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Old 08-05-2010, 07:10 PM   #1
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Rubicon Express vs Rock Krawler (which one!!!)

Alright, so I'm in a bit of a rut... and I don't even have the Jeep yet.

I'm contemplating getting an 04-06 rubicon, which I would like to lift and adding larger tires (33s or 35s).

I've been browsing and reading for quite some time now, and I've narrowed it down to two lift kits that are in my budget.

Both kits will be paired with OME shocks.

The cheaper option, a 4.5" Rubicon Express Super Flex kit:

RE7000 - TJ/LJ 4.5" SUPER-FLEX SYSTEM - Rubicon Express

This is the cheaper kit by about 250$ (which would cover the shocks). This kit seems nice in theory, but it's missing steering geometry correction (as far as I can tell, PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong).

The second more expensive option, a 3.5" Rock Krawler X Factor Plus kit:

Rock Krawler Catalog

This kit is obviously 1" lower (so I won't be fitting any 35s in there any time soon). It does come with steering geometry correction, and is supposed to be the strongest and best made (from what I gather on the internets )


One thing to keep in mind about this car is that it will be a daily driver, so I need good road manners both at slow and high speed.

So which one do you guys suggest, and why?


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Old 08-05-2010, 07:20 PM   #2
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The RE kit does not have a dropped Pitman arm because installing one without also installing a dropped upper trackbar mount (not included) would screw up the steering geometry and cause bump steer. A dropped Pitman arm is seldom needed on a TJ, should not usually be installed on a TJ, and is only required in very specific cases where the TJ is concerned. Older YJs, CJs, etc. generally always required a dropped Pitman arm but the TJ's improved steering geometry does not. ONLY install a dropped Pitman arm if also installing a track bar that has a dropped upper/driver's side mount to equal the amount of drop with the Pitman arm.

I don't know the RK kit but I do know that RE's suspensions are fine. I ran an RE 4.5" long-arm for years and other than the long-arms getting hung up on my local huge rocks, the suspension worked very well and rode well.

I'm now running a Currie 4" lift with all Currie Johnnie-Joint (short) control arms and together with the Currie Antirock up front and OME shocks, I now have a Jeep that does even better offroad than my RE long-arm suspension ever did.

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Old 08-05-2010, 07:29 PM   #3
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The biggest benifit to the RK is the rear truss. It also removes the rear track bar. It's a super stout suspension and works really well... had I not gotten a good deal on my RE kit, I would have went with the RK one you linked to.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:30 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The RE kit does not have a dropped Pitman arm because installing one without also installing a dropped upper trackbar mount (not included) would screw up the steering geometry and cause bump steer. A dropped Pitman arm is seldom needed on a TJ, should not usually be installed on a TJ, and is only required in very specific cases where the TJ is concerned. Older YJs, CJs, etc. generally always required a dropped Pitman arm but the TJ's improved steering geometry does not. ONLY install a dropped Pitman arm if also installing a track bar that has a dropped upper/driver's side mount to equal the amount of drop with the Pitman arm.
I don't get it? I run a RE 3.5 Superflx with the drop pitman arm the guy at 4wheelparts sold me(even say YJ on it) and I'm not sure if I get Bump steer on not. When flexing the wheels want to turn is that right? I've not noticed and I'm still running the stock drag link. Am I putting excessive pressure on the power steering or something?
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:39 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I'm now running a Currie 4" lift with all Currie Johnnie-Joint (short) control arms and together with the Currie Antirock up front and OME shocks, I now have a Jeep that does even better offroad than my RE long-arm suspension ever did.
Humm... what's Antirock, and how does it behave on the street?
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:45 PM   #6
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Humm... what's Antirock, and how does it behave on the street?
Antirock is currie's version of quick disconnects. Can be connected or disconnect at anytime without having the arms leave the axle.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Currie
The Currie Antirock® Sway Bar provides balanced performance of front and rear suspension for rugged off-road conditions. It gives the driver increased traction by balancing and distributing the weight over all four tires. The Antirock® Off-Road sway bar is designed to replace the stock Jeep sway bar.

The Sway Bar is made of SAE 4130 Heat-treated steel for ultimate strength. This is the same quality used in professional off-road competition. This kit includes all components, bushing, hardware and step by step instructions. It is positioned through the front cross member and attaches to the stock mounts on the axle housing on the Jeep TJ's and LJ's.

The Currie Antirock® Sway Bar does not need to be disconnected for off-road use.

Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This Sway Bar may be used on the street, however it will not provide the same performance as the stock setup
Seems like the stock one is better for the street. I should probably stay away from this kit since I'm on pavement 75% of the time.
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:52 PM   #8
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Seems like the stock one is better for the street. I should probably stay away from this kit since I'm on pavement 75% of the time.
Just get yourself a good set of swaybar disconnects. I'm running the JKS Quicker Disconnects and I'm very happy with them.

Sorry I don't have a better pic, but this one gives you the idea.....
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:55 PM   #9
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^^ Currie has another kit that replaces the Antirock with quick disconnects.

Thanks Jerry, I have a third option now!

Does this kit require a CV driveshaft replacement ?

TJ/LJ JOHNNY JOINT® 4" SUSPENSION SYSTEM W/ SWAY BAR DISCONNECTS
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:12 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by EdJonesJeeper View Post
I don't get it? I run a RE 3.5 Superflx with the drop pitman arm the guy at 4wheelparts sold me(even say YJ on it) and I'm not sure if I get Bump steer on not. When flexing the wheels want to turn is that right? I've not noticed and I'm still running the stock drag link. Am I putting excessive pressure on the power steering or something?
If you 4x4 your jeep you are putting too much stress on your factory steering system. The stock steering system is a weak point for the TJ, I run 33" tires and my steering was being bent out of shape every time I went out (tierods,drag link etc) and I don't run much rock. Most of the damage if not all came from off camber driving. I ended up buying the Currie Currectlync system and haven't had a problem since. This steering system allows you to run the stock knuckles,pitman arm and corrects the geometry back to stock. But at the same time beefs it up quite considerably. Before I installed this system I was running a drop pitman arm with my 4" lift and at every train track or bump in the road or trail the steering wheel would always jump or I had to fight it, since installing the Currie it doesn't hardly move when hitting bumps and Im never as tired as I used to be from fighting the wheel all day.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:18 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by EdJonesJeeper View Post
Antirock is currie's version of quick disconnects. Can be connected or disconnect at anytime without having the arms leave the axle.
No, the Antirock is not any kind of a quick disconnect system. It entirely replaces the OE antiswaybar and links but it stays connected and has a slightly reduced torsion bar rate so it helps the f/r suspension work better together offroad. It is never disconnected, but it can be adjusted for how stiff it is. I keep mine at its loosest setting which is fine for me even on the street. I've had two daily driver TJs and both had the Currie Antirock front antiswaybar system. I'd not enjoy going back to the factory system or disconnecting the factory system for offroading at all. The Antirock is superb offroad and works pretty well on road too.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:22 PM   #12
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Rock Krawler. Hands down in my opinion, for a DD and weekend warior, and for a trail rig trailer queen like mine.

I have had both the RE and now the RK suspension systems. I prefer the RK kit by far. It flexes better, is quieter, more stable, much more durable(I bent 1 RE track bar, and broke another, and also trashed 2 separate RE joints in less than a year), better and smoother weight transfer, high clearnce arms, removes the rear track bar(you have to pay extra for the RE to do that), and stiffens the rear axle housing with the cradle. Also raises the t-case skid 1", but so does the RE kit. The RE kit is all bolt on(easier for a home installation), and the RK is all weld on.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:24 PM   #13
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If you 4x4 your jeep you are putting too much stress on your factory steering system. The stock steering system is a weak point for the TJ, I run 33" tires and my steering was being bent out of shape every time I went out (tierods,drag link etc) and I don't run much rock. Most of the damage if not all came from off camber driving. I ended up buying the Currie Currectlync system and haven't had a problem since. This steering system allows you to run the stock knuckles,pitman arm and corrects the geometry back to stock. But at the same time beefs it up quite considerably. Before I installed this system I was running a drop pitman arm with my 4" lift and at every train track or bump in the road or trail the steering wheel would always jump or I had to fight it, since installing the Currie it doesn't hardly move when hitting bumps and Im never as tired as I used to be from fighting the wheel all day.
The Currie Currectlync HD steering system doesn't correct or change any steering geometry at all. No angles are changed, no geometry is changed, the angles are identical between Currie's Currectlink system and the OE steering system.

Currie's sole benefit over the OE system is that it is dramatically stronger (approx. 2X) with a much beefier tie rod, drag link, and tie rod ends. Currie's system has zero effect on bump steer since it doesn't change any angles. If bump steer is present from someone screwing up and installing either a dropped Pitman arm or dropped track bar mount, installing Currie's system won't change a thing.

That said, I wouldn't run any steering system except Currie's and I have run it in two different Jeeps. Just don't think it changes any angles or geometry because it does not.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #14
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Is the Currie Currectlync a must if I get their lift kit, what about a CV driveshaft
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:30 PM   #15
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I don't get it? I run a RE 3.5 Superflx with the drop pitman arm the guy at 4wheelparts sold me(even say YJ on it) and I'm not sure if I get Bump steer on not. When flexing the wheels want to turn is that right? I've not noticed and I'm still running the stock drag link. Am I putting excessive pressure on the power steering or something?
No, and the sales kids working the counters at 4WP barely know enough about Jeeps except to promise anything needed to get the sale.

I used to work for 4WP's parent company and I was in three of their stores all the time having them do work for my division. The counter guys were usually clueless about Jeeps and I was always having to help them unscrew-up things they had screwed up when selling parts to Jeepers. Few EVER got the fact that they should not be pushing dropped Pitman arms on newer Jeeps. Few in fact drive Jeeps, most of them just seem to drive big lifted trucks that others lifted for them.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:39 PM   #16
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^^ Currie has another kit that replaces the Antirock with quick disconnects.

Thanks Jerry, I have a third option now!

Does this kit require a CV driveshaft replacement ?

TJ/LJ JOHNNY JOINT® 4" SUSPENSION SYSTEM W/ SWAY BAR DISCONNECTS
Something is ether screwed up with their ad or something is confusing about it. Currie's Antirock antiswaybar system does not use quick disconnects. Quick disconnects can be used with the factory front antiswaybar but those quick disconnects are not for use with their Antirock.

For a 4" suspension lift, a SYE kit and CV driveshaft is strongly recommended.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:41 PM   #17
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Is the Currie Currectlync a must if I get their lift kit, what about a CV driveshaft
For 35" tires, I would definitely install Currie's Currectlync steering kit. The skinny OE tie rod is simply not up to being wheeled with 33" or bigger tires.
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Old 08-05-2010, 09:07 PM   #18
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Jerry, I posted the link to the kit with the quick disconnects, not the one that you have with the Antiroll.

Thanks for all your help!
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Old 10-19-2010, 01:18 AM   #19
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Sorry for the dig on this one but I have the entry level rock krawler kit on the tj. Not a bad system for the money. I haven't taken it out yet but soon when I can get wheels n tires. The only thing i recommend is a SYE kit for sure!
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Old 10-19-2010, 06:45 AM   #20
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Wait if I'm getting 37's on 5.5 clayton lift kit what steering should I use?
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:07 AM   #21
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Pretty sure if you get a Rubicon you don't need a SYE or a CV thing.... I'm sure Jerry or Lance or some other guru will verify or deny this.
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Old 10-19-2010, 07:32 AM   #22
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The Currie Currectlync HD steering system doesn't correct or change any steering geometry at all. No angles are changed, no geometry is changed, the angles are identical between Currie's Currectlink system and the OE steering system.

Currie's sole benefit over the OE system is that it is dramatically stronger (approx. 2X) with a much beefier tie rod, drag link, and tie rod ends. Currie's system has zero effect on bump steer since it doesn't change any angles. If bump steer is present from someone screwing up and installing either a dropped Pitman arm or dropped track bar mount, installing Currie's system won't change a thing.

That said, I wouldn't run any steering system except Currie's and I have run it in two different Jeeps. Just don't think it changes any angles or geometry because it does not.
It corrects the steering back to stock, From what it is when you add the pitman drop arm, that is exactly what I said. You REALLY need to learn how to properly read and take in what you are reading (it's called COMPREHENSION) before you reanswer what has already been said, you do this all the time. And when was the last time you took a real good side by side comparison of the stock and Currie system? Must have been never, the two systems are drastically different when it comes to geometry/operating angles.
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Old 10-19-2010, 02:06 PM   #23
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Pretty sure if you get a Rubicon you don't need a SYE or a CV thing.... I'm sure Jerry or Lance or some other guru will verify or deny this.
I believe you are correct. The Rubi has a fixed flange on the t-case output already, so no slip yoke. You might need a DS mod though, depending on the amount of lift you install.

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