Trac bar - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > TJ General Discussion Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 04-07-2012, 06:50 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
CJS98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 560
Images: 1
Trac bar

I my fulltraction trac that came with my 4 inch lift is shot the ball joint on frame side is done for and the threads are seized so I cannot just replace the end. I've tried many ways and it's just not gonna Happen (broke two wrenches) and my axle side metric oem bolt is stripped so I'm going to have to have all of it replaced and the axle bolt head cut off to remove. Anywho I'm looking for replacement trac bars I've looked at several and I don't think I want to stick with my ball joint type trac bar I have now so I've been looking a Jks, rubicon express , Clayton. Any good/ ba news for me? I do have a question I've noticed from pictures online that some mount the heim style trac bar end sideways like a ball joint. It looks weird and idk much about it. would it be fine to replace with Jks and bolt it up to stick location? I don't know if I want to drop 279 for Clayton trac bar and drop bracket, but it seems beneficial for me now and in the future. And info on specific brands and the different ways of mounting them both good and bad. I just do not want to have to deal with it much in the future. And info would be awesome before I order one up.

Thanks
CJS98TJ

__________________
CJS98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 07:05 PM   #2
Jeeper
 
jgorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,899
This is how I got my rod end unstuck. I replace the rod end once, and its bad less than 10K miles later. The PO installed the trackbar and its drilled so I cant go back to a tie rod. I'll probably get a JKS someday.

__________________
my 06 LJ rubicon
2.5" SL, 1" BL, DIY highline, 35s with double beadlocks.
jgorm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
I'll probably get a JKS someday.
get the Currie TJJ model instead....much better choice.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
jgorm's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,899
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
get the Currie TJJ model instead....much better choice.
why is it better? It looks like they both use the same 2.5" JJ on the frame side.
__________________
my 06 LJ rubicon
2.5" SL, 1" BL, DIY highline, 35s with double beadlocks.
jgorm is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 09:58 PM   #5
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
B.B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 167
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
why is it better? It looks like they both use the same 2.5" JJ on the frame side.
Both use the rigid wall 1.25" DOM rigid wall (.250") tubing with 50ksi yield, 70ksi ultimate, double degassed and stress relieved. Both powder coat the bar, however the JKS threaded end is zinc plated, not sure about Currie. Both clear the diff cover on a D44 when installed for the appropriate lift. Both are available with poly or rubber, both have jj's. Both can be found within pennies of each other. I just returned from Moab this morning and have met with both manufactures at the Spanish Arena about the features, functions and benefits of their uniqueness and I come up with a wash.....other than politics!!

The overly ambiguous, generic statement that Currie is better with no substance is typical all so often. Define better ?? I would really like to know myself as I am up for a new front track bar......
__________________


'06 TJ Rubi Bright Silver Auto .....A KEEPER !!!
B.B. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 10:38 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
CJS98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 560
Images: 1
Now what about how it actually mounts is this how it's supposed to mount?

I think the two skinnier ones are rubicon express and Rk not sure though I just felt it isn't mounted properly or does it not matter because it is a jointed end?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image-963607106.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	80.4 KB
ID:	112057   Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2195734295.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	94.3 KB
ID:	112058  

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-760125302.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	76.7 KB
ID:	112059  
__________________
CJS98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-07-2012, 10:47 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
05wrangler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: indy
Posts: 1,122
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B. View Post
Both use the rigid wall 1.25" DOM rigid wall (.250") tubing with 50ksi yield, 70ksi ultimate, double degassed and stress relieved. Both powder coat the bar, however the JKS threaded end is zinc plated, not sure about Currie. Both clear the diff cover on a D44 when installed for the appropriate lift. Both are available with poly or rubber, both have jj's. Both can be found within pennies of each other. I just returned from Moab this morning and have met with both manufactures at the Spanish Arena about the features, functions and benefits of their uniqueness and I come up with a wash.....other than politics!!

The overly ambiguous, generic statement that Currie is better with no substance is typical all so often. Define better ?? I would really like to know myself as I am up for a new front track bar......
__________________
"do it once and do it right"
05wrangler is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 09:54 AM   #8
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
why is it better? It looks like they both use the same 2.5" JJ on the frame side.
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B. View Post
Both use the rigid wall 1.25" DOM rigid wall (.250") tubing
no, they don't. JKS is DOM. Currie is 4130.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B. View Post
Both clear the diff cover on a D44 when installed for the appropriate lift.
No, lift height doesn't matter. Bumpstop extension does. Both need 2" front bumpstop extension, to clear a straight tie-rod (like stock or Currie steering), or the diff cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B. View Post
The overly ambiguous, generic statement that Currie is better with no substance is typical all so often. Define better ?? I would really like to know myself as I am up for a new front track bar......
Look closer.

Currie uses better material (4130 vs DOM), offset design for better clearance with steering & diff cover and strength, 5/8" bolt instead of a 9/16" bolt, and an available with 10mm or 1/2 bolt.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:10 AM   #9
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
Unlimited. Do you mean that currie uses solid tube while jks uses tubing. Because DOM doesn't tell anything about the type or quality of metal you can DOM almost anything. Just wondering. I don't know what steel jks uses.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:17 AM   #10
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Unlimited. Do you mean that currie uses solid tube while jks uses tubing. Because DOM doesn't tell anything about the type or quality of metal you can DOM almost anything. Just wondering. I don't know what steel jks uses.
I agree, and while I don't know for sure, most of the time when you hear DOM in the vehicle world, it's normally referring to 1020 (roll cages, control arms, etc) unless otherwise specified. 4130 is chromoly.
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:33 AM   #11
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04
I agree, and while I don't know for sure, most of the time when you hear DOM in the vehicle world, it's normally referring to 1020 (roll cages, control arms, etc) unless otherwise specified. 4130 is chromoly.
Absolutely. I just had no idea if it was just typical DOM stock as you mentioned or something a little higher quality. Maybe something for jks to answer.

Not to mention it could be lesser quality as well. I doubt it. But we know for a fact that currie sources some of the best quality material they can.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:09 PM   #12
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
B.B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 167
[QUOTE=UnlimitedLJ04;2233118]no, they don't. JKS is DOM. Currie is 4130.

Now I am confused........

Here is the description straight from the Currie website.

Description: This component replaces the stock trac bar on 97-2006 Jeep TJ's and Unlimited's, as well XJ and MJ. The Johnny Joint® Trac Arm is designed to center the front axle assembly under the vehicle after installation of a lift kit and/or the springs settle. It is adjustable in length made from 1 1/4" heavy wall D.O.M. tubing. It uses a 2 1/2" Johnny Joint® at the frame end, and features a heavy duty bushing at the housing end. Comes complete with zerk fitted grade 8 hardware and instructions for lifted TJs.


Here is the link to the Currie website:
Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts



.
__________________


'06 TJ Rubi Bright Silver Auto .....A KEEPER !!!
B.B. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:20 PM   #13
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
DOM isn't a type of tubing, it's a process. Stands for drawn over mandrel which is just a pretty way of forming it with a very well hidden seam. It's a bit stronger typically, but depends on the steel used. According to unlimited Currie uses 4130 and I'm sure that's correct because he tends to know his facts.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 10:43 PM   #14
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
B.B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 167
goldensahara, did you click the link in my previous post to the currie website? Or did you read the description direct from the currie website? I posted it so any prudent person could read it direct and make their own opinion.

I guess he knows more than the currie web marketing team .......

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1168

I'm out..........
__________________


'06 TJ Rubi Bright Silver Auto .....A KEEPER !!!
B.B. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-08-2012, 11:29 PM   #15
Jeeper
 
CJS98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 560
Images: 1
So back to it. I've been reading a lot and I've read that I could weld a hex nut on the head of the bolt and use that instead if dealing with my stripped torx? Any info on that? I called 4wp and they said I'd be able to grind off the head of the torx bolt and slide it out the back... I got user the jeep and looked and there is no way for it to slide out the back.... I think I'm going to just replace it with the Jks but I need to get it off the axle side because the darn thing will not Break free and is now stripped. I also read that I could try tightening it first to loosen it first then unbolt it but it's too late for that. So should I weld on a nut and do that? I think drilling out the whole thing will be too much work?
__________________
CJS98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 06:18 AM   #16
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B.
goldensahara, did you click the link in my previous post to the currie website? Or did you read the description direct from the currie website? I posted it so any prudent person could read it direct and make their own opinion.

I guess he knows more than the currie web marketing team .......

http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1168

I'm out..........
Nope sorry I read I description in the link. And it very well can be another type of DOM. I just know he happens to talk to several people related to the company. And everyone has opinions I'm not agreeing or disagreeing win you.

I see what you mean though about them saving its heavy wall DOM. That's not very descriptive. And if it's truly 4130 then they ought to include that. Your right.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 07:10 AM   #17
Jeeper

WF Supporting Member
 
B.B.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 167
Sorry for the high jack cjs98tj....

Once you try to weld onto the bolt, you will harden the bolt and make it very difficult to drill later if the welded nut doesn't work.

Before you weld to it.....you might try a 3/16" left hand drill bit after soaking it a day with PBS Blaster. Drill on low speed, high torque. If the drill itself didn't break it loose, get a good quality easy-out from Snap-On, or someone who specializes in high quality tooling. Drill about 1/4" to 3/8" deep. you may try heating the threaded housing. Insert the easy-out and give it a go. If this doesn't get it, then try welding it. Do not use a grade 8 nut in the weld process, too much Carbon. 3 or 5 is sufficient and will weld much easier. The weld itself will be the weak link, not the nut....


Make sure you let everything cool to ambient prior to turning the nut as the bolt will expand due to the interpass temp of the weld, compounding the problem...
__________________


'06 TJ Rubi Bright Silver Auto .....A KEEPER !!!
B.B. is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 07:28 AM   #18
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
I agree with BB here. welding would be the last option I would pick. I didn't know you still didn't get it out yet, oh goodness. So you have the flag nut off the back or not?

Do you happen to have an impact or one you can borrow. Put the torx in the slid, hammer it in there. then impact it. If its truly stripped and theres no way that will work, then I would drill it. A good electric drill, a few good bits, and some multi purpose oil to keep the drill bit cool while you drill. go right down the center with a small bit first.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
UnlimitedLJ04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,230
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.B. View Post
goldensahara, did you click the link in my previous post to the currie website? Or did you read the description direct from the currie website? I posted it so any prudent person could read it direct and make their own opinion.

I guess he knows more than the currie web marketing team .......

Currie Enterprises CJ Axle Parts

I'm out..........
What you have linked is a rebranded JKS track bar, it's not Currie's track bar.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Your right.
No, he's still wrong.

I said the Currie TJS/TJJ model was a better choice, and uses 4130.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
get the Currie TJJ model instead....much better choice.
Quote:
The all new and improved Johnny Joint® trac bar for the TJ/XJ/LJ/MJ features an offset Johnny Joint® rod end that puts the bar further forward providing more clearance between the diff and the trac bar. Other features include 1 1/4" x .250 wall 4130 chrome moly construction, a welded in gusset from the bar to the Johnny Joint®, heavy duty adjustor end with urethane bushing and steel insert sleeve, and semi-gloss black powder coat finish. Some drilling is required for installation. The supplied frame bolt is a 5/8", and the supplied housing bolt is 1/2". Both of these holes must be drilled to size to accommodate the heavier duty hardware. A heavy duty nut plate kit is supplied for the housing end.
Buy it here: Currie Johnny Joints Suspension TJ LJ

If you visited both companies in Moab, why can't you get the facts straight?
UnlimitedLJ04 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 12:27 PM   #20
Jeeper
 
CJS98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 560
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
I agree with BB here. welding would be the last option I would pick. I didn't know you still didn't get it out yet, oh goodness. So you have the flag nut off the back or not?

Do you happen to have an impact or one you can borrow. Put the torx in the slid, hammer it in there. then impact it. If its truly stripped and theres no way that will work, then I would drill it. A good electric drill, a few good bits, and some multi purpose oil to keep the drill bit cool while you drill. go right down the center with a small bit first.
Ok thanks for the Info. The front is stripped. I can try stepping up a size but I highly doubt it that'll do anything.. Nope flag nut is in there good unless there is something special or a trick for me to break that free :P I will try heating it up then giving it another go.



Thanks for the info.
__________________
CJS98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 09:08 PM   #21
Rock-Rubber

WF Supporting Member
 
GoldenSahara00's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: SCPA
Posts: 16,623
Sorry unlimited I'm not really that vested in this discussion of currie vs jks and assumed that was a legitimate link.


Anywho, op.

I'm trying to remember if there it a way to get a cut wheel up there. You can always get a short blade on a saws all that should fit. Cut the back off. Then a few hits on the track bar with a bfh. Or I would hope. Since your not concerned with te bar and just want to keep the mount in Tact this could work.
__________________
Ryan - A good eye, a light foot, and a smart rig.
Bolt-ons are boring
AMERICAN JEEPER
My Build - http://www.wranglerforum.com/f118/pr...a00-74622.html
Rausch Creek Trip: 2014 Trip Coming Soon
GoldenSahara00 is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 04-09-2012, 11:18 PM   #22
Jeeper
 
CJS98TJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 560
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00
Sorry unlimited I'm not really that vested in this discussion of currie vs jks and assumed that was a legitimate link.

Anywho, op.

I'm trying to remember if there it a way to get a cut wheel up there. You can always get a short blade on a saws all that should fit. Cut the back off. Then a few hits on the track bar with a bfh. Or I would hope. Since your not concerned with te bar and just want to keep the mount in Tact this could work.
My only concern with cutting the back it that there is like 1/4 of bolt until it hits the axle tube so i would have to cut the very end of the bolt off and grind off the head punch it through as far as I could and then cut again. It's just awkward. My friends dad (has a shop) said get all the parts and bring it in and we'll figure somthin out hahah so I may just see what he has to say

__________________
CJS98TJ is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FL: Stock Fenders, Alternator, Carr Light Bar w/KCs denisbaldwin Classifieds Archive 5 09-09-2012 10:16 AM
LED light bar Lbailey21 TJ General Discussion Forum 10 04-19-2012 05:51 PM
Help! Sway bar problem/question Snowbum Colorado Jeep Forum 27 04-10-2012 08:37 PM
Track Bar question Lilred94 YJ Tech Forum 41 04-10-2012 07:07 PM
OR: roll bar stretch05 Classifieds Archive 1 04-05-2012 04:42 PM



» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:20 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC