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Old 08-24-2011, 10:23 PM   #1
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tj front wheel bearings

front wheel bearings making grinding noise....need to repack or replace.....long hot day took off wheel ...pin out of nut ..could not get nut off...tried everything....liquid wrench....i'm a strong guy but those bolts won't budge.....what can i try w/o paying someone to do what i can do...if only could get bolts off...stumped...any one know what i mignt try???thanks

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Old 08-24-2011, 10:38 PM   #2
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Soak it in PB blaster or liquid wrench for a few hours and get a long pipe, 4-6 feet, put it on the end of the wrench and it should pop loose pretty easy at that point, with that much leverage it will either loosen up or break in which case it should be drilled out and replaced. A whole unit shouldn't cost more then 50-70 and that's a high est. I've seen em as low as 35. Hope that helps.

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Old 08-24-2011, 10:41 PM   #3
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ok thanks...so it's a whole bearing unit? thanks
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:42 PM   #4
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Those front bearings are more correctly called "unit bearing hubs" which is a sealed non-serviceable unit. You can't repack it with grease, just replace it which is not expensive. Here's how... D-30 Axle Shaft Removal - 1

And how to get a stuck hub off... Unit Bearing - 1
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:24 AM   #5
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i had to replace both front bearing units a little while back. i had a lot of trouble loosening the bolt as well. i found the best way to do it was of course soaking it in pb blaster for a while and using a breaking wrench with a three or so foot extension, the i also put another pipe in the studs on the old bearing unit. having someone push down on the breaker bar and another person pushing down on the pipe in the studs so they are doing like cross torque kinda thing. im not the best with techinical terms but i think that should help, also make sure that the opposite side side is still on and on the ground to keep from the side your taking off from turning. hope this helps. also to help for future changing of the bearings use a torque wrench and only put about 175 lbs so its not impossible to get off next time. again hope this all helps
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Old 08-25-2011, 06:44 AM   #6
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Before you but the 3 bolts and the new hub back in place, coast then all with some anti-seize compound. It makes like much easier next time.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:40 AM   #7
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Pretty sure you are supposed to put thread locker on those bolts, hence the reason they are so hard to get off. Get a 18 or 21 in breaker bar from Autozone. They aren't that expensive. Use the antiseize where the hub contacts the knuckle before you install the new one.
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Old 08-25-2011, 10:45 AM   #8
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People actually buy breaker bars? It's called metal pipe, or high lift handle. Most used part of my high lift.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:35 AM   #9
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Air impact, Kroil, 36mm socket. Let it hammer. If it's really nasty, give it the torch treatment a few times. And remember, with any stuck pos, you can try tightening a little then go back to loosen. Helps to bust it loose. Works wonders on valves too.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:36 AM   #10
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Thread locker is not needed for those three particular bolts. Though I use a lot of thread locker elsewhere, I would not use any there.

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