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Old 11-17-2010, 08:51 PM   #1
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To all of you 8.8 swap guys...

I just recently read about possibly having to shorten your driveshaft if you do this swap. Is there a way to avoid this on the swap (other than the SYE and new d-shaft)? I was just curious if this is a normal occurence during the swap, or if it can be avoided? I will be doing this swap around the first of the month.

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Old 11-17-2010, 08:55 PM   #2
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Well ya but you then you would have to do a bunch of fab work to get it to work. I mean stretch the rear out but then you changing a bunch. Why a 8.8? IF your going to go thru all of that work get a true dana 44 rear or a ford 9in for the same price.

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Old 11-17-2010, 08:58 PM   #3
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I found a few 8.8s very close to me for 100 bucks. I was just curious if the DS issue was normal or if it just depended on the amount of lift like most DS angle issues.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:00 PM   #4
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You still need a new shaft as the yoke is different or so I have heard.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:01 PM   #5
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You still need a new shaft as the yoke is different or so I have heard.
You can get an adapter so that you can use your normal drive shaft.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:28 PM   #6
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IF your going to go thru all of that work get a true dana 44 rear
Because the 8.8 is a much stronger axle then the Dana 44. Plus I don't know if they make a 9" with the shortened wheelbase (unless out of a Mustang, which might be a lower spline count).

I've never heard of a problem with the DS/CV needing to be shortened, and I haven't run into that problem, but I don't have a lift.

KnowWhere2Jeep has a complete installation kit for $425 that I would highly recommend to pick up. You're simply looking at $200 for the axle (try to find disc brakes and an LSD) and the installation kit. Weld up the brackets and redo the gearing if you'd like. The kit even includes a stronger cover and ZJ brake lines. That's $625 there total if you can weld yourself.

Gearing is a wash for both. Do it yourself or pay a shop and you'll pay the same both axles. The D44 really is only slightly stronger then the D35c. The 8.8 beats the D44 in terms of looking at a shortened width, and then the D60 is the next big daddy that you're looking to step up to if you're running massive 37+ tires.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:56 PM   #7
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The stock DS is too short for comfort already. Add in the extra pinion offset on the Explorer 8.8, and it isn't gonna be any the happier. Super-short SYE and a new rear shaft and you'll have a happy Jeep.
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:19 PM   #8
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You'll need to shorten your stock DS. Ideally, a SYE/DS would be the way to go.

And Burton is right. Ford's 8.8 is much stronger than a D44.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:11 AM   #9
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I will beg to differ in a ford 8.8 is stronger then a true 44 not a jeep 44 but a ford 44/chevy 44. 8.8 is a 1/2ton 44 is 3/4 to 1 ton setup.
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:28 AM   #10
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You'll need to shorten your stock DS. Ideally, a SYE/DS would be the way to go.

And Burton is right. Ford's 8.8 is much stronger than a D44.
What is it that affects this? I have read installs where people were fine with their stock DS as is and I have read installs where people had to have it shortened. Im not arguing that it must be shortened, I am just kind of confused on what causes it to be too long?
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Old 11-18-2010, 12:28 AM   #11
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I will beg to differ in a ford 8.8 is stronger then a true 44 not a jeep 44 but a ford 44/chevy 44. 8.8 is a 1/2ton 44 is 3/4 to 1 ton setup.
Ewwwwww.... get out of here with that kinda talk! Yea, you're right a 8.8 shortie isn't going to compare to a 44-full. But if you're in the tight trails I'm in, I'd pick the shortie any day. But I'm also not going to need to run over 35s or else I'll get the Jeep caught in some trees.
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Old 11-18-2010, 01:29 AM   #12
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I will beg to differ in a ford 8.8 is stronger then a true 44 not a jeep 44 but a ford 44/chevy 44. 8.8 is a 1/2ton 44 is 3/4 to 1 ton setup.
I thought you knew better Josh? 8.8 IS stronger than a D44... cause we are talking JEEPs.


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