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Old 01-28-2012, 02:14 PM   #1
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Royal purple

I was told by a jeep mechanic/builder that I should use royal purple motor oil rather then regular oil or even another brand of synthetic oil.

I have seen a you tube show were they have the oil in a little pan and run a bearing under load. Then show the bearing has less were with the royal purple. But i Have seen other such test with other oils and they claim there oil is better.

Is royal purple that good and is it worth the cost of about 50.00 for 6 qts of oil?

Thanks

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Old 01-28-2012, 02:19 PM   #2
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Royal Purple is an extremely good oil. I personally just use other brand synthetics ( money's tight) but if you have the cash, RP is well worth it.

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Old 01-28-2012, 02:23 PM   #3
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The 4.0L is not particular about brands of oil. I put in whatever dinosaur oil is on sale. Never had a problem in my TJ, my old YJ, or my mothers TJ.
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Old 01-28-2012, 02:28 PM   #4
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Royal Purple is a very good engine oil. So is Valvoline, Havoline, Castrol, Mobil, Mobil-1, Amsoil, Pennzoil, etc.

Royal Purple is nothing unusual aside from its unusually high cost. Its purple color is from nothing but a dye added for marketing purposes.
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Old 01-28-2012, 04:06 PM   #5
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I have been using RP in my wife's Jeep and my Dodge Ram for 3 years now and RP made a big difference in over performance in both vehicles. You can also go further between oil changes with RP and the RP filter. I have gone 11 months in between oil changes and the oil still looked good. Just to make sure the oil was still good I sent a sample out to have tested and the test came back with all good marks. I used to use Mobil 1 and I switched to RP when I got my truck, RP made the famous "Hemi tick" in my truck quieter then Mobil 1 which was put in there when I bought my truck.
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Old 01-28-2012, 05:58 PM   #6
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I've used Chevron for years, but the longest I ever keep a rig is about 15 years and 150,000 miles or so.
How long or how many miles do people keep their vehicles, so that expensive oils pay off?
Just curious, I've driven trucks with well over 600,000 miles that have never seen a designer oil.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:01 PM   #7
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I've ran mobil one in everything. Torture tested it in my dads car. 210k with mobil 1 and no engine work done.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jkaufman_95 View Post
I've ran mobil one in everything. Torture tested it in my dads car. 210k with mobil 1 and no engine work done.
I can say the same thing with a number of my engines that made it >200K miles on mineral-based engine oils like Valvoline.

Synthetic engine oils are not required to allow engines to last longer than that without problem. Both Mercedes Benz and Volvo used to run ads back in the 50's or early 60's touting customers whose engines made it past one million miles. And all engine oils back then on the store shelves were mineral based. Some seem to think that only engines running synthetics can make it that far.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:04 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
I can say the same thing with a number of my engines that all made it >200K miles on mineral-based engine oils like Valvoline.

Synthetic engine oils are not required to allow engines to last longer than that without problem.
Can you say you only did an oil change every 12k miles?
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:08 PM   #10
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The only benefit of expensive oils is that when you sell your car the buyer might actually believe it makes a difference.

Just use a good quality oil with the correct viscosity.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:11 PM   #11
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Can you say you only did an oil change every 12k miles?
Allow me to 'splain something about 12K oil changes.

Engines give off acids and combustion byproducts as a normal thing. The engine oil absorbs those acids and combustion byproducts. Synthetic and mineral-based engine oils absorb those contaminants at the same rate.

No conventional oil filter can filter out those types of contaminants.

So while the oil itself may last 12K miles, synthetic still gets just as dirty as mineral based oils do. So if you want to leave those contaminants in your engine oil that long, be my guest. That is the misleading advertising of synthetic oil producers... they don't tell you the whole story. Even if I would pay extra for synthetic motor oil, which I won't, I sure wouldn't run it for 12K miles. It still needs to be changed to get rid of those contaminants and at the same interval mineral based oil does... because both collect their contaminants at the same rate.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:12 PM   #12
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Have no favorite oil. Right now I have Chevron 10w30 in my Jeep. I usually buy a case of oil at a time, that way I don't have to buy any the next time. Of course, I remember when a case of oil meant 24 quarts, not 12. Am I dating myself now. Also remember when the oils came in metal cans and then the switch to waxed cardboard.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:13 PM   #13
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I change mine at 8k. But if that many contaminates are left behind how has my dads car ran this long and strong?
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:18 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by jkaufman_95 View Post
I change mine at 8k. But if that many contaminates are left behind how has my dads car ran this long and strong?
Both types of oil collect contaminants at the same rate so really, it's a moot point.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Both types of oil collect contaminants at the same rate so really, it's a moot point.
Can you post a link to data backing that up please?
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #16
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I've had 3 vehicles that were still going strong at 200K plus when I traded them off. I've got 190K on my work van right now ('06 E-150). All used dino oil, and the company van goes 5k miles between changes. None of the these had any oil related problems while I owned them, and only the work van has ever had the engine worked on besides routine maintenance (injector and throttle body). The wife's Monte has 170k on it now, same deal. I see no reason to change what obviously works, and costs less.

Synthetics might have some good points, but as good as it might be, there's no way I would ever trust a filter for as many miles as they recommend between changes. Even if the synthetic did the job for 8 or 10k, I can't see the filter doing the job for that long.
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:31 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jkaufman_95 View Post
Can you post a link to data backing that up please?
Think about it... as explained before, engines generate combustion byproducts which includes acids. It's a natural part of combustion. Part of an engine oil's job is to flush away those contaminants which are absorbed by the engine oil and stay there until the engine oil is changed.

The same with fine silicates and dirt which gets past the air filter which enters the engine via the air intake. The oil filter can only filter out down to about the 4 micron level, smaller particulates stay in the oil. Only changing the oil gets rid of the fine dirt and the acids/combustion byproducts that no conventional oil can filter out.

What type or quality of oil used makes no difference on how fast these naturally occuring byproducts and fine silicate/dirt particulates from the air intake build up.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Think about it... as explained before, engines generate combustion byproducts which includes acids. It's a natural part of combustion. Part of an engine oil's job is to flush away those contaminants which are absorbed by the engine oil and stay there until the engine oil is changed.

The same with fine silicates and dirt which gets past the air filter which enters the engine via the air intake. The oil filter can only filter out down to about the 4 micron level, smaller particulates stay in the oil. Only changing the oil gets rid of the fine dirt and the acids/combustion byproducts that no conventional oil can filter out.

What type or quality of oil used makes no difference on how fast these naturally occuring byproducts and fine silicate/dirt particulates from the air intake build up.
Right. I understand your saying and believe that, but I'll change my mind if you can back it up
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:32 PM   #19
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Jerry is spot on. Better oils have better additive packages to keep contaminants in suspension and correct ph etc... But combustion is combustion. The rate at which contaminants are created has nothing to do with the oil.
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Old 01-28-2012, 07:52 PM   #20
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The most important thing is to get those contaminants out. That means changing the oil and filter at appropriate intervals. I recommend ~3k on reg oil, and ~6k on synthetic. I've seen the insides of many, many, engines, and its easy to tell who's hit their intervals, and who's missed.
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Old 01-29-2012, 12:53 AM   #21
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The reason I prefer RP is because of the use of ester in the oil to help reduce friction and bond to the metal. The reduction in zinc in modern oils makes me want to protect my flat tappet lifters as much as possible. I also like that it is more resistant to thinning over its use duration compared to normal oil. Making it protect almost just as well as when I poured it in. Ill completely agree that dino and synthetic are about just as good at holding contaminants. But my number one concern is friction and thats why I choose synthetic. I have no problem and don't care that I change my oil just as often as I would with dino oil.
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:50 AM   #22
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Personally, with no scientific data to support it, I think the filter is more important. I use Mobil 1 oil and filters in all vehicles, but there are many good oils out there, and Mobil 1 has changed their products so I have to be careful to get the gold cap indicating full synthetic and 15k mile rating. I never go more than 7500 miles. That said, you can hold a Mobil 1 filter in one hand and a Fram in the other and feel the difference. There are many videos showing people cutting filters in half to reveal the amount of filtering media inside, so I know it's not just the metal casing weighing more.

The good news is Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, O'Reilly's all seem to take turns running a Mobil 1 special where you can buy 5 quarts and a filter for less than $40, making it well worth the $, imo.
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:22 AM   #23
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Right on!
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:34 AM   #24
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I use schaeffer's full synethic in all three of my vehicles. Cost is about $70-$75 a case. I change my oil at about 5000 miles or 6 months. I have a 95 Toyota PU with 144,000+ and have never had an engine issue, or driveline issue for that matter, with Schaeffer's in both. I did put a new clutch in her at 136,000, but that's operator not oil!
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #25
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I just use Mobile 1 full synth or full synth clean formula with a half quart of lucas, My last jeep hit 240k before I sold it (the engine still ran like a champ)
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:38 AM   #26
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I like the Schaeffers S9000 with "Moly", it's great stuff. We use that as our main synth at the shop.
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:40 AM   #27
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i remember the waxed cardboard cans but i don't date back to the metal ones. we run all our semi and straight trucks at work on conventional oil and getting well over the 100,000's of miles. all oil has to pass federal reguations. is some oil better than others, yes. but none of them are any better if you don't do regular oil changes. every 3,000 not needed but i wouldn't go past 5,000. i do 4,000 myself. if your doing alot of off roading in bad conditions you will want to change more often.
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:42 AM   #28
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Quote:
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The most important thing is to get those contaminants out. That means changing the oil and filter at appropriate intervals. I recommend ~3k on reg oil, and ~6k on synthetic. I've seen the insides of many, many, engines, and its easy to tell who's hit their intervals, and who's missed.
Speaking of getting contaminants out, someone started a thread on JF showing his magnetic drain plug he bought on ebay.

He had changed his oil after break-in of his new motor and of course had alot of metal particles.
The next time I change my oil I'm going to run a magnet through it and see what I pick up.
Here is the link to the plug if anyone wants one, it fits a 91-06.
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Jeep Wrangler 91-06 | eBay
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Old 01-29-2012, 10:56 AM   #29
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Think about it... as explained before, engines generate combustion byproducts which includes acids. It's a natural part of combustion. Part of an engine oil's job is to flush away those contaminants which are absorbed by the engine oil and stay there until the engine oil is changed.

The same with fine silicates and dirt which gets past the air filter which enters the engine via the air intake. The oil filter can only filter out down to about the 4 micron level, smaller particulates stay in the oil. Only changing the oil gets rid of the fine dirt and the acids/combustion byproducts that no conventional oil can filter out.

What type or quality of oil used makes no difference on how fast these naturally occuring byproducts and fine silicate/dirt particulates from the air intake build up.
Something to think about! Some (most-all ?) filters have a bypass when they get full so they don't stop oil flow when you don't change it soon enough. When does that occur? 5,000, 10,000 ,20,000 miles? I guess the better the filter the faster it would plug up and bypass. If your oil isn't dirty after 10-12k maybe it isn't cleaning your engine like it should be.
Everything I have gathered about dyno v synth oil is Synthetic breaks down at higher temps alowing it to lubricate longer than dyno oil. JM2c
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Old 01-29-2012, 11:56 AM   #30
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Syn does withstand higher temps.

But if your engine gets hot enough to brake down dino oil, you have major troubles - no kind of oil will help!

RP is expensive because purple dinosaurs were scarce.

Just add food coloring to any regular oil for the same bragging points.

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