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Old 03-14-2013, 09:06 AM   #31
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I know, we're skipping around here......
Should I- run down the street and purchase the Atsco from Autozone and install it right now, order the Lares 4 bolt unit, or order the standard Lares box....?

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Old 03-14-2013, 01:47 PM   #32
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Gonna give the Atsco a try.

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Old 03-14-2013, 01:55 PM   #33
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2000 solar yellow 4.0 sport 3" BDS, 1.25" JKS body lift, 1" Zone motor lift, JKS quicker disconnects, 33x10.5 BFG KM2 on black american racing wheels. D44 rear.

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Old 03-14-2013, 03:53 PM   #34
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I figured I didn't have a lot to lose trying this box since I can warranty it here in town. I'm willing to spend the 30 minutes it takes to swap it out if it doesn't work out. So far, so good.
Stay tuned while I get rid of the rattling heim joint sway bar links once and for all, and remedy the slightly loose track bar..
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:54 PM   #35
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So much for buying shocks this month..
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:56 PM   #36
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For?
just book marking this thread so when I get ready to buy my track bars.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:02 PM   #37
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just book marking this thread so when I get ready to buy my track bars.
This would also be a great time to get rid of that crappy steering linkage you have.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:22 PM   #38
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This would also be a great time to get rid of that crappy steering linkage you have.
Yeah... That keeps floating around in my head.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:14 PM   #39
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Yeah... That keeps floating around in my head.
You need to look through the links UnlimitedLJ04 posted. Your current steering will probably determine your bump stops due to interference with the track bar.
Besides the fact that you already have tie rod/ drag link clearance issues as it is.
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:27 AM   #40
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marking

How do you do book marking?
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Old 03-15-2013, 12:36 PM   #41
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How do you do book marking?
Not really "book marking" just subscribing to the thread so I can find it later
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:26 PM   #42
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For?
I figured I didn't have a lot to lose trying this box since I can warranty it here in town. I'm willing to spend the 30 minutes it takes to swap it out if it doesn't work out. So far, so good.
Stay tuned while I get rid of the rattling heim joint sway bar links once and for all, and remedy the slightly loose track bar..
So what is the replacement for the heims?
I like my JKS Quickers, but I'd really like an Antirock (not gonna happen this year).
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:04 PM   #43
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So what is the replacement for the heims?
I like my JKS Quickers, but I'd really like an Antirock (not gonna happen this year).
Whoops, sorry Lynn, I didn't see your post.
I put some JKS Quickers' on it. JKS track bar is installed as well and looks good. I haven't pulled the springs to double check clearance at full bump yet, I'll do that when my new shocks get here when I re-set my bump stops.
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Old 03-22-2013, 06:48 PM   #44
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Patrick, evaluate carefully before you make the swap. Drilling out the frame-side tapered balljoint mount is a ONE-WAY mod, no going back.

For mild lift (~2") there is NOTHING that will clear better than the stock trackbar, and the axle offset is small enough you will hardly notice. The difference in the built-in bow to clear diffs is substantial when laying the stock and after-market adjustables side by side. The stocker is also a solid steel bar so strength is not an issue.
RE-1600 will drill out to 5/8"
JKS126 will drill out to 9/16"
Curry will drill out to 5/8"

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Maybe I should ask this- Am I going to gain anything by going to a non- stock track bar? Mine has some play at the frame side spherical joint. I already welded a reinforcement plate on the axle bracket and drilled a new hole to center my axle. I'm running 2" BDS springs and a 3/4" spacer. I don't intend to go higher because I can clear 33's as is, and I won't go bigger.
Is it a waste of money, for my particular application, since the adjustability isn't really a concern?
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Old 03-22-2013, 07:21 PM   #45
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Patrick, evaluate carefully before you make the swap. Drilling out the frame-side tapered balljoint mount is a ONE-WAY mod, no going back.

For mild lift (~2") there is NOTHING that will clear better than the stock trackbar, and the axle offset is small enough you will hardly notice. The difference in the built-in bow to clear diffs is substantial when laying the stock and after-market adjustables side by side. The stocker is also a solid steel bar so strength is not an issue.
RE-1600 will drill out to 5/8"
JKS126 will drill out to 9/16"
Curry will drill out to 5/8"

"The more you know"
As I said, it's already installed. And as I said, I had already plated and re-drilled the axle bracket to center the axle. The 5/8" offset was very noticeable.
The 9/16" drill hardly removed any material. There's more than enough depth left in the taper to install a stock track bar back on it if I ever chose to. Even if there wasn't, I could always drill it out and weld a tapered insert in there.
I researched enough to find that the JKS will have more than enough clearance. With the ZJ tie rod, 1.5" bump stops are all that's required, and I need at least 2" to keep the tires out of the fenders anyhow. So, "I already knew".
But thanks.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:42 PM   #46
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As I said, it's already installed. And as I said, I had already plated and re-drilled the axle bracket to center the axle. The 5/8" offset was very noticeable.
The 9/16" drill hardly removed any material. There's more than enough depth left in the taper to install a stock track bar back on it if I ever chose to. Even if there wasn't, I could always drill it out and weld a tapered insert in there.
I researched enough to find that the JKS will have more than enough clearance. With the ZJ tie rod, 1.5" bump stops are all that's required, and I need at least 2" to keep the tires out of the fenders anyhow. So, "I already knew".
But thanks.
Plus, if you ever do decide to go back to stock, get in touch. I have tapered inserts with a shoulder on them and the correct tooling to install them for welding afterwards. I do NOT sell them to anyone but highly experienced fabricators that can follow simple instructions, so I rarely sell them, but I use a bunch of them myself.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:54 PM   #47
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Plus, if you ever do decide to go back to stock, get in touch. I have tapered inserts with a shoulder on them and the correct tooling to install them for welding afterwards. I do NOT sell them to anyone but highly experienced fabricators that can follow simple instructions, so I rarely sell them, but I use a bunch of them myself.
I appreciate it. Like I said, there was so little actually removed when i drilled it, I wouldn't hesitate to install a stock tapered stud back in it, maybe with a GR8 flat washer.

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