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Old 02-20-2013, 12:39 AM   #1
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Savvy Sliders, more details and/or pics?

Ok, I'm in the market for sliders, and from what I've been reading the savvy sliders seem to be the ticket. My issue is that unfortunately the pictures on the savvy site aren't very good.

My understanding is there are two different versions available. (plus a tube version that isn't a standard option) Step and non-step versions seem to be the current offerings. The site only really shows one angle of one of the style's. And they offer two different versions of the metal chromo and stainless, but don't really mention the benefits of each.

I've seen the recent threads that show what appear to be a the step version. But I haven't really seen many pics of the non-step. I am trying to figure out which way I would go.

I'd love to see some more pictures of both styles from Savvy. Also in looking at their site it appears I would need to buy the nutsert tool separately? Is that the case?

Is Savvy a supporter of this forum? Just curious if they offer a member discount or anything?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

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Old 02-20-2013, 03:15 AM   #2
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Here is a link to another thread on here, it has alot of pictures of the savvy sliders and plus a little bit of info on them and the "two different versions" your referring to.

>> http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/sliders-220157.html <<

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Old 02-20-2013, 07:21 AM   #3
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:59 AM   #4
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Gerald usually offers a 10% discount to forum members... at least he was for control arms...
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:32 AM   #5
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The nutsert tool should come with the sliders, at least mine did. If no "tool" is included, it's really just a bolt and nut, so you can easily and cheaply put together your own tool.

There is much more information over on JeepForum about Savvy's sliders; here is a good start:

Google

As for the regular vs step sliders, Gerald told me they are eventually phasing out the regular sliders since they've found the step ones to be stronger. You can still get the regular sliders, but apparently they have been discontinued unless things have changed.

I highly recommend Savvy's sliders, they are very nice.

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Old 02-20-2013, 07:52 PM   #6
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Hi I have the tube ones on my Jeep. I wanted a bit of a step. Our price is 450. He has some of the tube ones on the shelf, at least he did when I bought mine. I love em. 3.16 aluminum and then 3.16 steel with another 3/16 aluminum plate inside which sanwiches your tub. The nutsert driver came with it.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #7
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I've been running Savvy's rocker guards (aka sliders) on two different TJs and love them. They are basically in two pieces, the aluminum plate that bolts to the tub, and the outside rub rail that bolts to the aluminum plate. The rub rails are available in steel or stainless steel and are replaceable separately. If you are not going to paint them as I did not on my previous TJ, I'd go for the stainless version simply because it won't rust. The standard steel version of the rub rails will rust without paint, powder coating, or a lot of care.

The aluminum plate has a reinforcing inside part that bolts onto the inside of the tub so the tub's sheet metal is sandwiched between them... which makes it a LOT stronger. I have bent steel rocker guards which wrinkled the tub underneath, but I haven't managed to bend my Savvys.

Here are a few photos from my installation of them in raw unpainted/unfinished condtion on my previous TJ...
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:26 PM   #8
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Sorry forgot the pic's
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:31 PM   #9
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Those rocker guards better not be that pretty after you're done wheeling next month at Calico Gunner... maybe you should just take a BFH to them now and get it over with.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
Hi I have the tube ones on my Jeep. I wanted a bit of a step. Our price is 450. He has some of the tube ones on the shelf, at least he did when I bought mine. I love em. 3.16 aluminum and then 3.16 steel with another 3/16 aluminum plate inside which sanwiches your tub. The nutsert driver came with it.
After seeing yours on another thread, I called Gerald at Savvy inquired about those sliders on Monday. I wanted to get rid of my nerf bars but still had to have a step for wifey. Well he still has some available and mine are on their way. Incidentally he told me that he originally designed those cause his wife didn't like getting in his Jeep with the 2 1/4" wide step of the other style. I don't even have to remove my nerfs. After my son found out I bought sliders he had those nerfs off mine and on his jeep in about 2hrs
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:03 PM   #11
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Here's some up close shots of the step slider.









Here is my nutsert tool that I used. It's just a bolt, nut, two washers, and a ballbearing washer type thing. Just make sure with whatever nutsert tool you get you use grade 8 bolts. There is a lot of nutserts to set and the bolts don't last very long.

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Old 02-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #12
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Gerald told me nutsert tool would come with the kit.
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:19 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Those rocker guards better not be that pretty after you're done wheeling next month at Calico Gunner... maybe you should just take a BFH to them now and get it over with.
I haven't had to scrape them yet but I have touch up paint for the coming carnage. Although I did have them at the last calico I went to.

One of the things the tube sliders have is a place to put a step and holes to thru bolt them.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:00 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:18 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:26 PM   #16
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x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
I thought about that, but then thought about my luck in general and figured if I did I would need to remove it in the future for some reason or another. Things tend to work like that for me lol
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:44 PM   #17
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Well if you can thats what im gonna do. I figured if i put them on there their never coming off lol.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
The internal brace is super easy to take off. You can just remove the nuts, take out the bolt and still leave the slider on. When I get my tub done this is what I am going to do. Reaming the holes out is easy.

As far as the nutserts, just make sure they are SET good. I was a dummy and didn't crush one good enough. It spun so I had to cut the bolt head off (couldn't pull it out and the slider was mounted), and drill out the nutsert breaking 2 drillbits in the process.

Quote:
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x2! Or can you just line-x over the internal brace?
You don't want to do that.
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Old 02-20-2013, 11:59 PM   #19
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You don't want to do that.
How come? Just wondering, im still new to everything, sorry for the dumb question lol.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:06 AM   #20
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How come? Just wondering, im still new to everything, sorry for the dumb question lol.
Well,

1. The backing plate is super easy to take off.

2. If you Line-X over it and need to take it off you will have to cut it away, and then you will have a spot that will start peeling.

3. If you change the slider base, (which was designed that way so it was "disposable"" you will have to deal with trying to remove a nut that is Line-xed on there. I've done it before and it's a PITA when it's in a thick spot Refer to number 2 for the start of a peeling spot. That area is usually 1/8" thick.

4. Doing it right takes literally an extra 3 minutes .

When I spray mine, I plan to remove everything maybe even the rollbar.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:08 AM   #21
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You would line-x the bolt threads.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:10 AM   #22
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You would line-x the bolt threads.
If you put grease the threads it's really no biggie to spray over them.
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Old 02-21-2013, 12:20 AM   #23
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Sorry forgot the pic's
What does that set-up weigh? I picked up a front bumper from Gerald a few weeks ago and I'm looking to get the Goat to drop a few more pounds.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:36 AM   #24
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Here is my nutsert tool that I used. It's just a bolt, nut, two washers, and a ballbearing washer type thing. Just make sure with whatever nutsert tool you get you use grade 8 bolts. There is a lot of nutserts to set and the bolts don't last very long.
^^^^^ Quoting Moabrubi ^^^^^
I see the bolt, nut, and two washers. Guessing you thread the nutsert on the end, insert into drilled hole, hold bolt while tightening nut, and washers keep from marring finish. When nutsert is set loosen nut and remove bolt. What is the ball bearing type washer and what's it's purpose?
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:54 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DNKC View Post
Thanks for all the pics and info guys! I appreciate it! I'm sold on the step version. A little worried about the nutserts but I'll give it a go.

I tried calling but got a msg saying they were out of town till feb 9th, and the best way to contact would be via email. So I sent one to them, guessing they just haven't updated the recording.

Is the only benefit then to the SS being able to leave them raw? I am planning to paint mine.

Only other issue I see is with my build process. I am planning to line-x my tub interior at some point, so if I don't get it done before hand, looks like I will have to take them back off to do so due to the internal brace. Kind of a PITA but oh well.
First time I called I got the same message. Then I realized they are on Pacific time and when I called an hour later I got Gerald. Had to double check my calendar though cause I was sure that the date was Feb 12 lol.
Gerald told me the steel are thicker than the ss. Don't quote me on the numbers but I think he said 3/16 for steel and 1/8 for ss.
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Old 02-21-2013, 06:38 AM   #26
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I see the bolt, nut, and two washers. Guessing you thread the nutsert on the end, insert into drilled hole, hold bolt while tightening nut, and washers keep from marring finish. When nutsert is set loosen nut and remove bolt. What is the ball bearing type washer and what's it's purpose?
Close, but you tighten the bolt and hold the nut steady; the nut is actually either too big for the bolt so that it doesn't engage the threads, or you can drill out a nut to achieve the same thing. If you have never set nutserts before read this:

Nutsert for Transfer Case Removal and Install - JeepForum.com

It talks about nutserts for the t-case skid, but the concept is the same. It should help you understand what you're trying to accomplish. The washer(s) simply let the nut slip easier so that you can tighten the bolt and set the nutsert. You can add some grease or anti-seize to help things move easier if needed.

Setting the nutserts is very easy, once you do the first one they go fast. Your arm can get tired by the time you've done the last one, but that's about it.

Also, make sure you have the proper sized drill bit for the nutserts. It's a 17/32" drill bit and can be difficult to find at your local hardware store; I couldn't find one locally so I bought one from Amazon ahead of time.

Here's a good install thread if you need some guidance:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/sa...nstall-971817/

Make sure you pre-load them properly when installing; that's the most important part.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:33 AM   #27
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geiman: Outstanding Sir! Thanks a ton for that info.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #28
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What does that set-up weigh? I picked up a front bumper from Gerald a few weeks ago and I'm looking to get the Goat to drop a few more pounds.
My ups shipping weight is 65lbs.
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Old 02-22-2013, 10:29 PM   #29
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Tried calling twice today. Left a message, no call back. Never got a response from my email the other day either.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:36 PM   #30
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Tried calling twice today. Left a message, no call back. Never got a response from my email the other day either.
Geralds a busy guy... getting a hold of him is tough sometimes.

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