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Old 06-22-2011, 03:59 PM   #1
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Rugged Ridge TJ steering system review, part 1.

Rugged Ridge steering review part 1.
The packaging, unboxing, and first over all impression:
Today I picked up my new Jeep parts from my works shipping and recieving warehouse, I had the parts shipped there because I ordered them from Amazon.com and I chose the cheapest shipping rate and I never know who's going to be the shipping carrier and what their policy or delivery time will be. Plus I don't want hundreds of dollars of parts just sitting on my front porch if I'm not there to recieve them.
1st off the box was bigger than I expected, it went from one side of my Jeep back seat area,

to the other side.

About 5 1/2 feet long.

This is the company I ordered it from through Amazon. I plan to give them a positive review on Amazons feedback, I had no problems at all with them and they had the lowest price plus shipping.

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Old 06-22-2011, 04:00 PM   #2
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My steering kit is for a 97-06 Jeep Wrangler.

The package arrived in good shape, and it was well secured with plenty of tape and some large staples.

I used my handy tape and staple removal tool to open everything up nice and tidy.

Here's a better look at my special package opening tool.

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Old 06-22-2011, 04:00 PM   #3
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Once opened, the packing material was nothing more than some wrinkled up brown paper... which explains why when I was carrying the box I could hear the parts inside clanking against eachother...

I removed the top layer of paper and there were a few smaller little boxes inside.

This one was slightly crushed.

There was also a CSE offroad.com catalog that was balled up and appeared to have been used as extra packaging material.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:01 PM   #4
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There were 3 of these plain brown paper wrapped items,

An instruction pamplet,

A long plain brown paper wrapped item,

and then another long piece of wrinkled up brown paper.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:01 PM   #5
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I started unrolling the long brown paper item, and the drag link from the pitman arm rolled out. It appeared to be in good shape, with no knicks or scratches from shipping.

After unrolling the rest of the way, the knuckle to knuckle tie rod was revealed, also looking to be in good shape, with no shipping damage.

As you can see in this pic, these are almost 1/4 inch thick drawn over mandrel tubes, with no seams to fail. They are also threaded to receive left or right handed tie rod ends.

One end of each rod has a barely etched groove cut into it so you can tell left from right threads. As you can see there isn't a flat spot ground into the rod for easily turning for adjustments and alignment. I'm a little dissapointed that these don't have the adjustment flat spots when most other kits of this style do, but I don't recall ever reading that they did in any of the research I did before purchasing this, so I don't feel like I was duped, I just should have payed more attention. What I do like though is that the rods are threaded really deep into the tubing itself and it's not a welded on threaded nut or bung like some other systems.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:02 PM   #6
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After unrolling the 3 brown paper wrapped parts I ended up with 3 tie rod ends, they all look the same, but 1 is for the drivers side knuckle end, 1 is for the passenger side and ties into the passenger side TRE that will have an extra hole in it to complete the inverted "T" style of this system, and the other is for the pitman arm.

Inside the slightly crushed box I found the passenger side knuckle TRE.

Inside the little brown box I found a steering stabilizer mounting kit. I was actually supprised that I recieved this because for the price I payed I actually thought I was getting the kit that didn't include the stabilizer mounting kit.

Here's the whole system layed out like I recieved it. After unboxing and checking out the quality of the product I'm happy with my purchase so far. Even though the packaging seems kinda cheap, everything made it to me in good condition. The only two things are I wish that there were adjustment flats for a wrench on the rods themselves, and I think it's funny how the included catalog was just balled up and crammed into the box instead of placed in neatly.

After I get everything installed and adjusted I'll do a review of the install and the performance of this system to let you know if I recomend it one way or the other... Right now I'm happy with my purchase, it seems to be well built and plenty strong, and for the price I paid I think it would be really hard to top it unless you built something yourself.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:11 PM   #7
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very nice, great photos... i have the same product in the corner of my garage.. i ran it for about 3 weeks and couldn't stand the sloppy steering any longer and put my stock stuff back on.. it does make an interesting conversation piece though.
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:21 PM   #8
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These were my thoughts also. I guess someone didn't read the reviews.
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:00 PM   #9
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I read plenty of reviews, and no matter which steering system I tried to find reviews on it was always the same, half of the people loving it and praising it, and half of the people hating it and condeming it. I checkout reviews for Curries Currectlync, the Rugged ridge system, the Crown set up, the Rock Krawler set up, Bullet proof steering, the ORO u-turn set up, and on and on and on...

With every set up there were lovers and haters, it made it super hard to make a choice... So ultimately I chose a set up that: 1. Uses parts I can get at a local auto parts store in case I brake something, 2. Is a lot stronger than stock but still bolts up in the stock location without having to drill out my knuckles. 3. I was aware of the "dead spot" that is supposed to accompany an inverted "T" style steering set up, and I also found out through a little research online that 2 or 3 washers, or a poly spacer of correct thickness on the TRE's that attach the knuckles and or on the axle end of the drag link will eliminate the "dead spot" 4. I plan on, and already have on order the AGR Rock Ram system that I will also be adding to my Jeep and reviewing at a later date.

My goal with each review that I post, is to try to give other people who might be looking for the same replacement parts that I was, some better information to make their decision than what was available to me when I had to make mine.
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Old 06-22-2011, 05:06 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Vector6 View Post
very nice, great photos... i have the same product in the corner of my garage.. i ran it for about 3 weeks and couldn't stand the sloppy steering any longer and put my stock stuff back on.. it does make an interesting conversation piece though.
Thanks for the input, I've heard about the sloppy steering issue. Right now I already have about 6 inches of "dead spot" at the steering wheel with the factory set up.

After I install the system "as shipped" I will post another review and determine if I get more slop, or less, than a worn out factory setup. And I also plan on doing both the washer mod to the steering, and the plastic spacer mod to it as well, and I'll post my thoughts on both mods and weather they really make a difference or not.

Ultimately I'm going to be adding the AGR Rock Ram system a piece at a time starting with the steering box, and I'll document what each piece does to help improve an old worn out (97) Jeep TJ steering set up.
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:45 PM   #11
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Did you check for play in the steering box yet? It is adjustable.

May help with all the play you are getting.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:23 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I read plenty of reviews, and no matter which steering system I tried to find reviews on it was always the same, half of the people loving it and praising it, and half of the people hating it and condeming it. I checkout reviews for Curries Currectlync, the Rugged ridge system, the Crown set up, the Rock Krawler set up, Bullet proof steering, the ORO u-turn set up, and on and on and on...
It's unfortunate that that there are some folks that comment on Currie that don't own it. It is very simply the best bang for the buck you can purchase and install with simple hand tools.

I'd love to see any of the reviews you found for the Currie that were unfavorable.

Quote:
With every set up there were lovers and haters, it made it super hard to make a choice... So ultimately I chose a set up that: 1. Uses parts I can get at a local auto parts store in case I brake something,
I hear that quite often about the Currie. It seems to bother some folks that they use TRE's that are proprietary. I could see anyone being bothered that did not carry a single spare part for their rig, but we all do or should, so I always wonder what's different about the Currie TRE's?

If you cut a sidewall, are you going to drive back to the parts store and get a spare tire or plug kit?


That's also generally a moot point anyhow. I've been wheeling with, using, installing, and been around folks on the trail with the Currie stuff since the first day it was released for sale many many years ago.

I could count easily 50+ sets I have personal continual contact with over the years and the vast majority of it is in or has been in use in JV on 35's.

In that time with that quantity, I've seen 1 broken draglink from the owner doing something very stupid that was replaced under warranty and a couple of worn TRE's that have also been partially or fully replaced by Currie.

The set on my wife's rig in now well over 50,000 miles on 35's and is as tight today as the day I put it on and anytime I let folks drive it, they always comment on how tight and responsive the steering is.

Quote:
2. Is a lot stronger than stock but still bolts up in the stock location without having to drill out my knuckles. 3. I was aware of the "dead spot" that is supposed to accompany an inverted "T" style steering set up, and I also found out through a little research online that 2 or 3 washers, or a poly spacer of correct thickness on the TRE's that attach the knuckles and or on the axle end of the drag link will eliminate the "dead spot"
You should study up some on SAI or Steering Axis Inclination and what it does. SAI means that because the upper balljoint is inboard of the lower, as you cycle the steering from lock to lock, one steering arm rises and the other lowers. That creates a huge amount of misalignment between the two sides.

Being involved in many steering conversations, I checked the difference the other day just to see how much it was. With the wheels straight ahead, I clamped a piece of steel angle to the top of one of the steering arms with the tie rod removed. Then I turn the steering knuckle to full lock and the end of the angle dropped 4" at the other side. That means there is a very large disparity in how parallel the tops of the steering arms are to each other when you cycle the steering which means anything you trap under the bodies of the TRE's to kill the dead spot can not be solid or you will tear something up.


Quote:
4. I plan on, and already have on order the AGR Rock Ram system that I will also be adding to my Jeep and reviewing at a later date.
A bit of advice when it comes to cylinder assist. Avoid the temptation to connect one end of it to the tie rod. Of all the places possible to connect, that is the least desireable from a performance standpoint.

Quote:
My goal with each review that I post, is to try to give other people who might be looking for the same replacement parts that I was, some better information to make their decision than what was available to me when I had to make mine.
Hopefully this helps.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:27 PM   #13
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Did you check for play in the steering box yet? It is adjustable.

May help with all the play you are getting.
That's a fair bit of internet lore that shouldn't be repeated. The jam nut and adjuster on top of the steering gear is for setting the lash on the sector gear and is not for removing play in the steering. The play comes from stuff that is worn and not from excessive gear lash.

If you tighten up the lash, all you are doing is prolonging the inevitable and that's a new steering gear or rebuild.
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Old 06-22-2011, 10:56 PM   #14
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All well said Blaine, just not what he wanted to hear I think. People wonder what the difference is between a $300 kit and a $100 kit. Well one works and the other doesn't plain and simple.
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:55 AM   #15
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I don't have time for a lengthy reply right now, but I did a lot of research before I made my purchase. I wasn't pointing at any one particular set up when I said I wanted something I could get parts for locally, Currie isn't the only set up that uses custom parts. I appreciate the input about the ball joint angles and how much up and down swing the tie rod goes through in it's side to side travel. I'm curious as to the reason I shouldn't mount the ram to one end of the tie rod, since that's how I did plan on using it. Thanks for the input.
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Old 06-23-2011, 09:34 AM   #16
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I don't have time for a lengthy reply right now, but I did a lot of research before I made my purchase. I wasn't pointing at any one particular set up when I said I wanted something I could get parts for locally, Currie isn't the only set up that uses custom parts. I appreciate the input about the ball joint angles and how much up and down swing the tie rod goes through in it's side to side travel. I'm curious as to the reason I shouldn't mount the ram to one end of the tie rod, since that's how I did plan on using it. Thanks for the input.
Just like the draglink causing tie rod roll when it mounts to the tie rod, the steering cylinder will have the same issue. The only spot it will be neutral and push on the tie rod straight is when the wheels point straight ahead.

Any other angle and due to the SAI, the ram will point upwards or downward and because the tabs on the clamp mount the end of the ram slightly inboard, you get the same tie rod roll to the limit of travel the TRE's have. Only now you are wasting travel in the steering ram.

There are very few folks that set steering assist cylinders up correctly and there are about a million examples of how to do it poorly.

If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.

For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
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Old 06-23-2011, 10:32 AM   #17
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Id like to kno how it turns out
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:27 PM   #18
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Just like the draglink causing tie rod roll when it mounts to the tie rod, the steering cylinder will have the same issue. The only spot it will be neutral and push on the tie rod straight is when the wheels point straight ahead.

Any other angle and due to the SAI, the ram will point upwards or downward and because the tabs on the clamp mount the end of the ram slightly inboard, you get the same tie rod roll to the limit of travel the TRE's have. Only now you are wasting travel in the steering ram.

There are very few folks that set steering assist cylinders up correctly and there are about a million examples of how to do it poorly.

If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.

For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
Thanks for the information about mounting the "hydraulic steering assist" properly, I'm currently doing research as to the best way to mount it. I appreciate any insight you can provide.

Refering to one of your other posts about using spacers to correct the tie rod roll I took a closer look at the differences in the ball joint angles and I see what you were refering to about how the tie rod will need to move up and down on each end as the steering cycles. If I put a spacer on the end of the drag link where it ties into the passenger side TRE to prevent or limit some of the roll, will that still alow the necessary movement to prevent binding as the steering cycles without exessive tie rod roll?
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:39 PM   #19
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If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.
I did extensive research on steering upgrades for over a month before I decided on the Rugged Ridge system. I don't expect it to stand up to a custom built set up, but for what I'm planning on using it for it will work and it was in my budget.

From everything I could find online there were people that were happy with some set ups and unhappy with others, there are positive and negatives to every steering solution out there. The bullet proof perfect set up is very possible to create, at a very steep price, but all of the rest, that are bolt on or really close to bolt on, will have some draw backs one way or the other.

Here are some quotes from various forums that I found with a quick search online. I'm not going to post who said each quote because I'm not sure about internet copyright law and I copy pasted their oppinions but I didn't want to drag them into anything. So if you read this and I'm using a quote that you would like removed please PM me and I'll remove it imediately.


ORO U-Turn:
"I've run the ORO U-Turn for about a year now. To do over, with the price, I think I'd go Currie HD.

The ORO U-Turn was not hard to setup. It seems very strong. They had some problems with premature tie rod end wear on the earlier drag links but seem to have mitigated it with a redesign. I have not experienced the problem as I traded my generation 2 drag link for the new generation 3 prior to install. The ORO service, I experienced, after the sale to upgrade the drag link was great. I spent a lot of time getting the steering "just right" and the alignment "dead on" and do not run a steering stabilizer now with the kit. The Jeep tracks very well. I do get some
tire squeal on some surfaces (parking lots) on tight, low speed turns that draw attention. Likely due to the ackerman on the design?"
"I recently replaced my ORO with a Currie and I’m much happier. The ORO is a good kit but it does take some work to get it dialed in correctly. My ORO was one of the first Gen III kits so I never had any issues with the draglink. The Currie is just as strong as the ORO. I also noticed when I installed the ORO I lost some of my turning radius. After switching to the Currie I gained all of it back. The Currie is hard to beat for the money."
"I've always answered up to this question as being 50/50 between the ORO and Currie. I actually have the ORO set up. I really like the feel of the
crossover steering and the fact that the TRE's it uses are easy to get your hands on and reasonably priced. Having said that, about 50% of the time I wish I would have went with Currie because it installs as a direct replacement, meaning my old steering linkages could be left at camp as a spare. I also would have flipped the driver's side TRE on top of the knuckle and gotten a good bit more ground clearance. The real reason I didn't go with Currie is the proprietary TREs they use, which are pricey and only made by them; there's no picking one up at Napa. I know mrblaine has a different outlook on the reasoning of passing on the Currie because of the TREs, and it is ok and very valid, I just choose not to carry two $50 TREs with me when I can easily get what I need at Napa for $25 if I should ever break one."
 
"Dont get it, I ran this on my jeep for about 6 months and had serious problems with death wobble. I ended up putting the stock system back on to stop the death wobble. I read somewhere that directly connecting the tires to one another instead of the Y scissor style stock steering is what was causing the problems. The Y style allows the tires to flex or pull slightly away from one another when going over bumps, directly connecting them does not and throws off the rotational mass by pulling both tires and hence starting death wobble.

I ended up just giving it away cause i didnt feel right selling it knowing the problems i had with it. In hindsight i should have looked into getting a refund but i deployed shortly after i took it off and figured it had been too much time so seek a refund by the time I returned

I have since gone with the Currie Correctlynk steering and have had zero death wobble. Its a very stought unit, the pictures dont do it justice. I havent compared measurements but it looks just as thick as the ORO"
Currie Currectlync:
 
"I run the Currie setup, too. While it is nice and beefy, it's definately not the end-all, be-all solution. I'm running around 7" of lift, and the drag link/tie rod junction joint hits the sway bar mount on the passengers side when turning to the right, and it's damned near impossible to keep an alignment on it. Also, since it keeps with the stock design, toe changes quite a bit when the suspension flexes due to the extreme angle of the drag link.

One of these days I'm going to be sick enough of it to get off my ass and build my own traditional inverted "T" steering using the Chevy 1/2 ton TRE's & DOM tubing. Until then, I'm dealing with it."
 
"First of all I just want to make it clear that I am not bashing Currie at all, I love their products.
However, I intalled their Currectlync a few months back and I recently started noticing some drivabilty problems. When I investigated a little I noticed that the tie-rod end up on the pitman arm has noticable up and down movement within the socket.
It's disturbing because I haven't been wheelin with it yet and the tie-rod end is obviously shot.
The only thing that I have done was flex it out to check my bumpstop lengths.
What I'm thinking is that the oversized tie-rod end doesn't have as much movement as the smaller unit, and when I flexed the suspension out it maxed out the
travel on the tie-rod and tried to pull the ball out of the socket and now it is loose."
"Wow. I noticed this on mine too. I got my system last week and only has 50 miles or so on it. Guess I'll call Currie and see whats up."
"i did the currie set up about 6 yrs ago and havent looked back since!"

"...Oh, BTW in one of the threads someone asked if anyone had had any problems with the Currie set up. I bent mine first trip out in my trail rig. When I called Currie all they had to say was "that shouldn't have happened" and offered no further support. So I'm not a fan of Currie, mostly because of of their "customer no-service" in this instance. "
"I'm with you on this one. I had a TRE go bad after less than 5k miles and maybe 6 relatively mild wheeling trips. I called Currie and they said I probably put too much grease in there and offered to sell me a replacement for $50. "
 
 
 
 
 
Rugged Ridge:
 
"I'm running the RR steering, no problems at all, one year so far."
This person replaced his Currie set up with a Rugged Ridge set up and was happy with it.
http://www.myxj.net/blog/173
 
"Well after testing the steering not on just 1 outing but 2 I have to say it holds it own when it comes to strength on the rocks and tight trails. The steering felt very positive and I had a peice of mine that I got some thick tubing under there thats not going to bend as easy as the stock one. I also noticed my turning radius seems to be a little tighter than before. In those tight canyon washes at Truckheaven the steering and my powersteering pump got a work out if it was going to fail it would probably be there. But there are are a few small issues that do need to be addressed : First off there is a small bit of roll on the tierod when turning left too right but hardly noticeable when on the road. It has about the same as stock steering setup so it really not an issue. I did put some of those poly spacers that tightened it up a bit. When the suspension is colapsed and extended there is feedback in the wheel to correct. I would say it would get better if I used a drop pitman arm but I really rather stick with the stock length one. The tierod did barely touch my front diff cover but it wont be any kind of problem I am sure. Overall its a better than stock solution for alot less money than most setups out there and you really cant go wrong buying this set up."
 
"I figure I will give my insight on the Rugged Ridge steering. I had it on my zj at 4.5 inches for about 4 months with no drop pitman arm and it ate up the boot on at the pitman arm. I also had really bad tie rod roll so I got the JCR spacers. I ended up removing it and selling it and replacing it with currie set up."
"its a decent setup for the cost, the only complaint i have about mine is the tie rod rolls over when steering from side to side giving u a big dead spot in the steering wheel, and just in case anyone wants to comment yes mine is installed correctly and everything is tight as a virgins a$$ "
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Old 06-23-2011, 03:45 PM   #20
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Id like to kno how it turns out
I will update this post with part 2 after I have it installed, which will hopefully be this weekend depending on the weather.

And I will give an honest and straight forward oppinion of how I feel about it good bad or ugly.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:30 PM   #21
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Thanks for the information about mounting the "hydraulic steering assist" properly, I'm currently doing research as to the best way to mount it. I appreciate any insight you can provide.
The best way is to take it directly to the steering knuckle, second best way is to the draglink if the components can handle the load. Worst is the tie rod.

Quote:
Refering to one of your other posts about using spacers to correct the tie rod roll I took a closer look at the differences in the ball joint angles and I see what you were refering to about how the tie rod will need to move up and down on each end as the steering cycles. If I put a spacer on the end of the drag link where it ties into the passenger side TRE to prevent or limit some of the roll, will that still alow the necessary movement to prevent binding as the steering cycles without exessive tie rod roll?
Since you now understand what the SAI causes, now you can extrapolate that knowledge into understanding about what spacers do. The only way to stop the roll is to put a hard spacer between the body of the TRE and the top of the steering arm. But, now you see what will happen. Something has to give as the steering turns. Anything you put in there that gives will also let the tie rod roll or have movement. Any movement equals a dead spot on center.

Also, I build steering, lots of custom steering. You might have seen some of my work on the Rock Yacht that was on the cover of Crawl awhile back or in another issue where I set up the steering on the Yellow Unlimited that belongs to one of the Editors. As such, I help out my buddies from time to time with their steering. One of them has a TJ with the WJ conversion which has a knuckle to knuckle tie rod with the assist cylinder attached to it. One of the issues he's dealing with is the tie rod roll so he asked me to slow it down.

I used washers first in a 1/4" thickness that I cut from a resilient truck mudflap and then 2 of them under each tie rod end body. If I used 2 of them under each one, the steering was in such a bind that you could not turn it with the steering wheel with the engine off and the axle on jackstands. If I used one, there was still play and the tie rod rolled. If I used one on one side and two on the other, it was still binding.

I put one on each side, called it good because it was better and my buddy is happier but it is by no means fixed or ideal.
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:21 AM   #22
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This one is the Rock Yacht isn't it ?
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:16 AM   #23
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squeal on some surfaces (parking lots) on tight, low speed turns that draw attention. Likely due to the ackerman on the design?"

My stock steering does this. What is it caused by?
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Old 06-24-2011, 03:50 AM   #24
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The best way is to take it directly to the steering knuckle, second best way is to the draglink if the components can handle the load. Worst is the tie rod.
Thanks for the input, I had already thought about getting an aftermarket knuckle on one side to attach the steering assist to and I might just do it sometime as a future upgrade. My funds are completely depleted at the moment though. Right now I've got 2 options of how to mount the assist without having to do major fab work:

1st option, mount to where the original steering stabilizer mounts and the other end to the drag link.

2nd option, mount to axle tube or diff cover on one end and the other end to tie rod.

If I understand correctly the better option would be the stabilizer/drag link mounting?
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:36 AM   #25
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Thanks for the input, I had already thought about getting an aftermarket knuckle on one side to attach the steering assist to and I might just do it sometime as a future upgrade. My funds are completely depleted at the moment though. Right now I've got 2 options of how to mount the assist without having to do major fab work:

1st option, mount to where the original steering stabilizer mounts and the other end to the drag link.
We will have a kit available within a week or two that will have all the parts needed to do this as a straight bolt in option. You won't be able to readily bolt in a normal assist cylinder. The cylinder needs to be customized to shorten it's overall compressed length so that it will fit between the stabilizer and draglink threaded adjuster when turned to the right.

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2nd option, mount to axle tube or diff cover on one end and the other end to tie rod.

If I understand correctly the better option would be the stabilizer/drag link mounting?
You could go to the tie rod on the Inverted Y, but for the same reasons the stabilizer is to the draglink, you will run into interference issues if you try to attach it to the tie rod, not to mention you will roll the draglink.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:37 AM   #26
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This one is the Rock Yacht isn't it ?
Yep, that's the last one I did where I attached the cylinder to the tie rod. Never again.
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:06 PM   #27
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We will have a kit available within a week or two that will have all the parts needed to do this as a straight bolt in option. You won't be able to readily bolt in a normal assist cylinder. The cylinder needs to be customized to shorten it's overall compressed length so that it will fit between the stabilizer and draglink threaded adjuster when turned to the right.
I have already purchased the AGR kit. I was looking at my steering set up yesterday and there really isn't much room to mount the assist cylinder unless I want to start chopping up the track bar and stabilizer brackets and maybe even my sway bar mounts as well to free up some room...
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Old 06-24-2011, 04:11 PM   #28
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Yep, that's the last one I did where I attached the cylinder to the tie rod. Never again.
When you say that the assist attached to the tie rod causes the tie rod to roll, does that mean there will still be a dead spot in the steering?

Also in one of your previous posts you mentioned that you used washers that you sourced from mudflaps... did you cut them out of the rubber of the flap or did the flaps have 1/4 inch washers that you repurposed? After you installed one on each end how much of a dead spot was left? And did you try using one on the drag link to tie rod connection?

Thanks for your help.
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Old 06-24-2011, 05:26 PM   #29
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For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
For the record, it's funny that you poke fun at me for using a similar term that you used yourself in your "Everyone is a critic" post after building the Rock Yacht.

"Yep, you nailed it. I've bent one too many ram shafts by bumping the tie rod into rocks to not put make one and install it."

So now it's my turn to poke fun, for the record, a ram shaft is... "insert about a million off color jokes here"

But for real, you did a really nice job on that build and I'd love to know half of the stuff you've forgotten over the years
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:35 PM   #30
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For the record, it's funny that you poke fun at me for using a similar term that you used yourself in your "Everyone is a critic" post after building the Rock Yacht.

"Yep, you nailed it. I've bent one too many ram shafts by bumping the tie rod into rocks to not put make one and install it."

So now it's my turn to poke fun, for the record, a ram shaft is... "insert about a million off color jokes here"

But for real, you did a really nice job on that build and I'd love to know half of the stuff you've forgotten over the years

Only fools stagnate in their knowledge and stick to ignorance through obstinance and stubborness. After I made those posts, I got the pleasure of spending some time discussing the cylinder assist with the owner of PSC in his motorhome at the KOH race. I mentioned "ram" assist and he gently corrected me and I've made it a point to no longer be ignorant.

I was wrong then and now try to be better and having used "ram" for so many years, I still find myself typing and correcting it, but at least I'm trying to learn.

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