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Old 11-26-2011, 12:10 AM   #1
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That awful tubrust...

What's the best way to treat this tub rust? I just noticed how bad it has somehow become when I pulled my heavy rubber molded mats up and found the moisture. I steel brushed some and my next move was grinding and then bedlining, is there a better way to go about this? What's involved in using Por15?
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Old 11-26-2011, 07:20 AM   #2
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Wire brush the crap out of it and use rustoleum or the better, POR15. That takes a lot of prep and work. But it is your tub and specifically your floor pan.
here is their link to quick directions if you wanna take a look.
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/n...directions.pdf

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Old 11-26-2011, 08:10 AM   #3
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POR15 is the way to go, but the prep is key... follow to the letter of the law...
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:49 AM   #4
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Wow this stuff has some serious directions
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Old 11-26-2011, 09:56 AM   #5
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Its a serious product. And really the best way to go. Stuff is tuff as hell and will last forever and take all kinds of abuse if applied properly. Guys use it on roll bars bush bars, and boat racks and years later they still look great.
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Old 11-26-2011, 10:01 AM   #6
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Do I need to remove all rust in my tub before applying?
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Old 11-26-2011, 12:32 PM   #7
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As much as you can. Then use the metal ready prep. then have at it.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:51 PM   #8
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Of all the hardware stores I called I couldn't grab any por15 today so is went with another brand because this is urgent so we'll see how it works and if I need something stronger I'll order some online
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:03 PM   #9
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Mine looked just like this!!!

I hit both sides with a wire brush wire wheel and POR 15. I used the degreaser and the etch ore product. Pain in the ass.

Frankly, hitting it with rustoleum primer and topper is probably nearly as good for less cost and effort. Mine took 12 years to get rusty, I bet it will last another 12 with rustoleum though probably last forever with POR.

Had me and the previous owner used good rubber mats, the rust would never have been there in the first place.
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Old 11-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #10
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I use the quadratec super heavy duty mats and i guess I trapped moisture under them and rotted my pans right out, now the trouble is finding the source of moisture...
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:40 PM   #11
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Do you have the kind with the lip?

Previous owner had flat ones and carpet was wet all winter.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:14 AM   #12
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Yeah they're lipped and molded to fit the tub, the moisture was only under the mats so that's what prevented it from drying and caused the rust
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:36 AM   #13
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I wonder how it got there then. Makes a good point about periodically removing to dry up.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:10 PM   #14
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After applying rust treatment, and then with a first coat of paint. I'm hoping that's the last of the rust I'll be seeing.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:17 PM   #15
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now that your rust looks like its gone. go get a good spray in liner to cover it up and it should do the trick for that crappy rust =)
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:11 PM   #16
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The other stuff?

Any thoughts on the difference POR15 and other products like Chassis Saver and Rust Encapsulator in terms of effectiveness and ease of application?
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:23 PM   #17
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I used por15 on my frame last winter. I recently had a brake line go right above the frame. ate right through the top coat, but didn't scratch the por15. Thats some tough stuff.
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Old 11-28-2011, 04:34 PM   #18
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It would seem the more prep work and pricey a product is, the better the results. No free lunch.
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Old 11-28-2011, 06:49 PM   #19
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I started doing some under body and frame grinding today to clean up some rust you can see from a standing view, but I dont think I'm going to do too much because I live in Buffalo and things like my axles, drive shaft and exhaust show no sign of ever being not covered in rust. We'll see, little steps at a time.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:15 PM   #20
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I've tended to use an anti rust inhibitor called rust bullet. I use it on my ancient 79 Cherokee and have had great results with it. It takes a couple of coats (and yes you have to grind down or scrape off the rust flakes first) but overall I've been very happy with the results. It smells like no other though, so you'll have to have a well ventilated garage or apply it in the open air otherwise you might end up reenacting a Cheech and Chong film...

I've really enjoyed the results I've gotten from it....

Rust Inhibitor Paint | Stop Rust | Rust Corrosion Inhibitor | Rust Converter
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:31 PM   #21
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I just started doing the same and my plan is to coat just the front of the tub with rust-oleum and then the rattle can truck bed liner. I was going to do the entire tub but there is no rust any where and the only slight rust I found was the drain holes under the rubber stoppers in the front...nothing like what you have here.

I have to give you guys props for doing the entire tub...it is a lot of work, not hard but tedious. Chasing rust is a never ending battle and my jeep, for being a 97, is in real good shape so I am going to stop chasing it.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:41 PM   #22
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As far as body rust I really have very little, a few specs on the tailgate and on my windshield/door hinges that I'm working on treating because compared to most Jeeps I see around mine is in really nice shape for being an 03 so I'm trying to catch everything I can. Rust chasing is like you said never ending.

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