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Old 10-22-2011, 08:47 PM   #1
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Some Rubicon questions

Hey guys, I'm new here. Totaled my jk so I'm now looking for an 04-06 rubicon. I looked at two today and was surprised that they both only had rear lockers. I always thought they had both rear and front lockers. This will be my 4th jeep but have never looked into the rubicons. Any help would be much appreciated. Also is there things I should be looking for when I'm looking for a rubicon. Things that would typically go? Thanks. Matt

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Old 10-22-2011, 08:50 PM   #2
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Yes they have front and rear lockers but only 1 button controls both as I recall.

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Old 10-22-2011, 08:52 PM   #3
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Well on the dash there is a light that comes on that says rear locked. And I can see right next to it where it says front locked but that light wasn't on in both of the rubicons I looked at today.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:54 PM   #4
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One switch, rear locks first, then both. There is an indicator light on the dash that will tell you the status of front and rear lockers. Steady is on, blinking is in the process of being locked or unlocked.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #5
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I didn't really drive forward to far when I was testing it prob about 5 feet in 4lo with it locked but the only light that was on was the rear locked I didn't see the light come on at all for the front locker. And that is the same for both that I looked at
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:02 PM   #6
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Could be a connection issue with the front I recall some issues with that.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:18 PM   #7
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Did you hit the switch once or twice?
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:19 PM   #8
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I didn't really drive forward to far when I was testing it prob about 5 feet in 4lo with it locked but the only light that was on was the rear locked I didn't see the light come on at all for the front locker. And that is the same for both that I looked at
You have to press the button twice. Once for rear and than again to lock the front.
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Old 10-22-2011, 09:26 PM   #9
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Oh.... Ya i only hit it once, but im pretty sure i hit it again after moving a couple feet and it just unlocked the rear. well I am going to be looking at one more tomorrow and going back to look at this one i looked at today that i think im going to end up getting but i was so disapointed that the front didnt lock haha. So just put her in four low and hit the button twice.... ok
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:33 PM   #10
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Old 10-22-2011, 10:51 PM   #11
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Thanks for the help! I think im going to get the rubi i looked at today. 05 Rubicon 66k miles dual top 5 speed manual very clean $16000. Test drove and looked at everything and loved this thing but was so upset the front diff light wasnt on but i def only hit the button once haha damnit! Think its a good deal?
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:47 AM   #12
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i thought all manual trans in 05 were 6 speed, thats what mine is
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Old 10-23-2011, 12:57 AM   #13
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i thought all manual trans in 05 were 6 speed, thats what mine is
Correct
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Old 10-23-2011, 08:21 AM   #14
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Oh ya sorry she was an 04
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Old 10-23-2011, 10:04 AM   #15
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I have an 04',,, you will not regret your purchase. Be sure to bump to locker switch once for the rear, and again for the front. The front engagement light should blink until it engages.. To disengage the front, bump it once, to disengage the rear, lift it up. Or to disengage both at once, just lift it up.. When the factory switch quits working, I plan to install to bump toggles...
If your fuel mileage seems really low, 13 or 14 mpg, take your throttle body off, take all the sensors off, clean everything thoroughly, reassemble, and install. Then use the medium grade fuel, ( less ethanol) you should, depending on you driving habits, get 16 to 18 MPGs .. My wife and I took a drive last weekend for the fall foliage in upstate PA, just tooling around, and managed to get 20 MPG... Cleaning of the throttle body will now be a regular maintenance item on my list..
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Old 10-23-2011, 04:52 PM   #16
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You can do the locker rewire mod. Allow you to have switch for the front and one for the rear allowing you the ability to lock it in 4hi as well.
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Old 10-24-2011, 11:57 AM   #17
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Ok got another question. I'm bringing this rubicon to my mechanic to do a once over and if everything checks out ok I'm going to buy her. I'm going to put the RE 4.5 super flex lift in with all new adjustable control arms. Well the kit also comes with a SYE and a Tom wood driveshaft. The rubi is an 04 5 speed. I thought I saw somewhere that the rubis don't have a slip yoke so I wouldn't need the SYE kit. Is that true? Also with the rubi will I need the new driveshaft or no? Just for some more info will be running 33's with the lift. I really want to get this down cuz I had a 97 Cherokee that I lifted 4.5 and never did that stuff and ended up blowing my TC. Don't want to deal with that again making sure I do this one right. Thanks for the help!
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:22 PM   #18
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On the rear lock light coming on, a lot of times I have to roll a few feet in reverse for my front diff to lock in. The front lock light should flash when it's engaged but not locked in though IIRC.
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:25 PM   #19
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ive only used the lockers a couple times in my jeep and seems to be the same as what 04-rubi stated.rear locks instantly and i had to roll a bit to engage/dis engage the front.i figure they just need to be used more...had to use them for the firt time yesterday.woo hoo!my friends said it was about bloody time i used it for what it was built for.lol!
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:31 PM   #20
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Ok cool I'm going to drive it tomorrow to my mechanic so I'm def going to test that out. I was only pushing the button once I didn't know u had to push the button two times to get the front to lock. Good to kno! Thanks
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Old 10-24-2011, 01:59 PM   #21
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No sye needed. A new rear shaft with the 4.5 lift would be good however.
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:11 PM   #22
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Awsome just what I wanted to hear thanks man!
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Old 10-24-2011, 02:12 PM   #23
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I've used mine hundreds of times.
Push the button once - that's the command to engage the rear. The rear light flashes until the locker itself is fully engaged. Dogs (teeth) have to lock together - if it's only partially engaged and you load it - POW! It breaks! (Strips the teeth out and breaks a collar.) If it keeps flashing, roll forward or back a few inches, turning a little helps too.
Wait until it stops flashing, the means it's fully locked.

Push a 2nd time - then the front gets the command. Same thing with it - flashing means it's trying to lock, solid means it is locked.

Best to leave the front off until you really need it. A hard sharp turn under load while the front's locked often breaks the front axle u-joint.

Sometimes if one or the other keeps flashing - says it's having trouble lining up the dogs - roll forward or back and turn the wheels slightly till it's on solid.

Same when unlocking - if it's having trouble (flashing) roll and turn. It usually only needs a few inches to let the dogs (teeth) line up. It has to let the load off in order for the ring to retract.

The lockers won't work unless you are in 4 LO and under 15? MPH.
Running sand dunes it's not what you need. The bypass is an easy thing to do, then you can use it anytime you want it.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged11
Ok got another question. I'm bringing this rubicon to my mechanic to do a once over and if everything checks out ok I'm going to buy her. I'm going to put the RE 4.5 super flex lift in with all new adjustable control arms. Well the kit also comes with a SYE and a Tom wood driveshaft. The rubi is an 04 5 speed. I thought I saw somewhere that the rubis don't have a slip yoke so I wouldn't need the SYE kit. Is that true? Also with the rubi will I need the new driveshaft or no? Just for some more info will be running 33's with the lift. I really want to get this down cuz I had a 97 Cherokee that I lifted 4.5 and never did that stuff and ended up blowing my TC. Don't want to deal with that again making sure I do this one right. Thanks for the help!
I wouldn't waste my money on the TW drive shaft.. Rebuilt my front one, and those in the know ( MOAB 4x4 outpost ) concurred that the built stocker. ( heavy duty greasable joints and centering yoke) is every bit the driveshaft that TWs are.. When it's time, I'll rebuild my rear in the same manner.. Just my opinion.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:47 PM   #25
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i may have to look into that by pass mod.might come in handy in the snow.
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Old 10-24-2011, 03:59 PM   #26
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With a Rubicon, you don't need a SYE - Slip Yoke Eliminator - nothing to eliminate.

But with the RE lift kit, the stock shaft would be at the wrong angles and would be too short.

The stuff that came with your lift kit obviously wasn't for a Rubi.

Best to go to a shaft that eliminates the Rubi DS balancer (round thing on the front of the DS,) is a bit longer, and has a CV (double Cardan) joint. Trying to mickey mouse rather than doing it right will just give you vibrations and possibly a broken T-case.

Tom Woods may give you credit for the shaft you have with the kit, and he sells the right one.

Call Him! He's only done a few thousand.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:09 PM   #27
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Thanks for the good info everyone! I haven't bought the lift kit yet so I will opt put for the SYE and drive shaft. I will def call him up and see what they suggest for a replacement rubi shaft. So should I wait and see of I have bad driveline vibes? Or just get a new shaft. I like to do things right the first time
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:10 PM   #28
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Woops I Ment I won't get the SYE and driveshaft
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:16 PM   #29
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isnt the rear stock rubicon shaft good for up to 4" lift".i only plan to do a 2.5 or 3"suspension lift and probably a 1"bl/mml so i dont have to replace the rear..
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Old 10-24-2011, 05:09 PM   #30
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Ok this may sound dumb to some people here, but I'm new to this rubicon thing. So am I right when I say the front shaft is fine and the rear may need to be extended??

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