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Old 02-19-2011, 01:44 PM   #1
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Hello,
I was wondering what superchargers are good and what they should run according to price. I am going to have a snorkel which I will use sometimes. I was on the avenger website and they were charging 4000+ (yes four thousand plus dollars) for one. Is that what they run? Which one do you have if you have one? Are they helpful?

Oh and ibuildthembig (or something) said he was going to do a setup of 35's (I've decided on them now) with a 60 front and a 10.25 rear (I think) I trust him a lot but what do you guys think. If I go bigger in the future will that hold?

Thanks,
Tom

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Old 02-19-2011, 04:39 PM   #2
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Sterling 10.25? Good axle, but another D60 would just a good.

As far as superchargers go... way too expensive for the power. Build yourself (or buy) a stroker 4.7L if you want more power... or you can probably drop in a V8 for less.

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Old 02-19-2011, 08:19 PM   #3
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last time I checked, Avenger doesn't do anything to the computer....but somehow magically assumed it will compensate for the fuel delivery required. talked with a guy on another forum...he had an avenger, had it dyno'ed, it only showed about 30hp gain, and ran so lean the shop refused to run it again until he installed some type of piggyback ECU so it could be tuned properly.

505 Performance makes a turbo kit, and RIPPMODS makes a centrifugal supercharger system. everything runs 4000-5000 dollars. If they don't sell some type of ECU/piggyback or computer with the kit, expect to pay another 1000 for a SplitSecond FTC-1 or Unichip and dyno tuning to get the A/F ratio right.

Another popular option is the 4.6/4.7L stroker....
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:53 AM   #4
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I'm not planning on buying the $4000 one. Is that what they run anyway?
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:33 AM   #5
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Oooo saw some prices on said strokers. I'm not sure I can add that much to my already over budget rig. I'm was hoping for more in the $1000-$1300 range. Anything that could add something like 20-40 horsepower or torque in that price range?
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:43 AM   #6
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I'm was hoping for more in the $1000-$1300 range. Anything that could add something like 20-40 horsepower or torque in that price range?
no.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:49 AM   #7
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n2o.
Fixed that for you.

Although, I'm not sure how well - or even if - the jeep will run on nitrous and it's only a temporary shot at that. Also, it does have longevity issues over time. Definitely weigh the pros and cons before going this route.
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:54 AM   #8
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Want to add 20-40 more horsepower?
Check out a cam shaft. Comp cams makes a good one
Check out after cat exhausts or full headers back
Cold air intake airraid and aem make good ones
62mm throttle body bbk makes a nice one
Performance distributers firepower ignition kit
Check out those mods. That will put you in the 1000 dollar range maybe bout 1500 but you won't get stroker kits for cheaper the 2,000 but they add alot more power.
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Old 02-20-2011, 12:14 PM   #9
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If you don't want to spend $3000+, then get nitrous, or nothing at all. A stroker is a good option, but I can see myself having some boost on the 4.0 sometime in the future. I spent $6000 on the blower for my mustang and it was totally worth it. I have CA BS smog to deal with so the stoker is trickier. Would they know? probably not, but I don't want to have to swap back if they catch me. I could remove a blower in a few hours if needed, but I think they have EO numbers.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:13 PM   #10
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SUPERCHARGER x hp = money . No way around this or we would all be running 1000 horse plus .
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:25 PM   #11
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The more I think about this the more I question "why not build your own kit?"

2003 MB C230 Kompressor S/C
03 Mercedes C230 Kompressor Supercharger 2710902180 - eBay (item 120578813273 end time Feb-28-11 13:22:20 PST)

Intercoolers - either Air/Air or H2O/Air:
intercooler items - Get great deals on Car Truck Parts, Turbos, Nitrous, Superchargers items on eBay Motors!


Fab up your own tubing and add an engine management system:
DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products

Maybe $2000 and more power.
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Old 02-20-2011, 01:48 PM   #12
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The more I think about this the more I question "why not build your own kit?"

2003 MB C230 Kompressor S/C
03 Mercedes C230 Kompressor Supercharger 2710902180 - eBay (item 120578813273 end time Feb-28-11 13:22:20 PST)

Intercoolers - either Air/Air or H2O/Air:
intercooler items - Get great deals on Car Truck Parts, Turbos, Nitrous, Superchargers items on eBay Motors!


Fab up your own tubing and add an engine management system:
DIYAutoTune.com Megasquirt Kits / Assembled Engine Management Systems, Wideband o2 Sensor Systems and tuning products

Maybe $2000 and more power.
Unless you can cast a new intake manifold, adding a positive displacement blower is going to be way over most peoples heads. You could use a centri blower if you can make a bracket to hold it, and hook up the tubing. It wouldn't be too hard to make a non intercooled version. If you want an IC, its going to be a tight fit!
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:03 PM   #13
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Fixed that for you.

Although, I'm not sure how well - or even if - the jeep will run on nitrous and it's only a temporary shot at that. Also, it does have longevity issues over time. Definitely weigh the pros and cons before going this route.
nitrous doesn't count

Jeep's don't run at the track...we want power on the highway around 2000-3000rpms...not on spray at 4500rpms...till it runs out.

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Want to add 20-40 more horsepower?
Check out a cam shaft. Comp cams makes a good one
Check out after cat exhausts or full headers back
Cold air intake airraid and aem make good ones
62mm throttle body bbk makes a nice one
Performance distributers firepower ignition kit
Check out those mods. That will put you in the 1000 dollar range maybe bout 1500 but you won't get stroker kits for cheaper the 2,000 but they add alot more power.
Cam is your only hope, but you won't seen 40hp from it, and after you install the new rockers & valve springs required for a duration that helps, get a piggyback ECU to tune it...you're over the OP's budget of $1300.
Cold air intake is useless and a complete waste of money. See jgorm's posts....
62mm throttle body doesn't give you more HP...just slightly better throttle response
An Ignition kit is only for earlier distibutor TJ's...won't help if the OP has a coil pack system...besides the ignition kit doesn't help anything till close to redline...

And even if you add all that stuff up, you still won't get 40hp.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:04 PM   #14
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"Over most people's heads..."

True, but I got that covered, too:
Amazon.com: Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing, and Installing Turbocharger Systems (Engineering and Performance) (9780837601601): Corky Bell: Books



Really, the IC isn't required but it helps...a lot. Also, I never said it was easy but it is possible to design/build one's own FI system using parts from other vehicles. And the main reason I picked the MB SC is because some of them are clutched and you can wire it up to a switch.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:20 PM   #15
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It depends how much boost your pushing but running a turbo without an intercooler is just asking for trouble. Just my 2 cents..
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:25 PM   #16
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It depends how much boost your pushing but running a turbo without an intercooler is just asking for trouble. Just my 2 cents..

Word..

Start boosting hella hot air into the motor and your gonna run into some big problems.

Owning a WRX driving in 100+ degree weather you know that the ECU is just pouring fuel into the motor to compensate for the hot air... An intercooler is a MUST.
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:33 PM   #17
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Word..

Start boosting hella hot air into the motor and your gonna run into some big problems.

Owning a WRX driving in 100+ degree weather you know that the ECU is just pouring fuel into the motor to compensate for the hot air... An intercooler is a MUST.
Funny you should mension wrx's. That's where my experience is from too. lol
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:37 PM   #18
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Funny you should mension wrx's. That's where my experience is from too. lol

Yeah i got rid of mine 2 weeks ago...

Nothing against Subaru, insurance rates we're killing me, and my gas mileage was garbage but I blame that on me, a 4 grand turbo/FMIC kit will do that...
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:59 PM   #19
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Yeah i got rid of mine 2 weeks ago...

Nothing against Subaru, insurance rates we're killing me, and my gas mileage was garbage but I blame that on me, a 4 grand turbo/FMIC kit will do that...
Damn you can't beat the sound of one though... Mmmm :P
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:29 PM   #20
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I've heard, but can't verify it - that the bottom end of the 4.0 is too weak for a super or turbo charger.
It creates a clearance problem - the rods hanging out the bottom of your oil pan catch on everything.
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Old 02-20-2011, 06:43 PM   #21
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I thought it had forged pistons? No
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:32 PM   #22
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It's the strength of the bottom end of the rods that are weak. I've seen 4 or 5 4.0's that came apart there - and they were stock. With the extra pressure a boost would give, it may be too much.

I haven't heard the same problem with a stroker - maybe someone can chip in?
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Old 02-20-2011, 07:56 PM   #23
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It's the strength of the bottom end of the rods that are weak. I've seen 4 or 5 4.0's that came apart there - and they were stock. With the extra pressure a boost would give, it may be too much.

I haven't heard the same problem with a stroker - maybe someone can chip in?
the bottom end of the 4.0L is actually quite strong...except the piston skirts...which seem to be the primary failure point for the 4.0L's bottom end. its got flat top pistons and responds well to a little boost tho.

as for strokers, theres all sorts of rumors floating around the interwebnets about their reliability and such.

the take home message on strokers is simple - have someone VERY knowledgable about the 4.0L build it. Period. If you don't lube the cam with the right stuff upon install, you'll burn it up on the first start. If you don't use the right valve springs matched to the cam, you'll burn up the cam in a few hundred miles. If you don't run ZDDP additive, you'll burn up the cam. Some spin bearings. What most debate over is the rod length...whether you use long rods or short rods. If you use the 4.2L short rods, you can use stock pistons or off the shelf pistons, but you get a "worse" angle from the crank to the pin. If you use 4.0L long rods, you get a similar angle to stock, but you need custom made pistons. The long rod requires pistons with custom pin height, and you end up needing to dish those custom pistons to lower the compression ratio...but you need to pay attention to piston head thickness, because you can get thin here...depending on your deck height.

That brings up the next thing - deck height. Assuming after you disassemble your 4.0L and you don't need to deck the block or mill the head, your deck height will probably be fine. If your block or head isn't flat, and it needs to be decked, then you'll be dishing the pistons and playing with pin heights to obtain a reasonable deck height.

You'll see strokers that have died on startup, some last 10 miles, some last 2000 miles, some last 10,000 miles, and some last 100k miles or more. It really depends who and how the motor was built. You need an expert to do this, who understands all the little funky stuff involved with the 4.0L/4.2L hybrid. As long as its built correctly, with cam health, compression ratio, deck height and pin height in mind, the 4.6/4.7L stroker will last just as long as the 4.0L would. Call up ATK, Golen and Hesco if you want more info on strokers, they've both been building them for years and can talk you through all this stuff. If I was to go stroker, I'd probably buy an ATK stroker engine.

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Old 02-20-2011, 10:06 PM   #24
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the bottom end of the 4.0L is actually quite strong...except the piston skirts...
Thanks for all the info.

Its good to see you on WF instead of that 'other' forum (JF) overrun my guys pitching their friends products while claiming to be "hardcore" wheelers instead of shop owners, in order to avoid paying the vendor fees.
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:33 AM   #25
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Thank you guys so much for the answers! I've decided to go with the hypertech max energy programmer. I know it won't give me 40 but maybe 15 is all I need. Maybe just get a little oooof spa.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:20 AM   #26
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Thank you guys so much for the answers! I've decided to go with the hypertech max energy programmer.
Tom, I doubt you'll notice any difference whatsoever with that except at wide-open-throttle and at near redline rpms. Personally, I'd keep the engine stock as our Jeeps aren't really meant for racing. If you need more power, perhaps your tire diameter is bigger than stock and you simply need to regear your axles to a lower ratio which can provide a serious boost to power.
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Old 02-21-2011, 10:38 AM   #27
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hypertech max energy programmer
complete waste of money....give me the money instead, i'll send you a old brick...you'll get the same thing in the end
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Old 02-21-2011, 07:06 PM   #28
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Damn you can't beat the sound of one though... Mmmm :P
Haha yeah man keepin it real the sound of the boxer motor is orgasmic.....
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Old 04-02-2012, 07:40 AM   #29
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i have been researching s/c for the 2.5 and am in the process of installing one now on my wrangler and i feel comfortable with 5lb boost no intercooler and ftc-1 and enricher. there are many of these kits out there for sale since they were popular aruond 10 years ago. i bought mine for 1200 with the enricher and ftc-1. eaton superchargers are on all kinds of production vehicles and if you have the patience to reprgram your fuel curve you will get awesome power.

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