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Old 12-24-2008, 01:41 PM   #1
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Stuck between stock wheels or soft 8s

I want a set of soft 8s in 15X8 but at the same time kinda like the way my stock rims look. If i keep the stockers i'll go with 32/11.50 or maybe 33/11.50 Since they are 7" wide 11.50 is as wide i fel i can go. 33/12.50 on the aftermarket ones. Heres a pic of the stock ones.

Give me your oponions please..

Mine's the blue one other is some what of a comparison of what i think it would look like with larger tires.
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Old 12-24-2008, 01:43 PM   #2
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what color soft 8's black or polished?

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Old 12-24-2008, 01:53 PM   #3
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Are you the same 4U2NV on RCC?

The only reason to buy steel wheels is if you are not going to wheel them. Others with disagree, but bouncing my aluminum ones off rocks and getting minor scratches is way better then bending the bead.

If you keep the stockers, and go with an 11.5 wide tire, you might need to adjust the steering stops, limiting your turning radius... or you can get wheel spacers(not really something I'd do though). With the Soft8's you'd get a better backspacing/offset and wouldn't need for any other mods.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:32 PM   #4
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Black ones get my vote!



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Old 12-24-2008, 03:35 PM   #5
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Nothing to be sorry for, the only reason we have TJ's are they stopped making YJ's. I miss my YJ but after 200K it was time to replace it.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:44 PM   #6
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Steel wheels are ok for some offroading needs but they do dent and bend too easily for me. If you aren't doing rocky or other kinds of difficult wheels that can bend/dent them too easily, they are ok. Otherwise I'd go for an aluminum wheel. I went from aluminum to steel, then after a few years of too many dents and bent steel wheels, I went back to aluminum.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:47 PM   #7
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I always liked black soft 8's but its your Jeep so do what you think looks cooler.
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:58 PM   #8
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No rock to crawl here in South Texas... Mostly mud... REally just wanna get into the good fishing holes. That's the reason for the 4X4..
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:01 PM   #9
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steel wheels can be bent back and repaired, when aluminum bends it is usually unrepairable, and aluminum will crack instead of bend, and then it is scrap.

plus aluminum wheels are around twice as much as steel, and can be even way more if you wanna spend the dough.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:02 PM   #10
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Black Soft 8's...........FTW!!!

Not a TJ either.

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Old 12-24-2008, 05:29 PM   #11
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when aluminum bends it is usually unrepairable, and aluminum will crack instead of bend, and then it is scrap.
I'll just come out and say it, bull****. You're just repeating internet myths you've read. In 8 aluminum wheels with lots of high-end rock crawling under them, I've dented just one aluminum wheel which was a cheapy American Eagle. I pounded the dent out with a few blows with a small sledgehammer and it was fine afterwards. Of all the guys I rock crawl with who run aluminum wheels, I've yet to hear of any of them who cracked any of their aluminum wheels. So out of 8 aluminum wheels and perhaps 130,000 miles on them, one dent in an aluminum wheel I pounded out without problem. With perhaps 40,000 miles on my thankfully departed steel wheels, I pounded so many dents out that I lost track. It was EXTREMELY frustrating to have them dent so badly on the trail they wouldn't even hold air or they would continually "burp" air out on obstacles where I'd have to stop to get my tires back up to 7-8 psi.

There are a lot who repeat the rumors on aluminum wheels but they are just that... rumor (and myth). I'm not saying they can't or won't crack, I'm simply saying that as hard as I and my friends use them, we can only say it sure as hell doesn't happen to us. And we don't exactly cruise the fire trails.

Here's one of the steel wheels off a friend's TJ that did Johnson Valley before he gave up on steel and switched to aluminum... it gets REAL old having to carry a sledgehammer with you to keep your steel wheels round enough so they hold air on the trail.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:33 PM   #12
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Once you hold a steel wheel in your hand then an aluminum one, you'll then realize just how much weight (and stress) you're putting on your axles with those steel wheels.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:37 PM   #13
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Quote:
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you'll then realize just how much weight (and stress) you're putting on your axles with those steel wheels.
dont forget to add the weight of the bigger tires on to those too..
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:40 PM   #14
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dont forget to add the weight of the bigger tires on to those too..
..................and the balancing weights too,
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:41 PM   #15
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dude 110-120 lb per tire is no fun
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:46 PM   #16
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I don't think tires, weights and lugnuts are the issue in this thread.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:47 PM   #17
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..................and the balancing weights too,
I dunno what's more appropriate to call Trippul88... Captain Obvious, Captain Internet, Captain Useless Info, or Captain Mall Crawler. Votes? Poll?
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:48 PM   #18
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I'll just come out and say it, bull****. You're just repeating internet myths you've read. In 8 aluminum wheels with lots of high-end rock crawling under them, I've dented just one aluminum wheel which was a cheapy American Eagle. I pounded the dent out with a few blows with a small sledgehammer and it was fine afterwards. Of all the guys I rock crawl with who run aluminum wheels, I've yet to hear of any of them who cracked any of their aluminum wheels. So out of 8 aluminum wheels and perhaps 130,000 miles on them, one dent in an aluminum wheel I pounded out without problem. With perhaps 40,000 miles on my thankfully departed steel wheels, I pounded so many dents out that I lost track. It was EXTREMELY frustrating to have them dent so badly on the trail they wouldn't even hold air or they would continually "burp" air out on obstacles where I'd have to stop to get my tires back up to 7-8 psi.

There are a lot who repeat the rumors on aluminum wheels but they are just that... rumor (and myth). I'm not saying they can't or won't crack, I'm simply saying that as hard as I and my friends use them, we can only say it sure as hell doesn't happen to us. And we don't exactly cruise the fire trails.

Here's one of the steel wheels off a friend's TJ that did Johnson Valley before he gave up on steel and switched to aluminum... it gets REAL old having to carry a sledgehammer with you to keep your steel wheels round enough so they hold air on the trail.
actually buddy i have never read anything about it on the internet. i don't get my info from the internet. i get it from the more than likely hundreds of thousands of wheels i've had on and off vehicles in my lifetime. and percent of the steel wheels that i've been able to repair, and the percent of aluminum ones i've sent for scrap is where i get my "myths"

steel wheels are a lot heavier there's no question there.

i wheeled aluminum wheels and steel wheels and never hurt them (besides scratches). i don't tell people my way is the only way to do something, i try to present facts so someone can weigh them, and make up their own mind.

weigh the cost, and then the cost for replacement or repair, and decide what you like.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:48 PM   #19
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wow Jerry went all out on this one eh?
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:50 PM   #20
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i can think of a couple captains for him also, but i'll keep them to myself.

edit: removed name calling, don't wanna be on that level.
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Old 12-24-2008, 05:55 PM   #21
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captain my way is the only way sounds about right.. want to know the reason? unless u back up what u say, why should i believe u i'm wrong and you're right? because of ur say so.. come on now that doesnt make sense.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:00 PM   #22
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I dunno what's more appropriate to call Trippul88... Captain Obvious, Captain Internet, Captain Useless Info, or Captain Mall Crawler. Votes? Poll?
How about we don't call anyone names.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:01 PM   #23
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Btt.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:01 PM   #24
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Let's all knock off the name calling, shall we?



(Scout beat me to it, , I'm taking cain to get coffee, carry on Scout)
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:02 PM   #25
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Btt.
dumb question. whats btt?

i'm not all up on the internet abbreviations some times
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:02 PM   #26
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dumb question. whats btt?

i'm not all up on the internet abbreviations some times
Back to topic.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:05 PM   #27
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actually buddy i have never read anything about it on the internet. i don't get my info from the internet. i get it from the more than likely hundreds of thousands of wheels i've had on and off vehicles in my lifetime. and percent of the steel wheels that i've been able to repair, and the percent of aluminum ones i've sent for scrap is where i get my "myths".
I went after your claim that aluminum cracks and doesn't bend, and isn't repairable. Anyone who rock crawls which is extremely hard on any wheel knows that isn't true. In my example, my dented aluminum wheel didn't crack, and I pounded the dent out without it cracking. It happens... just not like it happens to steel wheels.

Ok, I am done here.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:12 PM   #28
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here's my original quote jerry, and i hope this is close enough to back on topic

Quote:
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steel wheels can be bent back and repaired, when aluminum bends it is usually unrepairable, and aluminum will crack instead of bend, and then it is scrap.
.
i've attempted to bend back many many wheels. many aluminum wheels will crack if they are bent enough when you try to bend them back. if they didn't crack already. aluminum will handle an impact a lot worse than steel. but aluminum will hold up well other than that.

its all a balance, steel is cheaper, and can be bent back to a greater extent in most situations. aluminum is more expensive, lighter, and strong, its only downside to me (other than cost) is when it is bent more than a little it has a potential to crack, or it will crack with the stress.

and its not a good idea to assume you know where someone is getting their information.
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:50 PM   #29
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I voted to not keep the factory wheels. But the choice is up to you. I also prefer an aluminum wheel but that is just my preference.

If you do decide to keep your factory wheel, to help prevent rubbing on the frame and front lower control arm. You can run a 33x10.50. With it you still gain some ground clearance without having to run spacers. Most you'll have to do is maybe adjust your steering stops.
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Old 12-24-2008, 10:08 PM   #30
Really?

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You know... I've seen a couple of different styles of wheeling. For MY style of wheeling, the steelies are fine. I've only wheeled with Unlimited and tiny. And at the end of the day, and when you can look down the mountain and say; "Damn, I made it without destroying my rig", It's worth it. I've also seen others throw their shit at the rocks and try to keep going amidst the sound of crinkling steel (that was the vision I got from Jerry's photo). Why bend it if you don't have too?

To each his own! I know you can crawl some serious rocks with steelies. Hell, tiny hit a rock (by accident) so hard once on the passenger side that she bent the plate part of her rock rail but, only scraped her steel rim. I also know that steelies are cheaper than aluminum rims. I can replace three of my steelies for the price of one aluminum rim. I don't know about the rest of you, but I'm kinda on a budget. And if I were to buy a nice set of aluminum rims, I'm gonna leave them in the garage when I wheel.

But, why not wheel light enough NOT to have to replace parts? Have a good spotter, chose a wise path and apply that high school math you thought you'd never use again.

But the real question here was what you think "LOOKS" best, not "what can I hammer against the rocks and still drive?".

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