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Towing - 2003 TJ

8K views 40 replies 17 participants last post by  Water Dog 
#1 ·
I need your thoughts on towing 2003 TJ. I will be towing it probably twice a year (at the most) and the distance with be about 450 miles for each round trip. One trip will be through the hills of WV and another will be on flat lands down to the outer banks of NC. I'm towing it with a F150 super cab.

I bought the jeep about year and a half ago and its in good shape although it was a refurbished totaled vehicle. It has an after market front bumper -- no idea what kind and its lifted about 2 to 3 inches with 33 inch tires.

I'm leaning toward getting a tow dolly and it is my understanding I have to remove the rear drive shaft. Right?? The price is around $1,000 (which is near my limit). Should I get one with breaks?

What about the tow bar option -- do you need the breaks wire up? Are there other considerations?
 
#2 ·
I would not flat tow a wrangler or tow one on a dolly in hills (or on flat ground for that matter) without an auxiliary braking system. We have flat towed ours for thousands of miles behind our motor home, and i wouldn't consider pulling it with even that without brakes.
If you're only doing this twice a year, why not just rent a car trailer.
You are right that the only way to tow it on a dolly is to pull the rear drive shaft.
 
#4 ·
Flat towing is easy with a Wrangler. Attach your tow bar, put the transfer case in neutral and leave your transmission in gear. Make certain that your steering wheel is unlocked and you're good to go. If you're towing in the hills and want additional braking power which is good, you can install an aux brake system which is electric and sits on the floorboard. These systems are electric and easily removable when you get to your destination. They sell for about $1,000 new but can usually be found used for much less.
 
#24 ·
you can install an aux brake system which is electric and sits on the floorboard. These systems are electric and easily removable when you get to your destination. They sell for about $1,000 new but can usually be found used for much less.
Can anyone give a source to find used aux brake systems. I am trying craigslist but my searches don't come up with anything.
Is there an RV board anyone knows of that has for sale sections I might try?

I've flat towed many miles over the years here in California without aux brakes, but don't want to any longer.

Thanks
 
#5 ·
I have towed my Jeep from South Louisiana to Colorado 3 times (2400 miles round trip). I use a tow bar and a tow bar adapter to connect to the D ring attachment on the bumper. Bought some magnetic lights from Harbor Freight. I am towing it with a F-250 without any brake control. I tow it on 1-70 west of Denver to Silverthorne, aka the "Ike Gauntlet", with no problem.
 
#6 ·
I have my Jeep set up for flat tow with a HF tow bar and magnetic lights. I used the Warrior brackets to adapt to the bumper I welded together. I use T-Hooks into the frame for the safety cables. I'm towing with a Dodge 3/4 ton diesel.

However, when the time comes to tow 450 miles for a trip, I'm renting a damn U-haul trailer with brakes. I don't have a house with side space to store a trailer, and I wouldn't want to pay registration fees or storage fees for a trailer or dolly that only gets used twice a year.
 
#7 ·
The requirements for towed vehicle to have a braking system varies from state to state. Go to an RV dealer and they will probably have a chart showing all the state laws.As it happens yesterday I attended a talk about dinghy towing by a representative from Blue Ox products and he informed us there is a federal law that says towed vehicles need braking and he got caught once without a supplemental brake system and it cost him $800.
 
#8 ·
I tow with HF tow bar, had a plug installed on the front bumper with wiring through the frame for rear lights. When I upgrade to a bumper with D-rings, MetalCloak sells adapters for about $55 that fit the tow bar and hook up to D-ring brackets.

My jeep is fairly light, soft top, usually half doors and only on 31s so I have no issue with brakes behind my GMC Denali. Some states definitely have regulations on the need for brakes, but they generally apply to trailers NOT "toads"
 
#13 ·
Stephanva,
Well Sir, you're making this way harder than you need to. In the RV world, a Jeep Wrangler, just about any year, is easily flat towable. Flat towing them is phenomenally easier than even thinking about a dolly. Setting them up for towing is, for the most part, extremely simple. Now, you say you've got an aftermarket bumper.

We need pics of it to help you determine what's your next move. You see, many aftermarket bumpers come with what's called "recovery" tabs. Those tabs usually sport a D-ring, one on each side of the bumper. Well, those tabs can be normally about 3/4" - 1" thick. It just so happens that, Blue Ox and other aftermarket manufacturers, make adapters for Blue Ox tow bars that adapt to those tabs.

When it comes time for towing, you simply remove the D-rings and, hook up your already adapted tow bar, DONE! Then, hook up a couple of safety cables and a pig tail for wiring and, you're off to the races.

As for wiring, that's about as simple as you can get with a wrangler. Many run and hide when I mention tying into the factory wiring for toad lights. But, we've towed 11 different vehicles over a 35 year period and, 8 of them have been Jeep Wranglers. Each and every one of them has been wired the exact same way for towing. I utilize the stock tail lights and bulbs for toad lights. That way, when folks are following your jeep while you're towing it, the jeeps tail lights act the same exact way when towing it, as they do when driving it.

That's phenomenally better than adding a socket and bulb, magnetic lights, light bars that go into the receiver and anything else. If you'd like help in wiring, PM me and I'd be glad to show you how simple and easy it is.

Scott
 
#16 ·
Just a small quibble, but most states only require auxiliary braking on TRAILERS, not flat towed cars. Prudence and common sense should rule here, but very few states have any braking requirements for dinghy vehicles.
 
#19 ·
Stephenva - I agree with FIRE UP that flat towing a Jeep Wrangler is a simple endeavor and many of us have done it for many thousands of miles without issue. The only tricky part is you can't back up the RV (or truck) with the RV attached 4 down unless you are much more talented that I am.

Brakes or no brakes is often debated. While a lot of people will try to boil it down having a tow vehicle that is as BILLIEBOB wrote above; "big enough to tow a Wrangler without brakes". It is not that simple.

Many states have very particular rules about when a brake is necessary. When researching those rules, one thing I would keep in mind is that there are as many websites listing the towing requirements for each state as there are brake manufacturers.

I noticed in your original post you mentioned travelling through NC. Here is what I found on the AAA website about towing laws in NC.

"Every semitrailer, trailer, or separate vehicle attached by a drawbar or coupling to a towing vehicle of at least 4,000 lbs., and every house trailer weighing at least 1,000 lbs., shall be equipped with brakes controlled or operated by the driver of the towing vehicle."​

No matter what you decide after doing a bit of research, I would imagine that if you have an accident that might have been prevented by an auxiliary brake you would have a hard time convincing those involved that your tow rig was "big enough to tow a Wrangler without brakes".

My advice to you would be to do your homework and maybe call your insurance agent
 
#20 ·
I agree with most folks here that braking systems are a smart idea. What I do not agree with is stating it is "illegal" and secondhand unsubstantiated Insurance/lawyer horror stories that rarely if ever happen. I have been in the RV business for decades and never once heard of an insurance company denying an accident claim. I can't speak to lawsuits, but I heard Starbucks is being sued for $5 million because they aren't putting enough ounces of coffee in a cup, so I guess it may happen. The same myth-making has most people thinking it's illegal to drive barefoot or with doors off(yes, I know Pennsylvania occasionally gets folks for doors off) and doesn't buttress ones' argument factually.

Be smart, know your limits, check the laws of the state you tow through. Filter out the hearsay and use common sense (and a braking system if you need it).
 
#21 ·
Legal or illegal, axillary braking systems are great.
I dolly towed a 94 Toyota Camry 'cross the country for over 3000 miles without a brake system on the dolly. This was behind a 42' Class A diesel pusher. Couldn't tell it was there pulling, but could sure tell it was there when stopping.
Bought the Jeep and picked up a tow bar/base plates/braking system for $50. Yes, I stole it from the seller - it was stuff they didn't need.
Have towed the Jeep for 1200 miles behind the RV so far. Can't tell it's there pulling, but I can sure tell the difference stopping with the axillary braking system. Quicker, smoother and easier on the foot!
All it takes is one quick stop to push you sideways or into a busy intersection to realize you need an axillary system on your Toad or trailer. Mine was with the Camry on a 22' car carrier without brakes. Quick stop from about 35mph at a busy intersection. I was STANDING on the air brakes in the RV and still went about 10' past my white line, as the light turned red. Never again!!!

My 2c worth.
 
#22 ·
This is my thread on how I set my TJ to flat tow with the Harbor Freight tow bar. I probably tow my TJ about 500-1000 miles a year behind my Ram 3500...with no aux brakes. Tows and stops like a dream. Heck, the TJ weighes less than most fiberglass boats that don't have brakes on the trailer.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/setting-up-my-tj-to-flat-tow-136535.html





 
#23 ·
Mine is very similar, Dex. I tow mine behind a Denali with the HF tow bar. I'll add that metalcloak sells adapters for D-ring brackets that fit perfectly on the HF bar, and only cost $54.
 
#25 ·
Google.......
Brake buddy Buddy brake Ready brake

Will give your new and used options
 
#27 ·
Google.......
Brake buddy Buddy brake Ready brake

Will give your new and used options
Thank you for that.
I'm still having trouble finding used listings. I could google easier when I'm at home rather than here at work.

However, I do see that the Ready Brake system is in the $400 range new. That's an easier bill to deal with rather than the >$1K units.

I don't know how some of the other units work. This Ready Brake looks like it works similar to the brakeing system on my boat trailer. Brakes on stopping pressure on the tow hitch. I'm used to that.

Does anyone have experience, opinions on the Ready Brake system?
And what about an accidental break away? My boat trailer has a connection when pulled away from the towing vehicle it locks up the breaks. I didn't notice if the RB has a similar safety feature.
 
#26 ·
Many states consider a toad a trailer. Same laws, same outcomes. If it breaks loose, and you don't have an auxiliary braking system, your insurance company may or may not decline to cover you. But the damages could be way above your policy limits, even if they do cover it. If it crosses the interstate and kills a family on vacation in their minivan, you're toast. I don't care what state you're in. There will be criminal negligence charges at the very least, and likely manslaughter or involuntary manslaughter. There is no valid reason to avoid using auxiliary braking systems in a toad.
 
#28 ·
With a bit more searching I found something that opens up new questions for me.

http://www.amazon.com/NSA-RV-Produc...F8&qid=1462477522&sr=8-2&keywords=ready+brake

The Ready Stop system is the emergency break away device I am more interested in rather than just a brake assist system. And this is only $80 on Amazon.

I assume this would satisfy state and/or insurance requirements to have a break system on a toad.

Any opinions or comments on this or similar break away device, or on the choice to use only this without a break assist system?

Thanks all
 
#29 ·
The same style break away system is used by several different braking systems. Will work without a supplemental braking system.
No power required to use it.

Brake buddy (sits on floor in front of seat) uses an internal break away setup, as do many others. Still requires a cable to the tow vehicle.

As I said, I stole my setup. Actually got it off Letgo. CraigslistPro for your phone will let you specify multiple areas to search at once.
Don't forget eBay.
 
#31 ·
Well,
We've been towing Jeeps, ( 8 different ones) for over 35 years and, have used two different types of auxiliary braking systems for them. Now, unless something's seriously changed in the towing/auxiliary braking systems/actuators/ etc. type braking systems for toads, a "BREAK AWAY" system is NOT the auxiliary braking system that one installs in a toad, or Jeep for all you Jeep folks out there.

A break-a-way system is designed to activate an EXISTING AUXILIARY braking system should the coach/towing vehicle BREAK AWAY from the toad/Jeep. Someone mentioned using just a break-a-way system instead of the ACTUAL braking system that would be installed in their Jeep. Well, just exactly WHAT are you going to hook that break-a-way system up to, in your toad or Jeep, if you don't have any form of auxiliary braking system on board???

Depending on what kind of braking system you install, a break-a-way system is designed for that SPECIFIC type/style of brake system. They ARE NOT UNIVERSAL!

The first system we used for quite a few years was the cheapest, efficient brake actuation system you could get at the time. It's called the "Ready Brake" system. If you're not familiar, it's simply a surge brake system, very simalar to a surge brake system that's used on ten zillion boat trailer out there.

The main difference is, boat trailer utilize a sliding hydraulic master cylinder to actuate the boat trailer brakes to assist in slowing and stopping. But, the Ready Brake system utilizes a cable actuator, attached to your ball slider on the back of your coach/truck etc. It has a sliding component, inside the unit itself that, when inertia is encountered, the actuator slides forward which, pivots a lever that sticks out of the top of the unit.

That lever, is attached to a cable, that's attached to your jeeps brake pedal. When you apply the brakes on the coach/truck, the coach starts to slow down, the inertia of the Jeep behind it, pushes on the actuator which, intern pivots the lever which, pulls on the cable which, pulls on the Jeeps brake arm. That's how that works.

But, in the event your tow bar breaks and you loose the physical connection between the coach and Jeep, there's a small auxiliary steel cable that pulls on the "BREAK-A-WAY" which, pulls on the cable to the brake arm. There is no way to release the break-a-way without actually disabling it, via a set of instructions.


The second and present type of auxiliary braking system we now use is called the M & G braking system. It utilizes air pressure from our coaches air brakes, to activate a diaphram that I installed between master cylinder and the power brake unit. It's specifically designed for diesel coaches with air brakes but, they've also developed a system for gas coaches with hydraulic brake systems too.

With the M & G Braking system, there is absolutely NOTHING connected to the brake pedal inside the Jeep. Nothing has to be installed, each and every time we tow our Jeep. The only thing that needs to be placed in between the coach and the Jeep is small, curely cue air brake hose. It takes me a whopping 4-5 seconds to hook up that brake system, DONE!

But, each type of auxiliary braking system, Ready Brake, Brake Buddy, Even Brake, SMI, Air-Force 1, M & G Braking system, and more, all have their own break-a-way system.

Scott
 
#32 ·
NSA RV Products offers both the Ready Break which is the aux surge break system you describe, and the READY STOP which is the break away system. Perhaps in the past this was an all-in-one unit, but looks like they now offer these separately and the ready stop is a stand alone system.
 
#35 ·
We have used the ready brake and the break away system for several years and thousands of miles without any issues at all. They are two independent systems and each has a separate cable that is joined to the brake pedal arm. The break away cable goes through a locking box that is mounted to the Jeep frame so that once the cable is pulled it will not be released, until you release it at the box.

We use the Ready Brute adjustable tow bar with the ready brake (auxiliary brake system) built in to it. It's a nice package and relative inexpensive for someone looking for an adjustable tow bar plus a braking system when compared to the other options.
 

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