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Old 10-23-2011, 11:36 AM   #61
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What do you guys think of these?

Rocker Rail, Pair, TJ

I love their stuff but not sure what makes them better or worse than say the ones from E Autogrills?

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Old 10-23-2011, 11:39 AM   #62
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You may also look into tomken, they make some nice rails.

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Old 10-23-2011, 12:34 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakk17 View Post
What do you guys think of these?

Rocker Rail, Pair, TJ

I love their stuff but not sure what makes them better or worse than say the ones from E Autogrills?

almost too pretty to get scratched up IMO
and they cost twice as much.
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:59 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rakk17
What do you guys think of these?

Rocker Rail, Pair, TJ

I love their stuff but not sure what makes them better or worse than say the ones from E Autogrills?
'Spensive, that's what I think lol.
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:19 PM   #65
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The sun is up, so here's my pictures. Don't mind the dirt


very nice rockers....who made those btw?
are those self tapping screws on the rocker panel?
thanks.
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Old 10-23-2011, 01:22 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by zdragon

very nice rockers....who made those btw?
are those self tapping screws on the rocker panel?
thanks.
I believe those are Rokmen
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:00 PM   #67
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im going to go to 4 wheel parts tmrw to see what they have and talk to them about it too. and physically see the rock sliders
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Old 10-23-2011, 02:46 PM   #68
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Quote:
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I believe those are Rokmen
Yes, they are Rokmens.
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Originally Posted by zdragon View Post
very nice rockers....who made those btw?
are those self tapping screws on the rocker panel?
thanks.
No, they aren't self tapping screws. The holes are drilled 3/8" and bolts fasten to nuts sandwiched with a thick grade 8 plate and washer.
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:00 PM   #69
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Yes, they are Rokmens.

No, they aren't self tapping screws. The holes are drilled 3/8" and bolts fasten to nuts sandwiched with a thick grade 8 plate and washer.

i see...seems like a lot of work involved.
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Old 10-23-2011, 03:08 PM   #70
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i see...seems like a lot of work involved.
I guess it took me about 2 hours to install. Not too bad. Prep and painting took longer.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:13 PM   #71
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i have the same rokmen mercenary sliders, and i love the sh!t out of them
i like the bedliner look. i went with black also, but i dont think im very happy
with my paintjob. once its ready to be redone (it will come to that point sooner
than later) im not sure if i wanna go with the bedliner, or just go have them
powdercoated this time. keep us updated on how the bedliner works! it does
make sense and looks good man.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:17 PM   #72
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I guess it took me about 2 hours to install. Not too bad. Prep and painting took longer.

you wouldn't have a pic showing the back side of those mounting screws?
inside my left rocker panel has at least three wiring harness permanently attached to it.....i don't want to drive any of those screws into it.
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:20 PM   #73
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this is my driverside rocker. my driver rear corner is worse
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:13 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by InvertChaos

'Spensive, that's what I think lol.
I agree. Curious what would justify the cost.
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Old 10-23-2011, 05:22 PM   #75
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I agree. Curious what would justify the cost.
Its all the same 3/16" steel with a tube that's been welded together. Can't be more than $40 worth of steel. That's what makes me mad about the $300-400 costs of these sliders.
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Old 10-23-2011, 06:03 PM   #76
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Paying for the name is all. I can get a set of Savvys for 150 or so less than those, just as strong and no rust idssues.......
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Old 10-23-2011, 07:21 PM   #77
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you wouldn't have a pic showing the back side of those mounting screws?
inside my left rocker panel has at least three wiring harness permanently attached to it.....i don't want to drive any of those screws into it.
I know what wires you're talking about. The holes are below the wires that run down the drivers side. It's too dark for pictures but I'll try to get some tomorrow if it's still light out when I get home from work.
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. keep us updated on how the bedliner works! it does
make sense and looks good man.
I used the same bedliner on my doorhandles and bumpers. It's tough and cleans up better than I ever thought. I thought that it would hold mud in the pours but Rausch Creek mud/clay sprayed right off.
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:06 PM   #78
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Paying for the name is all. I can get a set of Savvys for 150 or so less than those, just as strong and no rust idssues.......
lotta work goes into these. i really did research on stuff, and i really push my
jeep. i have serious scrapes, and some of those scrapes are in places not
covered by all sliders. yes, there is a difference in paying for a quality product
made by craftsmen VS the basic no frills product. they both do the basic same
thing, but i will always choose the better product. the extra cash outlay
is well worth it to me.

a cool video on the making of their sliders.

some people are ok with the cheaper made in china tools too. i prefer to buy
the good stuff, so i dont have to buy it again, ever.
its your jeep, your dollar. as long as you get what you want out of it, you
are ahead of the crowd
(btw..i cant see any specs or mounting pics on the savvy products at all, so
i cant judge them. you can see everything on the rokmen site.)
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:08 PM   #79
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Paying for the name is all. I can get a set of Savvys for 150 or so less than those, just as strong and no rust idssues.......
Where are you finding that? I see an aluminum base plate for $305 which still needs the slider. Their sliders are $499.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:12 PM   #80
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I know what wires you're talking about. The holes are below the wires that run down the drivers side. It's too dark for pictures but I'll try to get some tomorrow if it's still light out when I get home from work.

Thanks

my mom lives in greenbelt Md.
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:18 PM   #81
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What's the general opinion on OR-FAB sliders?
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:27 PM   #82
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Thanks

my mom lives in greenbelt Md.
I figured I'd give it a try. They didn't turn out too bad.
The long bracket is the internal reinforcement brackets I got with the sliders. Three of the bolts mount to it and part of it is also riveted to the hump next to the seat.

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Old 10-23-2011, 09:44 PM   #83
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Old 10-23-2011, 09:47 PM   #84
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well...as long as the inside bracket clears those wire connectors.
Thanks again for the pics.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:15 PM   #85
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I like Rokmen, they do a lot of serious thinking and engineering before they make their products, I'm using one of their tank skids as they are the only ones that make allowances for the fuel pump lasting more than 6 months.

I posted the first post here about the Brooks sliders, I got mine over a year ago and they were cheaper, as far as rock damage on the mounting bolts, that made me laugh almost out loud, take a close look at how and where they mount on the bottom, if you hit those with a rock then that side of your tub has now been torn from the frame and the sliders arent going to help you much I can tell you from experiance, the bottom mounts arent an issue, think about the physics of the part, its bolted to the outside of the tub, the only way to break the bottom mounts loose is to have enough down force on the top of the slider to shear the 7 bolts on the side, that isnt going to happen, at least not in a way that sliders will be your concern. Sliders protect the side of tub from the bottom of the tub to about half way up, if your mirrors get broke off, your sliders arent to blame, the main resistance to pressure a slider provides is from the side and bottom, and its been my experiance that 99% of the time its from the side, trees, rocks, other vehicles, they all hit the side when either you slide in to them, or in the case of vehicles, they slide in to you. Mounting isnt what I worry about, and I do wheel hard, technical rock, hard. When I bought them I loved 2 things about them, first, the price, it was awesome, second was of what and how they are made, they dont weigh a ton and the weight of your Jeep isnt enough to damage them when they break your slide, the rest is cosmetic asthetics, get the ones that please your eye, and your wallet, the only usefull advice other than that anyone can give on sliders is dont paint them with expensive paint or powder coating / bed lining, the first time you scrape them, you'll be glad you have $4 rattle can paint on it. whatever you get enjoy and happy wheeling.
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:50 PM   #86
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Where are you finding that? I see an aluminum base plate for $305 which still needs the slider. Their sliders are $499.

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Old 10-23-2011, 11:53 PM   #87
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Anyone heard of Rock Hard 4x4?
Yep. I am running those on my TJ.



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Old 10-24-2011, 12:27 AM   #88
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just how thick is "10 gauge" steel ?

for $150 those are priced nicely, they dont look very thick though :?
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:03 AM   #89
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Where are you finding that? I see an aluminum base plate for $305 which still needs the slider. Their sliders are $499.
You can get a fair discount by calling Gerald direct. The shipping for those others is $70 toO cause they weigh 85 lbs, the aluminum is a good bit lighter. But even if they were the same price, why would you want to add more weight to an already underpowered rig for the same protection?
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:21 AM   #90
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just how thick is "10 gauge" steel ?

for $150 those are priced nicely, they dont look very thick though :?

x2 that

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