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Old 09-02-2010, 12:45 AM   #1
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Swap gears, axle...what to do??

I have a 2000 TJ with Dana 30/35 and 3.07's (EPA idiots). I am running 31's (BFG A/t's) and will probably never go bigger. I don't want to spend a bunch of money replacing parts to try to get it right. What would make the most sense? Should I look for 4.10's in the junkyard? Should I replace the entire system with salvaged 30 and 35 from a 4 cyl wrangler? My rig only has 70,000 miles on it and I use it as a daily driver and trail ride on the weekends. Nothing too serious, but I do climb some mine dumps and give it hell to get through some mud holes to get to my favorite fishing spots. Is the Dana 35 such a crappy rear end that I should look at for a Dana 44 or Ford 8.8? I would like to go the cheapest route that will yield me the best outcome. I know there are alot of threads on this issue, but all of them talk about running bigger tires...33's...35's. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Old 09-02-2010, 04:13 PM   #2
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If you know for sure that you will not go bigger than 31 inch tires then a Dana 35 will probably be fine. Giving it hell through the mud can break any drive train though - espcially a Dana 35. So be careful. The problem is a lot of folks (me included) will tell you that a D35 is not a part that you should ever invest money into. Your Dana 30 in the front should be fine.

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Old 09-02-2010, 05:52 PM   #3
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I guess the crux of my dilema is do i buy new gears (if I go with 4.10's) and will i just need to buy the gears or will i have to buy a new differential case, etc...? Would it be better to find a junk yard 4 cylinder model and buy the whole D 30 and 35 (provided they already have the 4.10's)? I'm assuming swapping the entire d 35 and 30 would be easier than swapping gears (I have never torn apart or rebuilt one). I guess I'm starting to figure this one out... I would probably have to pay someone to do the gear swap. Anyone else have any input?
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:57 PM   #4
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You will need new carriers to make the jump from 3.07 to 4.10's. You can get an open carrier for 60 - 80 bucks I believe. If you can find the factory 4.10's sitting around somewhere that would prolly be the ticket, provided you can get them for a good deal.

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Old 09-02-2010, 06:01 PM   #5
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You will need new carriers to make the jump from 3.07 to 4.10's. You can get an open carrier for 60 - 80 bucks I believe. If you can find the factory 4.10's sitting around somewhere that would prolly be the ticket, provided you can get them for a good deal.

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If you go this route you will also have an extra set of shafts just in case.Swapping out a broken shaft is only and hour or so and no big deal.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:36 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help. I should just sell it and buy a Rubicon...LOL
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:42 PM   #7
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Minn, I am in exactly the same dellima boat as you. I, too, am running the horrid D30/35 3.07 combo. But add 33's! Now, I wheel like Grandma in 4WLo, so I am not too concerned with snapping an axle. I think much of the ado about the weak D35 is anecdotal, or can be chocked up to overzealous wheeling. Sure, you may snap an axle, but it is not the end of the world (just the end of the day!).

I am (was?) zeroing in on upping my rings to 4.10/4.11. That's gonna cost a lot. I, too, considered finding some 4cy axles already geared so. Dunno how easy it will be to do this, as I'd be suspicious of most junkyard Heeps and crash damage.

Then I thought about getting a Dana 44 axle and swapping it for the rear 35, maybe finding one 3.73 or 4.11. Then I'd only have to regear the front D30.

There is also the Superior D35 axle upgrade kit, that eliminates the weak C clip design of the existing design. That's putting cash into the D35 as Ken was wary of. Like $600 bucks or so. And you still have to regear. I gather a used D44 axle will run about a grand.

I'm almost to the point where I'm willing to live with the 3.07s and may just strengthen the axles of my D35 rear. I wheel very carefully, so I just don't know if the $1000ish it would cost me to regear and still be stuck with the "weak" D35 is worth it all. Sure, it sucks on the Interstate, but I don't DD it all that much. And on the trails, the 3.07s don't seem too bad. Might put the extra cash into an Aussie for the front and stronger axles in the D35. Turkey Bay yes, but MOAB for me never.

Just some rambling. I was going to devote some tax return next year to regearding, but I just don't know what to do now.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:49 PM   #8
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I went trough this debate over and over. I have a 97 sport with 33's and the D30/35 w/ 3.07's. There are pros and cons to all. I chose the SA Super 35 Kit. It is IMO the option with the least than can go wrong. I also got 4.56 gears for both.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:51 PM   #9
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If I was running 31's I would not change, swap or upgrade the D35 at all only regear. You can have it done for a grand or less.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:57 PM   #10
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Yeah, I tend to agree. For two grand I can regear, upgrade the D35 axles and add an Aussie locker in the front. Or so.....
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:11 PM   #11
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I paid $1595 for the SA Super 35 (30 spline) kit w/ DL. 4.56 gears for both D30/35 and two master install kits shipped.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:15 PM   #12
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Labor?
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:17 PM   #13
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I'll do it myself.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:26 PM   #14
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But gears are so hard to set right. Many of us don't have that expertise, so there goes another grand?
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:28 PM   #15
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I have a 4 popper with the 4.10 I just carry an extra set of axels and a broken axel only costs me about an hour of wheelin. Why screw with it when the weak link is the quickest and cheapest fix.?
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:30 PM   #16
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Go to napa or any parts store and ask around for guys that build drag cars or similiar. Give him a call tell him what you are doing and ask if he knows anyone. Usually $500 and case of cold beer works for me.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:49 PM   #17
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Yeah, I tend to agree. For two grand I can regear, upgrade the D35 axles and add an Aussie locker in the front. Or so.....
You can get a set of used Rubicon axles w/ lockers and pumps for around that price.
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Old 09-05-2010, 03:45 PM   #18
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Where? Been looking on eBay and CL, nothing in surrounding states. 42038.
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Old 09-05-2010, 04:43 PM   #19
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Good luck finding axles, regearing and adding lockers to a TJ with 3.07's for less $2000 installed. I have been down that road. The SA Super 35 kit is the best option IMO.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:03 PM   #20
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Where? Been looking on eBay and CL, nothing in surrounding states. 42038.
The cheapest Rubi axle I found at a junk yard was $1150. Still would need a pump and switch and the installation. Would still need to regear the front. The D44 I found had drum brakes not disc. The axles with disc brakes were much more and did not come complete.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:14 PM   #21
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The D44 I found had drum brakes not disc.
Properly adjusted and with good shoes, your Jeep will brake the same with rear drum brakes as it will with rear disk brakes. Rear brakes have a minimal effect on braking. I confirmed that years ago when I converted my rear D44's drum brakes to disk brakes and I noticed a big fat nothing.
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Old 09-05-2010, 05:26 PM   #22
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I have an 01 with the 3.07s and i am running 31s, also a DD. I get along fine with that combo. If you need more steam use low range. I have also been told more than once that I am stupid.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:54 AM   #23
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The SA Super 35 D35 kit, in 30 spline, HAS to be installed with a locker, correct? I see they market a 30 spline kit such as Superior Axle M35 Super Eliminator C-Clip Eliminator Kit 90-06 Y that says nothing about a locker. Nick, is this the same kit you installed sans the Detroit? I am really not interested in locking the D35. These kits run under $600. C

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Good luck finding axles, regearing and adding lockers to a TJ with 3.07's for less $2000 installed. I have been down that road. The SA Super 35 kit is the best option IMO.
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Old 09-07-2010, 08:56 PM   #24
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Low range is fine if you are wheeling. 70 MPH might be a bit taxing... Highway driving in 5th gear (and 31" tires) is where the 3.07's are troublesome.
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Old 09-07-2010, 09:38 PM   #25
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The SA Super 35 D35 kit, in 30 spline, HAS to be installed with a locker, correct? I see they market a 30 spline kit such as Superior Axle M35 Super Eliminator C-Clip Eliminator Kit 90-06 Y that says nothing about a locker. Nick, is this the same kit you installed sans the Detroit? I am really not interested in locking the D35. These kits run under $600. C
I believe it is but a phone call is cheep insurance.

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