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Old 04-04-2012, 07:14 PM   #1
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That much for engine coolant?

I was checking the fluids in my jeep yesterday and noticed that the engine coolant was a little low,so i called the local jeep dealership to ask what kind of coolant the '06 tj uses.Well she tells me it uses the Mopar premium pink,so i ask her the price and she say's $24.95.Seeing that i hate to pay that much and to me it looks like the Dex-Cool.Can i use the Dex-Cool instead,or is it a totally different coolant?

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Old 04-04-2012, 07:25 PM   #2
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I was checking the fluids in my jeep yesterday and noticed that the engine coolant was a little low,so i called the local jeep dealership to ask what kind of coolant the '06 tj uses.Well she tells me it uses the Mopar premium pink,so i ask her the price and she say's $24.95.Seeing that i hate to pay that much and to me it looks like the Dex-Cool.Can i use the Dex-Cool instead,or is it a totally different coolant?
Dex Cool is for GM products.

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Old 04-04-2012, 07:29 PM   #3
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Dex-Cool is bad for any vehicle..just ask anyone who has done intake gaskets, heater core replacements, radiators, etc on a Dex-Cool system. That stuff will gel and eat gaskets and such if to much air is allowed in (low coolant level) or if its improperly mixed with water...

The easiest thing and cheapest would be to add a generic coolant that can be mixed with all others, although it will probably be green in color.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:52 PM   #4
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Use the Mopar stuff or Zerex GO-5. Those are the only ones approved for use. Penny wise pound foolish right, you will cause cooling issues in the future if you add Dexcool. Now if you totally flush the system multiple times you can run the old school green, but by the time you flush and fill with that you have spent more than the 25 the Mopar stuff runs.
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Old 04-04-2012, 07:56 PM   #5
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You could use the "mixes with any type" coolant. BUT and It's a big one.
If your jeep is still under factory warranty, use what they say, and keep the receipt.

Don't give them an out if you have a coolant related failure down the road.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:00 PM   #6
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use Zerex GO5, it's half that price and is Chrysler approved.

whatever you do, get an approved HOAT antifreeze...do NOT use Dex-Cool.
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Old 04-04-2012, 08:03 PM   #7
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Definitely avoid Dexcool. That stuff, as already said above, is bad news. And while I'm a big fan of Zerex G-05, I'm not sure if it is compatible with what is in there now. I probably wouldn't add G-05 without doing a complete drain and flush first. For now, I'd top it off with nothing but distilled water until you can do a complete drain and flush. Not tap water, distilled water. Water cools better than coolant does anyway.
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Old 04-04-2012, 11:54 PM   #8
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Thanks for the heads up guys on the Dex-Cool i thought that was for GM products only,but was'nt sure.You guys are awesome!
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:38 AM   #9
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definitely avoid dexcool. That stuff, as already said above, is bad news. And while i'm a big fan of zerex g-05, i'm not sure if it is compatible with what is in there now. I probably wouldn't add g-05 without doing a complete drain and flush first. For now, i'd top it off with nothing but distilled water until you can do a complete drain and flush. Not tap water, distilled water. Water cools better than coolant does anyway.

x2
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:18 AM   #10
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What happened to the trusty Prestone we have used all our lives?
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Old 04-05-2012, 12:48 PM   #11
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What happened to the trusty Prestone we have used all our lives?
You gotta understand there are three different chemistries of antifreeze now...IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology), OAT (Organic Acid Technology) and HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology). Don't mix them together or you get a chemistry lab in your radiator and may end up destroying your entire cooling system, maybe even the engine itself. Btw, all the "long life" Prestone products are OAT...so not appropriate for a vehicle that specs HOAT.

John Deere, Mercedes, Ford, Chrysler and a bunch of other companies use HOAT from the factory now. GM, and a few other companies, uses OAT (Dex-Cool) from the factory now. IAT is old school "green" everybody is familiar with. If you search online a bit, you'll also find lots of people unhappy with Dex-Cool stuff, even in GM products...

The primary difference between IAT and OAT or HOAT is the anti-corrosion chemicals, not the glycol itself. All antifreeze has chemicals that help resist corrosion in your engine, radiator and cooling system. Those chemicals have a specific lifetime and compatibility. IAT lasts maybe 1-2 yrs, which is why you were always told to flush your coolant every year "back in the day". From an environmental perspective, that's stupid...because you get people dumping poisonous antifreeze in their backyard or down the drain, and contaminating the drinking water supply and killing animals. Also, people that don't know jack squat about vehicle maintenance just leave the antifreeze in there for 10 yrs, then wonder why their vehicle starts overheating and the radiator is leaking/clogged with junk & rust...and you get more environmental impact as antifreeze goes everywhere on the side of the road. So to reduce the environmental impact and maintenance requirements, they developed new, better chemistry. These last ~100k miles and ~5-6 years, depending on the application...but the main idea is you change the fluid less often, you get better corrosion protection and your cooling system lasts longer.

Also remember antifreeze color is IRRELEVANT. It's just a dye...antifreeze can be any color they make it. So you can't use color as a gauge for whether it's IAT, OAT or HOAT. Get what's spec'ed for your vehicle and don't mix the types and you'll be fine.

Here's some reading on the subject: http://www.search-autoparts.com/sear...27/article.pdf

Here's an example from that article:
Quote:

Filling a system with the wrong coolant could cause problems. In a 300-hour test of OAT coolant in a Ford engine designed for HOAT coolant, the water pump impellor and backing plate were seriously damaged by cavitation corrosion.

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Old 09-18-2012, 10:35 AM   #12
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alot of info there.. if doing a complete flush on a 2006 that requires the HOAT..
what would be recommended.. i was told by some that i should just use the prestone 50/50 and not the orange dex cool cause it eats the seals up???

thoughts?

going to completelty flush out the system and change the hoses when doing this..
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Old 09-18-2012, 11:17 AM   #13
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Zerex G-05 is HOAT, works well in our Jeeps, and is generally widely available. That's the stuff I use in my TJ.

And Ragman, on your question about using Prestone, read the first paragraph in UnlimitedLJ04's post immediately above yours. I would not use Prestone for the reason he gave.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:47 PM   #14
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According to Zerex, G-05 is not appropriate for TJ year models prior to 2001.
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Old 09-18-2012, 01:49 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Zerex G-05 is HOAT, works well in our Jeeps, and is generally widely available. That's the stuff I use in my TJ.

And Ragman, on your question about using Prestone, read the first paragraph in UnlimitedLJ04's post immediately above yours. I would not use Prestone for the reason he gave.

Thanks Jerry.. i appreciate the help and info..
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Old 09-18-2012, 02:40 PM   #16
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According to Zerex, G-05 is not appropriate for TJ year models prior to 2001.
Only if it is mixed in with the OE coolant. It works fine if it's a fresh fill after the cooling system is flushed. G-05 is what I used for years in my '97 after I flushed it.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:05 PM   #17
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Only if it is mixed in with the OE coolant. It works fine if it's a fresh fill after the cooling system is flushed. G-05 is what I used for years in my '97 after I flushed it.
Translation: you failed to follow the manufacurer's recommendations (on two counts), nothing catastrophic happend, so it had to be a great idea. Assuming that it "worked fine" is a totally different concept than knowing that it worked fine.
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Old 09-18-2012, 03:46 PM   #18
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You're entitled to your opinion though you should be aware that Valvoline/Zerex disagrees with you.

So aside from your obvious personal purpose in what you said, you really should call Valvoline who owns the Zerex brand and ask their tech support hotline for their advice where you will discover they disagree with your opinion. Here's the #... 800-832-6825. Valvoline/Zerex agrees with me that a good flush with fresh water first is all that is needed to convert an older Jeep to successfuly run G-05.

So it's fine if you disagree with me, I don't really care, but I recommend you finish your argument with Vavoline/Zerex and attempt to convince them they are wrong. Personally, I'll continue doing what Valvoline told me when I asked them years ago about converting my '97 TJ to run G-05.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:14 PM   #19
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Translation: you failed to follow the manufacurer's recommendations (on two counts), nothing catastrophic happend, so it had to be a great idea. Assuming that it "worked fine" is a totally different concept than knowing that it worked fine.
Between 2000 and 2001 absolutely nothing in the stock tj cooling system changed. The only thing that has changed was the switch from 2 rows to 1 row in the beg. of 2000. Again, like Jerry said, the only reason they put that on there is liability from coolant compatibility issues because vast majority of people wouldn't know better. Fully drain and flush your coolant and it's not an issue.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:21 PM   #20
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You're entitled to your opinion though you should be aware that Valvoline/Zerex disagrees with you.

Show me in writing.


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... you really should call Valvoline who owns the Zerex brand and ask their tech support hotline for their advice where you will discover they disagree with your opinion.

I did just that several years ago with reference to a Cherokee. Zerex strongly advised that I stick with the the original IAT coolant. And their published advice still recommends the same.
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Old 09-18-2012, 04:46 PM   #21
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Between 2000 and 2001 absolutely nothing in the stock tj cooling system changed. The only thing that has changed was the switch from 2 rows to 1 row in the beg. of 2000. Again, like Jerry said, the only reason they put that on there is liability from coolant compatibility issues because vast majority of people wouldn't know better. Fully drain and flush your coolant and it's not an issue.
It's entirely possible that you are right. It's unfortunate that the lawyers sometimes trump the engineers.

I am just not willing to turn a blind eye to the manufacturer's recommendation on the basis of hearsay and wishful thinking.

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