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Old 03-12-2011, 11:50 PM   #1
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T-stat and gasket woes!

Approximately three months ago replaced the thermostat, gasket, temp sender.
Here is the link concerning the how/why:
Requesting help with Coolant issue - JeepForum.com

After replacing the thermostat, gasket, temp sender I noticed intermittently at 1st and then with more regularity that I was getting an antifreeze smell in the jeep with the heater blowing. I also would get the strong sweet smell when standing next to the engine bay with the hood down and engine running.

It also so seemed to be Air Temperature dependent too.
As the ambient Air Temperature rose outside the smell would get stronger and colder temperatures would show less smell.

Approximately 1 1/2 months ago did a search of this and other forums and chose to put dye in the system.

Found that the housing where the thermostat gasket/housing is bolted to the block is/was leaking and replaced the gasket. Also, replaced the upper radiator hose clamps.

Waited and retested....

Same difficulty...Replaced gasket and cleaned all surfaces. Still weeping.

Redid it again and put a new thermostat and gasket in and cleaned it again.

Just went out tonight to check on it after running the jeep for a week and it is still showing small drips right under the housing.





It is very small drip/drip/drip/drip spot/s in a consistent pattern with a hazy powder behind it.
It is not excessive dripping/running or pouring out. It seem to be when under pressure and always at the bottom side furthest away from the mounting hardware (i.e. bolts).

What to do?


This thing is driving me nuts!
It just makes NO sense.... The gasket is new...the T-stat is new... The housing and block are clean (i.e. razor blade and scouring pad)....

Help Please!!!!!

C.

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Old 03-13-2011, 01:59 AM   #2
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I would take it back apart and make sure you don't have any small cracks in the housing that is allowing coolant to seep out. Never hurts to take some fine emery cloth to both surfaces, then clean them good with some brake clean or lacquer thinner. You also want to make sure you have no coolant that is weeping into the gasket area while you reassemble. I would use a gasket with some RTV on both the block side and housing side and sandwich the gasket in between.

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Old 03-13-2011, 01:39 PM   #3
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Thanks for the posting.

I addressed the razor / scrubby pad cleaning above.... But I do agree it is worth trying the process again with a fine emery cloth or the like. I'll have to check the housing more thoroughly but the last time I had it apart it was in excellent shape. Also I've tried the exact method your hilighting and it did not work either.

C.
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:02 PM   #4
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Change out the housing $20 at autozone. Worth a shot?
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Old 03-13-2011, 04:12 PM   #5
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Also when the housing is off lay it on a flat surface with sand paper under it and re-machine it. Its probably warped.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:55 AM   #6
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Hi guys,
Spent better part of today working on "Silver"...
Inspected everything closely and cleaned all surfaces extra good.
Bought a brand new FelPro gasket and installed it along with a brand new Napa T-stat.... Ugh! Lol! The T-Stat would not open. There was zero leaking of course...
Temp Sensor working great and so was the gasket...just not the new Napa T-Stat.

This really blows!

I'm going to get it replaced tomorrow and pick up another gasket and try it again.
Housing is in great shape.

C.
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Old 03-25-2011, 03:14 PM   #7
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The saga continues.... Lol!

I have since replaced the gasket and thermostat to NO avail. Tried the sanding it on flat surface and re-cleaned the housing and surface on engine extra picky. Bought a brand new handful of Stant gaskets and Copper Hi-Temp 700#deg. RTV and red/blue loctite!

All new Antifreeze and re-did absolutely everything over.
On 032511 took it to nearby shop (I want to say right now- they were really kind and professional) and they pressure tested the system for FREE! Lol! I was amazed at the kindness. GUP's in Racine, WI. gets a ataboy!

At the suggestion went and got another new housing and re-did it all again. NO RTV! NO other crap.... Just the new housing from O'rielly and Stant gasket I had. I have a new T-Stat.

Just button it up! It is now a wait and see...

Got about 30 hrs. into this whole to do... Ugh!

P.S.
This vehicle seems to be one of the most difficult to work on.

On a side note changed over to my summer tires and rims and rebuilt the front D/S.

C.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:32 PM   #8
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RTV is a gasket maker...try just using RTV with NO gaskets, follow the directions on it for preparation/bead size/etc. Install it and torque bolts down to specified torque and before putting coolant back in the engine, let it sit and cure for as long as possible.

Then fill her up and check for leaks...I went this route on a transmission pan that had a bolt stripped out in a location I couldn't heli-coil without ripping my exhaust off and it stopped my leak entirely (which was pretty bad), even with no bolt installed in that corner.

My buddy uses some kind of silicone on his customer's vehicles that he swears works even better than RTV. He says when that stuff cures, you can loosen all the bolts and the parts STILL won't leak. lol
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Old 03-25-2011, 11:27 PM   #9
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RTV on a transmission pan? That's asking for trouble. Small schards of the RTV eventually come loose, circulate through the tiny passages in the trans, eventually plugging it, causing all kinds of problems.

But since it's already done, probably best to leaving it like it is for now. Next time the pan's off, be careful to get ALL the RTV out.
Trans pan gaskets are best put on dry, or wipe a small amount of ATF on the trans side to help it properly seat.

For the stripped bolt hole - Permatex? - has an epoxy similar to JB WELD for rethreading. You put it in, then put the bolt in coated with a release agent. After it cures the bolt acts like it was never stripped. Never used it myself, but it sounds good.

The T-Stat - when you put the housing on, are you slowly tightening the 2 bolts in small increments equally until they are tight? (With the hoses and belt off and out of the way.) It's in a tight space, it's easy to tighten them unequally, warping the housing slightly. Treat it like you are installing a head gasket.

I've had them leak there before - I used the gray RTV - Permatex? - with good success. Chrysler/Jeep sells a gray RTV that they recommend for diff covers, -- good stuff! Better than the Permatex.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrich View Post
RTV on a transmission pan? That's asking for trouble. Small schards of the RTV eventually come loose, circulate through the tiny passages in the trans, eventually plugging it, causing all kinds of problems.

But since it's already done, probably best to leaving it like it is for now. Next time the pan's off, be careful to get ALL the RTV out.
Trans pan gaskets are best put on dry, or wipe a small amount of ATF on the trans side to help it properly seat.

For the stripped bolt hole - Permatex? - has an epoxy similar to JB WELD for rethreading. You put it in, then put the bolt in coated with a release agent. After it cures the bolt acts like it was never stripped. Never used it myself, but it sounds good.

The T-Stat - when you put the housing on, are you slowly tightening the 2 bolts in small increments equally until they are tight? (With the hoses and belt off and out of the way.) It's in a tight space, it's easy to tighten them unequally, warping the housing slightly. Treat it like you are installing a head gasket.

I've had them leak there before - I used the gray RTV - Permatex? - with good success. Chrysler/Jeep sells a gray RTV that they recommend for diff covers, -- good stuff! Better than the Permatex.
This was on my old truck... my goal for the Jeep is just to not strip any bolts out so I don't have to use RTV anywhere...it's too messy for my liking. I'll have to remember that trick about rethreading a stripped hole...I bet that would work for stuff that doesn't require super high torque.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:01 AM   #11
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i used a gasket eliminator, permatex brand called "right stuff". this product is great!
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:30 PM   #12
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make sure the hose running to the heater core isn't leaking at the thermostat housing.....back side facing the engine. My hose was in bad shape. I didn't realize it when I did a thermostate housing change (new stat and gasket). It leaked and I spent a day tracking it down only to find it was the heater hose.

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