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Old 04-02-2013, 02:37 PM   #1
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TJ years to shoot for and price range?

Hello Jeep guys! My first vehicle is going to be a Jeep. I was originally shooting for a 2007 Wrangler, but realizing the cost, it would kill me. So, I am shooting for a TJ era 2 door Wrangler.

Why a Jeep? Recently we had around 9 inches of Snow, and my gun buddy/friend, wanted to hang out. So, he said he would come pick me up. I walk outside and realize there is a ton of snow. He pulls up in his Jeep with ease and drives us back to his house at a good 30 mph with is 4wd and all terrain tires! I was in shock. There was barely anyone out on the road, and if they were, they were going 5 mph trying not to slip on their non USA made sedans. The Toyota's, Kia's, and Honda's couldn't handle it one bit, and the JEEP COULD. I was convinced I would buy a Jeep from that point on.

My color favorites are khaki, green(military style is awesome), silver, and yellow. Now, my budget is 10k and under. I have found multiple listings and have printed them out to compare them side by side. My parents will be doing the purchasing. To them, my grades and future career are more important than a job. I tend to agree with them. So, as you can tell, my options are limited, but the TJ is a great era though!

1) 1998 TJ (2 door) starting at $6750. She is a green Sahara edition. 4L, new tires, no miles listed.

2) 1999 TJ for $4500( either its a deal or scam) It is in a Sahara tan( one of my favorite colors). She has new tires 4x4, 180k miles, and is a 4cyl.

3) 1999 TJ for $7800. She is white with tan hardtop, has 108k miles, automatic, no rust

4) 1999 TJ for $6500. It is another Sahara edition in green. It says it has a v6 aftermarket(should i be avoiding this), and new tires. Miles are not listed

5) 2000 TJ for $8000 in Yellow. It has a 2.5L( umm??), 4x4, 2 inch body lift, new tires, small amount of surface rust on drive side fender

6) 2000 Sahara for $7500 in green. She is a 4wd, comes with hard and soft top, has a Banks Exhaust, AEM High Performance Intake & Air Filter, Black Powder Coated Rims, and has 136k miles

7) 2000 TJ for $6500. It is a 4.0, has a Automatic Transmission, comes with hard and soft tops. 50% of tire life left. 108k on odometer but 50,000 on engine( is this bad). Says there is some typical, minimal, jeep rust. It is either a khaki TJ picture taken on a cloudy day or is a silver.

8) 2001 TJ for $7500. She is white and is a 6cyl. Never been offroad and was used as summer toy with the top down. She has 164k miles, had s a lift kit( looks like a 3in), new tires that have less thank 4k miles, Runs strong.

9) 2001 TJ for $7800 in silver( great all around color). She is a 4L auto with ac, cruise, am/fm soundbar, almost new tires, has 185k miles, no dents, rust, and comes with a soft top.

10) 2003 TJ X edition in the Khaki/ Sahara Tan color I love! ( said he would sell for right price). She had 102k, is a 6cyl, 5 speed.

11) 2003 TJ for $10500 in a Khaki/Sahara Tan. Comes as a hardtop, 6cyl/5speed, has AC, cruise, 74k miles, new tires and wheels. It has a rebuilt title(is this good)

12) 2003 TJ X edition in a sexy Maroon Red for $9500. She has 101k miles, is a $L auto with a soft top. She comes with a 3 inch lift and 33' Pro Comp tires.

All of these are private listings and not dealer ones. Should I go to a dealer also? I have some of those printed out, but it seems to me they want a lot for a certain year that i could buy way cheaper and get the same TJ. What would you pay for these prices, and if it all, consider looking at them in real life?

I am sure i could definitely negotiate a price with all of these.

I would really like your advice as this is my first Jeep, and want to make a buy that will satisfy me for a very long time! As some people have said, I want a Jeep that speaks to me, haha!

Future mods desired for now:

1) 3 inch lift kit
2) All Terrain Tires
3) Radio, Bumpers, and maybe other things

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Old 04-02-2013, 03:04 PM   #2
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Take your time, because you will want to keep a Jeep a long time (you even say so in your last paragraph). There were a few red flags in these.

1) Not enough information on this one. Mileage/mods/etc. Could be a good one. Auto or manual?

2) That is actually not that low a price, considering the 4 cylinder. I know they tend to be higher, but I would give it a look.

3) Worth a look. White is nice on a Jeep.

4) Why is it a V6 swap? You don't know how well the work was done. How many miles? How many on the engine? I would shy away from this.

5) Check the rust carefully to ensure it is truly "surface" rust. It has a way of becoming more than that very rapidly.

6) I tend to shy away from modified vehicles. What is the quality of the work? If it was done by a quality reputable shop, that's one thing. If it's done at home, it may still be good quality but who knows?

7) Looks like a good price, but the engine would once again push me away. What caused the original 4.0 to fail after only 50,000 miles? These are generally very durable engines, if cared for, and I would be suspicious.

Look at this as an expedition, where you are seeking the best buy for your money. Don't fall in love with the vehicle before it is yours. Don't fall in love with a set of wheels and get stuck with the crappy vehicle attached to them. Have a good mechanic do a thorough check of the vehicle. Pay him.

Some things to look for:

What axles does the vehicle have? If you want to lift and run large tires, you will want D44s (came on the later Rubicon's and optional on other Wranglers).

Pull up the carpet and look for tub rust. A fairly common find as these Jeeps are aging. Not a deal breaker, but something to be aware of and address rapidly. Unless it's all the way through.

Check KBB price for similar vehicles, and be honest about condition. That can be a big help.

Look for a vehicle with great potential, instead of a finished package. The previous owner will have invested in the mods and want something back out of them. Not to say all mods are bad, because I tweak mine, too. Just be wary and make sure you are not paying for accessories you end up ditching. Many Jeeps are never taken off road, so find one that has been cared for and not abused.

When you do get it, it is not a sports car and you should not expect it to behave like one. As a Jeep owner, you will not be a sports car driver. While these things can indeed go fairly fast, they are best driven at speeds of 60 MPH and below. We want you to be safe and a Jeep fan for a long time.

Your parents are doing something very cool here.

Look around and find a very nice vehicle. They are indeed out there.

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Old 04-02-2013, 03:35 PM   #3
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seems like uv been doing a lot of homework on this. big things to watch for is neglect and hidden rust. check everywhere on the vehicle including inside the frame where possible. if u plan on building up try to find a clean stock ride. and just because someone put a lot of time, energy and $ into a ride doesn't mean it is worth more than another. hardest part about buying a used built rig is knowing the specifics of the parts. there are cheap. then there is quality. cheap parts will likely fail in a short period of time. so long story short look for clean, clean, clean...unless u just want a trail rig n plan on building it yourself. but that doesn't sound like what u want right now.
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Old 04-02-2013, 04:42 PM   #4
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I got mine for a daily driver. Maybe i'm wrong but it sounds like that's what you are going for here. If so you are better off going for one that's close to stock mechanically. For instance, no lifts or gear swaps and such. Like Wh33lin said, unless you are very knowledgeable with lifts and such, you just don't know the quality of the parts and workmanship that went into a used jeep.

I would stay away from that V6 (?) one too. Stick with the 4 cyl or I-6 that jeep put in it. Some engine swaps can turn out really nice, but when/if parts fail down the road, it's hard to find what you need to fix it.

4 Cylinder's aren't that bad. Sure they don't have as much horsepower/torque, but the wrangler will never be a sports car anyway. Sorry guys but they have the aerodynamics of a brick and were designed for a different purpose. There are endless opinions on the forums on which one is better.

manual vs. automatics? Again, endless opinions out there which is better. I like my manual, never drove an automatic wrangler though.

and keep in mind kelly blue book when negotiating prices. It is hard to get full blue book value in a resale, unless the thing is rare or super pristine shape, so use that to your advantage.

That being said, a wrangler owner will think his wrangler is worth a lot more than it is because he put a lift or whatever on it. An old, not rare, high mileage vehicle with a fancy lift is stil an old/not rare/high mileage vehicle. Another argument for getting a close to stock wrangler. It's hard to find a reasonably priced modified one, everybody wants too much for it because of the mods. You can't blame them, they dropped a lot of cash on the mods. But vehicles depreciate over time, an unfortunate reality.

Plus when you install the mods yourself it's more fun and you appreciate the vehicle more.
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:25 PM   #5
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I definitely agree with all of you. It will be used as a daily drive/ offroad vehicle. Thank you for the info on all of the mods. It seems at least half of the ones I saw had at least one mod on them, and its hard to find a stock one.

How long should I wait to go look at some? Should I wait a few weeks to see if more pop up? The white one I will give considerations and ignore the other red flags you pointed out. I would eventually like to install mods with either my father or friend( He is jeep savvy, but rich and he bought his with mods and etc)

The v6 engine struck me because they arent in those, so I thought it was a red flag.

What would you pay for a stock jeep from 1998-2003?

I understand that a Jeep is not a sports car. It is to be driven like a SUV with more caution. I dont care if im going slower, Ill just listen to my music, and enjoy the ride with the top down, my sunglasses on, and my hair blowing in the wind!

I also looked up an insurance quote from Geico, it is very cheap to insure. However, my grandfather is a military veteran from Vietnam. So, we use USAA. I haven't looked into their rates for my age
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:38 PM   #6
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give me a few minutes ill post the 2k+ ones i printed out for under 10k. They are ones from dealerships. I could possibly negotiate them down too, probably with cash only.

1) 2005 Jeep Wrangler X for $6995. She has 193k miles, 6 speed auto, I6, Silver. looks stock

2) 2002 Jeep Wrangler X for $8200. She has 130k miles, auto, and a I6, Blue. Looks stock

3) 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $9495( seems overpriced). 4x4, 4L, 5 speed manual, cd player, ac, sound bar. Fully inspected and warranty is offered, along with financing No mods

4) 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $9999( overpriced). She is a tan, 4.0L engine, auto trans, 4wd, with 138k miles with a ton of features. It is stock no mods

I was going to do another, but it had mods

What do you think of these options from dealers? Are they overpriced? Could I negotiate them down?
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Old 04-02-2013, 07:37 PM   #7
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I missed this somewhere but are these dealer prices or private owner prices?


If dealer prices you can always talk em down. Say they want $8,000 for it (just a random number) just mention to the salesman something to the effect of "look you paid like $3000 for this thing, It blue books for $7,000 in excellent shape, i'll give you $5,000 if you want it gone today" Shift the numbers around for the price they want and obviously check out the real bluebook value. But they paid bottom dollar for it, probably got it at an auction or something on the cheap. Talk em down man, plenty other dealers and TJ's in the sea if they won't deal.

On used vehicles, they are losing money if it takes up space on their lot for too long. They make their money off of moving a lot of cars, not making a killing off each car. Make them an offer where they still get a little profit and you can most likely carve a grand or 2 off the price after their counter offers and such.

Private owner's generally don't have that cushion from buying at a low price, and won't budge as much on their price.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #8
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I'd go for later years with lower miles and less, or NO mods. Get as stock as you can, means "it ain't been messed with". As much.

I have an '01 stocker that I bought 3 years ago for 12k. I could easily sell it for 11k. 70K miles on it. Look for something like that. Go with the 4.0 if you can. The first two '03s in your first post caught my eye. Get a local jeeper who knows this stuff to check them out. What you see is pretty. It's what you DON'T see that will bite you.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:22 PM   #9
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stay a way from 2 8 9 11... imo

as others have said low mile and as stock as you can get it

id take a look at 10..
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:26 PM   #10
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Do you have the feeling you will get bitten by the Jeep bug & want to go with bigger tires & a locker so you can take it on tough trails?

If so, you want to find a Wrangler with the optional extra-cost & MUCH stronger Dana 44 rear axle installed instead of the weaker standard Dana 35. Most people selling Jeeps don't know the difference between them so if their Wrangler has the Dana 44, they likely won't realize it or charge extra for it.

Look at the below photos & learn what the two rear axles look like. If you find a Jeep with the Dana 44 rear axle (the front axle almost looks like a Dana 44 but is not), don't say anything or the seller might up his price.

Just keep in mind the standard weaker Dana 35 has a oval shaped differential cover with a black plastic snap-in plug in the lubricant fill hole. Black plastic plug = weak axle.

The stronger Dana 44 has a stop-sign shaped differential cover with a threaded steel bolt plug in its lubricant fill hole. Steel bolt plug in cover = strong axle.
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Slovpeter View Post
give me a few minutes ill post the 2k+ ones i printed out for under 10k. They are ones from dealerships. I could possibly negotiate them down too, probably with cash only.

1) 2005 Jeep Wrangler X for $6995. She has 193k miles, 6 speed auto, I6, Silver. looks stock

2) 2002 Jeep Wrangler X for $8200. She has 130k miles, auto, and a I6, Blue. Looks stock

3) 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $9495( seems overpriced). 4x4, 4L, 5 speed manual, cd player, ac, sound bar. Fully inspected and warranty is offered, along with financing No mods

4) 2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport for $9999( overpriced). She is a tan, 4.0L engine, auto trans, 4wd, with 138k miles with a ton of features. It is stock no mods

I was going to do another, but it had mods

What do you think of these options from dealers? Are they overpriced? Could I negotiate them down?
thats not bad at all seems how you could probly get it for likr 8... baring condition and miles that could be a steal.. id al so look at that if its under 150k
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:31 PM   #12
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Do you have the feeling you will get bitten by the Jeep bug & want to go with bigger tires & a locker so you can take it on tough trails?

If so, you want to find a Wrangler with the optional extra-cost & MUCH stronger Dana 44 rear axle installed instead of the weaker standard Dana 35. Most people selling Jeeps don't know the difference between them so if their Wrangler has the Dana 44, they likely won't realize it or charge extra for it.

Look at the below photos & learn what the two rear axles look like. If you find a Jeep with the Dana 44 rear axle (the front axle almost looks like a Dana 44 but is not), don't say anything or the seller might up his price.

Just keep in mind the standard weaker Dana 35 has a oval shaped differential cover with a black plastic snap-in plug in the lubricant fill hole. Black plastic plug = weak axle.

The stronger Dana 44 has a stop-sign shaped differential cover with a threaded steel bolt plug in its lubricant fill hole. Steel bolt plug in cover = strong axle.

thanks for that :-)
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:16 PM   #13
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I missed this somewhere but are these dealer prices or private owner prices?


If dealer prices you can always talk em down. Say they want $8,000 for it (just a random number) just mention to the salesman something to the effect of "look you paid like $3000 for this thing, It blue books for $7,000 in excellent shape, i'll give you $5,000 if you want it gone today" Shift the numbers around for the price they want and obviously check out the real bluebook value. But they paid bottom dollar for it, probably got it at an auction or something on the cheap. Talk em down man, plenty other dealers and TJ's in the sea if they won't deal.

On used vehicles, they are losing money if it takes up space on their lot for too long. They make their money off of moving a lot of cars, not making a killing off each car. Make them an offer where they still get a little profit and you can most likely carve a grand or 2 off the price after their counter offers and such.

Private owner's generally don't have that cushion from buying at a low price, and won't budge as much on their price.
The First list are private sellers i found on a craigslist search in my area. The 2nd list are dealers. Thank you for the advice and I will keep that in mind. I have been looking at KBB values and they have helped me find a baseline on what prices to shoot for!
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Do you have the feeling you will get bitten by the Jeep bug & want to go with bigger tires & a locker so you can take it on tough trails?

If so, you want to find a Wrangler with the optional extra-cost & MUCH stronger Dana 44 rear axle installed instead of the weaker standard Dana 35. Most people selling Jeeps don't know the difference between them so if their Wrangler has the Dana 44, they likely won't realize it or charge extra for it.

Look at the below photos & learn what the two rear axles look like. If you find a Jeep with the Dana 44 rear axle (the front axle almost looks like a Dana 44 but is not), don't say anything or the seller might up his price.

Just keep in mind the standard weaker Dana 35 has a oval shaped differential cover with a black plastic snap-in plug in the lubricant fill hole. Black plastic plug = weak axle.

The stronger Dana 44 has a stop-sign shaped differential cover with a threaded steel bolt plug in its lubricant fill hole. Steel bolt plug in cover = strong axle.

Thank you for the info. I will use that to my advantage. I want this vehicle to still be able to be driven on roads, and of fraod. However, the offraoding is not extreme and I could just put 31's on it with a 3 inch lift.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:22 PM   #15
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I'd go for later years with lower miles and less, or NO mods. Get as stock as you can, means "it ain't been messed with". As much.

I have an '01 stocker that I bought 3 years ago for 12k. I could easily sell it for 11k. 70K miles on it. Look for something like that. Go with the 4.0 if you can. The first two '03s in your first post caught my eye. Get a local jeeper who knows this stuff to check them out. What you see is pretty. It's what you DON'T see that will bite you.
Thank you for the info I will keep that in mind!

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Originally Posted by kyle32 View Post
stay a way from 2 8 9 11... imo

as others have said low mile and as stock as you can get it

id take a look at 10..
Why would you recommend staying away from these? A few of these look good to check out according to another on this forum. If you could answer why it would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-02-2013, 10:24 PM   #16
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thats not bad at all seems how you could probly get it for likr 8... baring condition and miles that could be a steal.. id al so look at that if its under 150k
its 108k miles so i guess the price is good for the condition. It is a Maroon Red which is a great color on jeeps in my opinion.
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:02 AM   #17
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Take your time and don't get too anxious. You can make big mistakes when you jump on what can be perceived as a deal. It looks like you've done a good amount of research, which can only help. I browsed Craigslist daily for 6 months before I found the right TJ. I agree with the other posters as far as getting a TJ as close to stock and with as little miles as possible. If you take your time and keep an eye out you're bound to find your perfect Wrangler!

With that being said, the listings you posted seem to all have higher mileage. I would definitely ask the owner for proof of work done on the vehicle. My mechanic once said that he'd rather buy a car with high mileage and proof of routine maintenance than a car with low mileage that has never been to the shop.

I'd definitely follow up on listing #10. Like the other posters have said, examine the vehicle carefully. I didn't realize there was a rip in the armrest until I drove it home.
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Old 04-03-2013, 02:35 AM   #18
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SLOVPETER: you've got a lot of candidates, that is great. but to be really confident you are getting what you want at a good price you have to physically go out and inspect and drive these jeeps, you can't just rely on the words and pix in an ad.

low mileage, all-stock, unmolested TJ's are almost always a better buy. good luck.
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Old 04-03-2013, 03:40 AM   #19
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Having just bought a tj in December, I've since learned A LOT.... Take heed of Jerry's post. The 44 is a huge deal. You think 31's for now, but that may change.... And with this being relied upon for daily driving, that peace of mind is huge. With the Dana 35 which is pretty weak, if the axle shaft breaks, your rear tire literally falls off the car.

In the 4 months I've owned mine I have done extensive modifications, winch, axle swap to the 44 mentioned, a different front hp30, both regeared to 4.56 for 33's and locked, some armor, bumper, sliders, lights, new shocks, stronger steering, disc brakes in the rear, and its just getting started. Mine seemed perfect at purchase and had an incredible maintenance history, but has since begun to spring leaks at the rear main seal (DEFINITELY CHECK FOR THIS), as well as between the transfer case and tranny. Lower miles may have been favorable here.


Watch the gear ratios if you want to run 31's.... Try for a 3.73 at minimum preferably a 4.10.


If I could do it again, I'd have purchased a rubicon for what I have into mine now (4:1 transfer case, Dana 44 axles front and rear and lockers from the factory) otherwise just a more built rig.... There are countless with half the miles I have on mine and would have been into them for the same I am now..... None of these things mattered to me until I learned the significance of each as well as the potential of being stranded on the trail.

Also, I would hold out for a 4.0. These are not powerful vehicles... I've heard plenty of people say they regretted the 2.5 but not one that regrets the 4.0 engine
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:46 AM   #20
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Why would you recommend staying away from these? A few of these look good to check out according to another on this forum. If you could answer why it would be greatly appreciated.
2 8 9 are all to high in miles.. 11 just worries me..
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:47 AM   #21
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its 108k miles so i guess the price is good for the condition. It is a Maroon Red which is a great color on jeeps in my opinion.
yea with out pics or any thing that one is my fav
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:21 AM   #22
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Another buying tool, if buying from a private owner, is take it to a mechanic for a once over if you really like it. It helps to have a mechanic friend that won't charge you a crazy fee, this cost will be on you, but it's worth it for piece of mind.

Just tell them, I am willing o make a deal on this. I really like the vehicle but I would like to take it to a mechanic for a once over. If the owner refuses, there is probably something wrong with it they don't want to tell you about, and you don't want that car anyway. If they agree, then a good mechanic will catch the little stuff that you would otherwise overlook. This will give you an idea what maintenance costs you will be into up front. In the long run it can save you a little money, and weed out some dishonest sellers.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:11 PM   #23
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We just bought our first Jeep, a '04 Rubicon with 47K miles. It took us 1 month serious looking and lots of long drives to look at Rubicons. And about 2 months before that of looking before we were ready to buy. Every Jeep we looked at we learnd something, so when we found the right one we jumped on it quick. Read these forums to learn as much as you can. We completely changed what we were looking for based on info learned from these forums. We decided we needed a Dana 44, 4.11 axle ratio, 16" rims, and locking axles, which moved us up to a '03 or newer Rubicon. We felt we wanted the above items so that we could eventually do 33" right. We were looking for unmodified, but found one with a 3" lift, skid plates, and rear bumper/tire carrier that apeared to have been done right. Of course we went way over our intitial budget, but we got a lot nicer vehicle than we were intitially looking for. Good luck.
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Old 04-04-2013, 05:01 AM   #24
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yeah, it takes time to find a good one. That goes for any vehicle. I think I was checking craigslist and classifieds in the paper for like a month before I even found one I wanted to go look at. I think it was closer to 3 months before I found the one I wanted. It wasn't a perfect vehicle, had a few noticeable scratches on it and such, but it was mechanically well maintained. Kind of high mileage, but high mileage on a well maintained vehicle is a different story.

if you can deal with a dana 35, I would recommend the X model. generally cheaper, but the biggest drawback is they didn't have that option for a 44. Personally, i'm not lifting it and putting big tires on so the D35 isn't a problem for me.
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:22 AM   #25
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Best advice I can give is take your time and always, always, always run a Carfax (spring for the unlimited reports option) on any vehicle you are looking at. I've owned a number of Jeeps, but still use this as a tool for decision making. This will help you identify salvage or previously wrecked vehicles. When making my latest purchase, '05 "X", I looked at at least a dozen or more vehicles. One in particular had a good/fair price, appeared well cared for, had low miles, had good maintenance records, and came many extras that would be included with the purchase. However, when I ran a Carfax it showed that it was reported stolen, and had three separate accidents. When I asked the owner about it he finally admitted that he knew about the history, but didn't openly disclose it. My point here is do your homework and be patient! There are many good Jeeps out there waiting for a new owner. Also, as others have said, stay as close to stock as possible and look for valuable options that you may want later. For example:

A/C
Dana 44 rear
Rear disc brakes (this was an option on later years, '03 - '06 I believe)
Cruise Control
Auto dimming and Temperature mirror

to name a few. I'm not saying all these are necessary, but that you should consider them when making the purchase. Bottom line though, look for a clean well cared for vehicle that you can make your own. Good luck on the hunt. It's part of the fun in owning a Jeep. One last thing, don't forget to wave once you do get one!
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Old 04-04-2013, 06:44 AM   #26
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I'll second carfax. I ran one on every jeep I thought about. It eliminated some before I wasted time driving to look at them.
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Old 04-04-2013, 07:07 AM   #27
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You can also remember this little tip... If there are oversize tires on it and the speedometer gear hasn't been changed, depending on the size of the tires and how long they have been on the vehicle, the odometer might show 105,000 miles when in actuality, the Jeep might have 140,000 or more on it. Of course, those numbers were just thrown out for an example.

Good luck and remember... never be afraid to walk away from a deal. If it's not a good deal for the buyer and the seller, it not a good deal.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:15 PM   #28
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Wow, thank you guys so much for the information! I have narrowed down my list of ones to look at and are looking for more on craigslist.

Does 150k miles and less matter as much? I was looking for all stock that way, I could get the price down to the lowest KBB value which I have been using.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:48 AM   #29
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I don't know what is considered high mileage for a jeep, but i got mine with 146k miles on it (02 X, 4.0, 5 speed). I did have to replace an O2 sensor after about 10k and the battery was old and had to be replaced but otherwise no problems out of her (that i didn't create myself). And the battery is just regular maintenance that you expect to change out eventually anyway.

I think 150k you would still be safe if it can be proven the vehicle was well maintained. I can't speak for the 4 cyl engine though as I have never owned one.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:52 AM   #30
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^i've always subscribed to the idea that, when it comes to used vehicles, overall condition and care is more important than mileage.

there are a lot of "low" mileage terd TJ's out there, beware.

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