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Old 07-12-2010, 05:43 PM   #1
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Should I buy this 01 TJ?

New member and future Jeep owner here.

I've been shopping for a TJ for about two months. I am using this as a second car (toy) in the summer and a snow truck for the winter.

I am going to have a look at what I feel to be a good value Jeep tomorrow. Unfortunately I don't have all that much info, but here's what I know.

2001 wrangler
4''lift
(4) 35'' /12.50 thornbird tires
black soft top
4.0
ac
5 speed trans
83,000 miles
6''fender flares
New exhaust
Full doors
Stock gears and axles
$8000 (He listed it at $7,000 first and then re-listed for more when he realized it was probably worth more)

I know the stock axles won't support heavy offroading with the 35s, but I don't plan on doing it much anywhere since there's not many places near me anyway. The previous owner broke the drive-shaft (not surprising) so it has been replaced.

If it drives well and mechanically seems sound, is it a good buy? He said if I cut the wheel hard it rubs, but that's probably normal with the setup, right? He said he wont take the original 7k, so what would be a good price?









Thanks everyone

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Old 07-12-2010, 06:10 PM   #2
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Offer 7.5k for it as long as the underside is not banged up. IMO you would either need to re-gear $$$ for the 35's or buy 33's. As far as the tire rub you can fix that with a few washers on the steering stops. Otherwise not a bad deal.

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Old 07-12-2010, 06:20 PM   #3
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well if i were you then of course check things like the oil and look under the undercarriage for significant rust/corrosion ect. make sure to drive it and see how smooth it drives at higher speeds make sure theres no vibs in the front and try to see the angle of the driveshaft, with 4" lift it will be moved significantly unless he fixed it when the lift was done of when he got the other driveshaft
for the price i think its a great it a deal if its mechanically sound
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:54 PM   #4
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Thanks for the quick feedback.

One thing to note is if I like what I see tomorrow, I will hopefully take it to Jeep Friday for a $99 pre-purchase inspection to make sure it is as clean as he says. Hopefully in that time someone else doesn't give a full price offer.
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Old 07-12-2010, 06:57 PM   #5
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sounds like a good deal i'd go down to 33s tho but you'll still have to regear... the 3.07 stock gears suck even with 31s thats the problem i have right now
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:48 PM   #6
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I don't want to bring you down here but I would not do the deal .....unless you intend to put more money (maybe a lot more) into it.
I'm not a fan of somebody's mod'd up rig unless I have first hand knowledge of exactly what was done and if it was done right. I question the sellers priorities and attention to detail or at least, his big picture view of building a reliable rig. His combination of mods is a time bomb with stock gears and axles ....since he did not do something that important right, I strongly suspect there are more things he didn't do quite right....if you want it be very careful or have a fat wallet.
Good luck.. be patient...do your homework and you'll find a good rig.
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:03 PM   #7
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Thornbirds are crap. If you get it, get some new 33s. As said before 35s are too big for a 4" lift.
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:13 PM   #8
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Thornbirds are crap. If you get it, get some new 33s. As said before 35s are too big for a 4" lift.
100% agreement
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Old 07-12-2010, 08:43 PM   #9
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I agree with what you guys are thinking in a lot of ways. This seller only had the truck a few months (40 year old with too many toys) but from how he described the last owner, it sounded like a kid who wanted to look cool and that's about it. It is for that exact reason that I told him I want a Jeep certified pre-purchase inspection since he did the showy mods without the internals. I kinda laughed when he told me the guy busted up the stock driveshaft. I'm very new to Jeeps but after trolling these forums I knew it was setup for failure. The previous owner tried to paint on Rhino liner but it came out like crap, so this owner got new carpet for it. He mentioned he also has something installed with the shifting but that one of the clips came off (and that it seems to drive better now without it). I'm sure this is an obvious part that I'm blanking on the name so forgive me.

However, even at full 8k for an 4.0 01 with 80k miles, it is one of the lowest around, modded or not. For what its worth, he said when he got it inspected and they had it jacked up they told him the lift was put in really well and he was told it was $1,500 new (I don't know the brand). I'd rather sell off the 4 35s and get 5 33's, so here's hoping that if the deal goes through I'll find a buyer for the 35s.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:01 PM   #10
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^ X2 what specbill said.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:02 PM   #11
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I want $11,000 for my 2000 87,000 miles half doors new sail cloth tinted window top, new tires, 7" new fender flairs car looks showroom new, perfect carpet, CD, won't find a better taken care Jeep anywhere.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:48 PM   #12
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We'll a Slip yoke eliminator with CV/driveshaft to fix the soon-to-be-broke-again drive shaft installed $800+. It will add strength and eliminate the drivetrain vibration.

It probably has 3.73 gears (there is a tag on one if not both the diff case's that will say). I don't think 3.07 gears could pull those thornburgs out of the driveway!

As for the lift did you catch a name brand? 4wheelparts.com and quadratec.com are good sources to do shopping but id does sound like a quality short arm kit.

The stock dana 35 in the rear can't handle 35 thornburgs and 33's with the trac-loc rear ome limited slip lasted me 1 trail trip before I shattered my spider gears. It is a ticking time bomb ready to blow! Rear axle replacement yourself can be as low at 500$ or easily $1000+ and thats an low ball estimate.

The good news is it MIGHT have a dana 44 from the factory in the rear (count your blessings if it does cuz it saves you $$$!!!)

I can't find the thread that shows the differance but the way I can tell is not only by the shape (the 35 is an eclipse shape/ 44 is oblong), but the bolt is not center bottom of the diff cover in the 44. It is in the 35.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:17 AM   #13
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One question remains. Many of you said to drop to 33s and that I will need to regear and to put in a lot of reinforcement parts. I completely understand why I'd need that to offroad it, but if I am basically using this to drive to the beach (or on the beach as the previous owner did), light trails and drive in the snow, is all that necessary? I guess I'm trying to find the balance on what is safe to drive (and wont break parts) and what is necessary to take this thing offorad in the ways many of you do, since I will be closer to the first option. At the same time, if I am on a trail and see a fun path, I don't want to worry about something snapping off if I try to take it.

I'm an Acurazine.com guy, so it's great to know the wranglerforum guys are just as helpful. I now have a much better idea of things to consider when I see it tonight.
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Old 07-13-2010, 07:23 AM   #14
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I have a 2002 with 33s and a 4 inch lift. On the interstate, I spend more time in 4th than 5th. It had 35s on it but I switched them out for this reason, and still feel like it needs to be re-geared.

Sounds unanimous--that you either need to go back to 33s or re-gear. I have found out that re-gearing will be around $1500.

But even with 33s, it still takes some coaxing at high speeds to keep up with traffic.

All that being said, that Jeep is sweet. And the price is great IMO. Mine is a 2002 and I paid 12K for it with more miles...
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:04 AM   #15
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The D35 will be ok with 33's, if you leave the 35's on it, eventually you will tear it up, no way of knowing when or where that will happen, but guaranteed it won't come at a good time. Depending on the gears it has now, the need to regear for 33's is up to you. I have 3:07 gears and 33's. I live in flat Indiana, and while it isn't ideal, I don't want to kill myself every time I drive it either. The gears are fine with me. It bogs going up hill, and I won't win any races against anything, ever, but I smile everywhere I go, even if it takes me 2 minutes longer to get there.

Long story, short, is that regearing isn't necessary, but you may find it'll make it a more pleasant ride for you if you do.....
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Old 07-13-2010, 11:16 AM   #16
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Thornbirds are crap. If you get it, get some new 33s. As said before 35s are too big for a 4" lift.
Agree!!!

Disagree!!!
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Old 07-13-2010, 12:16 PM   #17
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Agree!!!

Disagree!!!
I think 35s are too big for only 4" of lift unless you've got a small body lift and tube fenders. Otherwise, you're bumpstopped into not having much suspension articulation. But that's just my opinion.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:16 PM   #18
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I think 35s are too big for only 4" of lift unless you've got a small body lift and tube fenders. Otherwise, you're bumpstopped into not having much suspension uptravel. But that's just my opinion.
I agree that it is minimal, but it can work. Just the blanket statement of "35s are too big for a 4" lift" is not exactly correct without further clarification. Heck, I have seen 40s on a stock height rig.

With all that being said, I run about 6" of lift over stock, with 39s. Of course, there has been some minor fender trimming to accomodate this combination.
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:18 PM   #19
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I think 35s are too big for only 4" of lift unless you've got a small body lift and tube fenders. Otherwise, you're bumpstopped into not having much suspension articulation. But that's just my opinion.
WHoa! I just noticed you are agreeing with "Oswald", and your location is "on the grassy knoll"! Remind me not to visit Dallas while you are in town!
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Old 07-13-2010, 01:22 PM   #20
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WHoa! I just noticed you are agreeing with "Oswald", and your location is "on the grassy knoll"! Remind me not to visit Dallas while you are in town!
Lol........good catch.
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Old 07-13-2010, 04:56 PM   #21
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Rain has postponed my viewing for tonight, but that just gives me more time to research.

Ideally, I'd come to find out that the previous owner did more work than the current owner knows about and it turns out to be a sweet deal. The more likely answer will be that it will end up being not worth it.


I found a 99/110k TJ that was actually built as intended.


99 Wrangler lifted 6cyl auto. The knowledge different between the two sellers is incredible. He agreed to 8k if I wanted it. I have a feeling that if that Yellow one is as stock underneath as we assume, the 99 would end up making me much happier (with more money in my pocket in the long run). I'm awaiting a response on the gears and axles. This one is auto though and I was hoping for a 5sp since my daily is auto and I wanted a change. hmm
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Old 07-13-2010, 06:50 PM   #22
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Autos are better for rock crawling.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:26 AM   #23
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Can you guys weigh in on the last one I found?

1999 / 110k / Auto / 4.0
$8k

5.5 inch Rock Krawler long arm suspension ($2500.00)
Rancho fully adjustable shocks
33' TRX trxus interco tires
hard top and soft top
Gen-Right tube fenders($500.00)
TomWoods CV full spline rear drive shaft with a Teraflex super short slip-yoke eliminator on the transfer case ($800.00)
stock gears/axles (though he says it's not a problem)

Replaced the following:
new Warn gas tank skid plate 3/16 steel
New gas tank straps
all new brake lines from master cylinder to each wheel
new drilled and slotted front rotors
New good brake pads in front
new radiator
new water pump
all new exhaust from motor back including stainless steel header
new steering box
new steering linkage
new e-brake cables
new freeze plugs
new wires plugs cap and rotor

I still have in boxes heated stainless steel mirrors, warn cab corner covers paint matched, a ranch steering stabilizer and a warn rear bumper with a 2" receiver (used)
It has been completely gone through including the frame sandblasted and undercoated.



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Old 07-14-2010, 07:30 AM   #24
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Pretty baby! Don't yet understand some of the mods listed...but I am learning. I have had my new "big girl jeep" (4-inch lift, 33-inch tires) for about 2 months now, after having had a stock jeep years ago.

But from all the shopping around I did for about a year before my baby "chose me", the price sounds reasonable to me.
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Old 07-14-2010, 11:59 AM   #25
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Can you guys weigh in on the last one I found?

1999 / 110k / Auto / 4.0
$8k

5.5 inch Rock Krawler long arm suspension ($2500.00)
Rancho fully adjustable shocks
33' TRX trxus interco tires
hard top and soft top
Gen-Right tube fenders($500.00)
TomWoods CV full spline rear drive shaft with a Teraflex super short slip-yoke eliminator on the transfer case ($800.00)
stock gears/axles (though he says it's not a problem)

Replaced the following:
new Warn gas tank skid plate 3/16 steel
New gas tank straps
all new brake lines from master cylinder to each wheel
new drilled and slotted front rotors
New good brake pads in front
new radiator
new water pump
all new exhaust from motor back including stainless steel header
new steering box
new steering linkage
new e-brake cables
new freeze plugs
new wires plugs cap and rotor

I still have in boxes heated stainless steel mirrors, warn cab corner covers paint matched, a ranch steering stabilizer and a warn rear bumper with a 2" receiver (used)
It has been completely gone through including the frame sandblasted and undercoated.



A lot more Jeep for the $$$. I would go this route for sure. GREAT lift, better tires, long list of mods.

The front "drilled and slotted rotors" are a waste of $$$ for a Jeep, and might be worse than stock rotors if you play in the mud a lot.

If it has had as much work done recently as stated, like the frame blasted and coated, you might want to check to see if it has a good title, not salvaged, like it has been totalled out. I would not care, but others might.

The stock gears and axles should be OK with 33s for a while, just check the rear axle, I am betting it is a D35.
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:05 PM   #26
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A lot more Jeep for the $$$. I would go this route for sure. GREAT lift, better tires, long list of mods.

The front "drilled and slotted rotors" are a waste of $$$ for a Jeep, and might be worse than stock rotors if you play in the mud a lot.

If it has had as much work done recently as stated, like the frame blasted and coated, you might want to check to see if it has a good title, not salvaged, like it has been totalled out. I would not care, but others might.

The stock gears and axles should be OK with 33s for a while, just check the rear axle, I am betting it is a D35.
Agreed. Definitely the route I'd go.
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Old 07-14-2010, 12:41 PM   #27
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just check the rear axle, I am betting it is a D35.
It is the 35. He said he planned on eventually doing the Ford 8.8 swap but that under normal driving and wheeling, the 35 has been working fine.

I'm excited to go see this one tonight. Glad you guys think it's a good pick for the money.
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Old 07-17-2010, 03:27 PM   #28
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I am the new owner of this truck. The seller took awesome care of it and everything listed was accurate. It needed a few small things and he's going to do them all for me this weekend so I can drive it home next week. Thanks again for all the help. I'll post pics when I get it in my driveway
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Old 07-19-2010, 12:17 PM   #29
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Congrats! Nice find at a good price.
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Old 07-22-2010, 12:06 PM   #30
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So I've had the truck home for 2 days and I got my 1st check engine light. PO138 O2 Sensor. There seems to be tons of info on here so I'm hoping a Mopar replacement will fix that since I need to get a sticker this week and that's not gonna happen with the light on.

Also the cigarette lighter for my charger doesn't work despite a good fuse, so I get to track that down too. It's robably easier to rewire a 12 dollar replacement

And lastly the serpentine belt seems loose because I get a loud screech for a few seconds when I turn it on-espeically with the AC on.

Ahh the joys of being a Jeep owner...

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