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Old 04-26-2013, 11:51 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I tweaked/torqued the splines on my rear locked Dana 44's OE axle shafts so badly with 35" tires I had to replace them, I replaced them with Superior Axle's alloy shafts with no further problems.

My locked Dana 30's passenger-side shaft snapped with 35" tires. [Edit: I think I misread your comment... I think maybe you were saying a Dana 30 will hold up fine to being locked with 35" tires with alloy shafts when you said "nice shafts". If so, I agree. ]

The below pic was taken during the repair right after I removed my busted front axle shaft while on Sledgehammer in JV.

So I wouldn't be so quick to claim that our D30/D44 axle shafts hold up "just fine" to being locked with 35" tires.
Yep, I was referring to the front Dana 30

I suppose you could break them front or back but it would take some abuse. Well, jv counts!

The OP could always buy alloy and keep stock spares. I guess it depends on where he goes and how he wheels.

Jerry, I made it through calico with my Dana 35 and it decided to blow up coming home from the bank ironically. I guess what I'm getting at and echoing what you stated is that anything is possible.

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For sharts and gigs.

That doesn't show the 2" chunk missing from the pinion gear either...

Edit: nice gen 1 mtr's ;D

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Old 04-26-2013, 04:35 PM   #32
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You guys got me drooling over here with all the pictures of your rigs lol i got alot of work to do.

I did some looking around today and couldn't find a rear TJ D44 anywhere, so I'm just gonna jump on the 8.8, I got a buddy that can do all the welding for me for free, all I gotta do is help him cut some trees down and haul some brush off for him lol, guess it dont hurt to know people.

Also, who all here went the LCOG way? I mean I understand why, but but doesn't the clearance suffer? I have thought about going this way and going with some metalcloak fenders, and 3in lift instead of 4in.

So I need to go with 4.56 gears? Why not 4.88? Sorry probably a stupid question lol I know nothing about gear ratios.

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Old 04-26-2013, 04:51 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by jordorunway View Post
You guys got me drooling over here with all the pictures of your rigs lol i got alot of work to do.

I did some looking around today and couldn't find a rear TJ D44 anywhere, so I'm just gonna jump on the 8.8, I got a buddy that can do all the welding for me for free, all I gotta do is help him cut some trees down and haul some brush off for him lol, guess it dont hurt to know people.

Also, who all here went the LCOG way? I mean I understand why, but but doesn't the clearance suffer? I have thought about going this way and going with some metalcloak fenders, and 3in lift instead of 4in.

So I need to go with 4.56 gears? Why not 4.88? Sorry probably a stupid question lol I know nothing about gear ratios.
Though my rig gets way off camber all the time, I am not a fan of focusing on LCOG over ground clearance. I never wish I had a lower COG when I go out but I often wish I had just a little more ground clearance.

For the decision between 4.56 and 4.88 or any other ratio for 35" tires, it depends on your engine size & transmission type. We know your engine is the 4.0L so for the 5-speed, 4.88 would be ideal but you'd want 4.56 if you had the 3-speed 32RH automatic transmission. By the way, I looked at your Profile & your 4.0L engine is an inline six-cylinder engine, not a V6. The V6 didn't come out until 2007.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:10 PM   #34
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Also, who all here went the LCOG way? I mean I understand why, but but doesn't the clearance suffer? I have thought about going this way and going with some metalcloak fenders, and 3in lift instead of 4in.
Do your homework before deciding. People overuse the "LCOG" term way too much. You'll see guys slap a small lift and some tires on and claim they have a LCOG rig.

I'm with Jerry on that; we get off camber a good bit offroad, and even so I would never trade the ground clearance.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:37 PM   #35
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Though my rig gets way off camber all the time, I am not a fan of focusing on LCOG over ground clearance. I never wish I had a lower COG when I go out but I often wish I had just a little more ground clearance.

For the decision between 4.56 and 4.88 or any other ratio for 35" tires, it depends on your engine size & transmission type. We know your engine is the 4.0L so for the 5-speed, 4.88 would be ideal but you'd want 4.56 if you had the 3-speed 32RH automatic transmission. By the way, I looked at your Profile & your 4.0L engine is an inline six-cylinder engine, not a V6. The V6 didn't come out until 2007.
That's what I thought as far as the LCOG, cause I got to thinking about the places I ride after considering it and I knew I couldn't sacrifice the clearance.

Ok so 4.56 it is, and yea lol I know it's not a V6 I found that out not to long after making that jeep profile :P just never changed it. When I bought it I just assumed it was a V6, I knew nothing about jeeps when I bought mine lol. Good thing this forum is here, I wouldn't know any of what I know now lol.

So if I were to go with 4.88 with my 3-speed auto, would that have negative effects? What would differ from the 4.56? Sorry for all the dumb questions I'm just trying to learn a little.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:56 PM   #36
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[QUOTE=Jerry Bransford;3686997]Though my rig gets way off camber all the time, I am not a fan of focusing on LCOG over ground clearance. I never wish I had a lower COG when I go out but I often wish I had just a little more ground clearance.

x2 I agree whole heartedly with Jerry here.

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even with all this lift I still scrap

Don't forget that if you do a lot of lift you will need the SYE and new rear CV drive shaft. You may also need the 1" MML to decrease the angle of the rear drive shaft so it doesn't bind unless you turn the axel up.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:04 PM   #37
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That's what I thought as far as the LCOG, cause I got to thinking about the places I ride after considering it and I knew I couldn't sacrifice the clearance.

Ok so 4.56 it is, and yea lol I know it's not a V6 I found that out not to long after making that jeep profile :P just never changed it. When I bought it I just assumed it was a V6, I knew nothing about jeeps when I bought mine lol. Good thing this forum is here, I wouldn't know any of what I know now lol.

So if I were to go with 4.88 with my 3-speed auto, would that have negative effects? What would differ from the 4.56? Sorry for all the dumb questions I'm just trying to learn a little.
Your highway RPMs would be excessively high with 35" tires. 4.56, and your 3-speed automatic would be ideal.

I had 35" tires and a 5-speed manual when I installed 4.88 gearing which was perfect. Then I did an upgrade/conversion to the 32RH 3-speed auto tranny like you have & even though it was awesome otherwise, my highway RPMs became higher than I liked due to the 4.88 gearing I kept. Instead of cruising at 65-70 mph like I did when I had the 5-speed, I ended up cruising at 55-60 mph after installing the 32RH to hold the RPMs down a bit.
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:24 PM   #38
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How do you like the 4.88? Assuming you could go back knowing what you know now, would you have gone 5.13 or 5.38 instead of 4.88?
Knowing what I do now, yeah I would go for some 5.38's. But only due to my trans overdrive of .69. Don't get me wrong the 4.88 gears work real good. But it could be better. But if I had the 32 trans then 4.56 all the way.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:13 PM   #39
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So what kind of brakes is everyone running with their 35"s? I saw that Vancos were the brake of choice and I looked them up and their pretty expensive. Then I seen somewhere black magic brakes would do it, can anyone shed some light on this?
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:22 PM   #40
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Blaine will probably warn you that just the Black Magic Brakes alone probably won't be enough to be safe on 35s. Many people get by without a true upgrade like the Vanco setup so you can certainly do so. Just realize what your stopping capabilities are. It seems to vary wildly between TJs; some have OK braking with 35s and stock hardware, whereas others struggle with 33s.

The Vanco is a very nice setup, but unfortunately it's out of stock for the time being. When that comes back in stock that will be one of the best bangs for your buck in terms of a true upgrade.

Personally, I wish I was running something like the Vanco setup. I'm running Black Magic Brakes now, and while it's a good improvement I'm not as comfortable with my brakes as I wish I was. It's most annoying offroad when going down very steep hills.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:28 PM   #41
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I think that the BMB will stop a tj on 35s but for ljs they suggest vancos.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:35 PM   #42
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Pretty much any thread where it's been discussed the consensus is 35s and up need something like the Vanco. It's been repeated over and over again on JeepForum. Over here people are even more reluctant to spend money, so something like the Vanco setup is rarely talked about other than saying "it's expensive".

Just one example of many directly from the horses mouth:

Quote:
I'm not comfortable recommending them for 35's much less heavy 36" Swampers. He needs the Vanco kit at a minimum.
If you have an LJ, they like you to call them so they can explain to you just how important something like the Vanco is for them.

I can vouch personally that yes the BMBs will stop a TJ on 35s, but it's far from ideal. I don't drive it on the road nearly as much now (as in pretty much only to the trail) so I haven't upgraded the brakes yet, but it's on my short list.

Regardless it's kind of pointless for the time being until they're back in stock.

But like I said YMMV. Some claim to have excellent brakes even up to 35s with stock stuff, whereas others have issues; every TJ is different in this regard. Be your own judge; just make sure you're safe for the sake of everyone around you.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:32 PM   #43
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Blaine will probably warn you that just the Black Magic Brakes alone probably won't be enough to be safe on 35s. Many people get by without a true upgrade like the Vanco setup so you can certainly do so. Just realize what your stopping capabilities are. It seems to vary wildly between TJs; some have OK braking with 35s and stock hardware, whereas others struggle with 33s.

The Vanco is a very nice setup, but unfortunately it's out of stock for the time being. When that comes back in stock that will be one of the best bangs for your buck in terms of a true upgrade.

Personally, I wish I was running something like the Vanco setup. I'm running Black Magic Brakes now, and while it's a good improvement I'm not as comfortable with my brakes as I wish I was. It's most annoying offroad when going down very steep hills.
I'm running the Vanco big brake kit, I'm really happy with its stopping power.
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:43 PM   #44
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I run Vanco brakes on 33s. The Vanco brakes are definitely one of the best things I've done to my Jeep. You just can't believe the difference in braking ability until you drive one....you'll be peeling your face off the windshield and prying rice burners from your rear bumper.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:20 PM   #45
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What kind of vehicle should I be looking for to steal a d44 out of?
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:23 PM   #46
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What kind of vehicle should I be looking for to steal a d44 out of?
Another TJ
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Old 04-27-2013, 02:16 AM   #47
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What kind of vehicle should I be looking for to steal a d44 out of?
If you can weld you could snag one out of an xj and use it. You'd have to weld new brackets.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:52 AM   #48
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If you can weld you could snag one out of an xj and use it. You'd have to weld new brackets.
If you do that, wouldn't you be better off just getting a 8.8? Since its stronger, along with giving you rear disc breaks?
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:43 AM   #49
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If you can weld you could snag one out of an xj and use it. You'd have to weld new brackets.
Isn't the d44a from an xj not as strong?
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:50 AM   #50
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Isn't the d44a from an ZJ or WJ not as strong?
no, they are not. early model XJ's had real D44's however...2.75" x 0.25" tubes IIRC, vs the TJ D44 2.5" x 0.25" tubes. It's just about as much work as a D60, Ford 8.8, etc...cut off old brackets and weld on new TJ brackets.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:47 PM   #51
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I take it the Vancos are in pretty high demand since their out of stock. So Vancos for my front d30 but what kind of brakes should I go with as far as the 8.8? Can't get Vancos for it can you? I didn't see any listed on their website.

Also, I'm looking at the metalcloak 3.5in lift, does anyone have any experience with their lift? I'm mostly wondering how good the springs are, cause eventually I'm gonna do a new front bumper and a winch and new rear bumper with tire carrier, I don't want the springs to sag. I was also looking at the currie 4in lift.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:26 PM   #52
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I take it the Vancos are in pretty high demand since their out of stock. So Vancos for my front d30 but what kind of brakes should I go with as far as the 8.8? Can't get Vancos for it can you? I didn't see any listed on their website.

Also, I'm looking at the metalcloak 3.5in lift, does anyone have any experience with their lift? I'm mostly wondering how good the springs are, cause eventually I'm gonna do a new front bumper and a winch and new rear bumper with tire carrier, I don't want the springs to sag. I was also looking at the currie 4in lift.
All springs will sag with a bumper and winch. What do you expect?

Metalcloak makes a great control arm bushing called the duroflex, I run them. They're great.

For the 8.8 use whatever brakes are already on the axle.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:35 PM   #53
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For the D44 vs D44a question

Dana 44A - Aluminum Center Section Dana 44
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:41 PM   #54
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4.88 is awesome with the 5-speed manual and 35" tires as I used to have in my previous TJ, but 4.88 positively sucks big time with the 4-speed automatic like he has & I now have. With the 4-speed automatic, 5.13 is better but I'd go to 5.38 if I was choosing a new gear ratio.

As said above, 4.56 is ideal if you have 35" tires and the 3-speed automatic used through 2002.
So with my 42rle 4spd auto w/od it would be ideal to run 5.13?
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Old 04-27-2013, 05:45 PM   #55
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It's simple the Dana 44a is an aluminum housing and is considerably weaker. The axle also has practically no aftermarket following.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #56
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I take it the Vancos are in pretty high demand since their out of stock. So Vancos for my front d30 but what kind of brakes should I go with as far as the 8.8? Can't get Vancos for it can you? I didn't see any listed on their website.

Also, I'm looking at the metalcloak 3.5in lift, does anyone have any experience with their lift? I'm mostly wondering how good the springs are, cause eventually I'm gonna do a new front bumper and a winch and new rear bumper with tire carrier, I don't want the springs to sag. I was also looking at the currie 4in lift.
From what I've read, the Vanco BBK is out of stock because its going through a design change. Supposedly they are designing new knuckles, or something to that effect, so that they aren't reliant on old cores anymore. The new knuckles are also supposedly compatible with RCV shafts. Hopefully the new ones are out soon.

The majority of braking comes from the front, so no need for any upgrades in the rear. Good OEM stuff is plenty.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:09 PM   #57
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This is what I sit at with a 4" lift and 32" tires
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Old 04-28-2013, 12:26 AM   #58
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This the way I sit... I am all about LCOG. This thing climbs and wheels better that most! I would highly recommend sticking with 3 or 4 inches for 35s. Quick run down of what I'm running.

2" coils
1"BL (to make room for the Atlas)
Rubicon Express long arm
TeraFlex high steer
TeraFlex HD DOM Track Bar
D44 rear w/arb and 4:56- chromoly shafts
D30 front w/arb and 4:56- chromoly shafts
Atlas2 4:3:1
10" travel shocks for more down travel on lower lift.

This set up WORKS! Go 3" springs for sure!

Also, no problem at all out of my 44/30 set up and I'm not very easy on it.
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:08 AM   #59
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8.8 and better brakes

Running
Chevy 4.8 Vortec avg MPG 16
Chevy 4L60E trans
231 TC
35" General Grabbers
stock D30 and D35 4.10 gears

Im mid way through a 8.8 swap and working on brakes next. And BTW its brakes that caused me to swap not the D35. I kept thinking well I'll just drive till it breaks, but after two Turkey Bay trips and 10k miles its still doing fine,and I do hill high speed jumps, and hill climbs LOL

but the breaks on the other hand. Sometimes it Really does not want to stop and going down a certain hill at TB I was thinking if I had too there was no way it would stop.

What do you guys recommend on the Master Cly and porp valve?
I have read several different approaches
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:05 AM   #60
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The rear brakes have such a small role in normal braking that upgrading them won't give you a noticeable braking performance improvement. The rear brake's percentage of overall braking is limited to 20-25% of the total braking force by the brake proportioning valve to prevent them from locking up. The rear brakes would otherwise lock up too easily under hard braking because the majority of the Jeep's weight gets transferred to the front brakes. The front brakes provide in reality 75-80% of the braking.

So if you want better braking in the forward direction, upgrade the front brakes. The rear brakes (even drums) are already able to provide more braking (remember the proportioning valve), so upgrading the rear brake really won't help braking.

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