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Old 01-24-2010, 02:25 PM   #1
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towing a 2000 wrangler

I have a 4.0 - 2000 - Standard tranny that I am going to flat tow behind a motorhome - Somewhere I read that ther is one fuse you can take out to keep your battery from going dead - I remember also seeing a picture of which fuse it was, but it didn't match what I have. - Also it looks like I just have to put the transfer case in neutral and transmission in gear for oil movement - I have seen different ideas on which gear - I would think as long as it is gear is all I would need..

thanx......Ron

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Old 01-24-2010, 02:37 PM   #2
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Being in any gear is fine for flat towing, just don't have the transmission in Neutral. Transfer case in in Neutral of course.

No need to remove a fuse to prevent the battery from going dead while flat towing. Unlock the ignition switch so the steering wheel is unlocked but don't turn the switch far enough for it to be in the 'On' or 'Acc'. position.

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Old 01-24-2010, 04:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Being in any gear is fine for flat towing, just don't have the transmission in Neutral. Transfer case in in Neutral of course.

No need to remove a fuse to prevent the battery from going dead while flat towing. Unlock the ignition switch so the steering wheel is unlocked but don't turn the switch far enough for it to be in the 'On' or 'Acc'. position.
like he said.i put transmission in 3rd gear.towed all over west no problem.
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Old 01-24-2010, 06:39 PM   #4
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I went to Jeep and found that it doesn't matter if you put the tranny in neutral or not. I tow my jeep 4 down with a Road Master Sterling All Terrain tow bar. However, I have talked to many people who tow Jeeps and got a lot feedback from them. Tow in NEUTRAL and the Transfer Case in Neutral. Why? Because if the transfer case should slip back into gear, your tranny is still in Neutral. doing this doesn't hurt a thing.

As far as the removing a fuse. There's no need to do it. By the way you know most states require that anything over 1000 lbs. must have brakes. Do you have a braking unit? If you do you'd know tha tthe battery has to connect for it to work (the braking units are powered by the Jeeps battery). Another thing is the Brake lights/turn signals you have an electrical connection to power them correct?

If you have anymore questions text me and we can talk. I do all the things I've listed above and tow many care free miles with my 1999 TJ 4cyl.
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:13 PM   #5
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I went to Jeep and found that it doesn't matter if you put the tranny in neutral or not. I tow my jeep 4 down with a Road Master Sterling All Terrain tow bar. However, I have talked to many people who tow Jeeps and got a lot feedback from them. Tow in NEUTRAL and the Transfer Case in Neutral. Why? Because if the transfer case should slip back into gear, your tranny is still in Neutral. doing this doesn't hurt a thing.
Read your owners manual and you'll find that it disagrees with you. The reason the transmission needs to be in gear or Park while flat towing is to prevent its bearings from burning out from lack of lubrication. The transmission's gear lube/ATF pump doesn't work when you're flat towing it and parasitic drag on the input shaft will start the internals spinning without lubrication. That's why the TJ's transmissions need to be in gear or Park, to prevent things from spinning inside when there is no ATF or gear lube being pumped & circulated.

Again, your owners manual will confirm this... transmission in Park or in gear, and the transfer case in Neutral for flat towing.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:10 PM   #6
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yea Jerry - I kinda have to agree with you - My son is a pretty good mechanic and he understood why the tranny had to be in gaer - You are spinning a rear bearing with the driveshaft and now way to oil it unless other gears are turning - As far as lights, I have a magnetic light setup for brake, running and turn signals that will attach to the back bumper and run off my trailer light socket from the motorhome - I don't have a brake setup - there are a lot of things like boats & trailers etc. that do not have brakes on them???
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:38 PM   #7
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I also just discovered that I do not have to turn the key part way on to free the front wheels - with my key in the off position, and key removed, my steering wheel is still free to turn - Is this normal???? (not complaining!!)
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Old 02-25-2010, 02:53 PM   #8
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It may look like its not locked but it more then likely will be. Mine does the same thing but one or two good turns of the wheel and it will lock. Don't take any chances keep the key in the unlock position.

I'd also like to reiterate that ^^Jerry^^ is correct the book does say that the tranny needs to be in gear and the transfer case in neitral. I took the book to my local Jeep dealer "WHO TOLD ME OTHERWISE". Now this is the good part.....they (the dealer) offered to remove my tranny/tranfer case and check it out at no cost to me. I gladly accepted which found no issues (happy about that) so I had them throw in a new clutch while it was out. Total cost to me $47.80 for some labor.

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Old 02-25-2010, 03:16 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ronpete13 View Post
I also just discovered that I do not have to turn the key part way on to free the front wheels - with my key in the off position, and key removed, my steering wheel is still free to turn - Is this normal???? (not complaining!!)
It will eventually lock as the front tires turn left or right while following you through turns. If you turn your steering wheel far enough when the key is out, it will lock.
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:06 AM   #10
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Gotcha - You might have just saved me a lot of "Tire Wear" and a lot of embarrassment - -Thanx
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:21 PM   #11
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Don't forget to wire up the tail lights. There are kits for this or you can go to Radio Shack and get the parts.

See them here Roadmaster Inc. - Tow Bars, Braking Systems & RV Accessories
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:53 PM   #12
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Even with the wheel unlocked, sometimes after a sharp turn when towing the wheels don't want to return to center.

I tie a yellow ribbon or something visible at the top of the steering wheel - so I can see it's back to center.
Can't see it back there in your motorhome? I got a rear camera and monitor from Sam's club for about $60. Love it! Handy for flat towing or trailering (I prefer to trailer it.)

It's a good idea to keep an eye on things back there anyway.


Funny (but not at the time) - Years ago my pit crew was towing our Sprint car on a trailer - somebody didn't tie it down. Somewhere south of Chicago it slipped off the trailer! They discovered it gone when they stopped for gas. From the truck they could see the trailer fender, but not the racecar itself.

They called me, I flew out there - somebody was going to get fired, then burned at the stake!

Meanwhile they backtracked - almost 200 miles back they found it - in front of a restaurant - parked neatly, no damage. The manager thought the owner had arranged for it to be there as a promotional gig.

We were lucky, you might not be.
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Old 02-26-2010, 01:59 PM   #13
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Ha, good story!
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:17 PM   #14
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As far as wiring goes you can tap into your taillight wiring under the left side of the dash and install a trailer plug there. Then run wires to a female plug on the grill. When ready to tow unplug under the dash and plug in the wires from the front. All you need then is wiring from the tow vehicle to the plug on the grill. When done towing unplug the wires coming from the front and plug the other set together.
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Old 02-26-2010, 09:33 PM   #15
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As far as lights - I just bought a set of magnetic lights that have running, brake and turn signals and plug into the motorhome - real simple
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Old 02-26-2010, 10:51 PM   #16
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Smile brakes

If you flat tow the jeep thru different states you will need to get some sort of a brake setup on the jeep in case it comes off towbar[ I THINK ITS CALLED A BREAK AWAY SWITCH TO LOCK UP BRAKES TO STOP JEEP} i DONT THINK IT IS REQUIRED FOR ALL STATES BUT FOR MOST BASED ON THE WEIGHT OF JEEP BEING TOWED. i JUST TOWED MINE TO Mississippi and needed it for most states.
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:21 AM   #17
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I always put my transmission in 5th gear when towing. My reasoning is that 5th gear is enough to keep the transmission from turning, but not enough to lock the rear wheels if the transfer case were to slip into gear.

BTW, California does not require a supplemental braking system on a towed motor vehicle, as long as the combination can stop in 50 feet from 20MPH. I don't know about other states, though. There are lots of different laws.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:40 AM   #18
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When I bought my pop-up trailer a few years ago, the dealer informed me that new California laws require all trailers over some minimum weight have their own braking system. I don't recall what weight that was but even the lightest <2,000 lbs. gross weight pop-up tent trailers now have electric brakes due to that law.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:54 AM   #19
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The CVC treats trailers differently from towed motor vehicles. Here is section 26458:

Quote:
26458. (a) The braking system on every motor vehicle used to tow another vehicle shall be so arranged that one control on the towing vehicle shall, when applied, operate all the service brakes on the power unit and combination of vehicles when either or both of the following conditions exist:
(1) The towing vehicle is required to be equipped with power brakes.

(2) The towed vehicle is required to be equipped with brakes and is equipped with power brakes.

(b) Subdivision (a) shall not be construed to prohibit motor vehicles from being equipped with an additional control to be used to operate the brakes on the trailer or trailers.

(c) Subdivision (a) does not apply to any of the following combinations of vehicles, if the combination of vehicles meets the stopping distance requirements of Section 26454:

(1) Vehicles engaged in driveaway-towaway operations.

(2) Disabled vehicles, while being towed.

(3) Towed motor vehicles.

(4) Trailers equipped with inertially controlled brakes which are designed to be applied automatically upon breakaway from the towing vehicle and which are capable of stopping and holding the trailer stationary for not less than 15 minutes.
And here is section 26454, which outlines stopping requirements:

Quote:
26454. (a) The service brakes of every motor vehicle or combination of vehicles shall be adequate to control the movement of and to stop and hold such vehicle or combination of vehicles under all conditions of loading on any grade on which it is operated.
(b) Every motor vehicle or combination of vehicles, at any time and under all conditions of loading, shall, upon application of the service brake, be capable of stopping from an initial speed of 20 miles per hour according to the following requirements:


[This table shows the maximum stopping distance in feet for certains types of vehicles when moving at an initial speed of 20 miles per hour.] *
[Vehicle type] * Maximum Stopping Distance (feet)
(1) Any passenger vehicle 25
(2) Any single motor vehicle with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of less than 10,000 lbs. 30
(3) Any combination of vehicles consisting of a passenger vehicle or any motor vehicle with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of less than 10,000 lbs. in combination with any trailer, semitrailer or trailer coach 40
(4) Any single motor vehicle with a manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 lbs. or more or any bus 40
(5) All other combinations of vehicles 50
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Old 02-27-2010, 11:05 AM   #20
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Listen don't mess around. I tow my TJ behind my 32' motorhome. The Jeep weighs approximately 3500 lbs. I got a RoadMaster Even Brake. Easy to install and works great. The extra brakes and stopping power of the jeep make stopping a breeze. You can rest assured ALL the wheels have braking power. Who wants to go down a 6-8% grade and not have all the brakes working for you. Get the brake unit you'll be glad you did. Read any RV blog on supplemental braking and you'll find no one there saying "I wish I never got this thing".
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Old 02-27-2010, 04:20 PM   #21
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I tow my Wrangler behind my 36' diesel pusher with air brakes and I can barely even tell it's back there, even without a supplemental brake system. YMMV
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Old 06-14-2010, 09:55 AM   #22
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I bought my 2010 Wrangler to tow behind my 35' RV. I had an RV dealer install, tow plate, the hitch and a Brake Buddy braking system. I drove my RV down to pick up my jeep and tow it home. They hooked it up gave me the once over on towing. On the way home I was very nervous, first time towing, so I had my rear camera on the whole way. About 30 minutes into my trip on the interstate the jeep started to sway back and forth. Then as I slowed down and pulled on to the shoulder it tried to pass me on the right. As I cringed and waiting for the sickening thud of jeep meeting RV, it never came. Fortunately, the Brake Buddy applied the jeeps own brakes and even though the two touched there was only a slight rub mark on the RV's bumper.
I found that one of the pins had fallen out of the tow bar. I got the unhitched, drove the RV back to the dealer. You should have seen their faces when I pulled in without the jeep. They said they had never heard of a pin falling out. They gave me replacement pins and off I went. I have towed since then with no problems.
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:42 PM   #23
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As far as lights - I just bought a set of magnetic lights that have running, brake and turn signals and plug into the motorhome - real simple
This is the easiest and best method in my opinion. I put a female plug in the front bumper which is what I plug into from my motor home and ran the wire through the frame to the back bumper and at the end of the wire I have the 4 pin flat plug. I simply put the magnetic lights on the bumper and connect them to the flat plug, just like hooking up a trailer would be. Why mess with diodes and your stock wiring for big bucks when this is a good set up for not much money.

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