I smashed into a stump tonight in my jeep while i was in the sand pits. My tie rod bent back into diff cover and is now sitting back about an inch from it. Should i replace it? Bend it back? Seems to still track somewhat straight and doesn't seem to wobble. Ide like to just replace it with another stock one because im cheap.
Or...what do they have for good, reliable aftermarket "heavy duty" tie rods.
I put the currie currectlynk in mine and highly recomend it. That thing has to weigh at least twice as much as the stock system and looks like it would be more at home on my f350 diesel. Made the jeep handle better to, I think the stock system was a little overworked with 35" tires.
As for the rr system I personally don't like it. Leaves a dead spot in the steering and I don't like the bolt on nuckle brackets.
^ nope they all work. there just a little bigger than the stocker but still a good upgrade. i think the years are 93-99??? or maybe its 98? not sure when they stopped making the zj but they are all the same.
So I purchased the RR Heavy Duty Tie Rod w/ Tie Rod ends. I ordered it from 4wd.com, hopefully we dont run into any issues. I did some research and looked in to some reviews and for the price you really cannot beat it. I dont offroad all the time so it wont see a ton of abuse, but I will put it through its paces.
any recommendations on getting the old tie rod off?
also i just had some new tires put on, the jeep still seems to track straight, and i don't get any wobbles. Will driving it like this till probably Tuesday cause premature tire ware.
Presoak with wd-40 or PB blaster...Remove cotter pins, remove tre nuts, since yours is bent it may need a few taps with a hammer. Also to set the new rod try to match the number of exposted threads on the old one.. should get you close. If not you may need to head to a shop.
CJ.XJ.CJ. TJ. TJ.ZJ. TJ.TJ. ZJ.ZJ.YJ. XJ
Sounds like the one I bought a while back when I bent my tie rod. I wish I would have just bought the Currie and have been done with it . . . now I'm worried about the draglink being the weak spot. It's held up fine so far. As far as the measurement, try to match it up to the stock length and if anything make it a hair longer to make up for the bend. I don't think the counting the threads is going to work for you like 4Jeepn mentioned seeing that you won't be using a stocker. Check your toe in and adjust the tie rod accordingly.
Bite the hand that feeds you . . . you've had more than enough to eat already.
^ thats the way!! I used a 5lb mini sledge and got all the joints to pop off in no more than 3 or 4 hits each. Just make sure to hit it like a man, a tap just won't do here. Your not hitting the rod end or or the threaded shaft, your hitting the steering nuckle where the tapered end goes in effectively "squeezing" it out. Leave the nut on a little or the rod will drop rather quickly when it comes out.
The Currie drag link and tie rod isn't fool proof. I've destroyed 2 of them so far. But they are way better than stock (even better than a stock one with a Hi-Lift handle welded over it - the usual trail fix.).
Autozone sells a little puller that makes it easy to remove the ends. No hammer needed.
It's no wonder the country is falling apart - stupidity abounds!
mitch, i dunno if you're still having issues with the tie rods, but if you have a 18"+ pipe wrench, use that. works wonders! just realigned my steering wheel the other day with one that i picked up for $20 i was afraid i'd have to go to a shop to get it done but a little push and the turn buckle loosened right up.