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Old 05-02-2012, 05:20 PM   #1
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Time for an Oil Pump? w/vid

Ok i bought a mech oil gauge and after warm up this is what i got... Max 25 psi at 3k rpm and like 1 psi at idle... What do you guys think a new Oil pump? or could something els cause this? i think my next step is to do an engine flush and change the pump out.

btw it only has 153 thousand km and had the head replaced....





THANKS !

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:14 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan420
Ok i bought a mech oil gauge and after warm up this is what i got... Max 25 psi at 3k rpm and like 1 psi at idle... What do you guys think a new Oil pump? or could something els cause this? i think my next step is to do an engine flush and change the pump out.

btw it only has 153 thousand km and had the head replaced....



THANKS !
Mine idles at the same, and only rises while driving, my check gauges light comes off when idling so I'm thinking the pressure sensor or the sending unit, but I'm gonna check the pump too, good luck with yours.

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Old 05-02-2012, 06:20 PM   #3
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Does the oil pressure start at 25 and as the engine warms up drop? It could be a lot of things. I had a bad cam bearing in a MG I use to own. The oil pressure would start at 40 and down to 5 when it got warm.
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:48 PM   #4
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In the vid the jeep is warm and it starts at 10 psi. Yes at cold start it jumps to 40 psi max and as it warms up i get at the very most 25 psi and 1 psi at idle....
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:08 PM   #5
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What year of Jeep is it?
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:59 PM   #6
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1998, 2.5, 150KM, 5spd
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:48 AM   #7
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If I remember correctly, the oil pump doesn't actually determine pressure it just circulates--the clearance of the main bearings determines pressure.
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Old 05-03-2012, 01:20 AM   #8
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Wouldnt i have an oil leak if the mains were out? How do i check them? Ive read that you have to drop the trans to change um out?
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Old 05-03-2012, 06:29 AM   #9
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A easy way to check bearing clearance, well give you a close idea.
Is to use some plastic gauge
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:00 AM   #10
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If you replaced the head, I'm going to assume it was cracked or warped. If it was drove for a while like this, the water leaks into the engine and damages the cam bearings. Damaged cam bearings will cause a loss of oil pressure. Mine is a 2.5 I bought with a cracked head. Previous owner drove it for a long time like that. I replaced the head and managed to squeeze another 7000 miles out of it before it let go. Dropping the new engine in today.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:05 AM   #11
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Main bearings, not rear and front main seals. Would be a major PITA to try and check them without pulling the engine from the vehicle, but could be done.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:39 AM   #12
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How hard are cam bearings to replace? how much does a shop usually charge?
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:56 AM   #13
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Dont know a shop charge, always done it myself. You need a special tool to do the job. I can do it easy with my 4 banger, pull the fan, radiator, and I have plenty of room to do it. Not sure on a 4.0 if the grill would have to come off.
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:22 PM   #14
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Is there a write up anywhere on how to do it? i cant find one
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Old 05-03-2012, 12:33 PM   #15
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I did a thread on ( a 4.0engine rebuild) if you want to see some pix.
But it takes a cam bearing install tool. Then just make sure you use the right Bearing for that position and line up the oil hole.
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:46 PM   #16
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Do i have to remove the head or take the motor out? theres no write up on the 2.5 are they the same as the 4.0?
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Old 05-03-2012, 02:59 PM   #17
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Do i have to remove the head or take the motor out? theres no write up on the 2.5 are they the same as the 4.0?

You can do in the jeep without removing the head. Using a extendable magnet you can fish the lifters up threw the head. Best thing to do is to get a cam kit with new cam, bearings, and lifters.

Remove the fan, shroud, and radiator.
Pull the accessory drives off the front of the engine.
Remove the water pump
remove the harmonic balancer (special puller required)
pull the timing chain cover
remove the timing chain
remove the valve cover
loosen the rocker arms
remove the push rods
using a magnet remove the lifters one at a time (important: if your reusing them, keep them in order of removal)
pull the distributor
remove the cam
using the special tool, removing the bearings
put in new bearings in the right location making sure to line the oiler holes up
replace cam (new one is better)
Reverse procedure.

Might have left out a few steps, but not much. Fairly easy job if you can remember where everything goes. Detailed pics a good service manual will help. Make sure to get gaskets for the timing chain, water pump, thermostat, and valve cover.
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:08 AM   #18
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Anyone els want to add anything?
Im buying a pump tomorrow and will put er in on monday, will update thread


THANKS BUD!!!!!
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:31 AM   #19
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Oil pump, M-81a
Screen, 242s
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:39 PM   #20
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Oil pump, M-81a
Screen, 242s

you got it only problem now is i dont know how to get the pickup line into the pump.... shes a damn ass tight fit! any good tips???

heres wat i came up with

1. get a wrench to fit the lip and pound er in..
2. freeze the pickup and use a decal remover to heat the pump..
3. sand pickup ""a little"" and put it in with some RTV

whatcha think??
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Old 05-07-2012, 07:13 AM   #21
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Just caught this, but using a rubber mallet and tapping it in with a wrench works.
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:18 AM   #22
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I just use a 5/8 wrench and a hamer
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:21 AM   #23
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Sorry (hammer)
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:16 PM   #24
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Ok everything is dropped cleaned and ready for pump, but i noticed that there is a little play in all the push rod crank bearings? is this normal??
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:32 PM   #25
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Um. Connecting rods? That are attached to the crank and go up to the pistons?

Yes. They should have some side clearance.
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Old 05-07-2012, 05:48 PM   #26
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thanks
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:16 AM   #27
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Alright well, the pickup line was clogged and there were very fine metal flakes in the pan. All in all the jeep runs better, but at warm up it still only gets like 4 psi at idle.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:20 PM   #28
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Going back to the original post, you say you replaced the head. I'm assuming it was cracked? Water leaking in will damage your bearings quickly. The 1st culprit of low oil pressure after a cracked/damaged head is cam bearings. The only issue with that is it could have also damaged your main bearings. Changing the cam and bearings is not that big of a job if your mechanically inclined, but if that does not do it then your on to the rod and main bearings. If you do that, you need to have your crank turned and while not necessary, it's best to have the rods checked. To do that, you need to pull the rods and pistons, if you do that, you might as well rebuild it. If you do that, by the time you buy all parts, gaskets, machine work, and time in it, it's cheaper to replace it. I just had to replace mine, since I had a new head last year (I knew my engine was not going to last) I just bought a short block. It cost me 640 and included a new oil pump, lifters, and complete gasket kit. It was bored .30 over, the crank turned, and depending on the condition, the cam either polished, ground, or replaced. Mine was replaced. I bought mine from City Motor Supply. I have bought multiple engines from them over the years and never had a problem with them. The short block is 600 and the rest will be shipping depending on your location. I was only 20 miles from one of their normal stops, so they only charged me 40 to get it and bring it back.


If you have the money to have that done, I would go that route, if not, try replacing the cam, cam bearings, and lifters and hope for the best.

If you want more info on the engine company, just let me know.
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:04 PM   #29
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Only prob is i live on Vancouver Island and i dont think that place would ship here. I found a local place but they want $1800!!!
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:44 AM   #30
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Probably be cheaper to do it yourself then. Having it bored and the pistons pulled is not mandatory, just better. If your on a budget, order up a new cam kit for it and slap that in. Like I said, it can be done in the Jeep. Just make sure if you replace the cam to replace the lifters, if you keep the cam and just replace the bearing, make sure the lifters go back in the SAME hole they came from.

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