Should i take my backseats out, just to put in subs - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:58 PM   #61
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Here's a pic of my custom box, not much of a looker but it bumps.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:55 PM   #62
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I'm going to be using this 10" when I do mine.
Amazon.com: Pioneer TS-SW2501S2 10-Inch Shallow Subwoofer with 1200 Watts Max Power: Car Electronics

Pushing it with that 800 watt Pioneer i mentioned earlier which will be mounted inside of the center console.

This is one of the few mods to my Jeep that I am nervous about. I have read several threads about building this style box and it seems easy and intimidating at the same time. I hope it's more on the easy side. lol
I was nervous too. But like I said, take the seat apart and see what your up against, take some measurements, and you'll soon realize that it is totally do-able.

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Old 03-21-2012, 11:38 PM   #63
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Let's do a little math A= P x R squared

Now calculate cone area for 4, 4" drivers VS 1, 12"

That stated, remember that the idea is to move air, and more cone area moves more air, right?

Ok, now consider that larger cones have to be stiffer with bigger magnets and take more power to move. PLUS they require a higher quality amp with better dampning to control the cone. PLUS, the larger driver is also measures deeper. PLUS, you can buy 4, 4" drivers much cheaper than one bass worthy 12".

Bass freqs can be the very hardest to reinforce and control, and also the most expensive band in the whole freq range to reproduce if you don't use yer head.

Useable bass freqs for playback of most if not all prerecorded music is only 50-150 Hz, and considering the male chest cavity resonates around 85 Hz, then focus your efforts on cheaper, smaller drivers that are very efficient in that range.
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:15 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
jackhammer....that's something I haven't thought of in awhile. I never had one of those, but I did have a few pairs of the RFL's. I think the jack need something like 8 cuft or something retarded like that
Only 8 ? I am sure u could make that work in a jeep...u may have to pull the backseat and the passenger seat as well though haha
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:16 AM   #65
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I know a guy with a couple of those jackhammers...he uses them to do sound for bands...in large open air arenas...
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:16 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by 2002TJ View Post
Let's do a little math A= P x R squared

Now calculate cone area for 4, 4" drivers VS 1, 12"

That stated, remember that the idea is to move air, and more cone area moves more air, right?

Ok, now consider that larger cones have to be stiffer with bigger magnets and take more power to move. PLUS they require a higher quality amp with better dampning to control the cone. PLUS, the larger driver is also measures deeper. PLUS, you can buy 4, 4" drivers much cheaper than one bass worthy 12".

Bass freqs can be the very hardest to reinforce and control, and also the most expensive band in the whole freq range to reproduce if you don't use yer head.

Useable bass freqs for playback of most if not all prerecorded music is only 50-150 Hz, and considering the male chest cavity resonates around 85 Hz, then focus your efforts on cheaper, smaller drivers that are very efficient in that range.
I think the OP is more concerned about bragging rights... "look how big my subs are dude".

I personally follow your train of thought. I have two 5.25" 2-ways in the front, two 5.25" mid drivers with separate tweeters in the pods. For bass I will being using a single 10". I have found over the years that a 10" is pretty much the perfect sized sub.

Same theory goes for my home audio system.
I had a set of tall floor standing tower speakers with 8" subs in them and I replaced them with these.

Each aluminum cabinet contains two 4" drivers and a tweeter... and they scream. They make the three foot tall floor speakers sound pathetic. On the side is a single 10" amplified sub and it will rattle the pictures on the walls.

Large is no longer needed. The 10" sub that I am putting in the Jeep has a mounting depth of only 3" and running at 2ohm with a max handling of 1200 watts, capable of hitting 20hz.... sit too close and you may poop your pants.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:22 AM   #67
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Sorry man but 4 4" drivers will do nothing in a car. Its not a home theater or a recording studio. I was able to achieve the same SPL as 4 15's with 5" drivers about 8 years ago, but it took 25 of them to do it. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that 90 percent of your home and pro audio transducers sound the way they do because of the cabinet design. That being said, its nearly impossible to have a perfect cabinet design in a vehicle, much less a jeep.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:39 AM   #68
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Sorry man but 4 4" drivers will do nothing in a car. Its not a home theater or a recording studio. I was able to achieve the same SPL as 4 15's with 5" drivers about 8 years ago, but it took 25 of them to do it. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that 90 percent of your home and pro audio transducers sound the way they do because of the cabinet design. That being said, its nearly impossible to have a perfect cabinet design in a vehicle, much less a jeep.
I wouldn't go as far as 4" drivers in my Jeep, but I feel that the 5.25" will do the job.

I think the main focus of this thread however was the subs, and there has been huge advancements in car audio subs in the past few years that make it rather foolish looking to drive around with enormous boxes that take up the whole rear of your vehicle. Unless you are in a competition, it just makes you look like this guy.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:44 AM   #69
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True dat....I have been in the car audio business professionally for 14 years now and it has gone through alot of changes. I have built them all, SQ, SPL, dB drag, Iasca, USAC, demo cars etc.....everyone likes different stuff. I am old and still like like the boom from time to time; but I have a remote gain so I can attenuate it down when its not needed
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:15 PM   #70
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Just like Dragonii said, I have 2 10" 2 ohm speakers with 1200 watts pushing. They fit behind the seat and make pleanty of deep bass. I like my music loud but only when it is appropriate. Like alot of the others guys have said loud rattling at a stoplight is not cool, so just be respectfull when driving in town.

Definetly dont lose the back seat just for subs.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:42 AM   #71
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im currently putting my 2 12 inch west coast custom subs i have in a 13 inch box in the truck without removing the seat i have to cut the box down a little so it will fit but all the measurements add up im putting it in today ill let you know how it goes. it's the best thing you get to keep your seats and have sick bass. get the correct size box and you can fit anything in the trunk space man don't ditch the seats because whoever is going to sit in the back seats with the subs cranking it's gunna be BLOWN lmao
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Old 02-24-2013, 12:39 PM   #72
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a 4x75 amp under one seat, and an 8" powered sub under the other sounds suprisingly good.
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Old 03-04-2013, 01:29 AM   #73
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Have my backseat out right now for 2-12" kicker cv r's hit 140.1 with them. I am taking them out and putting in a 12" solo x ( guy I am getting it from hit 161.0 ) 5 channel amp with it not sure in te size, go big or go home boys the box will take up prett much the entire back, will be slapping a sheet of plywood over it to make it 2-tiered so it's not fully useless back there
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:51 AM   #74
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I have 2500 watts of Jl amps, a 12w7 and diamond audio hex components/tweeters in my Range Rover. The entire vehicle has been dynamatted to eliminate rattles and such. After significant financial investment into the install I'm finally content.

That said, my jeep has 2 6 or 8" subs and decent mids throughout. Nothing special or flashy, and plenty of power. If you ever want to leave the top off, you have to consider likelihood of theft and water damage to the components. The louder you system, the more likely someone will hear it and the more likely they will unzip and climb in to relocate it to a vehicle of their own.

I am very pleased with the 600-800 dollar system in my jeep. It's plenty loud and with the lack of acoustics and overall ambient noise level in the TJ's it sounds good enough.

My rover started with a 10w7 and 500 watts..... This drowned out the rest of the stock system. After upgrading the rest, sub wasn't getting pushed properly and the fiberglass enclosure was a hair off for optimum performance hence a larger sub and double the amp. Long story short, that balance is very difficult in a tj. Unless you simply want spl levels (loud).... And don't care to even know what the song is your listening to, build a sensible sized sub enclosure and retain your rear seat.... You would be surprised how loud 2 6 or 8" subs can be in a vehicle that small.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:41 AM   #75
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I HATE to hear drony, dull bass when they thump by or sitting at a redlight. I just laff at their lack of lack of education, skills and how much they paid to sound bad

Maybe you should worry about your own education instead of Laughing at others.... Just because someone likes loud music doesn't mean they are uneducated.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:08 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
Sorry man but 4 4" drivers will do nothing in a car. Its not a home theater or a recording studio. I was able to achieve the same SPL as 4 15's with 5" drivers about 8 years ago, but it took 25 of them to do it. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that 90 percent of your home and pro audio transducers sound the way they do because of the cabinet design. That being said, its nearly impossible to have a perfect cabinet design in a vehicle, much less a jeep.
Disagree...go check out JL replacement dash speakers...tiny yet OUTSTANDING...you are not following your own argument...Size is irrelevant...quality is what matters. A Small quality JL for example WILL sound better than a bigger cheap model FROM SONY ETC...FORGET THE SCIENCE BABLE AND...JUST USE YOUR EARS!
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:35 PM   #77
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I had two 15's in the yellow jeep in this picture. I removed the backseat and even went as far as bolting the box to the floor and used special screws in everything so some yahoo couldn't steal them out. I ran that setup for about a year. I finally took the sub box out and put the seat back in. Best idea ever. It was great to have that rumble in the back. Totally not worth the lack of space the jeep is limited on to begin with. I went back made a custom box for two 12's behind the rear seat. Sounds good but was a ridiculous, yet fun install. You are only limited to your skill and imagination.
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Old 03-05-2013, 01:20 AM   #78
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Last thought. Make sure the enclosure allows the seat to fold forward..... I have to modify the one the previous owner installed as it will not allow the seat to collapse (to be removed) when the cargo space is needed empty.

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