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So It Kinda Sucks...

4K views 41 replies 7 participants last post by  Sammy91683 
#1 ·
When I walked out into the parking lot at school today, there was a giant puddle under my car. I checked it out, and I drove it home (since I only live like 2 miles from the school) and it turns out that one of my radiator hoses split open and spewed coolant everywhere across under my hood (you can trace the spatter just like CSI) I just got a brand new radiator a couple months ago because the old one cracked. I got brand new hoses and a new premium thermostat now though. I'm gonna be putting them in tomorrow along with new spark plugs, plug wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. My poor jeep :/ Any good tips on the thermostat? I haven't done it before.
 
#5 ·
if the head gasket is blown then you will usually end up with coolant in your oil.. if left unchecked your oil will not properly lubricate the rod and main bearings, which could lead to catastrophic failure.. spun bearings are not good...

overheating can be a big issue, if it did overheat and you start seeing signs of a blown head gasket (oil from the dipstick looks like a mocha milkshake) you're looking at a pretty spendy fix.. you will have to pull the head, buy a new head gasket kit (around $80) head bolts ($30) have your head serviced ($200ish)
 
#6 ·
Ok. So the only way to tell if that happened is to check the oil?
I really don't think that happened though because I had my radiator crack and my engine was completely overheating multiple times, and it managed to be fine. I've changed my oil since then and it looked really good.
I don't think that it would've blown the head gasket if my car didn't even overheat.
The steam was probably just from the coolant and water spraying onto the hot engine since there wasn't a sign of it overheating.
 
#7 ·
just check the oil every day or two after you've driven it.. usually you'll see the mocha color up toward the top of the dip stick.. take the oil cap off too and see if there is any of the same color build up on the cap..

this isnt the only sign of a bad head gasket though.. compression leaking into adjacent cylinders is another.. a compression test or leakdown test can confirm..

Another thing to be aware of when overheating occurs is the head can warp, which is why you would want it serviced.. be happy you dont have a 2000-2001 TJ.. they shrunk the exhaust port size in half for emissions reasons but the head was prone to cracking.. i believe that the casting was revised in 02.. but the head is still garbage
 
#8 ·
Ok thanks.
Ya, I love my 98. It's a great year.
Like I said, it didn't seem to have overheated too badly, so I think that I'm ok.
I'm trying to calm myself down because my jeep is my baby, and also my only way of transportation since I'm a high school senior with a part time job.
Not helping XD hahaha
 
#11 ·
also you asked for tips on installing the thermostat.. its pretty simple, make sure you get yourself a thermostat housing gasket.. have a razor blade handy to scrape off your old gasket.. get some black RVT to apply to the head where the gasket goes, and the mounting surface of the thermostat housing.. the smallest tube of RVT should be enough..

was it the upper or lower hose that cracked?
 
#16 ·
thankfully i didnt have that happen when i had cooling problems, had to replace the entire cooling system :banghead:
Ya, I know. I'm borrowing my grandpa's truck and whenever I see jeeps, I instinctively do the jeep wave, but then I just feel like an idiot and miss my jeep XD
i know what you mean, but im driving my GF's aveo, talk about awkward :rofl:
 
#14 ·
Ya, the guy gave me a gasket piece when I bought the thermostat. Ok. I'll go to Ace tomorrow after school to get it. It was the upper right where the clamp is where it goes into the water pump. I didn't get a chance to see the crack itself, because it seemed to have been towards the bottom of the hose, but like I said, the hose was all swollen and you could trace the spatter all the way back to the part of the hose. The spray made it all the way across the underside of my hood though. Have to give it some props haha.
 
#17 ·
When you connect all the hoses back up, connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing first.. dont connect it to the radiator yet... one of the heater hoses that goes from that housing to the firewall should have a breather valve on it.. unscrew it.. go back to the upper radiator hose and start pouring coolant into it slowly, it will start going into the head.. having that breather valve will allow the coolant to flow in faster (it will still be pretty slow though as it has to flow past the thermostat).. keep an eye on that breather valve until you can see coolant about to come out, or coming out.. stop pouring and put the cap back on the valve.. this should fill the head up for the most part.. now put coolant in the radiator until that seems full.. put the rest if any in the overflow container.. check it in a few days to make sure you arent low
 
#26 ·
I'd say its necessary.. you dont want an air pocket in the cooling system, especially in the head.. the cooling system is pressurized so the air cant escape.. and if you imagine the water pump will take a while to get coolant up into the head, which will trap the air in the head until the thermostat opens at 180*.. you'll also run the radiator low of coolant..
 
#29 ·
uhh well if you're doing your lower radiator hose too.. you're gonna want a bucket to catch the coolant that will come out too.. else get more coolant lol.. the 4L is a 3.5 gallon cooling system iirc..

and yes, google images FTW


even has an arrow pointing to it and everything! :D
 
#31 ·
Umm that valve you are talking about is NOT factory. It appears to be one of those Prestone flush kits someone has installed.

Sammy, while you have it apart, it would be a wise thing to back flush the heater core.

Simple enough to do, pop the two hoses that run from the firewall on the passenger side, off of the engine block. (loosen clamps and pull em off) Use a garden hose to run water through both hoses, one at a time, till the water runs clean. This will flush all the debris out of the core and let it work better.


As for the rad hoses, nothing to it. Match your new to the old ones, use new clamps.

You already got the good advice on the thermostat so I'll bypass that part, same with using a catch pan when you pull the lower hose.


All done, fill with coolant and leave the rad cap off. Start the jeep and let it run.
Watch the coolant in the top of the radiator. It will slowly rise a couple of times as the coolant heats up (yes some will run out the top), then all of a sudden it will drop out of sight. That's the sign the thermostat has opened. Slowly add coolant to the rad till it's nearly full. Install the rad cap and fill the overflow jug to the full mark.

Drive it and keep an eye on the fluid level. Top off the reservoir as needed.

Oh almost forgot, if you park the jeep on a slight incline, front higher, it helps the air pockets bleed out faster as you fill the coolant back up.


p.s. clean up any/all spilled antifreeze, one drop of antifreeze is all it takes to sicken or kill a dog/cat/child if they ingest it.
 
#33 ·
x2, that valve is definitely not factory. Be glad you don't have it; just one more thing to get old, brittle, and eventually fail. Follow the rest of Shelby427's instructions and you should be good to go.

And RTV isn't necessary for replacing the thermostat either. Using the gasket by itself is perfectly fine, and much easier.
 
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