So my 05 was leakin some antifreeze and i looked around the forum for a write up on my style of up. i think they changed them in 03, no? anyways i figured this wouldnt hurt to post. so here we go...
few tools you will need to have on hand are
-7/16 inch socket and OR wrench
-1/2 inch socket and wrench (ratchet wrench would be best)
-9/16 socket and OR wrench
-chennel locks, a set of 460's and a set of 440's
- i had to rent a fan clutch removal tool from advanced (you can make one if you want, the wrench that came with it didnt even fit anyways just need the fork)
you will also need
-high temp threat sealent
-four grade 8, 5/16 inch by 18 thread, 1 inch long bolts and four nuts (the bolts holding the pulley on are not long enough for the fork to hold)
here is a pic of how the bolts are to short to reach with the fork
-something to drain the fluid in
-antifreeze (NOTE: my 05, and i think from 02 and up take HOAT antifreeze, zerex g-05 is one kind that will work or you can go to the dealer and get some mopar 100,000 antifreeze and mix it 50/50 yourself like i did.)
so lets get started
-1st, we need to drain the system of fluid, there is a drain plug on the passanger side of the radiator.
unscrew it untill you get a nice flow of fluid comming out. wait untill the fuild is done draining and screw it back in (closed) and move on to the next step.
-Now that the fluid is drained we can go ahead and disconnect the hose from the top of the radiator using the channel locks and fold it back out of the way.
Now we can go ahead and remove the belt by using a 1/2 drive ratchet, there is a square cut hole in the tensioner pulley arm its located under the alternator. slide the ratchet into it and crank it down.
here is a pic of the square hole, NOTE HOW THE BELT GOES ON!
-with the belt set aside, next we can remove the over flow tank. take the hole loose at the take and push it out of the way, now just lift up on the overflow tank and push on the back of it and set it aside be careful not to spill it.
-next, remove the two lower bolts holding the fan shroud on using a 7/16 inch socket wrench. (leave the two on top in place for now)
-now its time to remove the fan clutch assambly. to do so, we want to remove the four bolts holding the pulley to the water pump using a 1/2 inch wrench or ratchet wrench, socket wont fit.
In this pic you can only see two of them, once all four are out keep them in a safe place, dont pull the pulley out of place yet.
-next, take the four 1 inch bolts you have and run a nut all the way up on all of them
should look like this when your done.
-now thread one in each hole in of the pulley that you just took the four out of. snug them up finger tight should be good.
in this pic the fan clutch assembly is already removed, i waited to take a pic so it would be easier to see. when you thread them in, the fan will still be on and will be a little tight but can be done
-next, slide the fork over the bold heads, and the bg channel locks, 460's over the fan clutch assembly shaft and break it loose (it takes a big wrench and i didnt have one but its like an 1 1/2 maybe?). this is a normal thread so the ol righty tighty lefty loosey.
this is a pic of how the fork works on the bolt heads, it wont let the water pump spin as you thread the fan off.
-once the fan assembly is broke free, rest it agains the radiator and remove the two remaining top bolts holding the shroud in place using the 7/16 socket again, lift the shroud and fan clutch assembly out of the jeep and set aside.
-now that the fan is out of our way, lets take the bolts we threaded into the water pump pulley back out and pop the pulley off and set all that aside for now
-Once i got the pulley out of the way i found the real problem.... there is a tube comming off the top of the left, (passanger) side of the water pump, right above where it threaded into the water pump it head a crack. ok Hell with it, we are in here and we need to remove the water pump to get it out anyways might as well change the pump. lets over this tube 1st tho.
the tube is called the water pump inlet tube, its a hard pipe that threads to the water pump and goes up into a rubber hose that goes back to the heater core in the fire wall. its about 11 bucks at advance auto parts. the kicker is it takes them about 3 days to get ahold of it....
heres a pic after i broke it all the way off lol
-anyways, now we can diconnect the big hose goin to the right (driver) side of the water pump.
hard to see in the pic but you will be able to tell what im talking about, it runs down to the bottom of the radiator, once that is done, go ahead and diconnect the the inlet tube where it connects to the rubber hose.
-next, the only way you can get the water pump out is to take either, the idler pulley off, or the stat housing so the inlet tube will have clearance. you can pick what one to do. if u want to replace the stat nows the time, or just take the pulley off. i did the pulley.
the bolt is a 9/16 inch, the two stat housing bolts are 1/2 inch bolts
now that we have our clearance we need, we can start takin the bolts out that hold the water pump on
there are six 1/2 inch bolts holding it to the block make sure u keep track of where they went, some are longer. ( NOTE that the big hose on the driver side is still hooked up.... yea like i said befor go ahead and diconnect that befor you take the mounting bolts out)
-now that we have the bolts out, go ahead and pop her loose from the block and slide her out of the jeep. If you inlet tube is still good, unthread it and set it aside and throw the old pump away. there is no core charge on these pumps for some reason.
-now back some rags or paper towels into the opening in the block so nothing can get in there.
now you can scrape the old gasket off with a razer blade, i also used goof off on a rag to get some of the residue off of it. its gonna be kinda had to get the top left( passanger) side of the gasket off just make sure its off, or it will leak. (if you used paper towels like me make sure you take them out and put new ones in about ever 15 mins so they dont break apart from soking up the antifreeze and cant get the little parts out)
-ok got it all cleaned up, now lets bet the new pump ready. take ur old, or new inlet tube and put some high temp thread sealent on the threads on the pipe and thread it into the water pump, make sure you get it turned the right way. you cant tighten it down all the way, it wont line up so tighten it down WITH YOUR HAND as tight as you can then back it off till its where it needs to be
the old, and new inlet tube's
i got the thread sealent for like 5 bucks at the auto part store. make sure you use a good amount on the threads and whip it down into them with your finger. and also that is high temp
heres a pic after i got the inlet tube turned to the right spot in the new water pump
-next, its RVT time. MAKE SURE EVERYTHNG IS NICE AND DRY. put some RTV on both the block and the water pump, once you do that, lay the paper gasket that it should have came with into place on the new water pump, i like doing it this way for a few reason,
1) the new pump i got already had a pit in it!
2) it will hold the gasket in place while you install the pump
3) its much easier to scrape the RTV off than it is the paper gasket of ever need be
you can see the thread sealend i put on the inlet pipe in this pic
-now, we can put the pump into place, and install the bolts and snug them up. wait for a bit while the RTV sets up befor tightening to spec. i think i waited two hrs or so. after that, go ahead and tighten them down to spec (18 ft pounds)
-next, we can hook the big hose on the right (drive) side back up to the pump, then the inlet tube to the rubber hose again.
-reinstall the tensioner pulley if thats what you picked and tighten it down, im not sure on the spec i just tightened it down pretty good, you can add some loctite to it if you want.
-now we can slide the pulley back on and use the 1 inch bolts again to hold it on for now. snug them up with your hand
-grab the fan shroud and fan clutch assembly and slide it back down into place, you can let the fan sit in there again will you get the shroud bolts started. this time you can go ahead and put all four in and tighten then down tight
-thread the fan clutch assembly into the threads sticking out of the water pump, get this hand tight.
-now stick the fork back on the bolt heads, and the channel locks or wrench on the fan and tighten it down nice and tight. (careful not to over tighten)
-Unthread the bolds goin through the pulley and re intall the short ones we set aside earlier and tighten then up good with a 1/2 inch wrench. (you can aply loctite if you need to, i did not)
- once this is done, its time for the belt to go back on, trick is, but the belt in place on every pulley but the power stearing pump, pull the on the loop with one hand and use the other to crank on the tensioner pulley giving you enough slack to slip the belt over the p/s pump pulley. check and back sure the belt is seated right on all the pulleys.
-now reconnect to big hose to the top of the top of the radiator, after that slide the over flow tank back into place, making sure it clips in and reconnect the hose.
-now top off your antifreeze and start the jeep and check of leaks. wait till it reaches normal operating temps (mine is 210). then shut it off and let it COOL DOWN then check and add as needed.
Hope this helps someone out a little bit, if i missed something let me know i was kinda in a hurry and tryin to take pics as well.