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Replacing the hub bearing assembly

3K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  Blazor 
#1 ·
Here is a write-up with pics on replacing the hub bearing assembly. This is a fairly easy job, and takes no time to do.

Note: this is my first write-up, so if Im leaving something out please feel free to chime in. I also didnt know the right way at first, gave up, then tackled it again so this is a mix of pics.


First, jack up the Jeep, remove the tire, place the frame down on jack stands and remove the jack. Then remove the rotor, and hang the brake calipers up and out of the way, I just used a coat hanger.






Next, I removed the cotter pin, cap and compression washer.








This is where I highly recommend spraying some PB Blaster on the axle nut, and the 3 bolts in the back that hold it on. Or else it will start to call you names.....








These are the 3 bolts in the back holding it on (I circled 2 you can see in the picture). They are 12 point, a 6 point will not work if you have any rust erosion. I think it was a 13mm socket.








I jammed a crowbar in between the hub bolts so the hub would not spin (see later pic). You'll need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut. I had a hard time finding this at first, but Advance Auto carried it in a separate section from the normal sockets. I also used a 4 foot breaker bar over my wrench to help break it free.










After that if should come right out. If not, give it a lil tap, it may be stuck on. Dont forget how your brake shield goes. At this time, you could also pull the axle shaft out, and replace the U-joint if need be. Before I installed the new hub, I also scraped and cleaned up the mating surface around the area.









Reinstall brake shield. Hub slides right on. Reinstall the 3 bolts in the back, torque to 75lbs. Then slide on the washer and axle nut.









I jammed the hub bolts again with a crowbar, but this time I didnt want to damage the threads, so I put thick plastic tubing over the bolts. You could prolly use rubber too. Torque your axle nut to 175lbs.







Put your compression washer back on, then the cap and cotter pin.








Thats it! Put your rotor and pads back on, jack it up, put the tire back on, remove the stands, lower, and you're good to go :beerdrinking:
 
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#2 ·
A trick to removing the unit bearing also is to use a 2" or longer bolt (grade 8),and place it between the inner C and on the ear of the outer axle shaft and turn the wheel. Bearings pop right off
 
#3 ·
Another trick to remove the bearing is to back out the three bolts that holds it in, then put a BFH to them. Pops right out. (You'll need another set of bolts as these will be shot.) When I still had unit bearings I kept an extra set of bolts around just for this reason.
 
#10 ·
If you need to replace the front u-joints, I would definitely recommend spending some time and cleaning up the yolks before putting new u-joints in. Grab a flat or triangular file and a round file to clean up the flat and inner surfaces where the new u-joints will seat and then put the c-clip retainers in. Took about 10 minutes for each yolk and the new u-joints went in super easy. Also needed a BFH to take my hubs off the back plate.
 
#12 ·
If you don't like shells in your eggs wait until you see how crunchy those little needle bearings are.

If you replace the u-joints be careful with those loopy little ears they mount in - easy to bend.

If you have to you can change anything with a BFH. It might not be fixed or even fixable but it will never be the same.
 
#14 ·
I let a shop do my one side u-joint after I pulled the axle, and when I called they said they had a press. When I went to pick it up they had just started and I heard a hammer for half an hour. They beat the hell out of it and then charged me the time it took. Amateurs. Never going there again. The other side I did myself with a BFH using the bigger socket smaller socket technique. Was hard to get 'em out, but easy to go back in. That was my first time doing a u-joint. Looked a lot better than the other axle the shop did.
 
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