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Old 04-08-2014, 11:50 AM   #1
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Tj wheels and lift

Have a 2000 TJ and I'm pretty new at this. I haven't really been into cars until I got my jeep in December. There's so much I want to do to it but I want a lift kit and tires/rims first. What would be the biggest lift I could get out of it with it being still to be a daily driver? I've heard after 3" it starts to get unstable on the road. I wanted to get spacers too but I don't like how you lose thread length on the bolt. Would kind of back spacing on the rims does it need to push the wheel out more? And lastly what brand of lift is reliable and easy on the wallet?

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Old 04-08-2014, 01:14 PM   #2
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I have a 4" Currie lift kit under my 04 Rubicon with 33" tires. I kept the original rims and installed (if I remember correctly) 1 1/4" spacers to give me the needed offset for the larger tires. Once we got the proper rear currie springs under my jeep it rides great. Currie makes two different springs for the rear each of different stiffness. If you have the hard top heavy aftermarket tire carrier and large tire your really going to want those heavier springs.

My rig is vary stable on the road I've driven it from Az to Mn twice in the last five months. I'm cruising on the interstate at 75 and the jeep dose well. Granted I'm not as comfortable as someone in a town car but there not near as cool as a jeep.

My advice is get the best lift you can afford. My lift has been maintenance free.

If you do a 4" lift no doubt your going to need to update the rear driveshaft to one with a CV joint. The shaft alone will be $300 cost will be more depending what you have to do to adapt to the transmission.

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Old 04-08-2014, 02:23 PM   #3
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Thanks! That's a big help. Is your rubicon as high as you'd like it to be? I'm afraid once i spend the money and lift it, it's not going to look as tall as i want it. I don't want it super tall but i want it far away from the stock height. What i'm saying is: are you happy with the 4" lift with 33's?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:37 PM   #4
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If you go with a full 4" suspension lift, it will be anything but "easy on your wallet". To do a 4" the right way will require an sye, double cardan drive shaft, rear adjustable control arms, etc, and will run you around $2000. The only alternative to that is you wind up with a giant transfer case drop which kind of defeats the purpose of a lift.

On a tight budget, you should consider something like a Zone 4.25" combo lift which includes a 3" suspension lift, 1.25" body lift, and 1" motor mount lift (instead of a tc drop to take care of vibes due to steeper drive line angles). Zone Offroad 4-1/4" Combo System 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ J25/J26

I would recommend adding a good adjustable front track bar like this one from Metalcloak TJ/LJ Jeep Wrangler Solid Chromoly Front Track Bar
So you don't have to relocate the stock one in a weaker part of the axle bracket.
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:47 PM   #5
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For the Zone 4.25" combo lift would i need the cam alignment kit?
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Old 04-08-2014, 02:56 PM   #6
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For the Zone 4.25" combo lift would i need the cam alignment kit?
If you don't have facotry cam bolts in the front of your Jeep, you can use the ones Zone offers to change/set your castor up front. The Zone 4.25" Combination Lift Kit comes with everything else you need. I would recommend adding an Adjustable Track Bar so you don't have to drill the factory axle side mount, but it isn't necessary.

If you want to run your stock wheels and get Wheel Spacer, you can. You don't loose threads with a good spacer. Just make sure you keep them torqued properly!

If you want to run 33x12.50's you'll want around 3.75" of back spacing to make sure you clear everything. Let me know what questions you have or if you'd like a quote!

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Old 04-08-2014, 04:57 PM   #7
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Does a higher backspace make the wheel stick out more?
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:38 PM   #8
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Better not call a jeep a car on these forums
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:53 PM   #9
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Does a higher backspace make the wheel stick out more?
The lower the back space, the further out the wheel sticks. Back space is measured from the back of the wheel to the wheel mounting surface. 3.75 to 4" back space is good, and you can even use 4.5" back space if you put a couple of washers behind your steering stops.
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:04 AM   #10
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Thanks for the help!
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Old 04-09-2014, 12:13 AM   #11
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I'm running a 4" lift with 32's. TC drop, SYE. It does fine on the freeway at 65 -70. Gets your attention when stopping though. New steering stabilizer helped. Just found that my TC shifter needs the cable. The linkage is at to much of an angle. Doesn't go into gear well. Water Dog is right, it gets expensive. I bought mine already lifted so I figure I got a good deal. Still some things to do to make it better.
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:51 AM   #12
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I think my Rubicon looks great with the four inch currie lift. I currently have 33" tires under it and plan to increase to 35" when my 33s are shot. The spacers do push the wheels out a little a 1 1/2" perside making my jeep look a little beefier on the road. My currie lift has over 20000 miles on it with no trouble what so ever.
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Old 04-13-2014, 06:11 PM   #13
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This is mine it an 03 have a zone 4.25 combo lift with 33/12.50 15s wheels have 3.75 backspace
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:18 PM   #14
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A 4 inch suspension lift is do-able. Once you start talking about going higher, it gets to be a major undertaking, which even getting to 4 inches is a major undertaking if you want a end result of a smooth, capable on and off road driver.

If you just want a stiff, rough, pretend lift then go ahead and buy one of those Rough Country or Zone all in one incomplete "kits" (lol) and lift the Hades out of it. It takes money to lift and once past about 2.5 inches, it starts to increase exponentially, or at least form the SO view, it does.

My opinion, and not a pro by any means, 4 inch suspension lift for 33s, 4 inch suspension lift plus a 1 inch body lift for 35s. Then there is the whole high line and tummy tuck approach which I do not fully understand.

J
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:41 PM   #15
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If you just want a stiff, rough, pretend lift then go ahead and buy one of those Rough Country or Zone all in one incomplete "kits" (lol) and lift the Hades out of it.
J
Putting RC and Zone in the same bag is just plain wrong. Zone is probably one of the best inexpensive lifts out there and the 4.25 combo lift has had some thought put into the design.
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Old 04-13-2014, 08:58 PM   #16
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Putting RC and Zone in the same bag is just plain wrong. Zone is probably one of the best inexpensive lifts out there and the 4.25 combo lift has had some thought put into the design.
These forums are OPINION forums. That is my opinion. But, may I ask, how is a Zone lift different from a RC? The control arms are as important as the springs and shocks. And what I see on the Zone is not appreciably different from what I had on the RC lift installed on my Rubicon my the PO.

It could be elitist, but I would rather spend money once than twice or three times and just get the better equipment. Savvy, Currie, Metal Cloak etc.

I have driven a Zone 4 inch on a TJ Rubicon, and it is why when I pulled the RC junk off of my Rubicon that I went ahead and begin buying high end quality components and will continue to do so--it is cheaper in the long run to get the good stuff and the Jeep drives so much better and performs better off road. The Zone lift I drove just did not drive much different than the RC though it was a little softer.

It was also squishy feeling and loose compared to my Jeep with Currie arms and JJs and my buddy with Savvy arms also with JJs. More articulation, smoother and tighter control, no squishy feeling.

I do think that the JJs might transfer more road noise however than a clevite/tube bushing in a rubber sleeve.

J
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:36 PM   #17
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These forums are OPINION forums. That is my opinion. But, may I ask, how is a Zone lift different from a RC? The control arms are as important as the springs and shocks. And what I see on the Zone is not appreciably different from what I had on the RC lift installed on my Rubicon my the PO.

It could be elitist, but I would rather spend money once than twice or three times and just get the better equipment. Savvy, Currie, Metal Cloak etc.

I have driven a Zone 4 inch on a TJ Rubicon, and it is why when I pulled the RC junk off of my Rubicon that I went ahead and begin buying high end quality components and will continue to do so--it is cheaper in the long run to get the good stuff and the Jeep drives so much better and performs better off road. The Zone lift I drove just did not drive much different than the RC though it was a little softer.

It was also squishy feeling and loose compared to my Jeep with Currie arms and JJs and my buddy with Savvy arms also with JJs. More articulation, smoother and tighter control, no squishy feeling.

I do think that the JJs might transfer more road noise however than a clevite/tube bushing in a rubber sleeve.

J
The Zone Combo lift is a 3" suspension lift that uses the stock CA's that are far and away superior than any of the cheap fixed CA's that come with the inexpensive 4" lifts. It couples a 3" suspension lift with a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift instead of a tc drop. Because it's only 3" suspension on stock arms it handles closer to stock, but still offers the clearance for 33's at a pretty good bang for the buck price. I agree that it cannot compete with high dollar lifts, and I currently run a combination of OME, and Currie products myself, but there are a lot of people on here that can't invest those kinds of $'s in their toys, and have to settle for a little less. Does that mean they shouldn't be able to enjoy the process? So what if you spend $550 on a lift and wind up changing it two years from now? (That's cheaper than a lot of people's monthly car payment) At least you learned how to install a lift and something about suspension in the meantime. We have two Jeeps in our family one with Currie stuff, the other with the Zone combo. Is the Currie better? Of course,. Is the Zone bad? Not at all.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:01 PM   #18
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The Zone Combo lift is a 3" suspension lift that uses the stock CA's that are far and away superior than any of the cheap fixed CA's that come with the inexpensive 4" lifts. It couples a 3" suspension lift with a 1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift instead of a tc drop. Because it's only 3" suspension on stock arms it handles closer to stock, but still offers the clearance for 33's at a pretty good bang for the buck price. I agree that it cannot compete with high dollar lifts, and I currently run a combination of OME, and Currie products myself, but there are a lot of people on here that can't invest those kinds of $'s in their toys, and have to settle for a little less. Does that mean they shouldn't be able to enjoy the process? So what if you spend $550 on a lift and wind up changing it two years from now? (That's cheaper than a lot of people's monthly car payment) At least you learned how to install a lift and something about suspension in the meantime. We have two Jeeps in our family one with Currie stuff, the other with the Zone combo. Is the Currie better? Of course,. Is the Zone bad? Not at all.

I did not understand the combo lift, thanks, in that case, I do not care for the BL and the engine lift. This is the Zone lift I compared to in the so equipped Jeep I drove:

Zone Offroad 4" Suspension System 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ J10/J11

Again, in an opinion forum where opinion is given based upon one's life experiences, my experience in life is to do it right the first time and if you cannot, then wait until you can.

J
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:04 PM   #19
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Adding a body lift and a MML is doing it right
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:07 PM   #20
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I did not understand the combo lift, thanks, in that case, I do not care for the BL and the engine lift. This is the Zone lift I compared to in the so equipped Jeep I drove: Zone Offroad 4" Suspension System 97-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ J10/J11 Again, in an opinion forum where opinion is given based upon one's life experiences, my experience in life is to do it right the first time and if you cannot, then wait until you can. J
I think the opinion sharing is good and necessary so I don't want to discredit that at all, but I am wondering if the Jeep you drove was not lifted correctly. It would need an SYE and CV or maybe a big Tcase drop to get rid of vibes. If these things weren't done then maybe that's why the ride was bad and not because it was a Zone lift. Just an idea I thought I'd share

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