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Old 09-20-2007, 04:38 AM   #1
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Stock rear locker

I am supposed to have the stock rear locker on my TJ, but this weekend, a couple of times in off camber situations, I had to try several times, and angles, to get through the area. What gives? I got tired of hearing the guide say "that's the difference between locked and not locked". I never need the strap (oh, no, not once) as a few others did, but I don't understand why my rear wheels did not perform as I expected. My Jeep took me places that I could not walk! I am proud and amazed! But when opposite sides had no traction/in the air, I had to back up and try again. (Btw how come it worked in reverse, but not in foreward?)

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Old 09-20-2007, 07:31 AM   #2
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Unless you have a rubicon, you don't have a locker.

You have the Trac-Lok Limited Slip Diff. Witch also requires a lil special maintence. When you change the Diff oil it requires a bottle of Friction Modifer to keep it working correctly, some replacement fluid comes with it already mixed in. I prefer to mix it myself.

Read here:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential4.htm


.

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Old 09-20-2007, 08:44 AM   #3
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I'd also be concerned that the GUIDE was asking what the diff is between locked and not locked. Uh, that is kind of a basic thing for offroading...
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Old 09-20-2007, 08:55 AM   #4
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Is says he got tired of hearing the guide say THAT's the difference between locked and not locked.
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Old 09-20-2007, 09:17 AM   #5
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Duh. That's what I get for posting before coffee in the morning
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Old 09-20-2007, 12:03 PM   #6
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I haven't tried it but I heard that if you apply a couple of clicks on the parking break, it will greatly add to the "locked" aspect of the LSD. Is this true?

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Old 09-20-2007, 12:25 PM   #7
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I haven't tried it but I heard that if you apply a couple of clicks on the parking break, it will greatly add to the "locked" aspect of the LSD. Is this true?

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It can help in some situations where the wheel is completly free, off the ground, but in mud or on ice, it does nothing other than create drag and heat up your brakes.

This of course is an argueable point, but of you think about it, parking brake applies resistance to both rear wheels equally, so you're in effect also making the wheel you want to turn harder to turn.

Possible solutions really are, Keep your trac-lok well maintained, re-shim it stiffer so it engages sooner and more firmly, or replace it with a "lunch box" locker or a true locker.

Becareful with those "lunch box" lockers like powertrax, e-locker, and aussie lockers. The D44 Trac-Lok has a diffrent carrier than and open D44 and require a specific part type.
If you replace with a FULL diff assembly like a Detriot Locker or ARB, OX, ect its a standard D44 housing, and can reuse your ring and pinion gears.

I dunno why but I've heard that term lunch box locker so many times its just how I refer to those.
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:00 PM   #8
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Clicking on the ebrake a couple clicks will help engage the LSD in the 44. However it is not a very good LSD and the clutches will crack easily. When I took mine out everyone of the clutches was cracked from wheelin it. With the trash lock you also have to get used to wheelin with foot on brake and gas to get it to function even a bit. Much power to it and it will slip easily.
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:03 PM   #9
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With the trash lock you also have to get used to wheelin with foot on brake and gas to get it to function even a bit. Much power to it and it will slip easily.
and that is really fun with a manual and no hand throttle.
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Old 09-20-2007, 04:08 PM   #10
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and that is really fun with a manual and no hand throttle.
Yup. That's when the 4:1 comes to the top of the parts list.
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:52 AM   #11
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Yup. That's when the 4:1 comes to the top of the parts list.
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