uses the same u-joint as the TJ's D30 does.
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:48 PM   #5
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Kaaaay! Gonna replace all my u joints along with 100k overhaul. In about 400 miles.
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:21 PM   #6
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no fluid should leak out of your axle when doing a front shaft but one side at a time is the way to go.

When putting the shaft back in be very careful and try to keep the shaft in the center of the tube so you dont damage the seal. while you have the shafts out its a good time to also replace your ball joints on the knuckles and change your diff fluid.

the biggest issue is getting the hub nut off the shaft. When i did the joint on my XJ i was able to keep the tire on the ground and use a 3 foot breaker bar to break the nut loose. heat may be your friend with it they dont like to come off Northern rigs with out a fight.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:14 PM   #7
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Well not sure if you have done this yet today or not but the only problem I saw was letting the brake calipers hang. Don't let them hang by the brake hose. You need to support them or hang them up with some wire or zip ties.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:57 PM   #8
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i wouldnt remove the axle nut and attempt to remove the hub from the axle shaft...its a total waste of time and frustration and it 100% needs to be done...i did this just the other day and i decided not to remove the hub..and it made the job incredibly easy...dont kill yourself or waste your time..not necessary
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:58 PM   #9
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put the calipers up on an upsidedown bucket or some blocks of wood or something so that the brake line is still loose and no where close to being taut
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:59 PM   #10
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remember...DO NOT remove the axle nut and DO NOT remove the hub. save yourself
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
For your axle shaft u-joints, upgrade the present factory installed Spicer 5-297x u-joints to the Spicer 5-760x which is a stronger and much more durable u-joint. The 5-760x is a direct replacement.

Here's a good writeup on how to do the job...

D-30 Axle Shaft Removal
U-Joint Replacement - 1
Thanks Jerry, that's very helpful information for me to use.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:16 PM   #12
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Well not sure if you have done this yet today or not but the only problem I saw was letting the brake calipers hang. Don't let them hang by the brake hose. You need to support them or hang them up with some wire or zip ties.
Good point, I always support the caliper to take the weight off the hose using bungee cord, baling wire or a block.
Most repair shops just let them hang, without any ill effects, it seems.
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Old 06-19-2011, 09:21 PM   #13
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remember...DO NOT remove the axle nut and DO NOT remove the hub. save yourself
Thanks for the short cut. I assume that's with both wheels off the ground so the joint can be manipulated better. What tools do you use for removal and replacement of the u-joint itself, just a hammer and a socket?
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:28 AM   #14
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Harbor freight u-joint press is worth its weight in gold in this situation. Not necessary but it makes it much easier.
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Old 06-20-2011, 05:03 AM   #15
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Harbor freight u-joint press is worth its weight in gold in this situation. Not necessary but it makes it much easier.
AGREED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's a link to it.

Ball Joint Press Kit
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:28 AM   #16
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AGREED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Here's a link to it.

Ball Joint Press Kit
Thanks for the link. No Harbour Freight stores locally here. Princes Auto has one listed thouigh for $59.99 at http://www.princessauto.com/workshop...over-installer
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Old 06-20-2011, 07:40 AM   #17
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Are you going to replace the plastic end caps on yours? one of mine broke off a while back, and I never replaced it. They didnt seem to be doing their job anyways because both were loose on the shaft against the diff.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:35 PM   #18
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Are you going to replace the plastic end caps on yours? one of mine broke off a while back, and I never replaced it. They didnt seem to be doing their job anyways because both were loose on the shaft against the diff.
That's a good question, especially if I don't pull the axle that has the damaged one.

Would be handy if they came in two pieces that fastened together.

Guess I may have to improvise, maybe add J-B Weld to the mix. Have to give that one more thought. Would be nice to have something effective in helping keep the dirt out
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:43 PM   #19
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Yes, thats what I was thinking. Mine broke off and I attempted to super glue it back on. but decided against it cause it still wasnt tight. JB weld is good stuff too.
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Old 06-21-2011, 05:30 AM   #20
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Those little plastic caps do have a small purpose. The keep larger debris out of your axle tubes. Do you really want to try and pry a stick or rock out from inside your axle tube? If the wrong thing gets in the tubes, they can mar the axle shaft and eventually it will have a weak point on an already weak shaft.

I JUST broke mine when doing my u-joints. You can get them from a Jeep dealer. They are all of $3.00 each. They are called Dust Slingers. I BELIEVE that the Chrokees might have had a two piece design but I'm not certain.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:07 AM   #21
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Eh, mine wouldn't fit back on when I got my Superior shafts last year. Been off since had no issues yet. Plenty of trail time since then too.
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:59 AM   #22
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Those little plastic caps do have a small purpose. The keep larger debris out of your axle tubes. Do you really want to try and pry a stick or rock out from inside your axle tube? If the wrong thing gets in the tubes, they can mar the axle shaft and eventually it will have a weak point on an already weak shaft.

I JUST broke mine when doing my u-joints. You can get them from a Jeep dealer. They are all of $3.00 each. They are called Dust Slingers. I BELIEVE that the Chrokees might have had a two piece design but I'm not certain.
I just returned form a local Dealership and they had nothing listed for those caps under axles, brakes or anywhere else. Interesting.

I was just on the phone with another Dealership and the guy thinks they are called "oil slingers" on his listing and retail for around $4.00. They are not a two piece deal though.

I also just talked with a guy at a Jeep repair / modification shop that's big into modifying Jeeps for severe off roading as well, the local place to go if you have a Jeep. He says they just leave those off if broken. So ... not a big deal I am thinking.

Since the caps themselves aren't that sturdy, I'm thinking of closing the gap in one of mine, that's cracked, with J-B Weld. I am also thinking a circular piece of 1" thick "closed cell" styrofoam, split and glued, tie wrapped in place, next to the cap, would help keep the cap a little tighter. Then again, I may just repair the crack and forget about it.

For those in Canada, Princess Auto has a "special buy" 3-in-1 Ball Joint / U-Joint / C-Frame Press Service Kit on sale now for $39.99. Compare that with their u-joint tool at $59.99 and you will see that the former is a much better buy. The sale started today so I bought the $39.99 kit. Looks impressive, very heavy.
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:32 PM   #23
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remember...DO NOT remove the axle nut and DO NOT remove the hub. save yourself
Tried that, not a hope in (you know) with the rusted parts, might work when parts are new or if one has a hoist and a helper to get at things better.

I did not remove the axle nut, but pulled out the hub and axle as a uint. Even then, things didn't go smooth at all, the u-joint was in bad shape. In fact one cap split during removal and required a little work with the cold chisel. Even with the u-joint tool maxed out using a 16" long bar, a small sledge hammer was required as well to get things to move at times. So much for the u-joint tool making easy work of it. It was a great help though.

To add to a rather frustrating afternoon, the new u-joint fit the axle shaft just fine but when I tried to put it into the hub side, guess what. The prongs on the new u-joint are actually a little larger diameter than the one that came off, and wouldn't allow it to go into the yoke. The new u-joint was a Mopar part too. Back to the drawing board tomorrow.

Working on vehicles is so much fun.
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Old 06-23-2011, 05:04 AM   #24
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Update: Looked at it again at 11:00 last evening. With some minor filing, the u-joint went into the yoke okay.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:46 AM   #25
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Good point, I always support the caliper to take the weight off the hose using bungee cord, baling wire or a block.
Most repair shops just let them hang, without any ill effects, it seems.
Unless the hanging caliper puts the hardline to flex hose juncture in a bad position where it looks bad, then no, letting the caliper hang by the hose won't hurt a thing.

Most incorrectly assume that because it looks like a rubber hose, that it's somehow fragile like a fuel line or vacuum line which can kink and get damaged.

Brake flex hoses are rated to minimum 3000 PSI burst pressure and are heavily reinforced like the "rubber" hydraulic line for the pressure side of your power steering pump which runs up to 1500 PSI.

A brake flex hose is nothing more than a high pressure hydraulic pressure line, just a small one.

If you think about the life it lives, it's pretty darn tough. It's continually absorbing and handling the vibrations from one end being attached to the frame and the other following what the tire is doing going down the road. I'm sure most have driven on some washboard roads before and even that level of severe vibration and shaking bothers them nary a bit.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:49 AM   #26
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Tried that, not a hope in (you know) with the rusted parts, might work when parts are new or if one has a hoist and a helper to get at things better.

I did not remove the axle nut, but pulled out the hub and axle as a uint. Even then, things didn't go smooth at all, the u-joint was in bad shape. In fact one cap split during removal and required a little work with the cold chisel. Even with the u-joint tool maxed out using a 16" long bar, a small sledge hammer was required as well to get things to move at times. So much for the u-joint tool making easy work of it. It was a great help though.

To add to a rather frustrating afternoon, the new u-joint fit the axle shaft just fine but when I tried to put it into the hub side, guess what. The prongs on the new u-joint are actually a little larger diameter than the one that came off, and wouldn't allow it to go into the yoke. The new u-joint was a Mopar part too. Back to the drawing board tomorrow.

Working on vehicles is so much fun.
What part of the U-joint are you referring to as a Prong?
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:21 AM   #27
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What part of the U-joint are you referring to as a Prong?
The part that takes a cap (4 prongs, 4 caps). Although the caps are the same external diameter, the "prong" on the new u-joint measures larger BUT after re-examination, that's likely because the old one was worn due to rust.

The u-joint casting was a little rough, filed a smidgen off of it, and a smidgen off the yoke, and it went in ok afterall.

Thanks for the info re hanging the brake via the hose. I know a retired auto Mechanic who treated the hose as a hanger for decades. I questioned him on it once. He wondered why I was concerned. Live and learn, although I know some Mechanics who are reluctant to hang the caliper by the hose, then other Mechanics will hang caliper, complete with pads and caliper bracket via the hose and not give it a second thought.
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:13 PM   #28
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The part that takes a cap (4 prongs, 4 caps). Although the caps are the same external diameter, the "prong" on the new u-joint measures larger BUT after re-examination, that's likely because the old one was worn due to rust.

The u-joint casting was a little rough, filed a smidgen off of it, and a smidgen off the yoke, and it went in ok afterall.

Thanks for the info re hanging the brake via the hose. I know a retired auto Mechanic who treated the hose as a hanger for decades. I questioned him on it once. He wondered why I was concerned. Live and learn, although I know some Mechanics who are reluctant to hang the caliper by the hose, then other Mechanics will hang caliper, complete with pads and caliper bracket via the hose and not give it a second thought.
Believe it or not, the only hoses I don't hang calipers from at the stainless steel braided versions. They kink very easily and are not in the least forgiving.

As far as the u-joint goes- I think you're talking about the cross which has 4 pins for the u-joint caps to ride on and where they intersect the cross was a bit larger than what you removed and you filed it a bit?

If so, what was the brand of joint you installed?
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:09 PM   #29
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:11 PM   #30
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Believe it or not, the only hoses I don't hang calipers from at the stainless steel braided versions. They kink very easily and are not in the least forgiving.

As far as the u-joint goes- I think you're talking about the cross which has 4 pins for the u-joint caps to ride on and where they intersect the cross was a bit larger than what you removed and you filed it a bit?

If so, what was the brand of joint you installed?
You are right about the cross, plus there was a sharp edge on the yoke.

Mopar Value Line, made in China, 1 year warranty. I'm looking to buy a 2011 Wrangler in less than a year, so not overly concerned about the "best" quality, although these will probably last another 200,000 kms.

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