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Old 04-25-2013, 09:04 PM   #31
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I got my professionally powder coated which was pretty pricey but I didn't want to rattle can them when I paid over $1000 for the sliders and bumpers.

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Old 04-26-2013, 07:23 AM   #32
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I don't see any that's been painted. If I were to go that route I would have to have them bed lined.
I used Rustoleum rattle can bedliner on mine (see pic in previous post) and I'm very pleased with the results.

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Old 04-26-2013, 07:29 AM   #33
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I see it the opposite way; I can't see paying for something expensive like powder coating when it's going to get scraped off anyway. But if you don't play that hard I could see the benefit.

To each his own.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:06 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by All Terrain TJ View Post

I used Rustoleum rattle can bedliner on mine (see pic in previous post) and I'm very pleased with the results.
Hey do you have any pics of how the savvys mount inside the Jeep to the floor? Do they come with backing plates?
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:16 AM   #35
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Hey do you have any pics of how the savvys mount inside the Jeep to the floor? Do they come with backing plates?
Savvy's sliders use nutserts to mount to the floor/bottom of the tub and on the side where there is a "double wall", or in other words there are two layers of the tub forming a cavity. They use an aluminum backing plate inside the tub:



I stole that photo from Jerry's writeup:

Lose weight, get stronger, & look better... installing Savvy's rockers & corners - JeepForum.com

You'll see some companies that tell you to hack up your tub in order to put a regular nut on the bolts where the cavity is, but using a nutsert is a much cleaner method.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:27 AM   #36
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So if I understand this right there are no through bolts in the floor they all use nutzerts? Wouldn't through bolts be stronger?
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #37
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:34 AM   #38
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So if I understand this right there are no through bolts in the floor they all use nutzerts? Wouldn't through bolts be stronger?
You won't find a slider that is stronger or more intelligently designed than Savvy's. The way they are bolted to the tub, provided the installer preloads the sliders properly, the slider will never be able to move.

Blaine doesn't design things half-ass; if there was a better way to mount the slider, it would be done differently.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:14 AM   #39
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So if I understand this right there are no through bolts in the floor they all use nutzerts? Wouldn't through bolts be stronger?
If you were to use thru-bolt in the floor area when you tightened them down it would just compress the two layers. That would distort the metal and eventually loosen up. Once you install a set you will realize they are not moving. On the nutserts, only six support your tcase and transmission. Each slider has 11.

Geiman: Since you mentioned Blaine, I have been curious about his relationship with Savvy. Is he an owner or partner? He seems to do a lot of R&D work for them and other reputable companies. Again just curious
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:27 AM   #40
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Geiman: Since you mentioned Blaine, I have been curious about his relationship with Savvy. Is he an owner or partner? He seems to do a lot of R&D work for them and other reputable companies. Again just curious
I couldn't tell you whether Blaine owns any part of Savvy or not, but I do know that he is the brains behind most of what they have created. I'm on the east coast so I haven't been able to meet either of them personally, so honestly I have no idea the history of everything. I know Blaine has worked for several companies, and has had a hand in making many neat things like the Safety Thimble:

Viking Winchlines - Safety Thimble

Super 88 kit, Sway Loc:

Off Road Only SwayLOC™

and I'm sure many other things. He's helped me out a few times, most recently with a bent shaft with my Super 88 kit; he is a very good person to work with. If you don't already know, he goes by Black Magic Brakes on this site.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:12 AM   #41
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Yeah I followed your super 88 problem as I was gonna start building my 8.8.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:33 AM   #42
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They are not really special that I know of they just don't really advertise them. I seen a couple of forum members running them on their rigs and liked them better than the standard sliders. I called Gerald at Savvy and requested them. This is how they look installed.


I have read that the other type is a bit stronger but these are still 3/16 aluminum overlapped with 3/16 steel. They attached with about 20 bolts per side plus have an aluminum backer inside the tub. These are plenty strong enough for my needs.

The nice thing about the tube style is a wider step area. You can also add a top piece that bolts down to the tube. Blaine did this one in diamond plate, but you can use other material or have it powder coated. Having a non slick surface is very nice...
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:50 AM   #43
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The nice thing about the tube style is a wider step area. You can also add a top piece that bolts down to the tube. Blaine did this one in diamond plate, but you can use other material or have it powder coated. Having a non slick surface is very nice...
What a great idea! Mama's gonna love it. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:03 PM   #44
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What a great idea! Mama's gonna love it. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks
Your welcome, but I didn't think of it...but the wife does like it and I was able to justify the cost as being "only" for her safety...

I had put grip tape on the standard pieces and that helped, but this was much better. This gives you about 4" and the others were about 2"....
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:53 AM   #45
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What a great idea! Mama's gonna love it. Why didn't I think of that? Thanks
Since you have installed these sliders the instructions say you need a 17/32 but for the nutzerts I don't have one of those I have a 1/2" which I believe equals to about 16/32 will this work or how critical is it to get that 17/32 bit?
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:57 AM   #46
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Since you have installed these sliders the instructions say you need a 17/32 but for the nutzerts I don't have one of those I have a 1/2" which I believe equals to about 16/32 will this work or how critical is it to get that 17/32 bit?
It's critical enough that they say you need to go through the trouble of buying a 17/32 bit. It's certainly possible to use a 1/2" bit and try to wallow the hole a bit, but if you mess up you're kinda screwed. I wouldn't, and didn't take the risk.

It's worth spending a couple of bucks to get the right bit.
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Old 05-10-2013, 08:42 AM   #47
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I'm just gonna get the bit its 25 bucks at my local acme tools thanks for the extra push.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:36 AM   #48
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It's critical enough that they say you need to go through the trouble of buying a 17/32 bit. It's certainly possible to use a 1/2" bit and try to wallow the hole a bit, but if you mess up you're kinda screwed. I wouldn't, and didn't take the risk.

It's worth spending a couple of bucks to get the right bit.
I agree. Nutserts can be finicky and you only get one shot.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:42 AM   #49
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I've been beating on mine. 2 trips to Calico, 2 trips to Holcomb Creek and 1 to John Bull. I used them for a pivot and slid along them many times. Not one ding or rattle. A few scrapes under them but they are strong.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:54 AM   #50
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I've been beating on mine. 2 trips to Calico, 2 trips to Holcomb Creek and 1 to John Bull. I used them for a pivot and slid along them many times. Not one ding or rattle. A few scrapes under them but they are strong.
Well Jerry B. called it, he said they wouldn't be that pretty red for long. That's what touch-up is for.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:00 AM   #51
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Hey they look great on top.
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:04 PM   #52
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Well good news is sliders just arrived bad news is they forgot my hardware so atleast I can get the inside of the tub raptored now and get the sliders painted. Called Gerald he said he would have the hardware shipped out today so thanks Gerald atleast there making things right. hope everything fits up right once there painted lol.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:40 PM   #53
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Just wanna say great company Gerald just got back to me he's next day airing my hardware out do I can get these installed. I will be buying more from savvy there good to take care of you and these things mount beefy they aren't gonna move. There's allot of holes tip drill haha first ones the hardest right?!? lol
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:44 PM   #54
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Hey they look great on top.
Bet the tub does too. That's why we buy 'em.
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Well good news is sliders just arrived bad news is they forgot my hardware so atleast I can get the inside of the tub raptored now and get the sliders painted. Called Gerald he said he would have the hardware shipped out today so thanks Gerald atleast there making things right. hope everything fits up right once there painted lol.
You won't have any problems they are top quality. If you want a heads up on installation check out the end of my thread.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/marc...-221479-2.html
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Old 05-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #55
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Got a rough mock up without hardware. And got sliders painted, raptored. And the tub raptored. Attj my tube style is much different then yours they basically just took there normal step slider and welded a tube to it, either way it still is beefy I do question if it will hang me up worse then tube sliders where the tube angles up. I raptored the rockers in the Jeep too so there's an extra coating against rust and crap. Its been a very long 24 hours
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