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Old 04-08-2012, 06:12 PM   #1
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Tj axles

Please help!! So many axles so many brands. I have always lived by bigger is always better. But I have been told to not do Dana 60s and to do Dana 44s. My tj has a LT1 and I'm only going to be running 35" boggers. So my question is my Dana 44 and not Dana 60 and what brand or who should I talk to about a set of axles. As I get further into this project I find out that an engine swap is not as simple as it sounds haha

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Old 04-08-2012, 06:17 PM   #2
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Go for a D 44. Dana 60 is going to require a lot of fab work, add a of weight, and a lot of extra money compaired to a D44. You can get a D44 that will bolt in off another jeep. Running 35 a D44 will be fine, can always upgrade axle shafts to make it even stronger

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Old 04-08-2012, 06:22 PM   #3
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Just saw that you posted you had an LT1. How much power is it putting out?
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:25 PM   #4
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A little more then 500hp at the crank. Another think i was told is not to do the chrome moly shaft cause I will break my gears. Is this true?
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:28 PM   #5
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Not sure if it would break them, i dont see why they would. a lot of guys run chrome moly without problems. Since you're running that kind of power i would go for a D60. How you do it depends on how much money you want to spend and how much fab work you can do. you can go to a junk yard and pick up a D60, shorten it, weld on new brackets etc. Or you could buy a bolt in aftermarket D60. As you can see the off the shelf D60 is quite a bit of money depending on what kind you want.

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Old 04-08-2012, 09:47 PM   #6
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I would get an ARB locker (known for their strength) and upgrade the axle shafts but go for the Dana 44. Im sure stock 44 would work fine for you, but 35" may be pushing it depending on how you wheel, so I would upgrade the internal parts to ARB and shafts to the chromoly(??) Shafts
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:50 PM   #7
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D44 is fine for 35s but when you have a motor pushing 500hp you're sure to blow it out, better safe than sorry in my opinion.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:52 PM   #8
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44s are not an upgrade over what your running stock. if your running a massaged LT1 do 60s or 609s. do it right once
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_3303
D44 is fine for 35s but when you have a motor pushing 500hp you're sure to blow it out, better safe than sorry in my opinion.
Yeah uh 500 hp verses less than 200.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:56 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Dieselholic View Post
A little more then 500hp at the crank. Another think i was told is not to do the chrome moly shaft cause I will break my gears. Is this true?
Dam that sounds like a bad ass Jeep!!!! Nope I wouldn't waste any money on D44's.. Even if you don't wheel the rig I doubt you'll be able to keep your foot out of the throttle on the pavement.
Out of curiosity what happened to the 6BT swap plans in your profile?
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:57 AM   #11
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:05 AM   #12
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My bigger question is.... Why a 500HP jeep......
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:22 AM   #13
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Ok I am sure I will get a bit of slack on this but here it goes. 4 Wheel parts sells a bolt in D44 with up to 35 spline axles shafts. G2 Rear Dana 44 Axle Assembly - Complete Rear Axle Assemblies - Complete Axles And Third Members - Drivetrain and Differentials - by 4 Wheel Parts

It will give you an idea of wherre yo will be on the axle upgrade. I have seen a Jeep with the 4.0L in-line 6 break the stock D44. My opinion is if you want to run that kind of torque and horse power, you will need bigger axles. If not, you will just be spinning your ring gear for nothing. Now on a D60 you can get better and stronger ring and pinion options. That and maybe even a GM 14 bolt. If you go with a lower gear ratio in your axles with a D44 the pinion gear gets a little small and can be prone to break easier especially with the V8.
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:59 AM   #14
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14 bolt is stronger than the D60. 14 bolts pinions is bigger and rides on 3 bearing rather than 2 on the D60. And the ring gear in the 14 bolt is 10.5 vs 9 3/4 in the D60. Plus the majority of 14 bolts axle shafts are bigger 9/16 in vs the majority of the 5/16 on the D60. One the other hand it weights 50+ lbs more too. once was told that switching from drums to discs on a 14 would shave 40lbs, dont know if thats true or not. Ballistic Fab (Brackets and Tabs) makes a shave kit for both the 14 bolt and D60. 14 bolt gains 2in and the D60 gains 1in of clearence. Only problem with the 14 bolt is the aftermarket support. More options for upgrades with the D60.
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Old 04-09-2012, 01:01 PM   #15
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*Correction: Forgot to put a 1 infront of the axle shaft diamter for the 14 bolt and D60. It is 1 9/16 for the 14 bolt and 1 5/16 for the D60*
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:11 AM   #16
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Why not a 500hp jeep haha. I like the idea of the 14 bolt cause I actually have one lying around that is in good shape. I guess I just need to shorten it and find a good front d60. I don't really want stretch the jeep but if I have to is it very hard?
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:35 AM   #17
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14 bolt and D60 front is a good combo, especially if you're planning on running that kind of power. Thats what i plan on doing to mine a ways down the road. I dont think you need to do a stretch for the 14 bolt. Depends on what you really want to do to the jeep and how much money you want to spend. A stretch kit is very involved and requires a lot of labor. Companies like Clayton Offroad and Genright make stetch kits, but again its going to be labor intensive. And that all depends on your skill level too. What i can think of with the 14 bolt is that you might have to modify the gas tank, you'll need new brackets for the axle, and a different driveshaft. Again i dont know that from experience, just what I can think of off hand that might need to be done. Try a google search someone may have posted a build of a 14 bolt in a TJ.

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Old 04-10-2012, 04:07 PM   #18
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500HP Jeep?

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