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Old 02-07-2012, 08:54 PM   #1
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Time to lift LJ 33" or 35"

Im looking to put 33's or 35's on my LJ, This is my DD, I really don't do much wheeling. i drive to the mountains a couple of time a year and that's about it for now. Nothing Crazy

This is my first time putting a lift on a jeep, so Im not sure if this is overkill for want i need.

AEV 3" Springs
Rancho RS9000XL Shocks
JKS Adjustable trackbars Front & Back ( do i really need adjustable? can i use my stock ones? )
JKS Adjustable Bumpstops
Control Arm ( do I have to replace my stock one? and do i need all 8 replaced? )
JKS 1" BL/MML

What else am i missing?

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Old 02-07-2012, 10:14 PM   #2
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yes you can use your stock track bars. the JKS front would need 2" front bumpstop extension anyway to prevent hitting the tie-rod. I'd suggest going with the Currie TJS or TJJ front track bar if you're going to run 2" front bumpstop, or stick with the stocker (weld a 1/8" reinforcement plate on the stock axle side mount and simple drill a new hole to recenter the axle). in the rear you will need a track bar relocation bracket, regardless of whether you get an adjustable track bar or not. The stock bar clears the gas tank mount slightly better, but the JKS will hit unless you move the rear axle forward. instead in the rear, i'd suggest Currie here again - they have apparently come out with a new adjustable rear track bar + bracket combo that clears the gas tank mount better than previous versions, although I haven't seen it myself.

as for control arms, you don't HAVE to replace them, but it is a strongly recommended. I'd suggest Currie, Savvy or Rokmen for those.

with bumpstops you've got a bunch of options...cheap to pricey, all depends how fancy you want to get. theres nothing wrong with the stockers, as long as you extend them properly for the lift shocks.

Also check out the Currie/Savvy 3" lift, which uses springs comparable to the AEV's you're looking at. Might be able to get the whole combo cheaper and easier from Savvy than gathering stuff together from various vendors.

Savvy Offroad

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Old 02-07-2012, 10:31 PM   #3
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For a daily driver I would stay with 33s
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Old 02-07-2012, 10:56 PM   #4
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My daily driver is on 35's and I wouldn't go less if you also wanna go have some fun too...

And remember that you have an LJ not a TJ the 35's under the extra 10" of jeep makes for a great ride and play too...
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Old 02-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
yes you can use your stock track bars. the JKS front would need 2" front bumpstop extension anyway to prevent hitting the tie-rod. I'd suggest going with the Currie TJS or TJJ front track bar if you're going to run 2" front bumpstop, or stick with the stocker (weld a 1/8" reinforcement plate on the stock axle side mount and simple drill a new hole to recenter the axle). in the rear you will need a track bar relocation bracket, regardless of whether you get an adjustable track bar or not. The stock bar clears the gas tank mount slightly better, but the JKS will hit unless you move the rear axle forward. instead in the rear, i'd suggest Currie here again - they have apparently come out with a new adjustable rear track bar + bracket combo that clears the gas tank mount better than previous versions, although I haven't seen it myself.

as for control arms, you don't HAVE to replace them, but it is a strongly recommended. I'd suggest Currie, Savvy or Rokmen for those.

with bumpstops you've got a bunch of options...cheap to pricey, all depends how fancy you want to get. theres nothing wrong with the stockers, as long as you extend them properly for the lift shocks.

Also check out the Currie/Savvy 3" lift, which uses springs comparable to the AEV's you're looking at. Might be able to get the whole combo cheaper and easier from Savvy than gathering stuff together from various vendors.

Savvy Offroad
I don't have the welding resources so i need this to be 100% bolt on. I see a good amount of people using the Currie/Savvy lifts and giving it good reviews. I would love to get one of the lift kits from them but $1800+ is 60% of my budget. I'll checkout the parts you recommended above. What parts can i keep stock for now without messing anything up?
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:14 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by blue6tj View Post
My daily driver is on 35's and I wouldn't go less if you also wanna go have some fun too...

And remember that you have an LJ not a TJ the 35's under the extra 10" of jeep makes for a great ride and play too...
That's nice!
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:14 AM   #7
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Might want to consider gearing too.... some say it is fine, some hate it...
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:14 AM   #8
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What parts can i keep stock for now without messing anything up?
at 3" of lift with the LJ, you won't need an SYE & CV rear driveshaft. that'll save some money.

you don't need JKS bumpstops, which will save some money. properly extended stockers cost about $30 tops (you will need a sawzall, or better yet a band saw).

you don't need to replace the front upper control arms right away...you won't extend them anyway, they'll remain at stock length.

you can buy used wheels on local forums or craigslist, that will save a ton of money. you can even buy used tires if you're careful.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:04 AM   #9
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at 3" of lift with the LJ, you won't need an SYE & CV rear driveshaft. that'll save some money.

you don't need JKS bumpstops, which will save some money. properly extended stockers cost about $30 tops (you will need a sawzall, or better yet a band saw).

you don't need to replace the front upper control arms right away...you won't extend them anyway, they'll remain at stock length.

you can buy used wheels on local forums or craigslist, that will save a ton of money. you can even buy used tires if you're careful.
Thanks UnlimitedLJ04!! You've been a great help.

I have 2 more questions.

1. what's a "stocker"?
2. with a 3" lift and 33", do i need a BL/MML?
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:05 AM   #10
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Might want to consider gearing too.... some say it is fine, some hate it...
I think i need to do this sooner then later.
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #11
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I have 2 more questions.

1. what's a "stocker"?
2. with a 3" lift and 33", do i need a BL/MML?
1. stocker = stock/factory vehicle or stock/factory component. in that context its a stock track bar.

2. yes, i would do the BL+MML. for clearance, so you can run less bumpstop extension for the tire size. the MML will also help with the driveline angles, and later down the road if you decide to get a SYE, you'll be that much more prepared for a tummy tuck.

breakover angle is what hurts the LJ's off-road, and tucking the belly up should be pretty high priority. I installed a high clearance belly skid + BL + MML + gas tank skid + 31s long before ever thinking about a lift and big tires. that combo worked really well for the majority of wheeling in the mountains, where I go. I'd suggest considering that combo strongly...probably less expensive & less hassle than your current plans, no need to regear or change speedo but not as much "cool" factor because the tires are smaller, yet it's equally as capable & functional.

here's stock 30" tires, 1" BL, 1" MML and a JeepMedic tummy tuck & engine skid.

skid is 1/4" steel and 2.25" below the frame vs the stock 4.65".

If you like this route, undercoverfab.com sells some nice tummy tuck & engine skids that would fit the bill, for quite reasonable prices.
www.undercoverfab.com
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:51 AM   #12
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1. "Stocker" is just referring to the stock hardware.

2. Short answer, no. You will be able to clear 33" but you would need more bumpstops than if you had a body lift to keep the tire from hitting your flares. Also consider getting new wheels as your stock ones may rub as they have a lot of backspacing compared to aftermarket wheels.

Not wanting to insult your knowledge but just in case you don't understand backspacing. Backspacing is the distance the mounting surface is from the inside of the wheel. More backspacing will put the wheel more towards the inside of your vehicle while less will put your wheels further outside you vehicle. The main reason this is important is that if you use wide tires they may rub on your frame/fenders/suspension. And with less backspacing they will be spaced out far enough to not interfere.

Other things you may or may not need are extended sway bars and possibly longer brake lines. Easy way is to redrill and tap a bolt hole a few inches lower for the brake hose mount.

You don't need an expensive rear track bar. Get a relocation bracket. Also you don't need those very expensive adjustable bumpstops. Just do some measurements after you mount the tires with the springs out and buy some cheap exact length bumpstops.

Or you can do simple math to estimate how much you need. 33" tires, difference of 4" from stock 29" tires, 2" radius difference. To stop your tire at the same point as stock you would need 2" longer bump stops. Add 1" BL then you may be able to run 1" longer bumpstops. Though once you start putting it less than stock other things may not clear. Like your front track bar, drag link or even running out of travel in your shocks. Best to buy and install the estimated length then, with your springs out and frame on jack stands cycle the axle up and down and see if anything hits and adjust from there.
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Old 02-08-2012, 11:39 AM   #13
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Don't forget the other factor in the bumpstop extension equation, and that is your collapsed shock length. Both tire size and collapsed shock length need to be considered.

Example- When I lifted my LJ: front shocks are .5" longer collapsed, and I went from 30" to 31" tires- .5 bumpstop extension works for both. But the rear shocks are 1.5" longer collapsed, so I needed 1.5" extension regardless of tire size. So given the same shocks, but with 33's, I would have to have 1.5" extensions front and rear.

This is not an exact science, but a starting point. The real test is to flex it out and see what is going on and adjust accordingly. As mentioned, sometimes front trackbars and rear trackbar relocation brackets will dictate bumpstop extensions too.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:54 PM   #14
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1. "Stocker" is just referring to the stock hardware.

2. Short answer, no. You will be able to clear 33" but you would need more bumpstops than if you had a body lift to keep the tire from hitting your flares. Also consider getting new wheels as your stock ones may rub as they have a lot of backspacing compared to aftermarket wheels.

Not wanting to insult your knowledge but just in case you don't understand backspacing. Backspacing is the distance the mounting surface is from the inside of the wheel. More backspacing will put the wheel more towards the inside of your vehicle while less will put your wheels further outside you vehicle. The main reason this is important is that if you use wide tires they may rub on your frame/fenders/suspension. And with less backspacing they will be spaced out far enough to not interfere.

I really didn't understand backspacing and I was just about to do a search on it. RIght now I have MOAB wheels if that makes any difference ( 5" backspacing? )





Other things you may or may not need are extended sway bars and possibly longer brake lines. Easy way is to redrill and tap a bolt hole a few inches lower for the brake hose mount.

You don't need an expensive rear track bar. Get a relocation bracket. Also you don't need those very expensive adjustable bumpstops. Just do some measurements after you mount the tires with the springs out and buy some cheap exact length bumpstops.

Just a relocation bracket would work?

Or you can do simple math to estimate how much you need. 33" tires, difference of 4" from stock 29" tires, 2" radius difference. To stop your tire at the same point as stock you would need 2" longer bump stops. Add 1" BL then you may be able to run 1" longer bumpstops. Though once you start putting it less than stock other things may not clear. Like your front track bar, drag link or even running out of travel in your shocks. Best to buy and install the estimated length then, with your springs out and frame on jack stands cycle the axle up and down and see if anything hits and adjust from there.
Still a little confused on the math part. but this does help.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:57 PM   #15
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1. stocker = stock/factory vehicle or stock/factory component. in that context its a stock track bar.

2. yes, i would do the BL+MML. for clearance, so you can run less bumpstop extension for the tire size. the MML will also help with the driveline angles, and later down the road if you decide to get a SYE, you'll be that much more prepared for a tummy tuck.

breakover angle is what hurts the LJ's off-road, and tucking the belly up should be pretty high priority. I installed a high clearance belly skid + BL + MML + gas tank skid + 31s long before ever thinking about a lift and big tires. that combo worked really well for the majority of wheeling in the mountains, where I go. I'd suggest considering that combo strongly...probably less expensive & less hassle than your current plans, no need to regear or change speedo but not as much "cool" factor because the tires are smaller, yet it's equally as capable & functional.

here's stock 30" tires, 1" BL, 1" MML and a JeepMedic tummy tuck & engine skid.

skid is 1/4" steel and 2.25" below the frame vs the stock 4.65".

If you like this route, undercoverfab.com sells some nice tummy tuck & engine skids that would fit the bill, for quite reasonable prices.
www.undercoverfab.com
Thanks! it's crazy, there's a lot of different ways to do a lift that makes it so confusing.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:06 PM   #16
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There are rear relocation brackets that will put your rear axle in the right spot for your lift. I run a JKS adjustable front track bar, my stock one made my axle stick out to one side a noticeable amount also it was worn down. Don't run any type of drop pitman arm or front track bar relocation bracket. This will cause bad bump steer if you don't do it right.

To make it easy just stick with 2" extended bumpstops. When you get everything installed you can adjust from there. You could even get extra long bumpstops then cut them down to the size you need.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:16 PM   #17
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For the math, say that when your axle is pressed against the bumpstops you have the minimum distance you would want in between your stock 29" tire and your fender. If you put on 33" tires you increased the diameter by 4" and your tire radius is increased by 2". Meaning that your tire would get to the minimum distance with a gap of 2" between the bumpstop and coil bucket. To prevent your tire from hitting your fender you would have to increase the bumpstops by 2" there for stopping them at the same minimum distance as with stock tires.

Of course this is just an estimate using no other variables.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:06 PM   #18
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Thanks! it's crazy, there's a lot of different ways to do a lift that makes it so confusing.
there is no suspension lift on that jeep, but it has 2.5" more clearance than your stock Jeep. the engine/trans/t-case were moved up and the frame was left at the same height as stock with suspension changes.
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Old 02-08-2012, 05:32 PM   #19
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35's, LJs look stock with anything smaller
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Old 02-08-2012, 10:40 PM   #20
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Here is my buddies LJ with RC 4"2.0 lift on 35's. Extended bump stops where installed in time for this trip.
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:06 PM   #21
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I think im going with 35"
Currie 4"
JKS 1.25" BL
JKS 1" MML
Rancho RS9000XL shocks.

Do I need anything else?
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Old 02-10-2012, 09:35 PM   #22
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I think im going with 35"
Currie 4"
JKS 1.25" BL
JKS 1" MML
Rancho RS9000XL shocks.

Do I need anything else?
Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:26 AM   #23
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[QUOTE=KrzyMoke;2016270]Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.[/

Does the TT help the driveline angle?
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Old 02-12-2012, 02:01 PM   #24
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[QUOTE=Andrewf;2017503]
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrzyMoke View Post
Since Savvy sells the Currie stuff, call them and get their opinion. I have been emailing them and getting my parts list together. I think you need a rear driveshaft but I am not sure.

Me, I am going to tummy tuck first. This way I will get even more clearance when I upgrade to the Savvy lift.[/

Does the TT help the driveline angle?
The TT will actually increase it due to your transfer case moving up into the framerails. The only thing that "really" helps driveline angle are adj. control arms. Since you are buying the Currie lift, they come with the adj. control arms.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:30 AM   #25
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This really sucks. I just lost my job so i have to put things on hold.

Thanks for all the great advice everyone.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:54 AM   #26
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Do what you think is best..Your gut feeling. My gut is 35's with 4''s
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:39 PM   #27
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It's been a long time since I was on here. I lost my job back in Feb and had to put everything on hold. I've been interviewing with this company for about 6 months and last week i got a call saying I got the job. So HAPPY!!!

So i decided to go with 33's. I just placed my order for:

• AEV 3" Springs
• Rancho 9000xl shocks
• Rancho RS5000 Steering Stabilizer
• Johnny Joint Rear Track Bar with Housing Bracket Kit
• JKS Adjustable Sway Bar End Link Kit
• JKS BL + MML

• Bump Stops (not sure what size to get)
• Rear Bumper & Tire Carrier ( any suggestions? )

Am I missing anything?

I'm going to wait on the tires because my current ones only have about 11K on them. Which gives me more time to save for other things.

Can't wait to get everything bolted on.
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Old 12-26-2012, 07:22 AM   #28
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me next!

Good for you.

Keep us posted; pics too.

I'm right behind you. Mine is a 2005 LJ. Been slowly collecting my parts and pieces.

I'm going to put in new ball joints, HD tie rod/drag wheel hubs calipers and pads on. I don't ever want to mess with the front end and bump steer again (if possible, knock on wood).

I'm leaning real heavy towards the Savvy 3" (full kit) with RS9000.
Still haven't decided whether the anti-rock will work (I'm on-road about 50/50). Not sure about shocks--ranchos are recommended...but I don't know. I might have to weld on shock brackets and outboard the rears anyway.

I'm also prob gonna do the 1.5/1 BL/MM from Savvy (brown dog?).

I'll have to call them soon. Finally retiring from US MIL and have some time to work on my baby.

I'm gonna stick with 33's with the option for 35's later. Don't wanna hit the gearing as well (I have the 6 speed).

I'm gonna take a look at the undercover--I'd like to get rid of the shovel. Not sure though: anybody have any feed back on the tuck with BL/MM and adj arms (no SYE??) Not sure if I'll get vibes on that with 3".

Again, congrats and post lots of pics!
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:36 AM   #29
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If you wanted to run 35s later its just a cut away, with that combo all you would need is flat fenders, and trimmed rear fenders.
I run 35s on my DD I also have front hi-line fenders and a TT.
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Old 12-27-2012, 12:08 AM   #30
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Taterhed> When I did my UCF TT (with an existing 4" lift), I found that it was difficult to maintain decent castor while also trying to maintain the pinion angle close to optimum.

I ended up installing 2* upper ball joints to help with that issue.

Just FYI, if you're going to do the BJ's anyway....it might be worth it to spend some extra $$ and get the offset ball joints.

As with all things Jeep....YMMV.

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