Yeah, sorry. I get distracted easily. I got them installed and took some photos as I went. Let me put some up.
After unpacking the sliders themselves, that BTW seemed to be packaged pretty good. I inspected them only after feeling a sharp edge on the end of one. It appeared to have some damage I believe to have been done during shipping. I just filed the end smooth and shot it with some semi-gloss black. I am sure that over time I will be having to touch them up anyhow. The install went as simple as it was described in the PDF file that is down-loadable from the website. I free handed the trimming of the 4 body bushings with a 32 TPI hacksaw. Ideally it would have been nice If I had access to an upright band-saw. We have them at work, but I am currently on disability and don't have access to them, but I wasn't going to let something as minor as that keep me from getting them installed. Especially since I had already removed and sold my nerf/step bars. Once removing the plastic from the fender extension. I cleaned up the paint and inventoried all the hardware to make sure it as all there. I did read that other owners of these bars had mentioned the protective coating was thin and had started to rust. So I took all the fasteners, wiped them down with a degreaser and gave them two nice coats of that same semi-gloss black rustoleum paint as I had used when touching up the slider. Quick note. The hardware that came with my sliders consisted of Flathead socket cap screws, flat washers, split lock washers and self locking nuts (deform type). Of the hardware included, If I had my choice and wasn't in such a hurry to get her done, I would have thrown out the deformed type lock nuts and instead used the all so popular nylon insert type (nylock/aircraft) style instead. Unfortunatly I didn't have enough on hand to do the job so I just cussed all the while installing the cheaper and more destructive deformed type. Another fellow jeeper has suggested the replacement with a SSTL type which would have been fine too. Again I suggest the nylock type nuts in any case. It will allow easier removal without destroying the screw. The only other important thing that comes to mind during the initial layout and installation is to make sure that when drilling holes through the tub, please be careful to check for any wiring or whatever else yo may have laid inside the tub prior to drilling. I had ran my HD welding
cable down the one side to feed the power distribution block in the rear under the seat. This can also be a one person job.
Original thin finish on screw:
I gave them 2 coats of semi-gloss black rustoleum after degreasing them.
note some minor damage during shipping. Easily fixed with a file and some paint. I would normally get upset over something like this, but hey for the price I got these baby's, I really can't complain, and if I did, I would just probably have to wait another week or so for replacements.
They were packaged quite well, again I blame the shipper.
No biggie. On to better things. Clean up the area if yo wish prior to layout and installation:
Jack up body after loosening up the front body bushing bolt as well as the corresponding side bolts for the remaining body bushings. The two that will need trimmed will need to be completely removed as well as the other side one to allow the body enough lift to clear bushings for removal and trimming. I am sorry I didn't get any pictures of the actual trimming, I meant to, but I guess I was just caught up in the moment and didn't have a free hand. The PDF file shows exactly how to measure and cut the 3/16" of material away from the body bushings. Once trimmed, they just get reinstalled and the slider slides just under the bushings top washer and where the bushing was trimmed.
Note the small gap above bushing. This is where the steel plate of the slider is slid into, steel washer is just above the plate.
Once slid into place. I loosely fit the bushing bolts in to hold the slider in place as I repositioned the jack under the new slider and gently jacked it up into place against the tub where it will rest. Applying force with the jack to the bottom of the slider to force it up tightly against the tub and if necessary tapping the slider towards the tub with a soft faced hammer or dead blow to get it as snug as possible. This is also the time to double check inside the tub before you run your pilot bit into something important.
After final inspection and you have verified it is clear. I just used an automatic center punch to mark where I was going to drill my pilot holes. You may use any method you have available. I was unable to locate my transfer punch set so I just eyeballed it. I do suggest that you make every effort to get them centered correctly. If you fail to do so, your screws will not center in the hole after you drill your final holes. Which also brings me to the drill size to clear the 3/8" hardware. Use your judgment. I went with a 13/32" sized hole so I had to be more accurate in centering my pilot holes. To each his own. You can make your holes a bit larger and allow for more misalignment of your holes.
My punch mark before drilling:
Drilling pilot hole:
I also put a dab of silicone RTV sealant on the threads just under the flat head of the screws prior to installation to help seal out any moisture that may try to weep into the hole in the tub as well as seal the freshly drilled hole from rust. It isn't necessary, but it is cheap insurance. I of course will keep an eye out for any signs of corrosion and rust formation inside the tub where the fasteners come through. After completing one side the body bushings need tightened. You will need to leave that front one loose until completion of the second side and then don't forget to tighten her up too. Good luck feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I am happy with the product quality and price. We will have to see how well she holds up over time.
Just a FYI:
I do not have a BL, the red neoprene body bushings were to replace my factory Jeep ones that were all rotted and cracked.