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Old 02-11-2011, 02:50 AM   #1
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Replacing fuel pressure regulator?

So my Jeep takes few cranks to start but if i do on off on off crank it will start. I was told its the Fuel pressure reg..i know its
In the tank, is this a hard task ? Should I let a pro do it? And do i need to replace
the whole assembly or just the valve? I cant seem to find the valve any where! Thanks in advanced guys!

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Old 02-11-2011, 05:13 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hcenteno21
So my Jeep takes few cranks to start but if i do on off on off crank it will start. I was told its the Fuel pressure reg..i know its
In the tank, is this a hard task ? Should I let a pro do it? And do i need to replace
the whole assembly or just the valve? I cant seem to find the valve any where! Thanks in advanced guys!
My 1999 TJ (Sahara) takes about three cranks to start when cold, one if warm. My mechanic tells me that the pressure in the fuel line is below normal pressure. Strangely the pressure seems to increase (to normal) after the engine has been running a few minutes. I understand that the only fix is to replace the fuel pump module. This repair involves dropping the fuel tank, not a super difficult repair but not one you should attempt single handed. Your fuel pressure regulator problem will also require replacing the fuel pump module. Good luck.

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Old 02-11-2011, 06:33 AM   #3
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My 4.0L does the same thing. I just turn the key to the on postion and just wait for the fuel pump to do its thing. Just trying to remember doing this on cold starts takes a while to remember.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:37 AM   #4
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It's not s hard job if you have space and tools. The tank weighs a ton full but is manageable when it's almost empty so whether you take it in or do it yourself an empty tank is a must. A good floor jack and a friend are needed too. The entire pump assembly must be changed. Don't do it in a garage with a gas hot water heater or any other flame source.
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Old 02-11-2011, 06:38 AM   #5
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Yea i got the same issue. Let me know what you go with.. I'm thinking of replacing the entire pump just so i wont have to worry about it again in the future.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:36 AM   #6
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I had the same issues last year, but mine got steadily worse until it could take nearly a minute of spinning to get it to start. I fitted a new tank unit and the problem went away. The job was pretty straight forward and I managed it on my own (with too much cussing), and on the floor with no special tools except a small 2T floor jack and standard hand tools. As TexasT mentioned, make sure you drive the tank to empty first. The FSM gives a very good and detailed replacement procedure guide.
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Old 02-11-2011, 09:05 AM   #7
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It can be done in an hour and you only need basic hand tools and a jack to do it. Just make sure the tank is nearly empty before you start the job.

This is what the top of the tank and fuel pressure regulator looks like, which just snaps into place, I replaced mine earlier this year.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:09 AM   #8
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How much did that run you?
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:19 AM   #9
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Mine was $170 from the dealership, but I have seen it online for about $100 before I made the spark impulse to buy it while I was at the dealership.
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Old 02-11-2011, 10:23 AM   #10
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Thanks
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Old 02-11-2011, 12:41 PM   #11
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I paid something like $80 for mine. RockAuto Auto Parts
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Old 02-11-2011, 02:47 PM   #12
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can this problem just be lived with? or will it eventually get worse and need to be fixed?

I Have this problem, but it really is no big deal to me. If Its going to stay reliable then Ill just leave it.

Or is it safe to say it will die on me eventually?
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:10 PM   #13
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Mine got worse and worse, I had to cycle my fuel pump 7-8 times before starting it before I replaced it.
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Old 02-11-2011, 07:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Mine got worse and worse, I had to cycle my fuel pump 7-8 times before starting it before I replaced it.
thankyou, you are a very helpful man
thanks for the wd-40 reply too
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Old 02-12-2011, 12:15 AM   #15
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Yeah i need to cycle mine at least 3 times..so i will need to replace the whole fuel pump? This is where im confused or just fuel pump motor or what specific part..thanks again
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:56 PM   #16
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I seem to have the same problem, if I turn the key and keep it cranking it takes about 7-9 cranks to turn over however if I turn the key on-off-on-off-on it usually starts right up. So what I am looking for is the fuel pressure regulator which is located on top of the fuel tank not the fuel pump it self, correct? Thanks
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:27 PM   #17
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SMP/STANDARD PR318 Fuel Pressure Regulator/Kit | eBay

is This what I am looking for?

Thanks for you help guys!
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
It can be done in an hour and you only need basic hand tools and a jack to do it. Just make sure the tank is nearly empty before you start the job.

This is what the top of the tank and fuel pressure regulator looks like, which just snaps into place, I replaced mine earlier this year.
I just bought a brand new BWD Fuel Pressure Regulator from my local O'Reilly Auto Parts Store. It cost $113 w/ a lifetime warrenty.. I notice it looks identical to the one you have in your hand in the picture..
Did you replace the entire pump or just the regulator? And after doing so did this solve your long cranking problem? I have to cycle mine 1-2 times before I can get my 97 tj to fire up.. I am installing this new regulator very soon but I need to know if this solves the problem? Did it for you? thank a billion!
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Old 08-30-2011, 01:27 AM   #19
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Just replacing the fuel pressure regulator will fix your problem, the check valve that causes the problem is inside it.

Test the new regulator's internal check valve before installing it by insuring you cannot blow air backwards through it with your mouth via its fuel output port.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:18 AM   #20
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Unhappy Please Help Me Sir. Desperate!

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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Just replacing the fuel pressure regulator will fix your problem, the check valve that causes the problem is inside it.

Test the new regulator's internal check valve before installing it by insuring you cannot blow air backwards through it with your mouth via its fuel output port.
So I installed the brand new Fuel Pressure Regulator today.. Before doing so I blew through both ends of it with my mouth and I was able to feel air coming out both ends.. How ever, I told this to a mechanic and asked him if that meant it was a faulty regulator, he told me no and that its fine if your able to blow through it both ways.. what are the chances that I got a faulty Regulator? Because now my problem is even worse than it was before I replaced it, now every single time I turn off my Jeep it has trouble starting back up even if its only been sitting a minute or two.. it use to only do this when it sat for long periods of time such as over night in the garage but now its all the time!
How could my problem have gotten worse? Please tell me any and all suggestions you may have for me and I will do them all, whether it is to buy another one and try again or is it something else? thank you soooooo much!
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:22 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by TexasT View Post
It's not s hard job if you have space and tools. The tank weighs a ton full but is manageable when it's almost empty so whether you take it in or do it yourself an empty tank is a must. A good floor jack and a friend are needed too. The entire pump assembly must be changed. Don't do it in a garage with a gas hot water heater or any other flame source.
Why must the "entire pump assembly" be changed? why not only the Fuel Pressure regulator itself???
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:23 AM   #22
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My first replacement FPR did not fix my problem and I was able to blow backwards through it after I removed it to install the replacment. The second FPR did not and the problem was fixed.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:23 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jaxster View Post
My 1999 TJ (Sahara) takes about three cranks to start when cold, one if warm. My mechanic tells me that the pressure in the fuel line is below normal pressure. Strangely the pressure seems to increase (to normal) after the engine has been running a few minutes. I understand that the only fix is to replace the fuel pump module. This repair involves dropping the fuel tank, not a super difficult repair but not one you should attempt single handed. Your fuel pressure regulator problem will also require replacing the fuel pump module. Good luck.
Why dp you say it involves changing the entire fuel pump module? not just the regulator itself? whats your reason for this?
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:30 AM   #24
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My first replacement FPR did not fix my problem and I was able to blow backwards through it after I removed it to install the replacment. The second FPR did not and the problem was fixed.
So were you able to blow air backwards though your second replacement FPR???????????????????????????? did you try? please help me!
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:43 AM   #25
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Now that I try to think back about it, I'm not sure if I blew back through the replacement FPR to test it. I just know everything was fine the second time around. All I know for sure is the FPR has a check valve in it that should not allow fuel or air to flow backwards through it.

Edit: There are actually two fuel check valves, one inside the FPR and the other at the outlet of the fuel pump assembly. Either should be enough to maintain fuel pressure in the line after the engine is killed so, really, both need to have gone bad for the slow start problem.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:59 AM   #26
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Now that I try to think back about it, I'm not sure if I blew back through the replacement FPR to test it. I just know everything was fine the second time around. All I know for sure is the FPR has a check valve in it that should not allow fuel or air to flow backwards through it.

Edit: There are actually two fuel check valves, one inside the FPR and the other at the outlet of the fuel pump assembly. Either should be enough to maintain fuel pressure in the line after the engine is killed so, really, both need to have gone bad for the slow start problem.
Im so confused? what should I do? buy the entire pump then? is there anything else that could cause a slow start?
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:04 AM   #27
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A number of things like a leaky fuel injector can cause it but I doubt anything other than the FPR or perhaps something in how it and the fuel pump are seating together is causing the leakage. At this point, perhaps just biting the bullet and replacing both the FPR and fuel pump together as an assembly is your best bet. They're not too expensive at RockAuto Auto Parts.

And believe me, I was just as frustrated after my first FPR didn't fix the problem as you are now.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:12 AM   #28
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You have no idea how much your helping me... your the only person that even seems to know anything about all this.... Guess Im gonna but an entire fuel pump with a new fpr and see if it works.. thanks sooooooooooooo much Jerry.... how hard it changing the whole fuel pump? Details on doing this would be nice thank u again
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:13 AM   #29
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A number of things like a leaky fuel injector can cause it but I doubt anything other than the FPR or perhaps something in how it and the fuel pump are seating together is causing the leakage. At this point, perhaps just biting the bullet and replacing both the FPR and fuel pump together as an assembly is your best bet. They're not too expensive at RockAuto Auto Parts.

And believe me, I was just as frustrated after my first FPR didn't fix the problem as you are now.
Basic how to on changing the fuel pump?
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:15 AM   #30
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Changing the fuel pump only takes 5-10 minutes longer than changing the FPR does. That big white knurled plastic lock ring holds it in place, all you have to do is unscrew the ring and lift the fuel pump out. Be careful when inserting the new fuel pump not to bump the float for the fuel level gauge sender. Take your time getting the knurled ring back on square so it doesn't get cross-threaded when tightening it. It took me a minute or two to get the ring started straight.

An inexpensive strap wrench would be a good idea to get the big knurled ring off and back on tight again.

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