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Old 12-06-2011, 07:39 AM   #31
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Umm that valve you are talking about is NOT factory. It appears to be one of those Prestone flush kits someone has installed.

Sammy, while you have it apart, it would be a wise thing to back flush the heater core.

Simple enough to do, pop the two hoses that run from the firewall on the passenger side, off of the engine block. (loosen clamps and pull em off) Use a garden hose to run water through both hoses, one at a time, till the water runs clean. This will flush all the debris out of the core and let it work better.


As for the rad hoses, nothing to it. Match your new to the old ones, use new clamps.

You already got the good advice on the thermostat so I'll bypass that part, same with using a catch pan when you pull the lower hose.


All done, fill with coolant and leave the rad cap off. Start the jeep and let it run.
Watch the coolant in the top of the radiator. It will slowly rise a couple of times as the coolant heats up (yes some will run out the top), then all of a sudden it will drop out of sight. That's the sign the thermostat has opened. Slowly add coolant to the rad till it's nearly full. Install the rad cap and fill the overflow jug to the full mark.

Drive it and keep an eye on the fluid level. Top off the reservoir as needed.

Oh almost forgot, if you park the jeep on a slight incline, front higher, it helps the air pockets bleed out faster as you fill the coolant back up.


p.s. clean up any/all spilled antifreeze, one drop of antifreeze is all it takes to sicken or kill a dog/cat/child if they ingest it.

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God I miss that Jeep. Forgot the kinda Jeep, 80 SX4.
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Old 12-06-2011, 07:50 AM   #32
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Thank you so much.
This has been super helpful

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Old 12-06-2011, 07:59 AM   #33
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x2, that valve is definitely not factory. Be glad you don't have it; just one more thing to get old, brittle, and eventually fail. Follow the rest of Shelby427's instructions and you should be good to go.

And RTV isn't necessary for replacing the thermostat either. Using the gasket by itself is perfectly fine, and much easier.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:36 AM   #34
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Ok. Thank you.
Should I let the radiator drain before I detach the lower hose?
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:39 AM   #35
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And ya. The guy at the parts store specifically told me that I didn't want to put any silicone on it.
It's one of those weird fiberglass-looking gaskets. Not a rubber ring.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:39 AM   #36
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Doesn't matter; they both do the same job, but draining the radiator through it's valve is the slower/cleaner way of doing it. Detaching the lower hose without draining the radiator won't hurt anything, just be ready to catch the torrent of coolant.

I usually open the valve and let it drain as I remove other hoses, etc..
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:43 AM   #37
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Ya. That's probably what I'm gonna do. What coolant ratio to you recommend I use. The coldest that it would ever possibly get here is about 15 at night. The lowest we usually get is about 19 once or twice every winter. I have a full gallon of antifreeze and about a 3.4 gallon system. All day at work yesterday and all day at school today, all I can think about is working on the jeep and getting it fixed haha.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:51 AM   #38
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I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but if you have a high quality thermostat, it probably has a "burp hole" in it to help keep air pockets out of the block. If you see a small hole in the diaphragm of the thermostat, near the outer rim, make sure it's installed with the hole on the TOP. it won't do any good on the bottom.
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Old 12-06-2011, 08:53 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy91683 View Post
Ya. That's probably what I'm gonna do. What coolant ratio to you recommend I use. The coldest that it would ever possibly get here is about 15 at night. The lowest we usually get is about 19 once or twice every winter. I have a full gallon of antifreeze and about a 3.4 gallon system. All day at work yesterday and all day at school today, all I can think about is working on the jeep and getting it fixed haha.
50/50 is what's recommended, no? Someone correct me please if I'm wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by C.L. View Post
I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but if you have a high quality thermostat, it probably has a "burp hole" in it to help keep air pockets out of the block. If you see a small hole in the diaphragm of the thermostat, near the outer rim, make sure it's installed with the hole on the TOP. it won't do any good on the bottom.
Good point, and if your thermostat doesn't have a hole in it you can drill one.
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Old 12-06-2011, 11:49 PM   #40
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It's a $10 premium thermostat
Could someone show me a picture of where the hole would be/what it would look like? Or would it be very obvious?
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Old 12-07-2011, 07:26 AM   #41
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:11 PM   #42
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Ok, so I'm pretty sure that I got the good old jeep up and running again :]
-I got a brand new thermostat housing and gasket, and I sealed both sides of the gasket with water outlet sealant. I ended up having to take the belt pulley off because it was a pain to get to the lower bolt since the belt was right in the way. I also got a new lower bolt because somebody stripped the head of the old one until it was almost round.
-I got a new, fail-safe thermostat, but there wasn't a hole in the top. I broke out the drill and drilled one.
-New upper and lower hoses. The top one was swollen, warped, and I found the small hole where the coolant sprayed out of. The lower one looked like it was also ready to split open, and it was a pain to get off and on because the clamp was in such a difficult space. The hoses were still stock and my jeep is a 98. The hoses were actually older than the jeep because the manufacturing date was printed on them, and it was from October of 97.

I put everything together and filled up the system with new coolant and burped the hoses and such. I got it completely warmed up and the lower hose started leaking at the difficult clamp of course. I got under there, tightened it up, and then started the jeep back up. I took it for about a mile test-drive to get it completely warmed up and then parked it and let it idle. Only one drip that I'm very positive was a residual drip from the first time that the hose leaked. The complete test will be when I drive it to school tomorrow.

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