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Old 09-24-2007, 12:21 PM   #1
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Toys by Troy Steering upgrade?

I have been looking at a complete steering upgrade and almost bought the ORO U-Turn but came across the Toys by Troy Alumiflex steering which costs $$$ but looks bulletproof. It doesnt really tell me too much about the system on the site though. I know i have to weld a bracket onto the axle but is everything included? It looks like i have to buy the steering stabilizer bracket seperately, has anyone bought this or have any suggestions? I am almost willing to spend the money if i know it will be the last time i will mess with the steering system besides minor adjustments. I also saw the T&T knuckle over and looking for opinions on that. Thanks!

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Old 09-24-2007, 01:01 PM   #2
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Simple Scout used to run the ORO U-Turn and loved it, I'm sure he'll pop on and explain more.

1BLKJP(Jack), I think used to run the TbT steering with his old ALumiflex long arm kit, so he might be able to help with a better description.

Personally, I would go with something like the Currie HD system, but if you want a "high-steer" look at Tera-Flex or the ORO U-Turn.

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Old 09-24-2007, 03:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AzTJ View Post
but if you want a "high-steer"
NEWB question coming:

Can someone simply explain or show a picture difference between "regular" and "high steer" replacement steering ? I know I want to replace componants with beefier than stock, but what else ???
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Old 09-24-2007, 03:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MouthfulOfGrass View Post
NEWB question coming:

Can someone simply explain or show a picture difference between "regular" and "high steer" replacement steering ? I know I want to replace componants with beefier than stock, but what else ???
a "high steer" takes the drag link and attaches it to the top of the steering knuckle instead of the bottom or repositions the drag link mount and just movies it up higher for better drag link angles. You will see it more often on D60's and full-width D44's because the steering arm on the knuckle is separate.

More often enough, you'll need a new track back and maybe a relocation bracket because of the altered drag link.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:50 PM   #5
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Here is a picture of a "near stock" setup on my jeep and then a picture of a TBT Hi-Steer setup so you can compare the difference. As AZ stated I did run the alumiflex long arm setup for a few years and I have been fairly critical of it because I feel it has significant short comings. However I have always been a fan of Troy's steering setup and wished I had went with it a long time ago. The reason I didn't was because he was doing shop installs only on it and I didn't want that. There are only a few people I trust working on my rig and one of them is me.

[IMG][/IMG]



Sorry about the crappy pic of my steering, but I guess it's the best one I have. I am running the Rock Krawler Gen I steering setup made from 1.5" solid stock for the tie rod and 1.25" solid stock for the drag link. I am also running it on top of the knuckle for a little added clearance.

As far as Troy's setup goes you probably won't even have a need for running a steering stabilizer if you go the hi-steer route. The bracket you are referring to is what moves your trac-bar bracket from the front of the axle to the top of the axle. This puts the Trac-Bar/Drag Link geometry in perfect alignment and also moves it up out of the way.
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