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Old 08-26-2010, 09:07 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The only two areas I will use synthetics are in the transfer case and transmission.

I specifically avoid the use of synthetics in my axles (for a specific reason) and don't use synthetic oil in my engine because I don't live in a cold enough climate (like Buffalo NY or North Dakota) to take advantage of synthetic's benefit there in those types of conditions.
Why not in the axles??

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Old 08-27-2010, 11:32 AM   #32
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It's nothing special, and its purple color comes only from a short-lived dye that has been added to it.
But it's still "Royal".

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Old 08-27-2010, 11:35 AM   #33
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Actually RP makes the best power steering fluid in the world...I have run it for years in my crawlers and it will not boil out....everything else I tried boiled over and I made a mess and had no steering.
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Old 08-27-2010, 11:42 AM   #34
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Why not in the axles??
Because, and this was very surprising to those who conducted the tests, the axle's ring & pinion gears were shown to run significantly hotter with synthetic gear lubes. Currie Enterprises was seeing some unexplained R&P failures in their custom axles that was getting expensive for them since they were being repaired under warranty. It took them a while but they finally learned those with failed axles (and they are admittedly EXTREMELY hard-core users) had switched out the mineral-base Torco gear lube Currie was filling them with for synthetic gear lubes.

IR (infrared temperature) tests showed the pumpkin itself was cooler when filled with synthetic gear lube which was even more puzzling. They finally built a special axle where they could measure the temperature of the R&P gears themselves as well as the gear lube temp. What shocked them was that the gears themselves were running substantially hotter when in the synthetic gear lube while the gear lube itself was cooler. They ultimately learned that the synthetic gear lube did not have as good of an ability to extract (sink) heat out of the gears as well as the mineral-based gear lubes did.

With that surprising find, custom axle builders like Currie have now changed their warranty policies to require the use of mineral-based gear lubes. They will void the warranty of any returned axle they find has been filled with a synthetic gear lube.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:09 PM   #35
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I've read some have switched between types, I thought once synthetic is used, you have to stick with it? Incorrect? As far as motor oil.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:15 PM   #36
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I've read some have switched between types, I thought once synthetic is used, you have to stick with it? Incorrect? As far as motor oil.
Nope, having to stay with one or the other is nothing more than an old wive's tale. You can switch back and forth, mix them, add a quart of one when it had been previously filled with the other, etc.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:21 PM   #37
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That's interesting - that the synthetics don't transfer the heat as well.

Going beyond that, back to the engine - a lot of the engine cooling is done by the oil. It carries the heat from the bearings and a little from the head.

If it doesn't transfer heat as well, I wonder if the excess heat causes premature wear there too?
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:26 PM   #38
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That's interesting - that the synthetics don't transfer the heat as well.

Going beyond that, back to the engine - a lot of the engine cooling is done by the oil. It carries the heat from the bearings and a little from the head.

If it doesn't transfer heat as well, I wonder if the excess heat causes premature wear there too?
I have wondered about that myself but not too much... since I don't use synthetic oil in my engine either.
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Old 08-27-2010, 01:38 PM   #39
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I don't either...just my p/s pump that's it
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:33 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
The only two areas I will use synthetics are in the transfer case and transmission.

I specifically avoid the use of synthetics in my axles (for a specific reason) and don't use synthetic oil in my engine because I don't live in a cold enough climate (like Buffalo NY or North Dakota) to take advantage of synthetic's benefit there in those types of conditions.
Jerry,
is synthetic supposed to be used in Rubicon differentials?

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Old 08-28-2010, 08:50 PM   #41
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what about using Dino 5w30 for cold conditions vs synth
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Old 08-29-2010, 09:40 AM   #42
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what about using Dino 5w30 for cold conditions vs synth
5W-20/30 should be fine, it probably says that in your Owner Manual. 10W-30 is a less flowable for cold starts, so they say, but strangely enough, the 4.0 L V6 in the minivans calls for 10W-30 all year round.
It seems that there are flowability additives involved. When you compare the cold temperature pour points for various 10W-30s, you will notice a difference, like -33F for conventional Valvoline and -30F for Pennzoil.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:06 AM   #43
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Jerry,
is synthetic supposed to be used in Rubicon differentials?

TC
The owner's manual only mentions synthetic when it says to use a heavier weight gear lube for towing but it's not required for warranty purposes. Personally, I use an 85W-140 mineral-based GL-5 gear lube made by Torco and purchased from Currie in my Rubicon axles. That also has the higher viscosity recommended for towing or hard use.

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what about using Dino 5w30 for cold conditions vs synth
Depends on how cold it is. If it is SUPER-cold, like they get in areas like North Dakota or similar climates, I'd go synthetic. Where I live in SOCAL, it's never cold enough that I would need a synthetic oil for the engine. If I lived in my local mountains where it snows but it never gets super cold, I'd run a 5W-30 dino oil without a second thought.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:28 AM   #44
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so how often should i be changing my 95 4.0L YJ's oil with 109XXX miles?
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:30 AM   #45
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I'd go 5K
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:53 AM   #46
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I'd go 5K
I agree, 3K intervals were invented by places like JiffyLube to increase their revenues. The only time I would change my oil sooner than 5K miles is if I was wheeling in some extremely dusty conditions.
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:50 AM   #47
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Here's what Castrol says about viscosity grades to use versus temperatures. Motor oil viscosity - Castrol Motor Oil
The Owner Manual for your vehicle is the recommended guide.
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Old 08-29-2010, 12:52 PM   #48
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Here's what the Owner Manual for the 2004 TJ says:
2.4L: 5W-30 preferred for all temperatures, can use 10W-30 above 0F.

4.0L: 10W-30 preferred and to be used above 0F, use 5W-30 below 0F and can be used up to freezing 32F.

10W-30 has been used in my area for lots of years so I wouldn't get too concerned about a few days of below 0F weather. Like I said in a previous Post, it's the recommended grade year round for the 4.0L V6.
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:38 PM   #49
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What about vehicle storage, or periods of down time, and the use of synthetic motor oil? Would conventional oil be a better choice?
Saw this regarding a two stroke aircraft engine:
Quote:
Synthetic oil should only be used by those who operate their engine nearly every day. Even when shut down, air is constantly circulating through a 2-stroke engine; it is never sealed like a 4-stroke engine. Even though it has excellent lubricating properties, a synthetic oil does not effectively protect a stopped 2-stroke engine against corrosion: it tends to attract moisture and will run off the parts rather than leave a protective coating.
I don't use synthetic motor motor oil as a rule (I may top up with it if I have some around) but would have concerns about its "stick-to-it-ness" with regard to vehicle down time. After all, it is more flowable so it likely doesn't stay on as a coating as well as conventional oil. Makes sense but oil companies don't tell you that in their hype. That would be a good question to ask Mobil at https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English..._Homepage.aspx
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:57 PM   #50
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Here's what the Owner Manual for the 2004 TJ says:
2.4L: 5W-30 preferred for all temperatures, can use 10W-30 above 0F.

4.0L: 10W-30 preferred and to be used above 0F, use 5W-30 below 0F and can be used up to freezing 32F.

10W-30 has been used in my area for lots of years so I wouldn't get too concerned about a few days of below 0F weather. Like I said in a previous Post, it's the recommended grade year round for the 4.0L V6.
No one has a 4.0L V6 in their Jeep. Do you mean 4.0L inline 6?
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:12 PM   #51
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No one has a 4.0L V6 in their Jeep. Do you mean 4.0L inline 6?
No, but since 10W-30 is recommended by Chrysler to lubricate the more sophisticated 4.0L V6 year round, then it should be fine for the work horse 4.0L inline engine year round as well.
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:01 AM   #52
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I always use Castrol GTX-High Milage 10w-30 with a Wix or Mopar filter
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:44 AM   #53
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I always use Castrol GTX-High Milage 10w-30 with a Wix or Mopar filter
Sounds like a good combination. Here's a photo of a dissected WIX oil filter. The Mopars are WIX (white) in Canada, Purolator (black) in the US. Purolator filters have a string around the filter media usually.
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