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Old 08-31-2011, 01:20 AM   #31
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Thank you so much, I looked at that website you recomended and it look like a new fuel pump cost 11o bucks.. does that sound right? less the the fpr?

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Old 10-07-2011, 07:19 PM   #32
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Looking at the same problem so I will be replacing my FPR too but I have a question about the fuel pump. With the key in the run position (but the engine not running) I assume it should be pushing fuel to the engine but with a pressure gauge attached to the rail I get no reading. When the engine is running I have around 45 psi. Would the FPR be impacting this too? When I get a chance I am going to put a volt meter on the hot wire (green/white) to see if current is flowing but I would have to assume so since the engine runs and I don't see a separate wire to energize it while cranking.

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Old 10-07-2011, 07:21 PM   #33
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The pressure at the fuel rail should always be pretty darned close to 49 psi which is what the engine needs to have a fast start. If that pressure is falling off after you shut the engine off, that indicates the check valve inside the FPR is bad.
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:39 PM   #34
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Ok, so at the risk of beating that dead horse, I purchased a new FPR and am able to blow air through both directions. Does this truly indicate a bad one?
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:42 PM   #35
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Ok, so at the risk of beating that dead horse, I purchased a new FPR and am able to blow air through both directions. Does this truly indicate a bad one?
Though it doesn't make sense to me, apparently not. I got a PM from someone who could blow through it both directions but decided to install it anyway. It fixed his slow start problem. Maybe the heavier viscosity of gasoline vs. air makes the check valve work with gas but not air.
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Old 10-10-2011, 08:32 PM   #36
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I have this problem too and will probably try and tackle it this weekend. I'm thinking just the FPR though and not the whole pump assembly.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:45 PM   #37
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Upon review of my Haynes repair manual they state that after you turn the engine off if the bleed down in fuel pressure is quick replace the FPR, if it is slow, replace the fuel pump. Well, mine is fast so I am going with replacing the FPR only at this time. Crossing my fingers that air flow through both directions is not an issue but I am going to hedge my bet by picking up an FPR at another auto parts outlet to see if I can blow through it. I understand the concept of the regulator using a diaphram and spring to keep the fuel pressure steady but by gosh there would need to be a check ball in there to keep the fuel from flowing backwards. Some have said that there is a check ball in the fuel pump housing and perhaps that is the issue. Dunno what is up but guessing that I would be unable to return a fuel pump that has been used if there is nothing wrong with it.
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Old 10-11-2011, 05:32 PM   #38
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It all sounds pretty technical but my Jeep had the slow start problem when I bought and the guy before warned me about it and said mechanic couldn't figure out the problem. I researched here, replace the FPR myself and viola!!! Problem solved.
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Old 10-17-2011, 07:44 AM   #39
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After reading all the posts and reviewing the situation I chose to return the FPR and purchase a complete fuel pump assembly for only $70 more than what the FPR cost. I hate doing things twice and figured if I was going to all the trouble to drop the fuel tank I might as well replace everything so I don't have to do it again. I removed the FPR from the pump and was able to blow air through it in both directions. I am beginning to think the only check valve is in the fuel pump assembly if at all. I will be putting the pump in sometime this week as I have been driving it in order to lower the fuel level so the tank is more manageable. I will also be checking the wiring to see if the fuel pump is energizing with the ignition key in the "run" position as this does not seem to be the case.
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:32 AM   #40
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I finally bit the bullet and dropped the fuel tank last night. Once completed the Jeep fired up and consistently starts right up without the very long cranking previously experienced. The process took 3 1/2 hours (which included removing rust and sealing the rock guard, welding a broken mount and hold-down tank strap bolt ) but was well worth it. Here is the procedure I followed.
First of all the tank should be as empty as possible. I had four gallons of gas in the tank so it was easily managable. Next, put the rear of the Jeep up on jack stands so you have plenty of room to manuever but low enough so that you can raise your floor jack up to support the fuel tank. Raise the jack up, just supporting the tank, then remove the seven nuts that hold the steel rock cover to the frame. The fuel filler can be disconnected by removing four phillips head screws from the outside. Remove the gas cap and push the filler into the body. Reaching up from the bottom opening, replace the gas cap so that no dirt gets in. Slowly lower the tank far enough to gain access to the electrical coupler, fuel line and fuel return line. Disconnect all of these then lower the tank to the floor, making sure that the fuel filler and hoses do not bind.
I removed the plastic gas tank from the steel rock guard because I suspected (and rightly so) that I would need to remove rust. You may or may not decide to do this. In the process, I twisted one of the two fuel tank strap bolts off and had to weld a new bolt on. The steel pan was indeed quite rusty and even had a hole through it so I cleaned it up and put on a thick coat of Eastmann's Rust Encapsulator. I also had to re-weld one of the supports that had broken loose.
Next, lifting the gas tank on end, I drained the remaining gas into a 5 gallon gas can (through the smaller filler vent hose after removing it from the filler) in order to remove as much fuel as possible. I then tackled removing the large plastic nut from the fuel pump/gauge assembly. I used a rubber dead blow hammer and a 2x4 that had a 45 degree bevel on it. Sitting on one end of the tank and after several heavy blows, I was finally able to slowly loosen the nut. I removed the fuel pump assembly and filter (which was separated from the pump and floating in the bottom). I installed the new rubber gasket and inserted the pump, making sure that it was pushed in correctly (it is spring loaded), with the arrow on the top of the assembly pointing to the front. I then put on the plastic nut and tightened it back down, making sure not to cross thread it. The FPR was already attached but just for giggles I took it off and was able to blow air through both directions.
I then strapped the tank back into the rock guard and, placing the unit back on the floor jack, raised it back into place, reversing the process for disassembly. Once everything was secure I re-filled the gas and turned the key. After priming the line the Jeep started up. I turned it off and tried again and it fired right off. I repeated this several times and each time it started right up. I went in to to dinner and afterwards I returned and the Wrangler once more fired right up. I took it to the gas station and filled up the tank. Once more it fired right up. This morning it also fired right up.
Lessons learned. One of the parts men at Napa (who used to work at a Chrylser dealership) stated that he didn't believe that the FPR had a check valve in it. He said that it is generally located inside the pump assembly. From what I have seen this appears to be true. Tonight I am going to cut open the old FPR and see what's inside. Second, the fuel pump assembly cost $175 and included a new FPR and was well worth every penny considering how much less wear and tear there will be on the starter motor and battery. And equally important, I won't have people staring at me as I crank the Jeep for a long time in order to start it. Lastly, and also very important, with winter quickly approaching, I won't be wondering whether or not the battery will be up to the task of getting me going in the morning.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:53 PM   #41
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fuel pressure drop

Is the replacable fpr on all TJ 4.0??? I have an '03 and the fsm doesn''t show a replaceable unit-- except the whole pump assembly. The fuel pressure bleeds of on my jeep in 10-20 seconds. pressure at 48psi when running. just long cranking until I found no pressure-- now key on -off-on off fairly fast and the pump runs for one second each time and than crank fast before pressure falls. reasonable starts cold or hot. thanks, Macsjeep
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:56 PM   #42
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fixed typo
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Old 10-19-2011, 08:01 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by macsjeep View Post
Is the replacable fpr on all TJ 4.0??? I have an '03 and the fsm doesn''t show a replaceable unit-- except the whole pump assembly. The fuel pressure bleeds of on my jeep in 10-20 seconds. pressure at 48psi when running. just long cranking until I found no pressure-- now key on -off-on off fairly fast and the pump runs for one second each time and than crank fast before pressure falls. reasonable starts cold or hot. thanks, Macsjeep
Yes the FPR is separately replaceable on your '03. I think the separately replaceable FPR only went away in '05. My '04 has a separately replaceable FPR, I have already replaced it.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:34 PM   #44
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I agree with JB, just replace the fuel pump..pretty easy,no special tools,strap wrench helps or just use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to knock the ring loose. I did mine a few weeks ago by myself with just a floorjack.I got lucky mine went out with only a couple gallons left in the tank.
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:51 PM   #45
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Another great WF thread. On my list.
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:03 PM   #46
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ok guys I may have the same type of problem however if my jeep sits overnight it isn't a hard crank however if I drive it to the store then come back out it doesn't want to crank. I tested the pressure on the fuel bar after I turned the key off and not a drop of fuel came out. While running it as strong as ever well really stronger I just rebuilt the engine and bored it out a little. I did get about gallon of water in my tank during a hurricane last season and to drop my tank and empty it while I was at the coast to remove the water and junk from it. I have had this problem for over a year however it just seems to be getting wrost now any help I will be thankful

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Old 07-08-2012, 12:43 PM   #47
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I plan on replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. My build sheet says I have a 15 gal tank on my 97 TJ sport. The fuel pump assembly for the 15 gal tank is a lot more in price! Will the 19 gal fuel pump assembly work/fit?
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Old 07-08-2012, 02:28 PM   #48
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Sometimes a build sheet says 15 gallon tank near the top but later says it was upgraded to a 19 gallon within a package of options... especially on a Sport which seldom came with a 15 gallon tank. And the rumor says the 15 gallon tank is really a 19 gallon tank but with a different vent hose length. Some say they have modified their vent hose to turn their 15 gallon tank into a 19 gallon tank. If I were a betting man I'd bet the 19 gallon tank fuel pump would fit your TJ.
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Old 07-09-2012, 12:28 AM   #49
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I noticed RockAuto has 5 different brands of fuel pump assemblys ranging in price from $155 to $354. Bosch is the highest price one, does it really make any difference in quality and performance which brand/price a person gets?
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Old 07-09-2012, 01:24 AM   #50
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Think mines going out too, gonna keep it less than 1/2 tank for a few weeks just in case
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Old 07-09-2012, 03:15 PM   #51
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About how many miles are most of you getting on your Jeep before the fuel pressure regulator/fuel pump has to be replaced? I have approx 65,000 on my 2001 Wrangler 4.0 and was wondering if I'm getting close to "D" day or if it's generally over 100,000 miles. Or maybe time enters into the factor as much as useage.
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:16 PM   #52
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Just about 96k for me on my 97 TJ Sport
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:22 PM   #53
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i have the same problem and just ran a 24 hr test on my jeep. last night i decided to park my Jeep with the front facing downhill (I usually park the opposite way). when i went to start the Jeep it started much faster.i'm thinking once with the ignition trick might be best. don't quote me on this but i believe front facing downhill keeps fuel in the line via gravity.
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Old 07-09-2012, 06:36 PM   #54
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I noticed RockAuto has 5 different brands of fuel pump assemblys ranging in price from $155 to $354. Bosch is the highest price one, does it really make any difference in quality and performance which brand/price a person gets?
I couldn't afford much when I needed one so I ended up paying $180 or so for a combination fuel pump/fuel pressure regulator a couple years ago from Rock Auto. So far it's doing fine in my '04 TJ. Unfortunately I don't recall its brand name. I was uncomfortable not buying the OE from the dealer but...
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Old 07-12-2012, 07:01 PM   #55
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FYI

My 97 Wrangler TJ Sport build sheet states it has a 15 gallon tank and when I dropped the tank and pulled the fuel pump assembly I noticed that it was for a 15 gallon tank (Says it on the side). I bought the fuel pump assembly for the 19 gallon tank and it appeared identical in size compared to the 15 gallon pump I pulled. I threw the new pump in and it fit and worked like a champ. I also did the mod to cut down the breather hose as well. Filled up the tank and was able to get over 17 gallons in there.

From what I can tell, if you have a 15 gallon tank and need a new fuel pump assembly, just buy the one for the 19 gallon tank because it is cheaper, fits and works great. I was seeing the 15 gallon tank fuel pump assembly selling for almost $100 more in some cases. Some brands were only $20 more but why waste your money when you don't have to.
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:56 AM   #56
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as far as I know the only actual difference between the 15 and 19 gallon pump assembly is the fuel gauge arm. its shorter on the 15 because full is at a shallower spot on the tank.

one thing im trying to figure out... My 97 has a square plug, and all replacements seem to have a rectangular plug...

this is what mine looks like


It almost looks like a dodge dakota fuel assembly.. im so confused
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:11 AM   #57
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VERY early '97 TJs often used 1995 Wrangler YJ parts, particularly electrical like sensors. You may need to use a fuel pump out of a '95. I had to use a '95 Throttle Position Sensor when I needed to replace it in my '97. The '97 TPS I first bought had a different connector than what my '97 had but the '95 TPS fit perfectly.
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:59 PM   #58
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yeah, I think thats mostly the case.
the assembly is actually the same but early on in 97 they were still using the YJ plugs, they upgraded the plugs late in 97 and retrofit all pumps. the only options I have at the moment are.
1) splice the old wiring onto the new assembly
2) splice a new plug to the jeep side
3) buy a $50 wiring harness from jeep to convert old plug to new

I will likely just splice the wiring harness from the old into the new, unless I can find a reasonable adapter.. I really don't like those options but they will work.
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:12 PM   #59
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I spoke to my jeep mechanic today and he told me the FPR is located at the fuel outlet under the hood and that the check valve is located on top of the tank. I have a 4.0 and am wondering if it's possible that just the FPR could be bad vs. the check valve or as someone posted, it would have to be both? Can someone clarify please?
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Old 09-20-2012, 04:43 PM   #60
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Your mechanic is wrong, the fuel pressure regulator which contains the anti-drain back valve is located on top of the fuel tank as described above.

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