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Old 10-04-2012, 10:36 PM   #1
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Towing a Jeep

Have a 2004 TJ 5 speed. Need to tow it behind a pick-up truck about 300 miles several times per year. Can anyone recommend a tow bar or towing system that would work best for this? Appreciate any suggestions.

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Old 10-05-2012, 01:44 AM   #2
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are you looking to flat tow or with one of those ramp trailers that drag two wheels?

My father just had to set his rv up to flat tow his tj. i can get the info from him if that is what you want to do.

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Old 10-05-2012, 01:51 AM   #3
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I tow my 98 auto with a blue ox. Base plate attaches permanently to Jeep, cant even tell it is there. Tow bar hooks up on uneven terrain in 1 min.
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:46 AM   #4
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I have a 2000 with a manual, and I'm looking to flat tow as well. Looking forward to hearing what's out there.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:11 AM   #5
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I used Roadmaster's (mostly) removable frame mounted base plate and cheapo towbar when I used to flat tow. Magnetic tail lights on the rear bumper. Some have had great luck using the d-ring attachments on an aftermarket bumper to hook the tow bar to. I would not recommend attaching anything to a stock front bumper.

The most important thing to remember is outlined in your owners manual: Transfer case in neutral, and transmission in gear or park. Ignition on first click forward will unlock your steering wheel, but not send power through the Jeep. No battery drain, and no towed miles recorded.

And make sure the towbar is level when it is all hooked up on flat ground.
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Old 10-05-2012, 11:17 AM   #6
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Here is my thread on how I set my TJ up to do what you are doing:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/sett...ow-136535.html
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:25 PM   #7
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Thanks to everyone for the input. Looking to flat tow. Appreciate the responses.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:11 PM   #8
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Make sure to shift the transfer case to Neutral and to prevent it from rotating while the Jeep is being towed, shift the transmission into Park if it's an automatic or into gear if it's a manual transmission. Unlock the ignition too so the steering wheel can turn so the front tires can follow your truck.
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:03 PM   #9
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This is what I use. I bolted the included brackets to the stock bumper with a backing plate. Currie sells different brackets if your bumper has front D rings. Like everyone else said xfer in neutral and unlock steering wheel and away ya go.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:12 AM   #10
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I flat tow my JKU cross country behind my motor home and only recommend a tow bar that bolts onto the JK frame. Forget about the adapters that bolt onto the front bumper, are you going to trust your Jeep and others lives on four bolts that were probably made in China? Besides there are many good benefits in using a good tow bar.

Roadmaster and Blue Ox are the two leading suppliers of tow bars and base plates. Both require removing the front bumper for mounting and the Blue Ox even requires drilling two holes into the frame for additional bolts.

Do not forget the light kit, supplemental brake, safety chains and break away. 2011, 2012 and 2013 steering is not locked and does not require leaving a key in the ignition.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:54 PM   #11
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ok so I guess here is another vote for the blue ox. just got the info back from my dad (who over researches every purchase before he buys lol). here is what he says:

I use a BlueOX Towbar on the MH and the associated tow plate on the Jeep

Here's the Towbar I use and love it. The advantage of this one is that there is no critical alignment even if the Jeep is at an angle. Pull up, hitch up, and go!

You must also buy and bolt a baseplate specific to the Blueox brand that fits his specific Jeep. And of course he'll need safety chains and wiring for the lights.

The total package will get pricey, but its quality stuff. Once he finds specifically what he needs, I'd suggest purchasing used on Ebay. I did, and saved a ton.

Blue Ox Aventa LX - 2.5" Receivers
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:55 PM   #12
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I tow my Jeep behind my motorhome using a Ready Brute Elite Tow bar with built in supplemental braking system. This is much less expensive than a tow bar PLUs braking system and it works really well. As mentioned above, you should definitely have some kind of extra braking. Most states now require it. If you have a beefier after narket bumper you may be able to use Blue Ox tow brackets instead of a base plate, but I wouldn't recommend them on the stock bumper without some reinforcing. You can take a look at what I used here: Blue Ox BX88230 General Purpose Adapter Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive and here: Readybrake RV Tow Bars and RV Surge Braking Systems for Car Towing - NSA RV Products Here's a few pics of my set up.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:27 AM   #13
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I agree with Letromag use a Blue Ox towing sytem or a brand similar. bolt the tow coupling bar right to the frame don't not trust the front bumper.
Someone mentioned lighting. When I towed my Dodge Dakota with my 36' motorhome I ran a tow wire to the back of the truck thru the frame and disconnected my rear truck harness lights (it's just a plug) and pluged into my truck trailer hitch 4 wire flat plug, the lights worked fine , with no additional dioes or a costly set up. The RV shop wanted $75. plus parts. My cost $30. two 4 wire flat plugs and 25' of wire.
Now the truck is gone, I bought a Toyota Tacoma and you CAN'T FLAT TOW IT. ( I'm not happy about that) So, I'm looking to buy a Cheap Jeep Wrangler to tow behind my rig
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:55 AM   #14
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I towed my rig about 1000 miles with no issues with a $65 eBay towbar setup. Granted the brackets I have were custom made and go through the bumper into frame. For me there was no point in spending what a blue ox setup runs.
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Old 10-21-2012, 10:43 AM   #15
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We towed our TJ over 75000 miles with an A frame type tow bar. These work great and are cheap, but are a real PIA to try and hook up by yourself. Most recently, I switched to a Blue Ox set up... very easy to hook up with telescoping arms.

I will put in a plug for supplemental brakes. I hope you folks considering towing 4 down will read this... RV Camping -Towed Vehicle Supplemental Brakes
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Off Pavement View Post
We towed our TJ over 75000 miles with an A frame type tow bar. These work great and are cheap, but are a real PIA to try and hook up by yourself. Most recently, I switched to a Blue Ox set up... very easy to hook up with telescoping arms.

I will put in a plug for supplemental brakes. I hope you folks considering towing 4 down will read this... RV Camping -Towed Vehicle Supplemental Brakes

Nice scare tactic on that link there. I will not argue that sup brakes are good to have, but they are very expensive. If someone is towing with a vehicle that already weighs as much as that RV then supps are necessary.

If anyone has towed boats, which can easily weigh as much as a jeep, and expecially salt water boats, then your trailer brakes have a tendency of not working too well, and sometimes not at all. From my experience over the many years, the thing that allows you to get away without the supp brakes is the braking ability of your tow vehicle. And the terrain, and the drivers ability to stay out of dangerous situations.

Slow down, keep out of trouble, makes sure your tow vehicle brakes are tip top, be more careful downhill, and you can do it safely.

If you plan on towing not following the above sugggestions, then get the supp brake system. JMHO
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:03 PM   #17
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I have a 2005 TJ Rubicon with Warn Rock Crawler front bumper, which has the holes for the D rings. I want to tow it behind my GMC Envoy XL on some longer trips. The Envoy is setup to tow with auxillary ATF cooler, etc.

Can I just buy one of the Blue Ox or other rigs, hook it up to the D ring holes, and tow it?

Thanks
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Old 10-30-2012, 07:48 PM   #18
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Flat towing works great for stock jeeps. If your going to tow a built jeep with big tires I like to use a trailer, sure saves on wear and tear and tows great.
Ron
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Old 10-31-2012, 10:17 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Smelt_1 View Post
Nice scare tactic on that link there. I will not argue that sup brakes are good to have, but they are very expensive. If someone is towing with a vehicle that already weighs as much as that RV then supps are necessary.

If anyone has towed boats, which can easily weigh as much as a jeep, and expecially salt water boats, then your trailer brakes have a tendency of not working too well, and sometimes not at all. From my experience over the many years, the thing that allows you to get away without the supp brakes is the braking ability of your tow vehicle. And the terrain, and the drivers ability to stay out of dangerous situations.

Slow down, keep out of trouble, makes sure your tow vehicle brakes are tip top, be more careful downhill, and you can do it safely.

If you plan on towing not following the above sugggestions, then get the supp brake system. JMHO
Disagree....Vehicles have brakes that are designed to stop the particular Gross vehicle weight rating of the vehicle they are on in a specified distance, and not an additional 3500 pounds pushing on the back. You never know when someone will cut you off or a kid will run out in front of you no matter how much you try and stay out of dangerous situations. Most states, including CA have laws requiring brake systems on towed vehicles. (in CA it's 1500 pounds or more).
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:07 AM   #20
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Ok 99 TJ 4.0 5 sp

I towed this maybe 4 miles to work on it. I'm pretty sure the t-case was in neutral but i dont think i had it in gear. Just neutral. What damage have i done?
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:20 AM   #21
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Ok 99 TJ 4.0 5 sp

I towed this maybe 4 miles to work on it. I'm pretty sure the t-case was in neutral but i dont think i had it in gear. Just neutral. What damage have i done?
Only 4 miles may not have hurt anything...If the tranny still shifts fine, you are probably okay.

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