Well I've started having the dreaded death wobble again!! I haven't had one bit of trouble for like 10 months then the other day on my way to work it did it 5 times. The only thing I have changed is that I rotated the tires about 2 weeks ago. I got under it and checked everything under the front end for tightness, and all the lug nuts and everything looked good. I jacked the front end up and checked for play in the hubs, none. Checked the wheels to make sure i hadn't lost any weights, didn't see anything missing. So I left for work the next day and it did it within a 1/4 mile of the house. I turned right around and was going to swap the tires back to the original positions until I could get it to a shop to get them rebalanced. When I jacked it up to take off the wheels I found that I tightened down the lugs too tight. I ended up breaking 2 studs on one wheel and had one that looked stressed. I went to get some new studs and I went to 2 stores and only got 6 total. Both stores called for a different part # for the front studs than the rear? Can someone tell me the difference?? Luckily I haven't had any trouble with the fronts but I'm gonna wait to do the drivers side until I make sure there is no difference or that I can get some front studs in case it's the same way!! Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance!!
OK... I think I can help. I was an ASE Parts Counter Person for almost 20 years. Even though you have disc brakes both front and rear the set up is totally different. It would stand to reason that the part number on the rear rotors is different as well. Also, the front studs are pressed through a bearing assembly where as the rear studs press through the rear axle flange. The thickness varies from the bearing flange (front) and the axle flange (rear). The shoulders on the lug bolts is the only difference. Hence the part number difference. The threaded portion of the studs should be the same all the way around.
Also, for future reference... And check with your wheel manufacturer to make sure, but most lug nuts on aluminum rims should be torqued to 100 ft lbs.
i broke 4/5 on my driver front wheeling one time (wheel spacer not tightened...) i have a full set of spares with me now. later today when im out by my tool box ill take a picture of em. they ARE different though, one is longer(i cant remember which off the top of my head)
THANKS CCAIN!! That's what I was needing to know. I hve still been waiting on swapping the other side back until I found out something. I guess I will swing by the parts store and see if they have anything in stock for the front yet before I attempt to swap the other side. Oh and I'm not running aluminum, just plain ol' black steelies!! Thanks tiger, but you don't have to go to the trouble!! I just needed to know if there was a difference or not!!