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Old 05-04-2011, 10:37 PM   #1
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Rusty's Tie rod...

Anyone use it? Is it any good? My old stock one looks like a pretzel...well it did until I straightened it the best I could.
$100 for a HD replacement seems pretty damn good.

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Old 05-04-2011, 10:50 PM   #2
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Rusty's stuff is good stuff although I have not used that exact part.

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Old 05-05-2011, 09:34 AM   #3
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have you looked into doin a grand cherokee tie rod mod? thats the route i think im goin to go in the next few weeks.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:38 AM   #4
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I almost bought that, but I read a couple things about it being hard to align and that the TREs wore out pretty quick. What I decided to go with was a tie rod replacement by Iron Rock Offroad. It beefs up the rod, and uses stock TREs. If I ever have an issue with breaking a TRE, I may drill out the ends and tap them for some larger TREs.
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:11 PM   #5
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I upgraded to the Currie heavy duty tie rod and it is a direct replacement and bolts right in. The kit comes complete with all parts. Not cheap though.
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Old 05-05-2011, 12:33 PM   #6
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is it really an upgrade if you're still using the stock ends?

I don't think so.

IMHO, go with a ZJ V8 tie-rod or Currie steering.
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:12 PM   #7
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The Rustys doesn't use stock ends. That why it seems like a good deal. I would post a pic but Im using my phone.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:07 PM   #8
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ZJ upgrade is ~$110 total using all MOOG parts. Solid bar tie rod & larger heavy duty (for a wrangler) TRE's

Cost examples, all from Amazon (free shipping, no tax)
Moog DS1312 Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $58.75
Moog ES2079S Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $21.06
Moog ES3096L Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $31.72
Total= $111.53

I know the description is all the same on their site, but you have a standard TRE, an adjusting sleave, and another TRE that is also the tie rod part.
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Old 05-05-2011, 02:46 PM   #9
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Heres the rusty's ($99) with MOOG ends in comparison to the stock TJ tie rod.
Looks like the ZJ upgrade is about the same cost. Wonder which one is better for the money....




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Old 05-05-2011, 02:49 PM   #10
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The reason I like the ZJ tie rod is because of the bend in it. It creates more clearance between the tie rod and the diff cover, as well as the trac bar upper mount. The Rusty's bar will be approx 3/8" closer to everything else. I don't have a measurement of the ZJ tie rod right now, but I think it's close to an inch.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:03 PM   #11
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with the zj . its a solid rod opposed to the hollow rods of the others, also using this setup , a liftetine warranty is in effect . if you flip the zj rod and use and tie rod OTK adapter you get a higher tie rod and the bend matches the factory contour perfect
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:14 PM   #12
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I put that one on last year after bending the stock rod. Works great and held up well so far. Just remember to get the alignment done afterwards

First pic is the rustys rod next to the stock one. The next is the rod on the jeep, also bought their steering stabilizer while i was at it.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bink98xcab View Post
with the zj . its a solid rod opposed to the hollow rods of the others, also using this setup , a liftetine warranty is in effect . if you flip the zj rod and use and tie rod OTK adapter you get a higher tie rod and the bend matches the factory contour perfect
Would you be able to flip it? Because of the bend they have... I'd have to hold one up and see I guess.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:50 PM   #14
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Don't you have to buy the drag link as well? I have the parts from Amazon in my wish list and it was around $250. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwm1986 View Post
ZJ upgrade is ~$110 total using all MOOG parts. Solid bar tie rod & larger heavy duty (for a wrangler) TRE's

Cost examples, all from Amazon (free shipping, no tax)
Moog DS1312 Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $58.75
Moog ES2079S Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $21.06
Moog ES3096L Steering Center Link Tie Rod End - $31.72
Total= $111.53

I know the description is all the same on their site, but you have a standard TRE, an adjusting sleave, and another TRE that is also the tie rod part.
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:53 PM   #15
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The Rusty's looks pretty sturdy. Do they sell the drag link as well? Where are the Rusty's parts made? Thank you.

QUOTE=Mike_3303;1222085]I put that one on last year after bending the stock rod. Works great and held up well so far. Just remember to get the alignment done afterwards

First pic is the rustys rod next to the stock one. The next is the rod on the jeep, also bought their steering stabilizer while i was at it.[/QUOTE]
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Old 05-05-2011, 08:55 PM   #16
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What about the Crown HD Tie rod kit? It's a pretty good deal for around $160.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:07 PM   #17
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So if I missed it correct me. The zj tie rod is a direct swap into the Tj? Also the drag link is the same on the tj and zj? No additional parts are needed for the swap unless I was to flip the zj tierod to make it higher? Just tryin to get things straight in my head Haha .
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:16 PM   #18
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A solid rod is weaker than a tube...remember the old days when the body builders would bend steel rods around their neck? They were 1/2 solid and bend easy. What I would do is get a stick of 1.5x.25 wall DOM and make my own for about 60 bucks.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:36 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
A solid rod is weaker than a tube...remember the old days when the body builders would bend steel rods around their neck? They were 1/2 solid and bend easy. What I would do is get a stick of 1.5x.25 wall DOM and make my own for about 60 bucks.
The rods they bend are just mild steel also, not heat treated hardened steel. The point of the ZJ upgrade is just that it is cheap and easy bolt on - and you have to agree, it is still way stronger then the stock TJ tie rod that you can grab and bow with ease.
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
What I would do is get a stick of 1.5x.25 wall DOM and make my own for about 60 bucks.
I have contemplated this as well.

I'll assume I need 2 of these..along with rod ends
Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Rod End Hardware*::*Synergy Suspension Threaded Weld-In Tube Adapter - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Pit Bu
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Old 05-05-2011, 10:37 PM   #21
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rustys tie rod conversion is good stuff.it changes the stock y type steering set up to one pivot point.I think it uses stock tie rod ends for easy replacement.beefy tube for the price!
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:59 AM   #22
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Yes you will need a bung like that....I would do that and drill a straight through hole in the knuckle and use a heim.
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:49 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KBR97 View Post
The Rustys doesn't use stock ends. That why it seems like a good deal. I would post a pic but Im using my phone.
on their website they list:
MOOG part # ES3095R
MOOG part # ES3094L

Those are the stock tie-rod end PN's.
MOOG-ES3094L Outer Tie Rod End - Driver Side - 4.0L Made By MOOG
Looks at the pictures, the TRE's are stock.

Which is why I asked - if it uses the stock tie-rod ends, with just a beefy bar in between them, is it really an upgrade?

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Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
A solid rod is weaker than a tube...
This is a very misleading statement because its flat wrong. All other things being equal, solid is stronger than tube. As wall thickness of a tube increases, the strength increases...until you reach a solid rod. The benefit of tube over solid is weight. As you approach the center of the cross section of a rod (a circle), the stress the material takes approaches zero at center. This is why eliminating the center section of a solid rod, and making it a tube does not greatly affect its strength, but greatly reduces the weight. But solid is always stronger, all other things being equal. Thats high school physics, nothing fancy.
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Old 05-06-2011, 11:54 AM   #24
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Solid is NOT always stronger....the ONLY way a solid is stronger is if said rod in both cases is made of the same material and same diameter. But, if the hollow rod is made of the same material and weighs the same, it is stronger. There's your college physics for ya bud
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
Solid is NOT always stronger....the ONLY way a solid is stronger is if said rod in both cases is made of the same material and same diameter. But, if the hollow rod is made of the same material and weighs the same, it is stronger. There's your college physics for ya bud
What is this magical material you speak of that weighs exactly the same whether its a tube of diameter X or a solid rod of diameter X, both of length Y?

Like I said solid is always stronger, all things being equal. You said tube is stronger, which is completely wrong.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:27 PM   #26
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if they weigh the same, the tube is stronger because in order for the tube to weigh the same it will have to be larger diameter.

And physics aside, I have seen WAY more solid tierods bend than DOM ones....could be the junk material they are cast from I dunno.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:41 PM   #27
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if they weigh the same, the tube is stronger because in order for the tube to weigh the same it will have to be larger diameter.
But earlier you said tube is always stronger? Now you're saying its stronger if you increase the diameter. By how much?

Thank you for proving my point...solid is stronger than tube - always - all other things being equal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
And physics aside, I have seen WAY more solid tierods bend than DOM ones....could be the junk material they are cast from I dunno.
DOM is stronger due to manufacturering processes, even if it is the same steel used in a solid rod of the same diameter. At that point, it's basically a different material, and the solid isn't the same as the tube.

Btw, I've had really good luck with my solid ZJ V8 tie-rod. And I know several others have had good luck with theirs, up to 35" tires, with some pretty serious wheeling. My point being, I wouldn't prefer a Rusty's tie-rod with stock ends over a V8 ZJ tie-rod with 22mm ends. And the V8 ZJ tie-rod runs about $60-70 from the local parts store.
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:49 PM   #28
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In case I decide to go with the ZJ, what years am I looking at?
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Old 05-06-2011, 12:56 PM   #29
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All things cannot be equal.

The diameter can, but if the weight was equal the tube would be have to be larger. How much you say? Whatever the weight differential is.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:49 PM   #30
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In case I decide to go with the ZJ, what years am I looking at?
i think 95-98 v8's , and alot of guys that do this mod also use a curry drag link to compliment the sturdy zj tie rod. with the otk adapter you get nearly a perfect end on the zj tie rod, since you are mounting it 180degrees(passenger side on drivers etc.) from how it comes on the zj.

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