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Old 05-02-2013, 01:34 PM   #31
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I have water coming through my floor boards at times and my jeep feeling like it's going to get swept away by current but never any computer issues due to it. On my 98, I don't recall any electric lines run low, they are all against the firewall up high or on top of motor
U should invest in a Chilton's service manual and learn to work on your jeep yourself. The stealership loves taking people's money at 120-160 an hour labor...

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Old 05-02-2013, 02:40 PM   #32
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Personally I like threads like this, they give me an opportunity to help other people, as well as learn new things. I didn't know about the #4 fuse trick, probably why my dome light doesn't come on, going to check this when I get home.

Don't get too down about this stuff, it's a Jeep. Stuff breaks, sags, rusts, snaps off in your hands, leaks, etc. I hope you get it sorted soon and start enjoying it man.

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Old 05-02-2013, 02:56 PM   #33
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Personally I like threads like this, they give me an opportunity to help other people, as well as learn new things. I didn't know about the #4 fuse trick, probably why my dome light doesn't come on, going to check this when I get home.

Don't get too down about this stuff, it's a Jeep. Stuff breaks, sags, rusts, snaps off in your hands, leaks, etc. I hope you get it sorted soon and start enjoying it man.
#4 fuse = first mod. If you need dome, use the switch on the stalk (or ask your girlfriend)

OP: When you take the doors off, you're going to need to pull #4 again. Mine is in my glove box, along with the nuts to the door pins, but I should really just toss all that to make room.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:56 PM   #34
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You got me thinking now. I bought an extended warranty when I purchased the jeep. The head wasn't covered under the warranty because it wasn't an "internally lubricated" part that failed, but the dash was. If it was just a fuse out, the dealership charged the warranty company for a dash console and labor. They made out like bandits!
PCM was also covered under warranty. Still is this time under the dealerships parts warranty. Getting the wiring fixed will only help prevent other future issues too. But still out $2k+. Lesson in jeeps being learned.
You have me thinking on this one... Did you read the extended contract provisions yourself or are you going by what the dealer told you? Most of the limited coverage contracts I have read still include "Block & Heads " and "internally lubricated parts"
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:07 PM   #35
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You have me thinking on this one... Did you read the extended contract provisions yourself or are you going by what the dealer told you? Most of the limited coverage contracts I have read still include "Block & Heads " and "internally lubricated parts"

I can't imagine an aftermarket warranty not covering that.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:10 PM   #36
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I welcome your ideas on sealing or preventing water damage to the PCM. I have a few of my own. Not sure how much air flow it needs to stay cooled.
MANY get their Jeep VERY wet and PCM issues are not common at all. Not saying the dealership was or was not honest one this one is not a regular issue.
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:13 PM   #37
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Personally I like threads like this, they give me an opportunity to help other people, as well as learn new things. I didn't know about the #4 fuse trick, probably why my dome light doesn't come on, going to check this when I get home.

Don't get too down about this stuff, it's a Jeep. Stuff breaks, sags, rusts, snaps off in your hands, leaks, etc. I hope you get it sorted soon and start enjoying it man.
x2 I never bad mouth my Jeep that's really bad karma. But, with that said, it can be really frustrating at times.....just like my wifey
She calls the jeep my mistress cause I spend more time and money on her
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:22 PM   #38
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I can't imagine an aftermarket warranty not covering that.
Exactly... He mentioned the warranty covered a dash module which would indicate he has a more comprehensive plan. Typically even the base powertrain plans cover the block & heads.. It's speculation at this point but maybe they denied the head because they tried to say "failure of a non covered part (spark plug) caused the failure of the normally covered head"???
OP, why was the head not covered? What exactly did the dealer tell you?
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Old 05-02-2013, 07:54 PM   #39
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Since you mention the diffs already - stick a strong magnet on the sides and pull the magnet to the bottom of the carrier, think of it as sweeping everything possible to the bottom. Then pop the diff cover off and do a complete oil change on them. Pour the oil in a metal pan and attach the magnet to one side of it and swish the oil around and then dump it out again into a bucket. Any metal shavings will now be left stuck to the magnet in the pan. You shouldn't have much, maybe some fine metal dust, maybe a few like sand granules. This also insures you have good fluid in the diffs since you did it yourself. I always ran 75-140 oil in mine for many reasons.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:48 PM   #40
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Exactly... He mentioned the warranty covered a dash module which would indicate he has a more comprehensive plan. Typically even the base powertrain plans cover the block & heads.. It's speculation at this point but maybe they denied the head because they tried to say "failure of a non covered part (spark plug) caused the failure of the normally covered head"???
OP, why was the head not covered? What exactly did the dealer tell you?
I don't have the extended warrany paper work on hand right now, it's in the jeep at the dealership. I did read it when the head issue was at hand. The way it read was only "internally lubricated parts", ie cams, valves etc.
I read that, and knew in my head that they wouldn't cover it before the dealer told me. I can get the exact text to you when I get the jeep back, if you like. But, yes I did read the warranty myself, not just trust the dealer.
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Old 05-02-2013, 09:49 PM   #41
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Since you mention the diffs already - stick a strong magnet on the sides and pull the magnet to the bottom of the carrier, think of it as sweeping everything possible to the bottom. Then pop the diff cover off and do a complete oil change on them. Pour the oil in a metal pan and attach the magnet to one side of it and swish the oil around and then dump it out again into a bucket. Any metal shavings will now be left stuck to the magnet in the pan. You shouldn't have much, maybe some fine metal dust, maybe a few like sand granules. This also insures you have good fluid in the diffs since you did it yourself. I always ran 75-140 oil in mine for many reasons.
Very good idea, Thank you. Did you have to replace the diff seals or were they ok after removing the covers?
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:02 PM   #42
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Update:
Talked to the dealership this afternoon. Here's the scoop. They fixed all the wiring under the dash that was "compromised". They installed a brand new PCM and it INSTANTLY fried. HAHA. That's all I can do at this point, laugh. They are supposed to have a pow wow tomorrow over this thing. He did state something about ignition coils, but at this point they are still unsure what the hell is going on.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #43
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Very good idea, Thank you. Did you have to replace the diff seals or were they ok after removing the covers?

I wouldn't bother with the whole magnet business, if there are chuncks missing from your gears, OI! Otherwise, all you need is (1) steel brush (2) scraper (3) Oil (4) brake cleaner and (5) rtv.

Pull the drain plug first. If it comes out, pull the diff cover. Scrape the seal off the diff cover, scrape the seal off the diff, then brush. This is a good time to paint your diff cover (brush first) and rattle can the rest of the ugly shit under your jeep while you're at it. Liberal use of brake cleaner for the cover and the diff itself. For ref, I use an entire can when changing both front and rear.

So do that for the back, let everything sit until dry. Use the RTV on the cover and the diff itself, make sure to be on the inside of the bolt holes. After applying RTV, let it sit for for 5-15 mins and slap the cover on hand tighten bolts and go to work on the front doing the same thing. Once you have the dif cover on the front, go back to the rear and tighten the bolts... I just use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket on the handle for a little extra leverage -- close enough for hand grenades and horseshoes. Fill til it oozes and pop in the plug... then do that for the front and you're done. Simple. Maybe an hour-three hours depedning if you paint/have a lift/jack whatever.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:51 PM   #44
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Sorry you've had such bad luck with it. Keep working through it! Jeeps are a labor of love, sometimes leans more to one side than the other though.

I've got the 05-06 gas tank issue as well. I'm just gonna order the GM filler hose and do that mod so I can fix it for $30. And I'm glad to get the #4 fuse trick off this thread, since I've got my doors on right now and want my lights.

As for the diff cover, if you're gonna be back inside there much, like lots of us Jeepers are, a $20 lube locker is a good investment. Special gasket for the diff, means you won't have to sit there scraping RTV every time you open it up, just the first time.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:53 PM   #45
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I don't have the extended warrany paper work on hand right now, it's in the jeep at the dealership. I did read it when the head issue was at hand. The way it read was only "internally lubricated parts", ie cams, valves etc.
I read that, and knew in my head that they wouldn't cover it before the dealer told me. I can get the exact text to you when I get the jeep back, if you like. But, yes I did read the warranty myself, not just trust the dealer.
I understand your main concern at this point is getting the Jeep back on the road but when your able get the contract provisions and take another look. Sometimes the verbage can be deceiving. I worked in the extended service contract industry for years, I'm not saying it isn't possibly however I have never seen even the most basic powertrain plan not cover the engine block and heads.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:22 PM   #46
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TX I am sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I have had my own to, not to the extent you have had. Mine is mostly thing do not go well when doing projects. I have learned to like the difficult jobs now, adds to the fun. Remember JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket). Hope things go your way soon.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:11 AM   #47
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I understand your main concern at this point is getting the Jeep back on the road but when your able get the contract provisions and take another look. Sometimes the verbage can be deceiving. I worked in the extended service contract industry for years, I'm not saying it isn't possibly however I have never seen even the most basic powertrain plan not cover the engine block and heads.
I will definitely reread it when I get it back. I may PM you, if I may, to get your take on the exact verbage in the contract. AUL is the warranty company. I don't know if that's who you worked for or have knowledge of them, but I'd like to recoupe some of if not all the money spend on that problem.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:33 AM   #48
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I want all readers to remember that my jeep is a 2.4L 4cyl. My PCM is on the right hand firewall. I don't know anything about the 4.0L engine or component location of these engines. Learning as I go, I wish I would've bought a 4.0, but the deed is done and I'll work through it.

I ask for any ideas on "waterproofing" (I use that term loosely, nothing is ever waterproof) the PCM. I will use GoldenSahara00's idea of using dielectric in the connectors to help keep out water. Dow Corning DC4 is great for this and I can get it at work. I'm thinking about fabricating an aluminum plate to go from under the PCM and bend around to the top to help deflect any future water from hitting it directly. And yes avoiding water is a major key to this also. My jeep has it's first allergy, WATER!!

I will post what the dealership finds is causing the PCM to fry as soon as they installed the new one as soon as I find out.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:39 AM   #49
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As for the diff cover, if you're gonna be back inside there much, like lots of us Jeepers are, a $20 lube locker is a good investment. Special gasket for the diff, means you won't have to sit there scraping RTV every time you open it up, just the first time.
Do you have a vendor or part number for this item? I'd like to take a look at it.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:42 AM   #50
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TX I am sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I have had my own to, not to the extent you have had. Mine is mostly thing do not go well when doing projects. I have learned to like the difficult jobs now, adds to the fun. Remember JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket). Hope things go your way soon.
Thanks Bro. Yes, I'm learning that jeep acronym first hand.
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Old 05-03-2013, 10:48 AM   #51
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I wouldn't bother with the whole magnet business, if there are chuncks missing from your gears, OI! Otherwise, all you need is (1) steel brush (2) scraper (3) Oil (4) brake cleaner and (5) rtv.

Pull the drain plug first. If it comes out, pull the diff cover. Scrape the seal off the diff cover, scrape the seal off the diff, then brush. This is a good time to paint your diff cover (brush first) and rattle can the rest of the ugly shit under your jeep while you're at it. Liberal use of brake cleaner for the cover and the diff itself. For ref, I use an entire can when changing both front and rear.

So do that for the back, let everything sit until dry. Use the RTV on the cover and the diff itself, make sure to be on the inside of the bolt holes. After applying RTV, let it sit for for 5-15 mins and slap the cover on hand tighten bolts and go to work on the front doing the same thing. Once you have the dif cover on the front, go back to the rear and tighten the bolts... I just use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket on the handle for a little extra leverage -- close enough for hand grenades and horseshoes. Fill til it oozes and pop in the plug... then do that for the front and you're done. Simple. Maybe an hour-three hours depedning if you paint/have a lift/jack whatever.
Thanks for the info. If there's one thing I do have, it's tools. I normally work on things that fly, not drive.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:26 AM   #52
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4.0 PCM is in the same location. Again, water on the PCM is not a common cause for issues.
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:34 AM   #53
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I wasn't trying to offend you, I just hate people who join the forum just to complain and bad mouth their jeep. It doesn't seem productive to me at all. You obviously care and do want to take care of your jeep, and just wanted to vent. That wasn't obvious to me at first though. I apologize if I offended you.
We're cool man. Yes, I wanted to vent and yes, I wanted feedback to learn from. I got both. All good. V
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:43 AM   #54
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4.0 PCM is in the same location. Again, water on the PCM is not a common cause for issues.
So with the dealership now stating something about ignition coils, he didn't go into details, any thoughts or ideas?

I live on the Gulf Coast of TX. We get some serious rain and the roads flood quickly. Stating the obvious here, don't drive through high water, an inch or two of water on the roads is normal. I'm trying to find a solution to keep from this happenening again, when I see jeeps almost sunk and not having these porblems. I'm speaking of electrical issues, not sucking water down the intake, just to be clear.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:29 PM   #55
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So with the dealership now stating something about ignition coils, he didn't go into details, any thoughts or ideas?

I live on the Gulf Coast of TX. We get some serious rain and the roads flood quickly. Stating the obvious here, don't drive through high water, an inch or two of water on the roads is normal. I'm trying to find a solution to keep from this happenening again, when I see jeeps almost sunk and not having these porblems. I'm speaking of electrical issues, not sucking water down the intake, just to be clear.
You'll probably have better luck if you drive slowly through any standing water. Anytime you have water "gushing out like geysers" from the fenders, you can be sure it's splashing inside just as well. Anytime you have water splashing around like that you're taking your chances. Those other Jeeps you see aren't splashing into the water, they're driving slow and being careful; there is really no big mystery.

That's not to say it isn't possible for some problems left by the previous owner aren't contributing, but regardless driving recklessly into water will cause issues. I've witnessed someone start out the day at Rausch Creek with a beautiful Rubicon and end up leaving the park on a flat bed because he thought his snorkel made him invincible to water.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:11 AM   #56
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Update:
Well not much to update. Dealership is at a loss as what's causing the problem. They are consulting with Chrysler. Will update again as soon as I learn something.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:29 AM   #57
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You'll probably have better luck if you drive slowly through any standing water. Anytime you have water "gushing out like geysers" from the fenders, you can be sure it's splashing inside just as well. Anytime you have water splashing around like that you're taking your chances. Those other Jeeps you see aren't splashing into the water, they're driving slow and being careful; there is really no big mystery.

That's not to say it isn't possible for some problems left by the previous owner aren't contributing, but regardless driving recklessly into water will cause issues. I've witnessed someone start out the day at Rausch Creek with a beautiful Rubicon and end up leaving the park on a flat bed because he thought his snorkel made him invincible to water.
As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:30 AM   #58
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Update:
Well not much to update. Dealership is at a loss as what's causing the problem. They are consulting with Chrysler. Will update again as soon as I learn something.

Luckily your warranty covers... bet it's some connection somewhere that has failed and is causing your ECU to go pop.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #59
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As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
Good point, Except water can cause shorts, knock wires loose, splash up into the intake, etc. not as big of a risk but still exists. Evidence is what the OP is now dealing with.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #60
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As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
Never said the opposite, and that wasn't the point I was making. The point I was trying to make was fording that kind of water, or even water much shallower than that, at the kind of speed to make it "shoot out of the flares like geysers" as the OP said can certainly cause problems.

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