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Old 03-29-2011, 06:52 AM   #1
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tj hub conversion kit... WHY?

That is, why does my jeep need the conversion kit to switch to manual hubs on a d30 vs older d30 models? (yj, cj...)

I was looking to switch because my auto hub stopped working on the passenger side and you would think manual hubs would be cheaper to replace... not so.

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Old 03-29-2011, 06:55 AM   #2
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I have been wondering if they make a kit to put manual hubs on a tj

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Old 03-29-2011, 07:04 AM   #3
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They do (for the 30 anyhow) it varies from 700-1200$... I'm not made of money...
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:09 AM   #4
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Too much $ for me
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:29 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by bmanrkg3 View Post
I was looking to switch because my auto hub stopped working on the passenger side
the jeep you have in your profile does NOT have an auto hub, no TJ or YJ have auto hubs from the OEM.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:33 AM   #6
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The TJ dana 30 and CJ 30 are far different. The reason it costs more to convert over to real hubs, is you need more parts to make it work. Spindle, the hub etc just to name a few. I have had both, I prefer the TJ style, Less parts, less things to fix on the trail if something go's wrong. However if you run a full time front locker the manual hubs are nice to have.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:37 AM   #7
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Your front axle shafts are always turning. No Wrangler had auto or manual hubs from factory. People switch to manual hubs partly because of that. Saves a slight bit of mpg's but not enough to put you on top for paying the money for the swap. They also do it for easier flat towing, though Wranglers are already great for that.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:44 AM   #8
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The purpose of running manual hubs on a tj is if you bust an axle shaft. If you bust a shaft up front, you can unlock your hub to make the drive home with the broken shaft. With the conversion kit, you are able to disconnect the front axle. Your axle shafts and differential will not spin while you are moving if you are unlocked. With the stock TJ set up your axle shafts and differential is always spinning.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:52 AM   #9
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I put the Warn hub conversion on my TJ in 2001. I came from CJs and Blazers and always had manual hubs. I was driving 120 miles a day in my commute and wanted to get the most from the Jeep. I still drive my Jeep daily just not quite so far. In my case it has been great. I have a Powertrax no slip in the front and I can keep all wear off the front since nothing turns till I lock the hubs. I also put in chromaloy axles and ends in at the same time. I know it makes a difference on the hwy because if I forget to unlock them, I can immediately feel the small vibrations that come with turning the front DS and gears...not much difference but noticeable. I had less than 20,000 miles on it when I added them but would not consider upgrading if I had 100,000+. Warn sold their design to Randys Ring and Pinion and Mile Marker started making some too. HappyTrails.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:59 AM   #10
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All wranglers 1987 to present have fixed hubs. The axle is splined directly to the hub. When the wheels turn, the axles turn. 87-95 yjs have a two piece right axle with a vacuum disconnect. 97 and up tjs have a solid right axle with no disconnect.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:59 AM   #11
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I am old school and like that I can take the bearings out and grease them every year. I am still using the bearings that came with the kit. BTW I believe I paid about $700 for the kit and the axles ten years ago. I also had to get yj rotors and modify them to fit. It's not for everyone but I wish it was a less expensive mod. Also had to permanently remove ABS to install.
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Old 03-30-2011, 12:40 AM   #12
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Well, i consider them automatic...

At any rate, when I engage 4wd there's an awful grinding noise from the front axle. The passenger hub isn't engaging/working properly... my mechanic thought it would be cheaper to swap to manual hubs. Unbeknownst to the both of us that you need that kit...
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Old 03-30-2011, 08:01 AM   #13
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They cannot be automatic if there are no hubs. As said above...the TJ does not have hubs, it is directly driven from the T case. If you want hubs you need to make major modifications to add them. You need a mechanic that knows what he's talking about and knows jeeps.
You also need to narrow down where the noise is coming from because nothing in front of the Tcase changes when you go from 2 wheel drive to 4 wheel drive or 4 lo. The front end turns the same all the time.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:31 AM   #14
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Yep there's nothing "automatic" about the TJ's hubs, they are always "locked" if you want to think of them that way.
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:24 PM   #15
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Ok. But yeah, the grinding only happens when I engage 4wd and go in motion.
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:32 PM   #16
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What grinding? 4Hi? 4Lo? You do know that it's perfectly normal for the unsynchronized 4Lo to grind when shifting into it if you aren't stopped or nearly stopped.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:21 PM   #17
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I always stop before shifting into either hi or lo. It grinds in both... but it takes more gas to do it in 4hi due to it not being geared as low as 4lo...
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:31 PM   #18
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More gas to do what? You can shift into 4hi while in motion(though only ever do it on loose ground never on paved roads), 4low requires you to stop completely or be rolling no more that I think it was 3 mph. It will grind.

I want to say you have chipped teeth on your ring gear but you say it only happens in 4wd. Pop the cover off the front and check for debris in your gear oil. Also check your ring and pinion and your spider gears for broken teeth. It might be slightly chipped and only makes a noise when under load. Also pull your axle shafts to check the splines. Find out what it is before you think about replacing stuff that might not be broken.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:33 PM   #19
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More gas to make the grinding...
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:36 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmanrkg3 View Post
More gas to make the grinding...
Yea, I read that again and realized that is what you meant. When you say the hub isn't working do you mean that wheel isn't turning in 4wd?
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:41 PM   #21
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Not sure of the cause of the grinding sound...but your "hub not working" is probably your tire not spinning because you have an open differential.
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:45 PM   #22
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My mechanic put it up on the lift, engaged 4wd and rotated the tires freely to find out which side was doing it, it was the passenger side.he pulled the hub and there was grinding marks from where it was barely engaging.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:00 PM   #23
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I honestly cannot understand what he is looking at. There is nothing to engage on a TJ. There is a bearing assembly on each side but they have nothing to do with 4wd. How about a pic so we can see what he is seeing. Also take a picture of the front of the jeep so we know it's a TJ. Lol.
Confused....
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:07 PM   #24
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:39 PM   #25
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Here is a pic of a TJ wheel bearing.


Here is a pic of a TJ outer axle shaft.

The shaft slides into the wheel bearing and a nut is put on the outside to keep them together. There is no engaging. The two are one when put together.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:43 PM   #26
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Here is a pic of the axle still in place with the hub removed. Does it look familiar and where did you have grinding marks?
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:38 PM   #27
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I said 'he' looked at it for a reason lol. How difficult is it to remove?
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Old 03-31-2011, 12:00 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I said 'he' looked at it for a reason lol. How difficult is it to remove?
Its easy. You only need a jack, simple socket set, a 13mm 12 point socket, and a torque wrench. A rubber mallet would be handy to remove the wheel bearing.

Jack up tire and remove. Remove caliper and zip tie out of way(may need mallet or pry bar), remove rotor. On the inside of the knuckle find the 3 13mm bolts and remove them. You will most likely need the mallet to beat the bearing free. then you can slide the whole axle shaft out. 3 13mm bolts torque to 75ft/lbs when you put it back together. Caliper bolts I don't remember exact off the top of my head 10-13ft/lbs, to tight and you break the bolt off in the knuckle, lugs to 90-100ft/lbs

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