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Old 03-30-2013, 05:29 PM   #1
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Rough Country Adjustable Track Bar

Hey guys, I have 2.5 inches of lift on my rig and I would like to install an adjustable track bar before my new set of tires go on. Rough country is the cheapest I've seen and I would like some opinions on this brand before I buy. I don't do any heavy rock crawling but it does go mudding from time to time. Most of its servicable life is on the road so will the Rough Country track bar be sufficient?

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Old 03-30-2013, 05:31 PM   #2
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I'm not a RC fan but for your stated uses, their track bar should hold up for you.

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Old 03-30-2013, 06:29 PM   #3
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JKS makes a very good track bar as well. Can't remember what I paid for it but I can't imagine it'd be that much more expensive.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:16 PM   #4
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I wanted the JKS but they were like 80 bucks more.
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:58 PM   #5
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Did you check out metalcloak? $159 front or rear
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Old 03-30-2013, 07:59 PM   #6
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I have a 2.5 lift to.went with the track bar with the frame add on and my flex is a ton better.no death wobble either.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:06 PM   #7
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What do you mean frame add on? I'm unfamiliar with this.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:14 PM   #8
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A lot of aftermarket track bars require a lot of bump stop to keep them from hitting the front diff. cover. I chose the JKS ($196) because it's one of the few that require only fairly short bump stops...

tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - JeepForum.com
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:15 PM   #9
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What do you mean frame add on? I'm unfamiliar with this.
Rc has a frame brace for the track bar.rc web site
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:40 PM   #10
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Rc has a frame brace for the track bar.rc web site
The bar im talking about doesnt mount with a balljoint at the frame.it has a braket the attaches to to frame and rotates alot better than the balljoint type.reseach reseach reseach.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:40 PM   #11
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What do you mean frame add on? I'm unfamiliar with this.
He probably means a bracket at the frame-end that drops that end of the track bar. You don't want anything that drops the frame-end of the track bar, installing that would mean you you'd have to replace your Pitman arm with a dropped Pitman arm.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:41 PM   #12
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The problem I had with an RC front track bar was the bar actually flexed when doing a dry steering test . Switching it to a JKS 126 which eliminated the slight wander I had because of the flexing . So much for good enough for just driving on the highway . What works good offroad usually has benefits on the road too when it comes to being strength related. RC is cheap for a reason which is nothing new .

RC did have a front track bar that did have a bracket mounted to the OE mount which didn't require a drop pitman.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #13
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Though I'm definitely no fan of Rough Country, I never dreamed their track bar would be so flimsy it would flex while testing the steering. That it can flex just means it is likely to bend offroad. So based on Gary2's experience, I'd avoid it & go with a stronger track bar like from Currie via Savvy or JKS.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by smashtj View Post
The bar im talking about doesnt mount with a balljoint at the frame.it has a braket the attaches to to frame and rotates alot better than the balljoint type.reseach reseach reseach.
He speaks of a clayton like drop bracket that converts the frame side joint to double sheer, the only problem with most of these is the extreme amount of bumpstop required. For anyone running short arms I don't think you'd really benefit from the added flex. A single sheer JJ like JKS or Currie won't max out with adjustable short arms.

Now to the OP, I have the rear RC trackbar and it sucks, my buddy has one and agrees as well. I'd really spend extra $100 or so and get a JKS or Currie bar. This is a critical steering/suspension component and it's worth the extra money
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:48 PM   #15
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I never dreamed the RC would be so flimsy it would flex while testing the steering. That it can flex just means it is likely to bend offroad. So based on Gary2's experience, I'd avoid it & go with a better quality track bar like from Currie via Savvy or JKS.
Ive had no issues with mine.but i do have small lift with 32 inch tires.not very aggresive offroad either.but i get were i want to go.or were everybody else is going.
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:00 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by MikalCarbine View Post

He speaks of a clayton like drop bracket that converts the frame side joint to double sheer, the only problem with most of these is the extreme amount of bumpstop required. For anyone running short arms I don't think you'd really benefit from the added flex. A single sheer JJ like JKS or Currie won't max out with adjustable short arms.

Now to the OP, I have the rear RC trackbar and it sucks, my buddy has one and agrees as well. I'd really spend extra $100 or so and get a JKS or Currie bar. This is a critical steering/suspension component and it's worth the extra money
I agree with the above.the main thing i noticed after installing mine was the lack of popping of the chassis when flexing.used to sound horrible over some obsticles.now its quit until the tires reach the fenders
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:15 PM   #17
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I can say this.the last time i went out i slide into a rut.a big one.on the pass side,though for sure front or rear track bars were toast.really hard side hit.hurt my shoulder.when i got to the man road alighnment was still good.and no popping noise from side to side.so i cant complain.
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Old 03-30-2013, 11:53 PM   #18
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My only complaint on the RC track bar, is that the tie rod end was shot in a little over a year. It's a $20 part, but still..... The track bar itself, has held up fine.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:07 AM   #19
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My only complaint on the RC track bar, is that the tie rod end was shot in a little over a year. It's a $20 part, but still..... The track bar itself, has held up fine.
Mine doesnt have the balljoint.thats why i got it.jonny joint at ax and replaceable bushing at thr chassis end
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:20 AM   #20
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Mine doesnt have the balljoint.thats why i got it.jonny joint at ax and replaceable bushing at thr chassis end
I've never seen a RC track bar with a Johnny Joint.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:10 AM   #21
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It replacing the track bar as easy as it looks? Is it really just unbolting the old one and bolting the new one in?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:36 AM   #22
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It replacing the track bar as easy as it looks? Is it really just unbolting the old one and bolting the new one in?
Yes
If the axle is off center, just removing it the body will want to shift.
Bolt the new one up and make adjustments from there.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:42 AM   #23
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Do I need a new drop pitman arm?
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Though I'm definitely no fan of Rough Country, I never dreamed their track bar would be so flimsy it would flex while testing the steering. That it can flex just means it is likely to bend offroad. So based on Gary2's experience, I'd avoid it & go with a stronger track bar like from Currie via Savvy or JKS.
I pushed my finger in tight between the track bar and the frame mount and I could feel it squeeae my finger as the steering wheel was turned back and forth . Track bars have to much effect on steering to have any unwanted movement in the ends or or a bar that can flex that easy. I could feel a difference on the state highway . Much less steering correction required. So far I have found RC to be on about the same level as Radio Shack . Every time I buy something thinking they may of changed I kick myself and either take it back or give it away.
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Old 03-31-2013, 08:58 AM   #25
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Do I need a new drop pitman arm?
Not recommended do to stresses put on the box/pump. that type of correction is not needed at lower lift heights. Just center the axle with a adjustable TB and you should be fine.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:25 AM   #26
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So to recap, it seems that the consensis is that RC sucks, adjustable trackbars are easy to install, and that drop pitman arms are not necessary. Are these the important points or is there anything else I should know before I buy?
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:38 AM   #27
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I had originally looked at the JKS track bars but was concerned they were overbuilt for my application as I don't do a tremendous amount of hard wheeling.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:39 AM   #28
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RC is on the cheaper side but I would not say garbage. I would advise a TB that is strong and will last a long time. Failure is the #1 cause for DW.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:46 AM   #29
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My Jeep shakes like a M'er F'er at around 70mph. I have a new push rod and shocks as well as my tires being recently balanced. I suspect that it may be from my axles being off center. My current track bars are stock on a 99 and could very well be worn out. I hope I see a difference. Honestly, I don't mind spending more on the JKS if it will make my ride safer. My fiance drives it a lot and I don't feel comfortable putting on any part that will make her less safe when she drives. I can stomach the extra money for the JKS parts if you guys feel that it is warranted. I put a lot of faith in your opinions. You all have successfully talked me out of various parts and mods in the past. The collective knowledge of this forum is astounding.
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Old 03-31-2013, 09:50 AM   #30
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My Jeep shakes like a M'er F'er at around 70mph. I have a new push rod and shocks as well as my tires being recently balanced. I suspect that it may be from my axles being off center. My current track bars are stock on a 99 and could very well be worn out. I hope I see a difference. Honestly, I don't mind spending more on the JKS if it will make my ride safer. My fiance drives it a lot and I don't feel comfortable putting on any part that will make her less safe when she drives. I can stomach the extra money for the JKS parts if you guys feel that it is warranted. I put a lot of faith in your opinions. You all have successfully talked me out of various parts and mods in the past. The collective knowledge of this forum is astounding.
Contact a forum vender for the best prices.

Shaking at speed can be a bunch of things. Almost sounds like a balance issue or bent wheel. Possible a u-joint axle/drive shaft too.

DW Or bumpsteer is set off over bumps and not speed related.

Good luck getting her fixed up.

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